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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-07-2008, 11:21 AM
NFS NFS is offline
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Mein Auto: E39 540I
Anyone has experience with Karlyn Control Arms?

I need to replace my lower front control arms due to a shimmy problem. I saw autohausaz has the the Karlyn control arm for $37 each while Lemfoerder is $160 each. I know I'll probably go with Lemfoerder even with the much higher price. You get what you pay! Right? But I would like to know if anyone has any experience with Karlyn's products. Karlyn's website claims their products are produced in th USA.
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  #2  
Old 10-09-2008, 12:51 AM
crossfire_M5 crossfire_M5 is offline
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i want to know.. to because we are talking about savings more than 60 % of the money in this brand Karlyn is reliable?
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  #3  
Old 10-09-2008, 09:02 AM
oembimmerparts oembimmerparts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crossfire_M5 View Post
i want to know.. to because we are talking about savings more than 60 % of the money in this brand Karlyn is reliable?
Some here have used them not sure of the outcome, Do note that many of Karlyns parts are not made in the USA, Not sure about there suspension parts.
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2008, 10:10 AM
Waveho Waveho is offline
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I installed Karlyn control arms. They work fine. Almost 15k miles since installation. I inspected them carefully before having them installed, and the quality seemed very good, including the attached bushings. Replacing my lower control arms with these, and the upper control arm bushings, solved my "thunking" when hitting any driveway lip and solved vibrations and steering wheel wobbling as well.
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  #5  
Old 10-09-2008, 10:15 AM
tsieber tsieber is offline
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I had them also aon my wagon nd after a year, they failed. The boots the ball joints
already split. Bite the bullet and get the Lemforder. These aren't fun doing it twice.

Tony
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2008, 10:24 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I bought the "Karlyn STI" OUTER Tierods for my 98 Volvo V70, never installed it, I returned it as FCP mis-represented the fact.

The whole thread that I posted on Volvo Forum is here:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index...howtopic=85345

The bottom line is that Karlyn STI makes their parts and label them:
"The Art of German Engineering"
(Don't you love it when people play with the English language!)

They can come from anywhere on the globe. In my case of the 98 Volvo V70, the tie rods came from Taiwan.

If I were you, I'd vote for Lemforder. The economy is not doing good, so buy Lemforder to help the economy....ROFL....
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2008, 10:43 AM
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ChileBeem ChileBeem is offline
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for those who have done the whole top and bottom set, on a 540, how long did it take? I get the "thunking when hitting a driveway lip" (great description BTW!) but no other symptoms, the car otherwise runs great. I have a great set of hand tools, and am very capable, but still a driveway mechanic. 1 day? special tools needed?

I am trying to justify doing the job. Thanks.
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2008, 11:08 AM
franka franka is offline
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The answer is in the price. Don't let it turn your head, instead use your head.
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  #9  
Old 10-09-2008, 11:20 AM
NFS NFS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChileBeem View Post
for those who have done the whole top and bottom set, on a 540, how long did it take? I get the "thunking when hitting a driveway lip" (great description BTW!) but no other symptoms, the car otherwise runs great. I have a great set of hand tools, and am very capable, but still a driveway mechanic. 1 day? special tools needed?

I am trying to justify doing the job. Thanks.
The hardest part is separating the balljoints. You'll need a good balljoint separator. I bought the aftermarket balljoint separator tool from ebay and it was able to separate my balljoints. I had to pay an Indy shop to replace them.
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2008, 01:28 PM
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antgli antgli is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFS View Post
The hardest part is separating the balljoints. You'll need a good balljoint separator. I bought the aftermarket balljoint separator tool from ebay and it was able to separate my balljoints. I had to pay an Indy shop to replace them.
Yup, separating the ball joints were a PITA. I used a pickled fork attachment on my air gun to remove the control arm ball joints and the ball joint tool removal tool for the Thrust arm ball joints. The bolts attached to the Thrust arms (bushing end) was a PITA too. You have to move the sway bar bracket to get better access to the bolts. You also have to tighten these bolts when the suspension is under load. All in all, not a terribly hard job, just take your time.
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  #11  
Old 10-09-2008, 10:02 PM
NFS NFS is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NFS View Post
The hardest part is separating the balljoints. You'll need a good balljoint separator. I bought the aftermarket balljoint separator tool from ebay and it was able to separate my balljoints. I had to pay an Indy shop to replace them.
I meant to say I was not able to separate the balljoints with the tools.
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2008, 11:20 PM
crossfire_M5 crossfire_M5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waveho View Post
I installed Karlyn control arms. They work fine. Almost 15k miles since installation. I inspected them carefully before having them installed, and the quality seemed very good, including the attached bushings. Replacing my lower control arms with these, and the upper control arm bushings, solved my "thunking" when hitting any driveway lip and solved vibrations and steering wheel wobbling as well.
ohhh ok.. i asked the question because because u know the economy is not so well for many of us but this is a very confuse topic because it seems to work with you but for some people they had been a pain in the ass and had to be replace at 10k maybe some 15k ..


i would like to see more opinons

Btw..

what about those ebay suspencion kits? are they reliable or it seems ok and they said they are German made sow what to you guys had to say about this?

CHECK THIS OUT IT SEEMS .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-S...mZ310075594327
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  #13  
Old 10-10-2008, 05:35 AM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
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NFS:

I installed the thrust and upper control arms (and sway bar links) from Karlyn on my touring<6,000 miles ago. I bought them from FCP Groton where I have purchased Volvo parts before with success and received quality parts.


The F sway bar links failed within 3,000 miles. The bushings in the Karlyn thrust arms (fluid filled) have failed already. The ball joints on the thrust and control arms are still tight.

I've replaced the F sway bar links with BMW OEM (dealer) and the thrust arm bushings with Powerflex poly ones (part 510 with metal washers) a week ago. My PF bushings required some "fitment" to fit between the retaining ears on the subframe. (writing up a DIY on my experience).

I took a gamble on the Karlyn parts and they didn't hold up. I did the install myself and properly weighted the car down / on the ground before final torqing when I originally installed the Karlyn parts. Followed instructions to the book using TIS, Bentley and experience of doing this for years.

The only variable is that I installed Koni yelloe SA sport dampers (front) matched with my OEM sport springs after I did the Karlyn control arm install. I have seen this on my track cars ... the increased dampening transfers load to the softest part of the suspension system ... in this case the less than sturdy thrust arm bushings. I believe my Karlyn thrust arm bushing failure was a combination of increasing stiffness on other part of the suspension system and a less than well made bushing.

YMMV and hope this helps.
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  #14  
Old 10-11-2008, 01:45 AM
crossfire_M5 crossfire_M5 is offline
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what about the MAYLE Brand they said German MADe?

Suspencion kits?
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  #15  
Old 10-24-2008, 11:30 PM
crossfire_M5 crossfire_M5 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crossfire_M5 View Post
what about the MAYLE Brand from ebay? they said German MADe?

and vines to r these good?

Suspencion kits?



Bump
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  #16  
Old 10-25-2008, 12:07 AM
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tee-dub tee-dub is offline
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can anybody post the torque settings for these parts on a 540i?
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  #17  
Old 10-25-2008, 07:33 AM
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cpatstone cpatstone is offline
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Mein Auto: 528it, 5M, born 7/2000
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jase007 View Post
NFS:

I installed the thrust and upper control arms (and sway bar links) from Karlyn on my touring<6,000 miles ago. I bought them from FCP Groton where I have purchased Volvo parts before with success and received quality parts.


The F sway bar links failed within 3,000 miles. The bushings in the Karlyn thrust arms (fluid filled) have failed already. The ball joints on the thrust and control arms are still tight.

I've replaced the F sway bar links with BMW OEM (dealer) and the thrust arm bushings with Powerflex poly ones (part 510 with metal washers) a week ago. My PF bushings required some "fitment" to fit between the retaining ears on the subframe. (writing up a DIY on my experience).

I took a gamble on the Karlyn parts and they didn't hold up. I did the install myself and properly weighted the car down / on the ground before final torqing when I originally installed the Karlyn parts. Followed instructions to the book using TIS, Bentley and experience of doing this for years.

The only variable is that I installed Koni yelloe SA sport dampers (front) matched with my OEM sport springs after I did the Karlyn control arm install. I have seen this on my track cars ... the increased dampening transfers load to the softest part of the suspension system ... in this case the less than sturdy thrust arm bushings. I believe my Karlyn thrust arm bushing failure was a combination of increasing stiffness on other part of the suspension system and a less than well made bushing.

YMMV and hope this helps.
agree on all points, except my FCP groton kit failed in the same way with stock struts / springs.
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  #18  
Old 04-16-2013, 02:36 AM
bmw2qnj2le bmw2qnj2le is offline
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Question quality traction struts at reasonable cost

Hi everybody, It is definitely my 2000 740i shimmy at 45 MPH when breaking is from the damaged bushings in the traction struts (lower control arms - curved shape). Carefully, I inspected my steering and suspension system and found the evidence of the faulty pieces causing the shimmy. I do some research and the price varies a lot from mid $30 (Karlyn) to $140 (Lemfoerder) ea. I would like to ask for your collective past experiences of these product manufacturers. I would like to stay with the quality at reasonable cost because I would like to keep my car for long time. It is a very nice car to drive. In return, I will post the results of my experience/findings of the products & manufacturers for future reference for our mutual benefits of all BMW enthusiasts. Your comments/recommendations are greatly appreciated in advance.
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  #19  
Old 04-16-2013, 05:38 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw2qnj2le View Post
Hi everybody, It is definitely my 2000 740i shimmy at 45 MPH when breaking is from the damaged bushings in the traction struts (lower control arms - curved shape). Carefully, I inspected my steering and suspension system and found the evidence of the faulty pieces causing the shimmy. I do some research and the price varies a lot from mid $30 (Karlyn) to $140 (Lemfoerder) ea. I would like to ask for your collective past experiences of these product manufacturers. I would like to stay with the quality at reasonable cost because I would like to keep my car for long time. It is a very nice car to drive. In return, I will post the results of my experience/findings of the products & manufacturers for future reference for our mutual benefits of all BMW enthusiasts. Your comments/recommendations are greatly appreciated in advance.
You're in the wrong forum but I guess the feedback is applicable either way. If you intend to keep driving your car indefinitely, go with Lemforder. They last longer. If you DIY, go with Lemforder, as you really don't want to repeat this job again soon. Likewise, if you pay an indy to do this, go with Lemforder as you don't want to pay them AGAIN to redo this job. But if you are planning to sell your car soon, save the money and put in Karlyn and dump the car. I have almost 40K on a complete Lemforder front end replacement (including Meyle HD thrust arm bushings). They are still fine. Bottom line, there are very few examples of premature failure of a Lemforder component. There are many examples of premature failure of Karyn & Meyle (although the track record of their newer HD line is still incomplete) components. Just do a search for more info.
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  #20  
Old 04-18-2013, 01:49 AM
bmw2qnj2le bmw2qnj2le is offline
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Thanks Fudman for your advice. Is OEM BimmerParts a reputable online vendor? I found the Control Arms made by Meyle HD, Lemforder, TRW and OEM. Their prices are with 30 USD of each other. When it says OEM, does it mean genuine BMW. and who is the actual manufacturer of these OEM BMW parts. Your inputs are greatly appreciated.
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  #21  
Old 04-18-2013, 04:39 AM
helpmyfive helpmyfive is offline
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I put all four control and thrust on within a matter of months. They held up about a year. Go to Harbor Freight and get the ball joint tool. It's like a scissor or jack that you just put in place and turn a bolt. POP they come off in about a minute. A good thwack with a sledge to the tool if they are stubborn. I can do an arm in about 20 mins or less. The cost of the high end parts just wasn't justified for me. I was diagnosing a clunk and kept throwing money at it. Now, less than $200 later, it's almost gone. I only have to swap the sway bar bushings in the sub frame. At 271,000 and drinking every fluid I may just let her ride!

Bottom line: Keeping the car for years to come, do the good stuff. Driving an old car for a while then getting a better one, do the cheap route.

P.S. I just drove 3,300 miles to Florida and back with a smooth and comfortable ride. There is no difference from the cheap to the great. It's only the life of the parts.
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  #22  
Old 04-18-2013, 05:40 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw2qnj2le View Post
Thanks Fudman for your advice. Is OEM BimmerParts a reputable online vendor? I found the Control Arms made by Meyle HD, Lemforder, TRW and OEM. Their prices are with 30 USD of each other. When it says OEM, does it mean genuine BMW. and who is the actual manufacturer of these OEM BMW parts. Your inputs are greatly appreciated.
I have previously bought parts from OEM Bimmerparts and have had no issues. Lemforder is the OE on the e39. My understanding is that TRW is the same, jusrt branded differently. Previous Meyle suspension parts had sketchy durability but the newer HD line has been a bit better. Getting the Meyle HD rubber bushing pre-mounted on the thrust arm is highly recommended. This eliminates bushing leaking as a failure mode with minimal degradation to ride quality. These are only available from EAC Euro parts.
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  #23  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:35 AM
Dackelone Dackelone is offline
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Personally I would only use thrust rods bought from a BMW dealer or Lemforder (aftermarket OE ones). The Meyle stuff (OEM)just doesn't last very long. I replaced my Meyle thrust rods with Lemforder ones. The Meyle ones were less than a year old. In the end... I still had that brake shimmy from the thrust rods inner bushings. So a few months later I had my local BMW Zentrum install OE BMW inner thrust rod bushings for a total of 170 euros parts(60 euros) & labor(110 euros). Best 170 euros I ever spent! I probably should have just bought M5 inner thrust rod bushings.
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  #24  
Old 04-18-2013, 08:45 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackelone View Post
Personally I would only use thrust rods bought from a BMW dealer or Lemforder (aftermarket OE ones). The Meyle stuff (OEM)just doesn't last very long. I replaced my Meyle thrust rods with Lemforder ones. The Meyle ones were less than a year old. In the end... I still had that brake shimmy from the thrust rods inner bushings. So a few months later I had my local BMW Zentrum install OE BMW inner thrust rod bushings for a total of 170 euros parts(60 euros) & labor(110 euros). Best 170 euros I ever spent! I probably should have just bought M5 inner thrust rod bushings.
I would agree on the first statement (buy Lemforder thrust arms only) as the durability of the Lemforder ball joint is superior to other aftermarket brands. However, the liquid filled bushings that come standard on the Lemforder are the cause of the dreaded shimmy. When the bushing leaks, the shimmy occurs. Meyle makes a solid rubber bushing on their HD line. EAC Euro Parts offers their Lemforder thrust arms with the original liquid filled bushing removed and replaced with the Meyle HD rubber bushing. This gives you maximum durability. I would avoid any liquid filled bushing.
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  #25  
Old 04-18-2013, 09:07 AM
Fir3n5m0ke Fir3n5m0ke is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
EAC Euro Parts offers their Lemforder thrust arms with the original liquid filled bushing removed and replaced with the Meyle HD rubber bushing. This gives you maximum durability. I would avoid any liquid filled bushing.
Is this standard from EACeuro or do you need to request the Meyle HD bushings? I'm looking at the website/part now and I can't get a description on the part other than a picture and manufacturer. I was actually building my suspension overhaul list last night and the price on the thrust arms is practically identical from site to site for anyone who is curious. I want the Meyle HD bushings regardless of where I order but I would like them preset, like you mentioned, if possible.

For the guy above who mentioned getting the m5 thrust arms....The part is the same for the 540i and the m5. Therefore, if you have the 540i you have the m5 thrust arms.
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