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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:27 AM
ZIGGURAT89 ZIGGURAT89 is offline
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How often should we replace coolant hoses on our cars?

Is it time to replace the coolant hoses at 140k miles? They appear to be in good condition.
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  #2  
Old 08-11-2008, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ZIGGURAT89 View Post
Is it time to replace the coolant hoses at 140k miles? They appear to be in good condition.
Are you a good gambler? That is really what you are asking. If the upper and lower radiator hoses are what you are referring to they are less than $50 for the pair and it would be a shame for you to blow an engine due to overheating from a blown hose.
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  #3  
Old 08-11-2008, 09:18 AM
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Scott ZHP Scott ZHP is offline
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It was time about 40k miles ago.

The expansion tank is probably the weakest link. I'd change that as well as hoses and belts at a minimum. If it were mine, I'd also replace the waterpump and the thermostat.

Or roll the dice and pay a whole lot more when something eventually fails.

How long do you plan on keeping the car in question?
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A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #4  
Old 08-11-2008, 10:09 AM
ZIGGURAT89 ZIGGURAT89 is offline
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I replaced the entire cooling system( thermostat, wp, radiator, expansion tank) at around 100k miles. I don't think they changed the hoses, but I will get it changed soon. Is it necessary to change the coolant hose to the expansion tank?
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  #5  
Old 08-11-2008, 06:59 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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My Bentley manual says "every four years". I'm good with that. Cheap enough, as smolck said. Why not change them when it's convenient for you?
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2008, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ZIGGURAT89 View Post
I replaced the entire cooling system( thermostat, wp, radiator, expansion tank) at around 100k miles. I don't think they changed the hoses, but I will get it changed soon. Is it necessary to change the coolant hose to the expansion tank?
The coolant hose to the expansion tank is effectively the upper rad hose.

At 140k, I'd buy some parts and make a date

Surprised that a shop would change the hard parts and skip hoses; thats odd to me .
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A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #7  
Old 08-12-2008, 04:37 PM
BMWayne BMWayne is offline
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i replace mine everyday, and i only use the dealer, so yea... i have a money tree.
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  #8  
Old 08-13-2008, 08:02 AM
Hutchman Hutchman is offline
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I think it depends on your location. My 325 has 92,000. Here in Houston they do not go through the extreme temperature changes they do in the North. I had the hoses off when I replaced my water pump and thermostat (preventative mx, 85k) they did not show any wear whatsoever. I snapped them back on and have no leaks at all.
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  #9  
Old 08-13-2008, 08:06 AM
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I think it depends on your location. My 325 has 92,000. Here in Houston they do not go through the extreme temperature changes they do in the North. I had the hoses off when I replaced my water pump and thermostat (preventative mx, 85k) they did not show any wear whatsoever. I snapped them back on and have no leaks at all.
In my experience, hoses don't show wear, they just fail suddenly.
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JUST...LOOK...UNDER...THE...CAR....for Chrissakes....it`s like checking to see if a dog is male or female....
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A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #10  
Old 08-13-2008, 08:16 AM
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I think it depends on your location. My 325 has 92,000. Here in Houston they do not go through the extreme temperature changes they do in the North. I had the hoses off when I replaced my water pump and thermostat (preventative mx, 85k) they did not show any wear whatsoever. I snapped them back on and have no leaks at all.
I think that was a big $40 gamble. But then again here in Alabama I have similar weather to Houston. My hoses are WELL past due for a change too...
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #11  
Old 08-13-2008, 09:44 AM
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LKNGOOD LKNGOOD is offline
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I'm planning in changing a few hoses also since I'm about to change the water pump.

I have a question about what hoses to change?

I plan on changing the following:

Part # 11531436408 BMW (OE)/CRP-Contitech - Radiator Hose; Lower to Thermostat Housing with Temperature Sensor Fitting $20.33
(#03 from realoem.com under Engine Cooling)

Part # 17127510952 BMW (OE)/CRP-Contitech - Radiator Hose; Upper Radiator to Thermostat Housing $28.09
(#01 from realoem.com under Engine Cooling)

Part # 17137787039 MTC/OES Expansion Tank/Coolant Reservoir $49.95
(#05 from realoem.com under Radiator)

Part # 11531436410 CRP-Contitech - Cooling/Coolant Hose; Water Pipe to Expansion Tank $18.43
(#05 from realoem.com under Engine Cooling)

I'm ordering these parts from autohausaz.com

My question is do I need to also order these two additional hoses?

Part # R3055-279112* or 11531705210 Heater Inlet Pipe $29.00
(#08 from realoem.com under Engine Cooling)

Part # G2021-279352 or 11537502525 Water Pipe $33.97
(#06 from realoem.com under Engine Cooling)
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  #12  
Old 08-13-2008, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by LKNGOOD View Post

My question is do I need to also order these two additional hoses?

Part # R3055-279112* or 11531705210 Heater Inlet Pipe $29.00
(#08 from realoem.com under Engine Cooling)

Part # G2021-279352 or 11537502525 Water Pipe $33.97
(#06 from realoem.com under Engine Cooling)
I dont know. The heater inlet pipe doesn't sound like a hose, besides it is under the manifold, so unless you plan on removing the upper intake, you ain't gonna get to it! I wouldn't worry about it, I have NEVER heard of those being a common failure (but it COULD happen I guess).
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #13  
Old 08-13-2008, 10:58 AM
desertrat desertrat is offline
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Two questions if I may: I have the two hoses, two belts, a water pump with a metal impeller, a thermostat and a Bentley book. I am going to order an expansion tank and a gallon of BMW antifreeze. Do I need to order hose clamps or can I reuse the original ones? The new water pump I have does not have a pulley wheel on it, do I need to replace that also?
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  #14  
Old 08-13-2008, 11:12 AM
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KrisL KrisL is offline
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Two questions if I may: I have the two hoses, two belts, a water pump with a metal impeller, a thermostat and a Bentley book. I am going to order an expansion tank and a gallon of BMW antifreeze. Do I need to order hose clamps or can I reuse the original ones? The new water pump I have does not have a pulley wheel on it, do I need to replace that also?
The BMW hoses do not use clamps.

If the water pump pulley is metal, I don't think it requires replacing. I'd definitely pick up 4 of the bolts that attach the pulley to the water pump however.. they're only to be tightened to about 7lb/ft and are VERY easy to strip... ask me how I know.
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  #15  
Old 08-13-2008, 11:25 AM
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I think that was a big $40 gamble. But then again here in Alabama I have similar weather to Houston. My hoses are WELL past due for a change too...
Best plan is to replace all the hoses, and all the other cooling system components on a regular schedule. For the 540 that would be about 60 -80,000 miles depending how lucky you feel. If one component such as the expansion tank, cracks, replace everything as it is just a matter of time before everything else blows. Like others here say hoses are cheap, engines are expensive.
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2008, 11:29 AM
desertrat desertrat is offline
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The BMW hoses do not use clamps.

If the water pump pulley is metal, I don't think it requires replacing. I'd definitely pick up 4 of the bolts that attach the pulley to the water pump however.. they're only to be tightened to about 7lb/ft and are VERY easy to strip... ask me how I know.
OK thanks, I'll check the pulley and make sure it's metal.
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  #17  
Old 08-13-2008, 11:51 AM
scrapcan scrapcan is offline
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as having just done this on a new to us used car, just change all the components and the belts while you are in there. It is money well spent and takes no more time to replace the hoses with the water pump as it does just for the pump.
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  #18  
Old 08-13-2008, 01:22 PM
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... ask me how I know.
How do you know?
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Old 08-13-2008, 02:26 PM
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How do you know?
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JUST...LOOK...UNDER...THE...CAR....for Chrissakes....it`s like checking to see if a dog is male or female....
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A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #20  
Old 08-13-2008, 02:59 PM
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MMME30W MMME30W is offline
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How do you know?
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  #21  
Old 08-13-2008, 03:00 PM
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How do you know?
because I read it on the internet, DUH
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Old 08-13-2008, 03:10 PM
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because I read it on the internet, DUH
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2008, 04:19 PM
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because I read it on the internet, DUH
Hmm, thinking about this some more... the water pump flange is threaded, the pulley is just along for the ride. Did you crack the bakelite pulley or strip the water pump threads? Or maybe both?

I am running Turner Motorsport T-6061 aluminum (underdrive) pulleys for the alt/waterpump/PS pump.
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JUST...LOOK...UNDER...THE...CAR....for Chrissakes....it`s like checking to see if a dog is male or female....
Quote:
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A bimmer with forced induction should have a proper manual gearbox. Anything less is like french kissing your sister.
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2008, 05:42 PM
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I am running Turner Motorsport T-6061 aluminum (underdrive) pulleys for the alt/waterpump/PS pump.
I was thinking of investing in some of these. Any advice on whether or not they are worth it in your application?
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2008, 05:52 PM
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Hmm, thinking about this some more... the water pump flange is threaded, the pulley is just along for the ride. Did you crack the bakelite pulley or strip the water pump threads? Or maybe both?
I just stripped the $.87 bolt.
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