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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 01-19-2011, 08:05 PM
dbirdez dbirdez is offline
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Thanks for the write up Kraft!!!!! I used to repair circuitry on tdd's (telephone device for deaf) and was hesitant to "cut" out the resin or what ever that is so I took 2 small paint brushes , made a chisel end on one and sharpend the other in the pencil sharpener.
I still used the heat gun like you mentioned , but now I could kindof gouge out the resin w the chisel end and fine tune w the pointed one and not worry about scratching the printed board.
I am in the process of finishing it so hopefully it works .
Tlhanks again
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  #102  
Old 01-19-2011, 08:51 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbirdez View Post
I am in the process of finishing it so hopefully it works
Would love to see pics of the problem and results.
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  #103  
Old 01-26-2011, 04:15 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Today Mark at EACtuning and Pleiades and I were revisiting the right brand of FSU:
- Fourth FSU in two years

Rather than rehash that guy's problem (like buying from Ebay & buying used), do we yet have a good listing of which FSU manufacturer is the one to get for our E39s?

Here's the summary from back in August in post #69 of this thread:
Recommended:
- Sitronic/Bosch

Not recommended:
- GKR
- Behr
- Valeo,
- Siemens

Certainly not recommended:
- Meyle
- Hella
- Uro
- Denso
- Power Pro

Is this the final summary for recommended reliable replacement FSUs ?

Note: Below is the EAC Tuning replacement (I presume it's made by Sitronics based on what I can see of the label).
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  #104  
Old 01-28-2011, 06:52 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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As a cross reference, over here, where a new FSR wasn't working:
- New FSR not working

... are interesting pictures of a Chinese-made Behr/Hella FSR.

Notice how badly the sticker is placed on the FSU. That's unusual (so far).

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Last edited by bluebee; 01-28-2011 at 06:55 PM.
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  #105  
Old 02-18-2011, 03:23 PM
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Over in the E46 side of the house, they're struggling with a procedure for testing the FSUs.
- How to check blower motor resistor

I'm surprised, with all these extra FSUs floating around, that more autopsies haven't been performed.

I guess not everyone is curious?
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  #106  
Old 03-21-2011, 12:18 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This thread is probably the best thread for explaining which FSR to buy and which NOT to buy ... but ... the information is buried half way down ... and the title of this thread doesn't imply that it covers the brand to buy.

So ...

To refer others to it in the future, I just now opened a new thread (of course, pointing to this thread) that 'does' ask the question point blank:

- What is the right brand of FSU (aka FSR) final stage resistor/unit to buy for the E39

Please post brand PICTURES to that thread so that we may refer others to it (since the question seems to pop up frequently). The pictures you post should show the brand information (as FSU branding is a complex mix of marketing agreements that I, for one, cannot fathom).
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  #107  
Old 04-02-2011, 07:43 PM
yoshi900 yoshi900 is offline
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Another FSU fixed by digging out the epoxy.

picture of the FSU.

also picture of the pinout on the connector side.
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  #108  
Old 04-02-2011, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoshi900 View Post
Another FSU fixed by digging out the epoxy
I must apologize for asking ... but ... I'm still a bit confused about how the reputed 'fix' supposedly works.

From the original post:
Quote:
the 928 was known to have terminal ECU failures due to resin which retracts while getting old with the result of breaking hybrid circuits and removing soldering from some cms components from mainboard.
Bmw seems to have same issues
OK. I get that the 'resin' is 'contracting' and, in doing so, it's pulling components off the board ...

But, what I don't get is how just removing the resin "fixes" the FSU. I mean, it's not putting the components back on the board, is it? It's not resoldering any broken solder connections, is it?

I don't get it. How does just removing the resin, 'fix' the FSU?
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  #109  
Old 04-11-2011, 12:41 PM
yoshi900 yoshi900 is offline
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Update on FSU "fix".

after a week, the FSU was acting up again. first few minutes after starting the car, fan was blowing a bit erratic. fan speed was pretty slow then suddenly came back and back to normal. then it was working normal for the rest of the day.

so the "fix" is temporary and I'll be ordering a new one soon. can't afford to have it fail when summer comes around.
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  #110  
Old 05-03-2011, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoshi900 View Post
I'll be ordering a new one soon.
What brand did you order?

BTW, today another FSU/FSR failed in less than a year:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > FSU vs FSR difference and symptoms?

So I asked the OP of that thread to post a picture of the label of the failed FSU/FSR so that we can anecdotally add yet another vote against whatever brand it was.

For the record, I also provided these related threads from the bestlinks:
- What is the right brand of BMW E39 FSU (aka FSR) to purchase (1) (2) when your interior heating & air conditioning HVAC/IHKA blower motor goes haywire (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & how to repair your own final stage resistor including an autopsy & wiring diagram schematic (1) (2) and why a bad final stage unit will cause the battery to drain overnight (1) (2) (3) & how to isolate and replace the E39 blower motor (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how not to replace the FSU (1)
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  #111  
Old 06-17-2011, 10:32 PM
mtbokc mtbokc is offline
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WOW…Unbelievable!!!

I carved out just like you said and were back to a 100%. I signed up here for the first time just looking for some help with my A/C and found your post. Thanks a million kraft. Do you know if those who tried your repair job (including yourself) started having problems again later and also what would happen if I didn’t refill the space with a silicon paste and just left it empty? (anybody?) Thanks again kraft, great post!
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  #112  
Old 06-25-2011, 08:31 PM
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ill_kuma ill_kuma is offline
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My fan motor stop running yesterday and was about to purchase a new FSU unit last night but decided to check out here first. After reading this thread I was excited to try it and very skeptical. I did it today while I as at my friends BBQ and they all thought I was wasting my time. We were so amazed when it worked! Thanks kraft!

No one ever mentioned what kind of silicone they used. I was not sure of what to use so I just left it like that and plugged it in. Is it bad to leave it like that? I will fill it in with silicone when you guys let me know which brand and type to use. Also, how long will this method work before actually having to replace the FSU unit?

Last edited by ill_kuma; 06-25-2011 at 08:33 PM.
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  #113  
Old 06-27-2011, 11:06 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edjack View Post
it's also potted with silicone
For the record, the previous repair refers to this ill_kuma successful repair using the Kraft method:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Repaired my FSU unit

Last edited by bluebee; 06-27-2011 at 11:08 AM.
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  #114  
Old 07-09-2011, 04:00 AM
Dennis Hon Dennis Hon is offline
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Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
cn90 posted some useful information here about what some of the FSU pins actually do and how to test 'em ...

Also kraft apparently FIXED his FSU by gouging out the resin, resoldering connections, and then filling the holes with silicone!




Thank you guys for these information...
My Bimmer is a 1997 E39 528I
My unit is different (see pic). There is a protective casing to cover the circuits, the epoksi does not stick to the Circuits. I tried to press in the chips and others but doesnt work. Can anyone help or share?.
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  #115  
Old 07-13-2011, 09:12 AM
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For the record, we're making some progress on the question:

- What is the right brand of FSU (aka FSR) final stage resistor/unit to buy for the E39
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  #116  
Old 07-13-2011, 12:55 PM
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Josh P. Josh P. is offline
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Can someone post the fuse # for the blower motor, por favor?
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  #117  
Old 07-29-2011, 09:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh P. View Post
Can someone post the fuse # for the blower motor, por favor?
I don't know which fuse it is but I would think the fuse number would be in one of these canonical FSU threads from the bestlinks:
- What is the canonical thread on the BMW E39 FSU/FSR/Blower Motor Resistor (1) and what is the right brand FSR to purchase (1) (2) when your interior heating & air conditioning HVAC/IHKA blower motor goes haywire (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) & how to repair your own final stage resistor including an autopsy & wiring diagram schematic (1) (2) and why a bad final stage unit will cause the battery to drain overnight (1) (2) (3) & how to isolate and replace the E39 blower motor (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how not to replace the FSU (1)

Regarding repairing the FSU, which is the topic of this thread by Kraft, Tema, today, left me a PM pointing out yet another FSU thread on a different web site where at least two users repaired their FSU by reflowing the solder:

- Final Stage Resistor resoldering fix DIY

Quote:
If you find that your blower motor is pulsing or randomly coming on after your vehicle is turned off, this may be your answer. If your blower motor is on full all the time, this fix may not work as the semiconductors may be shorted at this point.

Remove the FSR from your vehicle. Carefully remove the potting material in the corner shown. Go slowly because you don't want to damage the circuit board below. The potting material is soft so this process is relatively easy.

You will see two sets of three legs when you have successfully removed this material. To see the board and these pins easier, you may want to put some contact cleaner on the end of a Q-Tip and wipe the board to remove access "small bits" of loose potting material.

In most cases, the solder will be broken around these pins connecting to the circuit board causing erratic operation
, "blower motor doing it's own thing."

Carefully resolder these pins.

Make sure you don't bridge any pins with solder. If you do bridge the pins, remove the access solder and try again. Run a small jewelers screw driver between the pins to make sure there are no solder bridges. Once this is done, you are ready to try it.

You can see my FSR below. This is what I have done and it now works great. You will see some larger solder connections, I have done this to prevent future problems.


A second person posted saying they fixed theirs the same way.
Quote:
My fan quit today so I pulled that bastard out, re-flowed the solder joints and its working again.
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  #118  
Old 08-14-2011, 08:27 AM
steveo1729 steveo1729 is offline
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FSU Fixed

Thanks Blubee, great post! Symptoms on my E39 were the blower became intermittent about a week ago and then stopped completely. All A/C panel lights and interface work as normal, just no blower. Your fix worked like a charm, I did open all of the black potting compound but re-soldered the 6 pins as in your pic. Tested it just hanging loose and blower worked! I filled the cavity with regular silicone sealant, let it cure and then re-installed. HVAC is now fully operational and I've saved the $75 from NAPA or $150 from the dealer. I'll post again if the issue comes back. Thanks again!

Last edited by steveo1729; 08-14-2011 at 08:29 AM.
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  #119  
Old 12-24-2011, 11:08 AM
CompactWRC CompactWRC is offline
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Hello, I have a problem.

I tried to repare my final resistor unit and made a mistake removing the gum and broke a "capacitor" (I´m not sure). How can I do know? I dont know the capacity or if really was a capacitor.

My car is a BMW 320 td compact (2003)

Sorry for my english.



Between the both pins my multimeters find a diode.
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  #120  
Old 12-25-2011, 07:43 AM
jygesq jygesq is offline
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just by a new one from your /bmw dealer, only safe way to fix it.
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  #121  
Old 12-25-2011, 07:53 AM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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Interesting, repair the fsu or clean it up rather than replace it.
Cost of the fsu is not high, but if you can consistently repair them and you have the time .... why not?
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  #122  
Old 12-25-2011, 12:07 PM
CompactWRC CompactWRC is offline
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I saw the images in the page 4 of the circuit whitout covert gum and definitely it is a capacitor but I need the capacity:



The other thing that I want to know is how the circuit works?

I measure the volts in the connector:

1) + battery
2) - Ground
3) + fan
4) - fan
5) 2-8 V according to velocity roulette selectión

I undestand that the roulette potenciometer send the variable voltage to the microcontroler that makes an A/D conversión and consecuently acts, whit a PWM exit, in the MOSFET that controls the fan but, and the second MOSFET?

greetings

Last edited by CompactWRC; 12-25-2011 at 12:08 PM. Reason: errors
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  #123  
Old 12-26-2011, 10:31 AM
CompactWRC CompactWRC is offline
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last update

I simulate externaly the functioning of the module putting 12 V in suply pins and a variable signal (0-8 V) in the control pin (A/C module) and the exit pins (fan pins) works perfectly varying between 0 and 12 V but when I connect the module in the car it doesn´t work.

I test the fuses and all are ok.

I don´t understand.
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  #124  
Old 12-29-2011, 02:48 AM
olivier577 olivier577 is offline
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Hi I'm about to open my 2002 original FSU also, to repair it or at least to try ...
for the 1st mosfet I was thinking it was the switch from 0v to -motor and the 2nd mosfet the switch from +12V to +motor

Do you know what are the 2 big bridges on the board ?
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  #125  
Old 12-29-2011, 09:07 AM
CompactWRC CompactWRC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olivier577 View Post
Hi I'm about to open my 2002 original FSU also, to repair it or at least to try ...
for the 1st mosfet I was thinking it was the switch from 0v to -motor and the 2nd mosfet the switch from +12V to +motor

Do you know what are the 2 big bridges on the board ?
It´s not possible because emisor pins and colector pins of the mosfets are connected among themselves.

The configuration you mentioned is used in a foward/reverse system whit 4 transistors in "H" but it will works bad whit PWM exits because desynch between transistors.

I think the bridges are only conections betweens pins over the PCB tracks (probably for a bad initial desing)
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