Spark plug DIY at 100k 745i

i used ngk and they worked like a charm. i believe they use ngk or bosch. its one of those 2. dont get them from the dealer, they have the exact same plugs for about 4 bucks at the auto parts stores.

here you go! post 1 of this thread had the info. ngk

Originally Posted by Judd944

Changed the oil and did the spark plugs last weekend. Did not find a good writeup so I made one. I have a work document with photos. can I attach that?


Spark Plug change 2003 BMW 745i (E65)

I changed the oil first but taking the car off the ramps will make for better access. All the work is done from the top.

Tools needed:
Torx T30
Torx T25
Spark plug socket
10mm extended socket
2 3/8 drive extensions
Tape (trust me on this)
Wrench
Torque Wrench

Parts Needed:
8 new NGK spark plugs ($28 each at dealer, or under $2 each at Advance Auto)



Procedure:
Using the T30 torx screwdriver remove the four screws that hold the plastic engine cover to the top of the engine.


I also removed the plastic guards above the radiator fan for better access (T25)



I took this opportunity to vacuum the top of the engine and then used some compressed air to clean the dust and dirt off the engine. (do not do this with the spark plugs out!!!)

The next part that comes off is the “BMW” side covers. They will just pull straight out. They are held in by friction. No tools are needed for removal.

Now you will be looking at the coils on the spark plugs.




The coils should be removed one at a time. I started at the front and worked my way back to the firewall.
Below is a coil that has been removed.


Some of these are difficult to remove and will require some serious pulling. Rotate them back and forth to loosen the coils. Do not use any tools to pry the coils out. You do not want to break the harness clip.

The rear plugs (closest to the firewall) are a serious PITA. I needed to tape a few shorter 3/8 extensions together as I put them into the spark plug hole. Removing them I needed to cut the tape and remove each piece one at a time.


Below is the “tool” I made



Be sure to apply anti-seize on the threads before installing the new sparkplugs.
Torque the new sparkplugs in to 19 ft-lbs (or whatever the plugs state)

Push on the coil and be sure it “pops” back on. It will kind of click when it is on all the way. Clip on the harness and you are back in business.

Be sure to start the car before putting the covers back on the engine and take this time to reset the spark plug counter to 100k.
• Put the key in, do not put your foot on the brake
• Hit the start button
• Hold down the trip reset for 10 sec.
• Page through until you get to spark plugs and reset the value

My wife noticed MPG went from 24mpg to 25.6 mpg. Looks like the spark plugs were due! I changed them at 95k.

Originally Posted by MakaveliFaison

here you go! post 1 of this thread had the info. ngk

Hmm.... A Parts person from 1 dealer said Bosch Platinum Plus and another said NGK.

Well I used ngk, never had a misfire.

Excellent write up.This should be added as a sticky in the DIY section. Where is MWong we you need him. Lol.

Has anyone use the Pulstar?

Is there a place to get these tools cheap?

Also do I need to disengage the battery?

Iridium is the way to go; I did a 16k service on my 2007 Ninja ZX14 and the plugs were like new, almost don't wear at all.

Do any of you know the gap settings for the plugs?

I'm reading .044

The pics aren't for a 2007 FYI. Different engine set up. I'm doing mine now.

Wish I had found this write-up last yr. Would have saved me hundreds of dollars

MJ spend the money. This wasn't easy. I'm giving up. Just put my coils back in and returning spark plugs.

^lol

Originally Posted by dontaewsu

MJ spend the money. This wasn't easy. I'm giving up. Just put my coils back in and returning spark plugs.

Done give up..the back cylinders are hard to get to but there is a write up on here. To get the plug out you need to use a flexible socket extender or two 3 inch extenders. What I did was put the socket with one extender attached into the spark plug hole...once the first one is in the hole I would attach the second extender...that worked perfectly. You also need a magnet fetch tool to get the extender with the socket out of the hole if it happens to fall in while you're trying to remove or connect the second extender.

Bought NGK4294 (PLATINUM AND IRIDIUM) (for 750LI) From Rock auto delivered priority mail for 82.38.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...R100-4294-3252

Even the NGK website says that the cheaper IRIDIUM'S are not ideal for the BMW
http://www.ngk.com/ngk-aut-c1411.aspx

Originally Posted by a156782

Hmm.... A Parts person from 1 dealer said Bosch Platinum Plus and another said NGK.

BMW sources their oem plugs from both, sometimes within the same engine, but mostly from engine to engine I imagine.

Originally Posted by atrovarious

Bought NGK4294 (PLATINUM AND IRIDIUM) (for 750LI) From Rock auto delivered priority mail for 82.38.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...R100-4294-3252

Even the NGK website says that the cheaper IRIDIUM'S are not ideal for the BMW
http://www.ngk.com/ngk-aut-c1411.aspx

Which ones are the cheaper iridiums? I used the NGK Iridiums that everyone else on here were using.. So far they have been fine.. I do get a little upset RPM when I first start my car sometimes but it smooths out in a matter of a couple seconds

Originally Posted by cmpcpro

Which ones are the cheaper iridiums? I used the NGK Iridiums that everyone else on here were using.. So far they have been fine.. I do get a little upset RPM when I first start my car sometimes but it smooths out in a matter of a couple seconds

Anything that isn't a 4294 is a cheaper version (other than the 35$ RACING version). If your retail shop want's less than about 13.50 to order them in, they are likely not 4294's. Even Amazon is about this price.

Originally Posted by cmpcpro

Which ones are the cheaper iridiums? I used the NGK Iridiums that everyone else on here were using.. So far they have been fine.. I do get a little upset RPM when I first start my car sometimes but it smooths out in a matter of a couple seconds

Some are iridium, some are platinum. Only this one is both.

Also.... Don't use anti-seize compounds on silver threads...
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

Originally Posted by atrovarious

Also.... Don't use anti-seize compounds on silver threads...
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf

Well I've always used anti sieze.. I guess next time I won't though I don't see the problem as I don't wrap down on my ratchet when installing, I go a little past snug, but nowhere near as tight as a regular bolt. Those broken plugs are crazy, those guys must have really wrenched down on those, they're broken in two! I am glad mine didn't break if I wasn't supposed to use it..

Originally Posted by atrovarious

Some are iridium, some are platinum. Only this one is both.

So I installed the NGK iridiums that everyone on here was raving about.. so could these be damaging? Should I replace them again in a few months? They have been in there for going on two months now.

Originally Posted by cmpcpro

So I installed the NGK iridiums that everyone on here was raving about.. so could these be damaging? Should I replace them again in a few months? They have been in there for going on two months now.

No, they just are not ideal for 100k mile application. If you are referring to the 4 prong, again, they won't last as long as iridium AND platinum (though they may exist), and I doubt they will do any damage.

Remember when Split Fire's came out What's next? 6 prong?