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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2008, 02:54 PM
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ztom ztom is offline
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Location: Thousand Oaks CA
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 891
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
rough idle, rough acceleration, no power etc

Thought I'd write the issues and solutions to recent car problem I had..

Here is my story, hopefully done now. key words: o2, fuel filter, maf, cps, idle, lumpy acceleration, no power, CEL, check engine light.

>For long time, no noticeable issue but for awhile in the morning it didnít hit on all cylinders for about first half min
>Then one day CEL came on. OBDII code was o2 pre-cat bank 2 (cyl 4,5,6), and paid $400 (200/200 pt/lbr) to replace. I think came on at 3100 tach and 80mph. Running lean (says codes also no backfires out exhaust)
>Next morning ok start up but next start up, would crank but no ignition, tow back to shop!
>Next morning shop starts car, no issue!? OBDII showed neg STFT short term fuel trims B2 but no clear indication of problem. Press on gas and no/little engine response until throttle reached further down.
>Thinking fuel filter so replaced. Then the car runs but lumpy acceleration with slow rev of engine. Sprayed carb cleaner on boot, looking for vacuum leak (car idle changes if so), but all ok.
>Disconnected MAF and engine ran great, so though MAF bad, so bought salvage yd MAF for $150 and things fine, at first, then CEL. At this point with CEL on, idles fine, and press on throttle and response is lumpy. Again, ran fine if I pulled off the MAF connector.
>Searched the web and found cam (not crank) position sensor cps is often the problem, so followed great instructions from http://benedict.isomedia.com/homes/g...CamSensor.html and replaced in an hour, thereafter CEL went off and car ran great, better than ever!
>but then CEL went on and acceleration lumpy, also no power. Also on rev down out of gear the tack would sometimes go to zero and stall the engine. As a test, disconnected the CPS and engine would not start (just cranks), so cps is working.
>Then sprayed the MAF with carb cleaner and it was an instant fix - car runs great with everything connected, lots of acceleration! Also for good measure used contact cleaner and cleaned the socket/pins of connectors for CPS, MAF, VANOS solenoid, and others I could easily get to. I wonder in particular if the MAF connector looked oxidized and needed cleaning. Got the CEL reset, codes stored were mostly bank 2, maybe from before spraying the MAF. Drove, parked, restarted, drove, no CEL light. May not be the end but hopeful.
>BTW from forum others have said my new CPS could have been bad out of the box, but apparently not and should not jump to that conclusion. My advice, if your car is over 100K, change the CPS if not done already, relatively easy and cheap, and seems it does fail.

>In the end, I think the CPS was the main problem and the MAF contributed. O2 got messed up as consequence. If I could do it again I'd spray the MAF (easy, $0), spray boot with carb cleaner to look for vac leaks (easy, $0), then replace the CPS before replacing the maf. If replacing the maf, I think the salvage yd was an ok route. I don't think the issue was the coil, we'll see.

>As an aside, if I coast to a stop when not in gear, the fuel consumption meter dips just as it goes to a stop then pops back. I donít recall seeing that before. Doesnít seem an issue though.
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2008, 11:29 PM
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ztom ztom is offline
I gotta have more cowbell
Location: Thousand Oaks CA
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 891
Mein Auto: 1997 528i
Replaced the ccv tonight ($110), worked out fine and didn't need to remove the intake manifold per http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...tor+fixed+pics. Saw a thread saying this is why there was white smoke coming out exhaust when cold the morning, hopefully also solves problems with p0154 (o2 bank2 no activity) p0173 (stft trim) and p1189 (fuel metering) codes. Had to resent CEL couple times and hoping this is just adjustment period for car. Meanwhile ccv replacement made a BIG improvement in performance, so much so that I would recommend anyone replace the ccv as preventative at 100K, along with the cps and fuel filter. I changed the MAF and had to clean it (carb cleaner seems to work although a thread says use maf cleaner because carb cleaner leaves a oil residue). On CCV change I disconnected the hose from the crank case and left it on the CCV as I pulled it out from below the holding bracket. When I pulled off the two hoses (to the carb?) the radiator fluid came out, would have been better to open the radiator cap a little to equalize. My old maf is probably still good, I should try to put it back in to see, easy to do. Overall there's been a lot of parts changed but I think each one was worth it and the car REALLY runs nice. I also thought for awhile that when switching gears, there was a little buck and hesitation, now it's smooth (Manual). One thing I still see that maybe has always been there - when not in gear and coasting to a stop, the fuel consumption meter dips just momentarily when almost at a stop, don't know what it means.
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  #3  
Old 01-15-2009, 03:46 PM
refatb refatb is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i
i' am having the same problem on my 1997 528i Automatic, it has 169k Miles.....the car idles rough and sluggish acceleration, when i give it gas the whole car vibrates alot and doesnt go anywhere fast...even when iam crusing at 50mph the car still vibrates, it only stops vibrating when i take my foot off the gas. The car doesnt want to go more than 50mph even with the pedal to the floor and vibrating like crazy, and car stalls when ever i come to a red light, My MPH needle on the speedometer also doesnt work only RPM and Engine temp and Gas meter works...i cleaned the MAF with CRC Maf Cleaner, i cleaned the ICV (Idle Control Valve) with throttle body cleaner...when i took the throttle body off i found that there's oil in the intake manifold. i took off the hose from the CCV that connects next to the Vanos selinoid, and the car idles worse and stalls. I am thinking that i need to replace the CCV(Crank Ventilation Valve), CPS(Cam Position Sensor), Fuel Filter, Speed Sensor in Rear Wheels, O2 Sensors, and change all Intake Manifold Gaskets. I recently Changed the Thermostat and waterpump for car overheating.
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  #4  
Old 01-15-2009, 05:05 PM
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lild lild is offline
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Mein Auto: 97' 528i, 06 ninja
if your getting the o2 no activity code, it probly will be back, hope not. i went through the same mess. i found out that my maf went bad and cause the o2's to go bad. even the new o2's i put in. so put reman maf, all is good. i still had a rough idle on a cold start. but i replaced the pcv, cps (cam) cleaned the ccv, and replace a cat. and had to for the thrid time put in new plugs. what a diff.
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  #5  
Old 01-15-2009, 05:12 PM
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lild lild is offline
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oh and the fuel meter dipping does that because the car is engine braking. basically the motor will help slow down the car when in gear.
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  #6  
Old 01-16-2009, 04:05 AM
dramuta dramuta is offline
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Location: Torquay, Australia
 
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Mein Auto: 528i
Had same issue on my 98 528i. Rough idle on cold start then one day it just would not start. Replaced the MAF and car started but the rough idle remained at startup. De-carbed the throttle body and ICV, good for a day then by the second day rough idle again. Plugs are new but checked them anyway and they were wet. Took out the injectors and took them for test to see if there was a leak. No leak and injectors are fine. Checked fuel pressure and all is ok as well. Once engine is running and I switch the ignition off and restart it starts and runs like a dream. If I have time this weekend I might remove the ICV and give it a good clean.
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2009, 04:54 PM
refatb refatb is offline
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Mein Auto: 1998 528i
Dramuta, change the CCV (Crank Case Vent Valve), i Changed the Intake CPS(cam shaft position sensor), i cleaned the ICV( Idle Control Valve) and Cleaned the MAF, and i replaced the CCV (Crank Vent Valve) and the Hose to the Valve Cover and i still have rough Idle and Sluggish acceleration, when i press the gas pedal and the RPM goes over 2000RPM the whole car shudders and shakes and no acceleration. The CPS sensor and the CCV valve + Hose cost me $298 from Dealer. I dont know what i should do next? Spark plugs? Coils? Fuel Pressure Regulator? Fuel Pump?
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  #8  
Old 02-17-2009, 06:19 PM
moesonex moesonex is offline
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Location: CT
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 59
Mein Auto: 2000 540i Sport
Desperatly need help Carsoft code screwup

I installed my Carsoft software today and I ran a full diagnostics on my 2000 540i. It came up with a few errors and I decided to erase them all. Now my car is running very rough and when I press the gas peddle, the RPM's do not go up and my car wil not move...Can anyone help? Did I rally screw this car up?
Error codes erased
-DME/DDE 141 not defined
-Single diagnostic inst. Cluster 136, 190, 191 all "not defined
-ZKE/ZVM 1 step 1 and interval are on at the same time, 1 relay for the power windows passenger-side defect, 12 power sunroof distance and time control, 3 relay for the power sunroof defect
-Airco 1 temperature selector wheel, right

These are all the errors and now I have erased them all. I also read the DME/ME coding but I did not write anything..just read it.

PLEASE HELP
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  #9  
Old 11-12-2009, 12:35 AM
artisthand artisthand is offline
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Location: California
 
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Mein Auto: BMW E60
try this it's easy to do only 5 minutes and solved all your rough idle and check engine light problems on your (2000-2009) later or newer yes! all BMW E60, X3, X5, 325i,330i,335i,525i,528i,530i,535i,... check out the manifold adjuster Google this up.

That appears to have been the problem the whole time. This is what caused the check engine light and O2 sensor fault and misfire codes. listed below are the codes that are caused by a broken Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit!!!

Ignore these codes after changing your broken or damage Intake Manifold Runner Valve/adjuster Unit these codes will be gone.

P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean

P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1

P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3

P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4

P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5

P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6


The adjuster's part description on www.ecstuning.com
Air adjustment unit controls the path of the air in the intake manifold, allowing either a shorter or longer runner length. A common source of trouble causing low RPM sluggishness and accompanied by a clicking sound from the engine bay. The exact symptoms.

Location on driver's side. I already removed the two T40 bolts (upper right and lower middle.) Then simply pull the adjuster unit straight back out towards you. ( 5 minutes)
After removing the manifold adjuster you can also clean your idle control valve (ICV). It's easy to remove the ICV 12 minutes job and clean it with the Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner!!!








I can feel the difference in the acceleration and there's no slight hesitation or engine rough idle and after clearing the check engine light it will not come back on!!!
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  #10  
Old 11-12-2009, 03:50 PM
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lild lild is offline
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Mein Auto: 97' 528i, 06 ninja
ok you don't have to post this any more, these are not on the early e39's.
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  #11  
Old 07-20-2012, 10:20 AM
Mudnyrey Mudnyrey is offline
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Location: Beaverton, OR
 
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Mein Auto: X5 3.0i
I had the same issue! I even had my intake and exhaust smoked for possible vacuum leaks as well, No Issue. Replaced the DISA Unit and my idle improved and I have a noticeable difference of performance and response.

Very Helpful.. Great Post!
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  #12  
Old 11-15-2013, 11:21 PM
silvercoota silvercoota is offline
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Location: QLD Australia
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Mein Auto: 2003 BMW 525i E39
Hi All.
I have a 2003 E39 M54 525i Automatic

My problem started 4 days ago. Started in the morning, idle was a little rough, slight jumpiness and hesitation reversing out of car port. Put in drive and drove off noticing slight hesitation from 900-1400 RPM. After gear change (auto) problem went away and all was sweet. Next day another slightly rough idle on start, and same slight issue on acceleration from 900-1400RPM then problem went away until stopped at lights, and then taking off again, getting same issue from 900-1400RPM then all smooth. Yesterday, Started engine, seemed to run fine, no hesitation at all, all seemed to be going well. Thought maybe i just had some crap in my fuel. When i was to leave work at the end of the day, i started the engine, idle was quite a lot rougher, and very jerky in reverse, then the usual jerking and hesitation through 900-1400RM BUT this time the engine vibration and very rough running continued all the way through to 5th gear (Auto) and continued to run very rough in cruise and when i stopped at the traffic light car would idle very rough, whole car shaking, and RPM dropping to around 400-500. But didn't stall. It was a scary and painful drive home (16Miles) I parked it up and now i am freaking out!!! I have had this car for 3 years and it has been a dream, service every 5000 Kilometers. I live in Queensland Australia and our climate has just changed from warm and dry to warm and humid, is this related?? What is the problem? Mechanic said to spray carburettor cleaner on the throttle body, but i don't know how, and he can't look at it for another 3 day's (BMW Specialist)
I have a 2003 525i M54 with 177,000 Kilometers. Please help!!!! Im so freaking scared it may be a cracked head. No white smoke, haven't lost coolant (i think) it only took about 100ml in the expansion tank. Oil looks fine, no sludge. AND i am not getting ANY warning lights or codes at all!!!
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  #13  
Old 07-02-2016, 04:04 AM
Theador Theador is offline
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Location: Henley on Thames
 
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Mein Auto: BMW e91 Touring M-Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by silvercoota View Post
Hi All.
I have a 2003 E39 M54 525i Automatic

My problem started 4 days ago. Started in the morning, idle was a little rough, slight jumpiness and hesitation reversing out of car port. Put in drive and drove off noticing slight hesitation from 900-1400 RPM. After gear change (auto) problem went away and all was sweet. Next day another slightly rough idle on start, and same slight issue on acceleration from 900-1400RPM then problem went away until stopped at lights, and then taking off again, getting same issue from 900-1400RPM then all smooth. Yesterday, Started engine, seemed to run fine, no hesitation at all, all seemed to be going well. Thought maybe i just had some crap in my fuel. When i was to leave work at the end of the day, i started the engine, idle was quite a lot rougher, and very jerky in reverse, then the usual jerking and hesitation through 900-1400RM BUT this time the engine vibration and very rough running continued all the way through to 5th gear (Auto) and continued to run very rough in cruise and when i stopped at the traffic light car would idle very rough, whole car shaking, and RPM dropping to around 400-500. But didn't stall. It was a scary and painful drive home (16Miles) I parked it up and now i am freaking out!!! I have had this car for 3 years and it has been a dream, service every 5000 Kilometers. I live in Queensland Australia and our climate has just changed from warm and dry to warm and humid, is this related?? What is the problem? Mechanic said to spray carburettor cleaner on the throttle body, but i don't know how, and he can't look at it for another 3 day's (BMW Specialist)
I have a 2003 525i M54 with 177,000 Kilometers. Please help!!!! Im so freaking scared it may be a cracked head. No white smoke, haven't lost coolant (i think) it only took about 100ml in the expansion tank. Oil looks fine, no sludge. AND i am not getting ANY warning lights or codes at all!!!
I've read something about finding a bit of open road, leave the car in 4th, take it up to about 4000rpm and drive like that for 20minutes. Do it a few times and it often dislodges enough crap in the engine and cats to get rid of a lot of these rough running problems. It's surely worth a try. I'm in the same boat and am going to try it next week
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  #14  
Old 07-02-2016, 12:58 PM
MKJS MKJS is offline
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Location: Texas
 
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Posts: 2,290
Mein Auto: '99 540i
Wouldn't spray carb cleaner on the maf, I think they need a special maf cleaner.

Would get a code reader and read what ever fault codes are present to see what the problems are.

Jim
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2016, 03:28 PM
mpapillon mpapillon is offline
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Location: United States
 
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Mein Auto: '02 525i
Newbie here.

So I bought an '02 525i from a friend's fiance back in early March.
There have been quite a few times here and there that the car would just start shaking badly, it would accelerate fine it would just shake badly but cutting it off and cranking it again would make it stop.
Then it progressed to where it would shake badly and acted like it couldn't accelerate. Again, cutting it off then re-cranking caused it to 'act right' again.
(It has always been shaky above 70 no matter what though, so I tried not to ever go above 70.)

The other day though, it started shaking worse than it ever has upon cranking and then cut off after a few seconds. I re-cranked it, same thing.
I was able to drive it around the block with it only cutting off once (I'm a female who doesn't know anything about engines, etc. so I'm hoping I didn't do it any damage there?) but the shaking was definitely a lot worse.

I parked it and haven't driven it since.

I'm either going to take her to a mechanic or see if my bf knows what's wrong with her and can fix her.

I'm just hoping someone here maybe has some BMW expertise here who can tell me what this sounds like it might be because I'm really hoping not to be taken advantage of by a BMW mechanic who knows that I don't know jack about it.


Thanks in advance!
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  #16  
Old 07-25-2016, 03:37 PM
bigmphan bigmphan is offline
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Location: NNJ
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 51
Mein Auto: E39 & E36
It's gotta be throwing CHECK ENGINE codes.
Find out what they are.

Fuel pump?
Cam position sensor?
Find out.
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  #17  
Old 07-25-2016, 05:31 PM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Location: Louisiana
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,022
Mein Auto: 1999 5281 5 sp msport
lots here who can help out..more info/codes needed. are you getting any dash malfunction lights? you might want to start your own thread vs tagging on to an old one.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.

Last edited by mattmar1; 07-25-2016 at 05:34 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-25-2016, 06:48 PM
mpapillon mpapillon is offline
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Mein Auto: '02 525i
Sorry. I didn't want to get on anyone's bad side by starting a thread about an issue I'm having that someone already posted about.
But I'll go ahead and find out what codes she's throwing and start a thread tomorrow.

Thanks for replying.
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  #19  
Old 07-26-2016, 08:18 AM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Location: Louisiana
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
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Mein Auto: 1999 5281 5 sp msport
you wouldnt get on anyones bad side for starting anew...it makes it easier to separate the subjects
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.
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