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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-03-2008, 07:27 AM
Quant Quant is offline
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Redline Break-in Additive

I'm looking to take delivery of my 335i Cab in a few weeks (hopefully). Of course, I can't wait and am at this site daily to read-up on the car, and to get answers to questions.

Has anyone looked at adding this to their new BMW?

Red Line’s new Engine Oil Break-In Additive (Part #81403, MSRP $12.95)
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1

According to Redline, this additive contains "zinc & phosphorus (ZDDP) necessary to protect against camshaft and valvetrain damage on break-in."

Apparently, the BMWs use only standard oil in the new engine, unlike some other cars that have a special break-in oil. With only a standard oil, this additive might help.

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  #2  
Old 06-03-2008, 08:57 AM
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MrBones MrBones is offline
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It says provides conventional (not synthetic) motor oil with added benefits. It later states that you can also add it to synthetics, but it sounds to me like it may not add anything tangible in your (our) situation because of the synthetic oil it comes with. No?
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  #3  
Old 06-03-2008, 09:54 AM
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TGray5 TGray5 is offline
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Are you really willing to risk the damage this additive might due and possible voiding of your warranty for the miniscule, if any, benefit that this product could provide?
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Old 06-03-2008, 10:02 AM
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Vornado Vornado is offline
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Use standard synthetic, change it however often you want. It will do it's job by lubricating engine parts. There is no reason to use fancy brand name "performance" oils, unless you enjoy wasting money.
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  #5  
Old 06-04-2008, 07:33 AM
Quant Quant is offline
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A lot of car manufacturers use a special Break-in oil. I think Honda, Audi, VW are some that do. Some oil & car companies recommend against using synthetic oils during break-in. I don't know if the M3 uses any special oil, but the oil is changed after break-in at around 1200 miles. At $12 wasting money is not an issue.

Synthetics do their job by lubricating engine parts, correct. However, Break-in oil is not just about lubrication, but about getting the piston rings and valves seated properly.

Many on this website use Red-line's motor oil instead of BMW oil at their changes - that does not invalidate the warranty - I do not think warranty should be an issue with this break-in additive.

I plan on changing the oil around 1200-1500 miles, regardless of whether or not I use this additive.

Last edited by Quant; 06-04-2008 at 09:00 AM.
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  #6  
Old 06-04-2008, 10:13 AM
x986 x986 is offline
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The engineering and chemistry that Redline uses is first rate. If I had known of its existence, I probably would have added it. That said, Redline is aimed at the race market, and break in is an hour on the dyno.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quant View Post
A lot of car manufacturers use a special Break-in oil. I think Honda, Audi, VW are some that do. Some oil & car companies recommend against using synthetic oils during break-in. I don't know if the M3 uses any special oil, but the oil is changed after break-in at around 1200 miles. At $12 wasting money is not an issue.

Synthetics do their job by lubricating engine parts, correct. However, Break-in oil is not just about lubrication, but about getting the piston rings and valves seated properly.

Many on this website use Red-line's motor oil instead of BMW oil at their changes - that does not invalidate the warranty - I do not think warranty should be an issue with this break-in additive.

I plan on changing the oil around 1200-1500 miles, regardless of whether or not I use this additive.
Gee I think BMW has figured out how to get their rings and valves to seat properly. As another posted said, are you even sure the additive is made to work properly with synthetic oil? Also, I believe I've read in the past in the manual that BMW says to not use any oil additives. You may not think it will cause any problems, but you don't really know. What problem exactly are you trying to solve? Enjoy your car and don't obsess about things like this.
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:39 AM
Quant Quant is offline
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The problem I'm trying to solve is very similar to the problem that others solve by changing their oil more often than recommended by BMW.

The current bmw maintenance schedule highlights BMW's attitude. Their cars will have excellent performance for the initial 50k miles, and have good performance for the next maybe 50K, maybe a little longer. After about 100k miles, they do not care about the car. I think that manufacturers that care about either the extreme performance (like the BMW M series with a break-in oil change) or long life of cars (Honda with a special break-in oil) use better break-in and maintenance procedures.

My assumption is that with "better" seating & break-in of the rings/valves, and more frequent oil changes to reduce engine wear, I might be able to get excellent performance for >70 miles, and a substantially longer good serviceable life from the car.

Has anybody used this add-in? Does anyone know whether its good or bad for this engine?

Last edited by Quant; 06-05-2008 at 10:16 AM.
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  #9  
Old 06-05-2008, 10:04 AM
335i Driver 335i Driver is offline
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Antiwear agents like zinc & phosphorus only come into play if the engine oil fails. It is sorta like umbrella insurance. In addition, any decent oil made today will have zinc & phosphorus added and from the tests I've seen on the BMW oil it has significant levels. I just don't see any benefit. It won't hurt anything, and Redline makes good products, but this seems about as beneficial as Tampons would be to a man.
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  #10  
Old 06-05-2008, 10:59 AM
vocalthought vocalthought is offline
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If this is really needed, BMW would've added it into the engine oil when it comes out from the factory.
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  #11  
Old 06-05-2008, 11:14 AM
Quant Quant is offline
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Originally Posted by vocalthought View Post
If this is really needed, BMW would've added it into the engine oil when it comes out from the factory.
They have not added it. Read my comments above about BMW's mentality on maintenance. They do not want to do an additional "free" oil change on their "low" performance cars.

Is it really needed? Do they really care about what happens to the car after 50k or 100k miles? Interesting questions.

Last edited by Quant; 06-05-2008 at 11:19 AM.
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  #12  
Old 06-05-2008, 12:13 PM
x986 x986 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335i Driver View Post
Antiwear agents like zinc & phosphorus only come into play if the engine oil fails. It is sorta like umbrella insurance. In addition, any decent oil made today will have zinc & phosphorus added and from the tests I've seen on the BMW oil it has significant levels. I just don't see any benefit. It won't hurt anything, and Redline makes good products, but this seems about as beneficial as Tampons would be to a man.
Sorry old boy, but I disagree. Ph & Zn have been almost totally removed from modern synthetic oils for enviornmental reasons. They are not really needed for modern engines, but very necessary for older stuff. (There have been a lot of ugly failures attributed to the removal of Ph & Zn.) Back on topic, if I had known that Redline had a specific break in oil, I would have used it. In the 40/50K miles I will drive the car I don't think it will make any real difference, but it would be good for my karma.
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Old 06-05-2008, 01:38 PM
335i Driver 335i Driver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x986 View Post
Sorry old boy, but I disagree. Ph & Zn have been almost totally removed from modern synthetic oils for enviornmental reasons. They are not really needed for modern engines, but very necessary for older stuff. (There have been a lot of ugly failures attributed to the removal of Ph & Zn.) Back on topic, if I had known that Redline had a specific break in oil, I would have used it. In the 40/50K miles I will drive the car I don't think it will make any real difference, but it would be good for my karma.
Sorry old boy, but you are wrong. Never let facts get in the way of hearsay and speculation. Here is a random sampling of oil aalysis I could find quckly find on BITOG. These are ones that I thought might be used in a BMW. Every single one of them shows significantly high levels of both zinc and phosphorus and some of these are 2008 factory fill. Please show me one oil that DOESN'T have high levels of zinc & phosphorus. I'm willing to bet you won't find a single one.

Sample Date..............2/9/08....3/19/08....5/12/08
Miles on oil:..............6,166.......5,781.......6,268
Oil.........................Delo LE.....Rotella T...Red Line
Grade.....................15W40.....15W-40.....10W-40
Miles on Car:.............288,907...294,688....300,956
Make up oil:..............0 qt........1.5qt........0 qt

Aluminum:................5...........5............ .0
Chromium:...............1............1............ .0
Iron:......................14...........28........ ...7
Copper:...................7...........12.......... ..5
Lead:......................4...........6.......... ..10
Tin:........................0...........0......... ...1
Molybdenum:.............76..........20...........5 84
Nickel:.....................0...........1......... ...0
Manganese:...............0...........1............ 0
Silver:.....................0...........0......... ...0
Titanium:.................0...........0........... .0
Potassium:................2...........2........... .3
Boron:.....................305........77.......... .29
Silicon:....................7...........12........ ...16
Sodium:...................6...........25.......... .17
Calcium:..................1,589......2167........2 476
Magnesium:..............365.........106.........19
Phosphorus:..............1013.......1019........10 10
Zinc:......................1269........1234....... .1121
Barium:...................1............0.......... ..0

This is a new Bentley GTC UOA at 1, 2 and 3,000 miles taken from the OEM oil. The first factory scheduled oil change is at 10,000 miles. My plan is to run a UOA every 1,000 miles for as long as I can stand not changing the oil or to 6,000 miles, whichever occurs first. No oil was added.

The engine is a 6.0 liter twin turbo W-12 with 550 BHP, compression ratio 9:1, top speed - 198 MPH and 0 - 60 dash = 4.8 seconds. The curb wt. is 5,500 lbs., EPA 11, 24 MPG,

......................1,000 mi.....2,000.....3,000.....4,000.....5,000.....6,0 00
.................................................. .................................................. ..
Iron__________22________23____33
Chromium _____<1_______<1____<1
Nickel _________1________2_____2
Aluminum _____5 ________7_____6
lead __________ 1________1_____3
Copper ________32_______34____41
Tin ____________5_______3______3
Silver ________<0.1______0.1____0.1
Titanium _______<1______<1____<1
Silicon ________ 37_______34____39
Boron _________228______195____219
Sodium _______ 15_______12_____13
Potassium _____<10______<10____<10
Molybdenum ____91______81______92
Phosphorus ___1027______936____1035
Zinc ________ 1151______1027___1182
Calcium _____ 3228______2915___3301
Barium _______<10_______<10____<10
Magnesium ____22________21_____29
Antimony _____<30______<30____<30
Vanadium _____<1_______<1_____<1
Fuel %Vol _____1.5______<1.0____<1.0
Wtr %vol ______<0.1_____<0.1____<0.1
Vis CS 100C __ 12.3______12.1____12.1
SAE Grade ____30________30_____30
Gly test ______Neg_______Neg____Neg
TBN ________not done____NA_____NA
Obs Oxid______23_______27______29
Abs Nitr_______10______13_______14
Fuel soot______NA______NA______0.0

Test lab was: youroil.net



Vehicle:
06 Scion tC, 2.4L, 4-cyl (2AZFE)

Oil:
Motul 8100 E-Tech Lite 0W/30

Oil additives:
None

Make up oil added:
None

Engine oil capacity:
4 quarts

Oil filter:
Mobil 1 EP 103

Air filter:
K&N direct replacement (cleaned at 20k)

Miles on oil/filter:
10,002

Miles on vehicle:
30,002

UOA by Blackstone Laboratories:

Elements in PPM:

Aluminum: 3
Chromium: 1
Iron: 18
Copper: 4
Lead: 3
Tin: 0
Molybdenum: 17
Nickel: 2
Manganese: 1
Silver: 0
Titanium: 0
Potassium: 1
Boron: 69
Silicon: 31
Sodium: 9
Calcium: 3000
Magnesium: 207
Phosphorus: 936
Zinc: 1151
Barium: 0

Properties:

SUS Viscosity @ 210 F: 58.3
cST Viscosity @ 100 C: 9.73
Flashpoint in F: 395
Fuel %: <0.5
Antifreeze %: 0.0
Water %: 0.0
Insolubles %: 0.3
TBN: 2.3
TAN: N/A
ISO Code: N/A


vehicle-----------------04 Toyota Echo, 1NZ-FE, 1.5L, 4 cyl
OIL---------------------3 to 1 ratio of Amsoil (ACD) 10W-30/SAE 30 to (HDD) 5W-30
oil additive------------none
Make up oil-----------none
Engine oil capacity---4 quarts
oil filter----------------Amsoil EAO09 or EAO10
air filter----------------Wix (with apprx 25,700 miles on it)
miles on oil/filter------10,697 (apprx 3 months--2/3/08 thru 5/7/08)
miles on vehicle--------64,826

UOA by Oil Analyzers:
Overall severity of report--------0 (normal)
Lab comments: Data indicates no abnormal findings. Resample at normal interval…...
WEAR METALS in PPM:
iron--------------------10
chromium-------------0
nickel------------------1
aluminum-------------3
copper-----------------4
lead--------------------0
tin----------------------0
cadmium--------------0
silver-------------------0
titanium---------------0
vanadium-------------0
CONTAMINANT METALS:
silicon-----------------21
sodium----------------4
potassium-------------1
MULTI-SOURCE METALS:
molybdenum---------11
Antimony-------------0
Manganese-----------0
Lithium---------------0
boron------------------7
ADDITIVE METALS:
magnesium-----------10
calcium----------------3908
barium-----------------0
phosphorus------------1131
zinc---------------------1328
Lube change-----------no
Lube filter change----no
fuel---------------------1%
Soot<<<<<<<<<<< .1%
Water<<<<<<<<<< .1%
visc40------------------n/a
visc100----------------11.7
TAN--------------------n/a
TBN--------------------3.55
oxidation--------------47
nitration---------------33

Penzoil Platinum
ALUM 3
CHROM 0
IRON 12
COPPER 8
LEAD 2
TIN 0
MOLY 61
NICKEL 1
MANGANESE 0
SILVER 0
TITANIUM 0
POTASSIUM 0
BORON 48
SILICON 15
SODIUM 2
CALCIUM 3,038
MAGNESUM 14
PHOSPHRUS 699
Zinc 842
barium 0

VISCOSITY 56.3
CST-9.16
Flashpoint 420
Fuel 0.5
antifreeze 0
water 0
insolubles .2
TBN 5.O

Schaeffers 5-30

vis. 100c 9.8 10.2
%oxd. 23.3 22.2
%nox 21.4 20.0
TBN 7.6 7.3
iron 19 8
chromium 1 0
lead 4 0
copper 8 0
tin 1 0
aluminum 9 4
nickel 1 0
silver 0 0
mangenese 2 3
silicon 14 10
boron 37 34
sodium 138 106
magnesium 343 337
calcium 1489 1419
barium 0 0
phosphorous 991 963
zinc 1296 1219
molybdenum 79 0 (lab screw up)
titanium 0 0
vanadium 0 0
cadmium 0 0

Vehicle miles 19157
Oil drain 6165
Mobil 1 10W-30

Oil Analists, Inc
Iron 41
Chromium 3
Nickel 1
Aluminum 9
Lead 9
Copper 97
Tin 3
Silver LT.1
Titanium LT 1
Silicon 59 (non abrasive)
Boron 40
Sodium 11
Potasium 64
Moly 7
Phos 781
Zinc 974
Calcium 863
Barium LT 10
Magnesium 1890
antimony LT 30
vanadium LT 1

Fuel 1%
Soot LT .01%
H2O LT .1
Vis 100C cSt 10.8
Sae Grade30
TBN 6.06

Amsoil 5-20
Silicon 22
Potassium 0
Sodium 9.1
Fuel (%) <2.0
Glycol ----
Water (%) <0.1
Soot (%) ----
Sulfation 161
Nitration 79



Boron 14
Barium 0
Calcium 2811
Magnesium 134
Molybdenum 5.5
Sodium 9.1
Phosphorus 680
Sulfur 2289
Zinc 814
Visc@40°C ----
Visc@100°C 9.2
Oxidation 79
TAN 3.24
TBN


Iron 8.8
Nickel 0
Chromium 0.6
Titanium 0.1
Copper 1.1
Aluminum 4.5
Tin 0
Lead 0
Silver 0
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2008, 01:04 AM
x986 x986 is offline
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Boys and girls, try not to let your eyes glaze over, but basically we have a difference of opinion of the percentage of elements that are good/necessary vs. a ppm number.

Now, who has the bigger attachment?



Modern Oils and the Air-Cooled Engine


By Charles L. Navarro
Provided courtesy of LN Engineering

What oil should I use in my 356?

[Ed: The question of "What oil should I use in my 356?" is often asked. Below is what Charles Navarro suggests, depending on whether you want to use traditional oil or a synthetic formulation.]

When in doubt, look at the label. Do not use an API SM or API CJ-4 motor oil in your Porsche 356. Also, it is best to use an oil that does not need supplemental additives!

Inexpensive Dino Oil: Kendall GT 20w50 or Castrol GTX 20w50 (or it's High Mileage formulation). I'm not a big fan of GTX, but if changed often, it's okay.

Good Dino Oil: Valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle oil 10w40 or 20w50. This oil is easy to find and comes with an API SF/SG/SJ rating.

Best Non-Synthetic Dino Oil: Swepco 15w40 "306" motor oil. Many shops who had been using Mobil 1 have switched to this and most if not all their problems (including bearing failures) went away.

Best Semi-Synthetic:Brad Penn Racing (it's 100% Pennsylvania crude and a modern version of the green Kendall GT from decades past) and has 10% group III synthetic blended in for cold start and extreme heat protection. Regardless of it's name, this is a street oil.

Synthetic: Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, Royal Purple Max Cycle 20w50, or Amsoil Harley V-Twin 20w50. The Mobil 1 motorcycle and Royal Purple Max Cycle oils are also available in 10w40 viscosities. If I was going to be racing, I would use one of these oils or for a paraffinic based oil, the Brad Penn or Swepco oils.

Oil Weight: I do not think any 356 should run anything lighter than a 15w40 IMHO, unless it is being driven in the winter and cold started below 10-20F.

Break-In Oil: Brad Penn Racing Break-in oil. It's cheap insurance.

Oil Additives: EOS is now available again from your local GM dealership. If added to Mobil 1 15w50 (not the extended performance version), for example, one bottle of EOS will last approximately three oil changes. Red STP 4-Cylinder Treatment will also work - one bottle to each oil change. That said, it's best to use an oil that is properly formulated from the start and doesn't require supplementation.
The purpose of proper lubrication is to provide a physical barrier (oil film) that separates moving parts reducing wear and friction. Oil also supplies cooling to critical engine components, such as bearings. Detergent oils contain dispersants, friction modifiers, anti-foam, anti-corrosion, and anti-wear additives. These detergents carry away contaminants such as wear particulates and neutralize acids that are formed by combustion byproducts and the natural breakdown of oil. Not all motor oils are created equally when it comes to the levels of additives and detergents used. The focus of this study is on the levels of zinc and phosphorus found in motor oils, more exactly, the zinc (Zn) and phosphorus (P) that makes up the anti-wear additive ZDDP, zinc dialkyl dithiosphosphate.

What general characteristics make motor oils specifically well suited to an aircooled engine? Aside from recommendations issued by Porsche, what makes a good oil? These oils must be thermally stable, having a very high flashpoint, and must "maintain proper lubrication and protect vital engine components under the extreme pressure and the high temperature conditions" found in aircooled Porsches. Porsche recommends and uses Mobil 1 0w40 as a factory fill in newer watercooled models and their 15w50 has been a popular choice used by many for their aircooled models year round in a wide range of climates.

Porsche's recommendation in hand, our initial analysis from 2005 and 2006 found that then recent SH/SJ/SL formulations of Mobil lubricants tested, including Mobil 1, have had similar 0.12-0.14% Zn and P content, which we thought was a good thing, but looking closer, Mobil 1 0w40 had somewhat less Zn and P, at 0.10%. Current SM formulations are at the 0.10% level or less. This confirms the industry wide trend of the reduction of Zn and P from motor oils, with the eventual reduction to 0.06-0.08% or even worse, the elimination of these additives, which are essential to an aircooled Porsche engine's longevity.

Many Porsche repair shops have acknowledged that these newest SM and CJ-4 motor oils are not sufficient for protecting any Porsche engine. With longevity and the protection of vital engine components in mind, many shops are recommending non-approved oils or the addition of oil supplements at every oil change. Shops that used to run M1 in their race cars have either switched to Mobil's synthetic motorcycle oils or have resorted to using premium dino oills, such as Swepco 306 15w40 or Brad Penn Racing 20w50 oils, for their higher levels of protection. For most owners, the reduction in longevity of a catalytic converter is a small price to pay considering the many thousands of dollars it costs to properly rebuild a Porsche engine. It is worth noting that most Porsches have lived the majority of their lives with high Zn and P oils, and we never hear of problems with their catalytic converters.

Oil companies have been cutting back on the use of Zn and P as anti-wear additives, and turning to alternative zinc-free (ZF) additives and ashless dispersants since Zn, P, and sulfated ash have been found to be bad for catalytic converters. One such ZF dispersant/anti-wear additive is boron. Most of the SM and CJ-4 oils we tested contain significant concentrations of boron (B) to offset the reduction of Zn and P. The performance of these zinc-free anti-wear additives has only been proven with ultra-low sulphur fuels, not readily available in the United States with exception of new diesel fuels since 2007.

Additionally, Boron works best in the presence of Zn and P and may better serve to complement these anti-wear additives than as a replacement for them, according to recent studies. Since we are discussing boron and aircooled engines specifically, the highest levels of boron we found were in Harley Davidson's SYN3 motor oil, which is specifically formulated for an aircooled engine, but at levels six to ten times that of what is present in any reformulated SM or CJ-4 motor oil. Harley's SYN3 didn't reduce the Zn or P, just supplemented it with the added boron. Similarly, Swepco's 306 has high levels of boron in addition to high levels of Zn and P.

This reduction is a mandate issued by API, American Petroleum Institute, who is in charge of developing standing standards for motor oils. The latest API SM standard for car oils calls for a zinc and phosphorus content less than 0.08% to reduce sulfur, carbon monoxide, and hydrocarbon emissions. As a result of this mandate, some motor oils now have as little as 0.05% zinc and phosphorus. Prior to the new CJ-4 API standard for diesel oils, we found most of the CI-4 15w40 and 5w40 oils to have excellent levels of Zn and P. We did observe Mobil, among other manufacturers, beginning the use of boron in their oils as a zinc-free (ZF) anti-wear additive in various CI-4 and SL formulations, but always with high Zn and P levels, above current API limitations.

It would appear now that with the reduction of Zn and P in these newest CJ-4 oils, that boron will now become a more common anti-wear additive, and even with lowered Zn and P levels, the boron levels are still nowhere as close to what previous CI-4 and SL oils, so the long-term performance of these new oils is unknown and unproven in vehicles running fuels other than those classified as ultra-low sulphur, typically less than 10ppm as alluded to earlier. Remember, unleaded fuels don't have these low sulphur levels, at least right now anyways!

However, it is worth noting that these new API guidelines do not need apply to "racing," "severe duty," or any motor oils that do not carry an API "starburst" seal or clearly state for off-road-use only. Motor oils meeting "Energy Conserving I or II" standards should be avoided as well as those with an API SM classfication, with it's lower Zn and P levels, which applies only to 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30 "ILSAC" grades. Although having been more sensitive to emissions and the environment than American standards, we find the European ACEA A3 and B3/B4 classifications, which place a cap on P levels at 0.10-0.12%, to be better in taking into consideration wear and engine longevity while limiting emissions and protecting emissions control devices.

ACEA A3 sequences require higher high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) viscosities, stay in grade sheer stability, and tighter limits on evaporative loss, high temperature oxidation, and piston varnish. This makes oils meeting these ACEA standards that much better for your Porsche, especially since wear limits are much more stringent for valve train wear, 1/6th to 1/4th the wear allowed in the sequences for API's newest SM or CJ-4 standards. Porsche requires a minimum 3.5 cSt @ 150C HTHS viscosity, which is a good measure of the protection any given motor oil provides, and requires that all approved oils be of group III or better base stocks, which includes quality highly refined parrafinic petroleum bases like those used by Brad Penn and Swepco. In general, synthetics provide the best protection, but a good additive package and quality parrafinic base stock has been proven to work just as well according to research presented to the SAE.

Failure to use the right oil, use proper filtration, or observe proper changing intervals can affect the performance of even the best motor oil. This also includes changing the oil too often (needlessly bad for the environment and your wallet) or not often enough. Against conventional wisdom, engine wear decreases as oil ages to a certain extent, which means that changing your oil more frequently actually causes engine wear; these findings were substantiated by studies conducted by the auto manufacturers and petroleum companies, leading to drain intervals increased from 3,000mi to 5,000-7,500mi in most domestic vehicles, using mostly non-synthetic oils.

Based off of extremely long drain intervals recommended by most European manufacturers, some in excess of two years and 20,000 mi, some users have found it best to reduce those intervals by half or even a quarter. Vehicles with track time or sustained high oil temperatures or RPMs should have their oil changed after every event. Vehicles subjected to very short drives or sustained operation in heavy traffic should indeed be serviced more often. Regular used oil analysis is the best way to determine ideal drain intervals for your driving habits - a good rule of thumb is to change the oil with the TBN, or total base number, is reduced by 50% of the original total (requiring you to also know your oil's virgin TBN). With this knowledge in hand, using a quality motor oil with proper filtration and regular service is the best thing to do for your engine and to protect your investment.
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:06 AM
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I just measured them, Driver's is bigger, but is it used as well?
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:07 AM
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When I went for a post break-in oil/filter change at 1600 miles ($80), my SA said the M line still uses a special break-in oil.
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