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View Poll Results: Did you "bed" your brakes?
Yup. 20 41.67%
Nope. 24 50.00%
The procedure sounds about right. 5 10.42%
That's bs. 4 8.33%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 48. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:34 PM
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rost12 rost12 is offline
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Did you "bed" your brakes?

"If you've just installed a big brake kit or even if you've only changed your brake pads and rotors, you should "bed" them in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding of brakes will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors.

When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving so erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer."

I got this from
bmwm5.com.
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  #2  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:38 PM
chukiechz chukiechz is offline
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nope I didnt. My rotors are warped now though. Not sure if its because I didnt follow the bedding directions. Could be the pads too. Running Porterfield R4S on the front.
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  #3  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:40 PM
Alex Baumann Alex Baumann is offline
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Dave Zeckhausen has great info on his site about this
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  #4  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chukiechz
nope I didnt. My rotors are warped now though. Not sure if its because I didnt follow the bedding directions. Could be the pads too. Running Porterfield R4S on the front.
How much dust are you getting with the R4S pads versus stock? Have you had a chance to push them hard enough to see how they compare to stock for fade? Just curious.
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:42 PM
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My mother's got an Audi A6 and she's been having lot's of problems with it's brakes. She get's bad vibration at both high and low speeds, we take it in, they replace brake rotors due to warping, problem comes back in 3-4 months.

I know for a fact it's not her driving style... Maybe this "bedding" would help? I'll have to try.
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  #6  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Alex Baumann
Dave Zeckhausen has great info on his site about this
I'm pretty sure the article above was taken from his site. This was posted in a thread about StopTech brake kits by a guy who bought one from DZeckhausen.
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  #7  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:45 PM
Alex Baumann Alex Baumann is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by rost12
I'm pretty sure the article above was taken from his site. This was posted in a thread about StopTech brake kits by a guy who bought one from DZeckhausen.
Yes, I have just read it on his website
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  #8  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:46 PM
TD
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If you don't bed the pads properly, you will almost certainly "warp" the rotors at some point. Of course, they not really warped, but that's what everyone called the shuttering caused by improper bedding.
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  #9  
Old 05-28-2003, 06:49 PM
tgravo2 tgravo2 is offline
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Should this be done to a car when it's new? As in break in the stock brakes?
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  #10  
Old 05-28-2003, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rumatt
If they're not warped, what causes the shuttering? An uneven coefficient of friction across the varios parts of the rotor?
Yes. In vulgar terms, the pads crapped all over the rotors.
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  #11  
Old 05-28-2003, 07:03 PM
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Nice info Rost. When I installed my PBR brake pads, they gave instructions on how to break them in. They actually tell you to come to a complete stop. . . Hmmm. I think the method you described will actually work properly.

After about 10K miles, my rotors now shimmy when braking from higher speeds; but only after driving the car and braking for extended periods of time (like on twisties). Once the brakes cool down, the shimmy/shudder goes away. I'm not even sure what the hell is causing this intermitent problem.
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  #12  
Old 05-28-2003, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rumatt
If they're not warped, what causes the shuttering? An uneven coefficient of friction across the varios parts of the rotor?
Read this- http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm

Short version- "Warped" rotors are really rotors that have uneven deposits of brake pad material.
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  #13  
Old 05-29-2003, 10:46 AM
chukiechz chukiechz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by GregD
How much dust are you getting with the R4S pads versus stock? Have you had a chance to push them hard enough to see how they compare to stock for fade? Just curious.
I cant really compare stock to the porterfields becuase its been such a long time since I had stock pads on (car is a 93 ).
The R4S do dust up pretty good though. After a week or so, you can see that the fronts wheels are darker than the rears.

I've never gotten them to the point to where they fade. I dont do panic stops every time I come to a light, and I havent been to a track even yet. They do stop on a dime though, but my rotors are grooved. Thinking of switching pads, just no $$ for that now since Im trying to put M3 brakes in the rear to match the fronts.
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Old 05-29-2003, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by chukiechz
I cant really compare stock to the porterfields becuase its been such a long time since I had stock pads on (car is a 93 ).
The R4S do dust up pretty good though. After a week or so, you can see that the fronts wheels are darker than the rears.

I've never gotten them to the point to where they fade. I dont do panic stops every time I come to a light, and I havent been to a track even yet. They do stop on a dime though, but my rotors are grooved. Thinking of switching pads, just no $$ for that now since Im trying to put M3 brakes in the rear to match the fronts.
Sounds like they dust a LOT less than stock pads. One week with stock pads on an E36 or E46, and the wheels look almost completely black.
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  #15  
Old 05-29-2003, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rost12
My mother's got an Audi A6 and she's been having lot's of problems with it's brakes. She get's bad vibration at both high and low speeds, we take it in, they replace brake rotors due to warping, problem comes back in 3-4 months.

I know for a fact it's not her driving style... Maybe this "bedding" would help? I'll have to try.
Audis are known to have crappy brakes. It's the first thing the "serious" enthusiast replaces on them.
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  #16  
Old 05-29-2003, 12:27 PM
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A6 4.2... not the modder's choice, hence I couldn't even find any brake kits for it.

I'll just keep "fixing" it under warranty till she get's something else.
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  #17  
Old 05-29-2003, 04:04 PM
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How long after new brakes can you do this? My car's only got something like 900km on it now...
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  #18  
Old 05-29-2003, 07:39 PM
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I'm assuming it won't hurt, michelito. If there are uneven brake pad deposits on the disk already, you probably will "even" them out. Othen than that, I can't see any possible problems.

I've got 2600kms, I'll give it a try anyhow when I find time/place for that.
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Old 05-30-2003, 08:10 AM
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Burnishing Instructions Per HAWK (installed on my E34)

1. After installing new brake pads, make 6-10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph appying moderate pressure.

2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 mph

3. DO NOT DRAG BRAKES!

4. Allow 15 minutes for the brake system to cool down

5. After step 4 your new brake pads are ready to use.
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2003, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by tgravo2
Should this be done to a car when it's new? As in break in the stock brakes?
Can someone answer this? Do we need to do this on new cars with stock brakes?

Thanks...
SteveH
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Old 05-30-2003, 08:25 AM
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Re: Did you "bed" your brakes?

Quote:
Originally posted by rost12
...

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. ...
So do you have to repeat the procedure let's say every time after it rains (or you wash the car) and you have some little rust deposit on the brakes to get back to the blue tint/light grey film on the rotors?!? Or will regular braking remove the rust dust after water exposure and get back to the blue tint...?
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Old 05-30-2003, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hockeynut
Can someone answer this? Do we need to do this on new cars with stock brakes?

Thanks...
SteveH
Hate to say it, but RTFM.

The owners manual says:

Brake System

Approximately 300 miles must elapse before the brake pads and rotors achieve the optimal pad surface and wear patterns required for trouble-free operation and long service life later on.

To break-in the separate parking brake drums, apply the parking brake lightly when coasting to a standstill (at a traffic signal, for instance) provided that traffic conditions allow you to do so. Avoid corrosion, repeat this procedure from time to time.

Page 114 in my 2001 manual.
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  #23  
Old 05-30-2003, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sean
Hate to say it, but RTFM.

As soon as I take delivery I certainly will.

Unfortunately the 04 manuals aren't on Owners Circle yet.

SteveH
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Old 05-30-2003, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by hockeynut
As soon as I take delivery I certainly will.

Unfortunately the 04 manuals aren't on Owners Circle yet.

SteveH
Regarding this issue they're all the same. The owners manual to my 1992 525i states the same thing.
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  #25  
Old 05-30-2003, 12:05 PM
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Re: Re: Did you "bed" your brakes?

Quote:
Originally posted by michelito
So do you have to repeat the procedure let's say every time after it rains (or you wash the car) and you have some little rust deposit on the brakes to get back to the blue tint/light grey film on the rotors?!? Or will regular braking remove the rust dust after water exposure and get back to the blue tint...?
No, you don't have to do it every time. The full "bedding" procedure should be done once, you only can/have to repeat it when you replace brake pads or rotors.

Rust goes away after a few stops, it's no biggie. The main goal of "bedding" is to put an even layer of brake-pad material onto the brake disk. This happens at high temperatures and brake pad material fuses with the metal of brake disks, so there's no way it will be removed by water or normal braking.
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