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Tighten your ground wire today

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117K views 56 replies 32 participants last post by  seemyad  
#1 ·
Hey everybody, maybe you've been reading about my electrical problems with my 2000 528i in another thread. I thought I had found the culprit, but I was wrong.

Saturday, the electrical problems started again. I got out my service manual and started researching everything that could go wrong. I ran across a picture of a ground wire that I was not aware of (I had already cleaned and tightened the ones on the fender with all the brown wires hanging out the bottom). I think everyone with an E39 should take 5 minutes and check this out. It may save you some headaches and $.

You just need a 10mm wrench or socket.

Open hood. Unlatch the wire retainer from the passenger side cabin filter housing. Remove the lid. Remove the oval duct from the side by popping up the three locking tabs and rotate the duct toward the engine out of the way. Remove the cabin filter and housing by pulling up on the engine side and pulling toward the engine. Underneath, you will see a tuperware like container with a flat top. This contains a several relays and modules that control your cars emissions and performance. On the outside of this container (closest to the engine) you'll see a couple of rubber boots that serve as electrical raceways coming out of the container. At that location there will be a metal stud with wires and a nut. Mine was so loose I could take it off by hand. Take some sandpaper or plumbers cloth and shine up the terminals and tighten that nut.

As soon as I did, all of my electrical problems ceased. I had been having trouble with my cruise control working intermittently ever since I purchased the car. Now it works like new.

My DSC and brake light would come on after about 5 minutes of driving - and I thought it was a speed sensor or ABS unit going out. Now that's fixed.

Most recently, my car was dying altogether while driving. All of the lights on the dash would light up and the temp gauge would peg in conjunction with losing all power. Sitting on the side of the road is no fun. Now that's fixed.

Everyone within the sound of my voice should at least check this connection. It shouldn't take more than 5 minutes (seriously). If it helps you, please report back and post on this thread. Thanks!
 
#3 ·
Great post!
 
#8 ·
Mine was pretty tight. I managed to turn the nut another maybe 20 degrees tighter with my 10mm box end wrench, whereas some other grounds in the engine compartment were already too tight for me to tighten... if that makes any sense. So I'm saying that that ground stud was the loosest on my car, of the four I checked.

BTW, the whole air filter / tupperware box discussion is useful for locating the ground screw, but it's not necessary to pull any of that stuff apart in order to tighten the nut.

Thanks OP! :thumbup:
 
#30 ·
Mine was pretty tight. I managed to turn the nut another maybe 20 degrees tighter with my 10mm box end wrench, whereas some other grounds in the engine compartment were already too tight for me to tighten... if that makes any sense. So I'm saying that that ground stud was the loosest on my car, of the four I checked.

BTW, the whole air filter / tupperware box discussion is useful for locating the ground screw, but it's not necessary to pull any of that stuff apart in order to tighten the nut.

Thanks OP! :thumbup:[/QU

Your right dont need to take apart the tupperware !!!
 
#9 ·
Great tip! I have found with any car over 7 or 8 years old, that ground connections are always one of the first things to check when electrical gremlins show up. The hardest part is finding where all the main ground points are, and your tip helps by fiind what appears to be a rather hidden one. Thanks!
 
owns 2001 BMW 540 M-Sport
#10 ·
I have the gremlins right now, have changed the ignition switch to no avail. My symptoms are loss of turn signal, central locking, wiper high-speed setting, headlight and fog light lamps on dash and digital clock on radio. The problems seem to be more prolific in the rain. I will check this ground point and let you know what I find. Are there any other ground points I should check?
 
#14 ·
is the point the same in the 540's? (too lazy to take apart to find it's not ;)
 
#17 ·
Do we need a quick class on posting pics?
 
#22 ·
I'm feeling really cheated here.....
 
#23 · (Edited)
This is a photo I had, from when my #$@$% mechanic left the parts that you see missing (the tupperware cover, and air filter assembly) in the trunk! DO NOT try to drive your car in the rain with these wires exposed!

Image


This at least gives you an idea of the area he's talking about.
 
#24 ·
Hi djt5150,

Your problem with the abs/cruise intermittent failure sounds exactly like mine. I've had new wheel speed sensor, new abs sensor as reported as a fault on th DME....I also get an intermittent pixel failure on the odometer (trip meter). I'll check this out as soon as I can. BTW, where are all the other grounding points? Meanwhile, thanks for the great post.
 
#25 ·
I found three ground points in the engine bay of my 03 touring, located on the inside of the wing in front of the suspension bulkheads. They looked in good condition but I cleaned them up all the same. One of these grounds leads back to the Tupper ware control box, could not see any others. Did notice that the steel gutter behind the Tupper-ware box was full of water and dripping down on the back right cap screw holding on the lid of the box. This has being going on for a while as the screw is badly corroded. Had a look inside the box, things seemed dry but maybe there is some moisture getting in. Unblocked the drain hole so let***8217;s wait for the next deluge, in these parts shouldn***8217;t be long. Will keep you informed.
 
#26 ·
I didn't post any pics because it's pretty self-explanatory. It's not like we're trying to swap out axles or anything. This is a 5 minute deal.

Thank you, Airwreck for the pic. You viewers at home do not need to remove the cover from the tuperware container like his picture shows. Refering to this picture, do you see the rubber conduit coming out the front right side of the tuperware container closest to the engine (as opposed to the back right)? It's under the cabin air filter duct. If you look at where that rubber conduit comes out of the container, you will see a threaded stud on the sheet metal. There should be a black wire attached to that stud. This is the grounding point for your DME, and all of those other printed circuit board modules that are located in the sealed tuperware container.

Use a 10mm wrench and take it off, then use some plumbers cloth or sandpaper to "roughen up" the metal so it's shiny again on both the washer and the stud. Tighten it back up.

Then, if you were to look just below Airwreck's picture (going toward the headlight), you'll find several black connectors full of brown wires attached to studs on the sheet metal chassis. Take these off, and rough them up, and put them back on.

I don't know if this will even help anybody else. My wife was stranded on the side of the road, and I just happen to read about this in the BFM. Not only did it save me a tow bill and the inevitable rape from the dealer, but it also fixed my intermittent cruise control issue, and speed sensor-like symptoms (DSC/ABS lights coming on). I'm curious if fixing this ground will solve anybody else's cruise control, speed sensor, ABS/DSC symptoms. It may save somebody from having their ABS module reconditioned from modulemasters or bba.