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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-14-2008, 01:39 PM
kennycoder kennycoder is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 520i (e39 1998/06)
Post [DIY] Intake Manifold DIY for M52 engine.

Phew. Damn I'm tired. Start time: 13:00. End time: 19:30.
Well my car was giving me post cat O2 codes, bad idle, etc..

OK lets get started. First of all your engine has to be COLD. Leave it in the garage for like 6 hours. Then remove the cap from your tank due to gases expansion. We will be disconnecting fuel lines. DON'T smoke around the car. Disconnect the battery.

Tools:


Start by removing air filter housing, MAF (don't forget to disconnect it) and rubber boot that connects MAF to throttle body. Disconnect the hose that is plugged to throttle body rubber boot.

Unplug tank vent valve connector and hoses that are attached to it.




Throttle body time:










Now, this blue dots indicate where two bolts are located (accessed from below) that secure the intake manifold in the front. I removed the CCV and ICV because it was the right time to change them. To do that I've removed all bolts marked with orange circles. Unplugged all hoses from CCV and ICV. They come off pretty easily. For ICV you need to make some pression downward. For CCV, push it to the front and it will come off.



Well until now everything was pretty easy. Murphy law loves me.. observe:


Yeah right. This red asterix means that when I tried to unscrew this bolt, eventually I broke whole ****ing plastic support. It secures positive cable that comes from alternator and goes i have no fricking idea where. Anyways don't force it! If it wont come off, just **** it. Unplug the cable from the alternator and there is another cable on the opposite side:


Now its time to disconnect fuel lines. Pretty easy. Just press a piece of plastic down and pull the line away. It will come off pretty easy, just be careful with gasoline, you will loose some eventually but it will stop the flow in 5 secs or so.




OK now the most annoying part, and i'll explain why (maybe that's because I'm a dick, but who knows). First 6 nuts come of without any trouble (BE CAREFUL!! DON'T LET THEM FALL!. I was lucky as **** to find the second one that fell). Last NUT, unaccessible, at least on my engine. Or you remove the injectors and all the wiring or use an open-end wrench (nš 11 if I'm not mistaken). I used open-end wrench to remove it.


Pull it out slowly.


Check your gaskets... intake and throttle body. Use Vaseline or something like that when putting back. Be careful and to let anything fall into the holes. Clean manifold <-> engine contact zone with your credit card or something plastic (don't use metal, you don't want to damage that zone).
That's pretty much it. To put it all together.. just reverse the process. Clean your ICV btw and inspect all hoses for holes/cracks. Torque value for M8 screw/nut that connects intake with engine (7 of them) is 22Nm.





Once you are done, get a beer or two and relax. This is back killing job :|
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  #2  
Old 10-14-2008, 02:49 PM
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Fudman Fudman is online now
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Nice DIY. You've earned a beer or three!
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  #3  
Old 10-14-2008, 07:57 PM
kapao818 kapao818 is offline
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fuk just give him a 12 pack. nice DIY
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  #4  
Old 10-14-2008, 11:29 PM
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How did you manage to pull up the intake past the firewall? I struggled with this. The intake is blocked and rubs against the firwall. I gave up.
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  #5  
Old 10-15-2008, 02:56 AM
kennycoder kennycoder is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 520i (e39 1998/06)
I lifted it a little bit, then pulled a frontal part up a bit more and it came off. Actually I had more trouble with firewall when was installing it back.
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  #6  
Old 10-15-2008, 10:10 AM
franka franka is offline
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What is or was the objective of removing the item?
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2008, 02:38 AM
Jo@EuroDyne Jo@EuroDyne is offline
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thanks for the info! =) this is bookmarked!
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2008, 09:25 AM
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I dont get it. You're just replacing hoses, a valve, and cleaning some gaskets? Whats the point of this? More info!
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2008, 09:39 AM
kennycoder kennycoder is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 520i (e39 1998/06)
I had lots of problems related to vacuum leak. And the only thing left was to change the gaskets, no clean them.
Gaskets replaced:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...92&hg=11&fg=40
Nš 2, 4 and 20 (this one wasn't necessary cause it was ok, but I've changed it anyway).

After this change my idle became completely normal, car much more responsive, better mpg.
Even engine sounds a bit different.
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  #10  
Old 12-13-2008, 06:51 PM
manolofuentes manolofuentes is offline
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On your picture with the green dots you can see the fuel rail and log black box that houses cables fo the connections of the fuel injectors, these cables come bundled into this black box I believe from the e-box (ECM), I cant seem to pull away the manifold because of this cables, how do I unplug them from the ECM or there is a way to remove that black box and puting it aside to remove the manifold?
Thanks!
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  #11  
Old 12-13-2008, 06:52 PM
manolofuentes manolofuentes is offline
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Last cables to remove manifold

On your picture with the green dots you can see the fuel rail and log black box that houses cables fo the connections of the fuel injectors, these cables come bundled into this black box I believe from the e-box (ECM), I cant seem to pull away the manifold because of this cables, how do I unplug them from the ECM or there is a way to remove that black box and puting it aside to remove the manifold?
Thanks!
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  #12  
Old 12-14-2008, 05:34 PM
kennycoder kennycoder is offline
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Manifold comes out without the fuel rail / cable box. I guess they are not even connected. I was trying to pull the fuel rail out so I could access the last hex nut but I couldn't accomplish it without forcing the fuel injectors. As I don't know how they are mounted, I just let them stay and used an open end wrench to access the last bold. Unfortunately when assembling everything back, I couldn't tighten the last bold with correct specs (torx wrench just wont fit there ) If anyone can help me with this issue, I would appreciate because I have to take manifold out again. IAT wiring is damaged.. short circuit
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2008, 09:01 AM
manolofuentes manolofuentes is offline
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I followed Bentley manual instructions to remove the engine

It suggest to remove the cowl or plastic part behind the engine, you can do this very easy by removing the plastic parts that hold both air filters on the rear of the engine, then remove the tubing going into the cabin counter clock wise, then remove the plastic line on top of the edge, then remove the plastic cowl, and there you have it plenty of room for the last bolt.
I ended up removing the injectors connections using a hook, and then the injectors, fuel rail came out with the manifold, the black box with the connections, stayed inside, my mess is that I did not marked the cables I pulled pretty well, I have a concern precisely with the ones that connect into this long black box.
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2009, 05:05 PM
justlikemusic justlikemusic is offline
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Excellent guide, thankyou. Could anyone tell me where the two pin connector underneath the intake manifold joins to? I remember mine was covered in oil, but there is no two pin plug and lead near there. Also one is on the end of the fuel rail.
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2009, 08:26 AM
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Philboski Philboski is offline
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In one of your pics, you advise using Vaseline to help with assembling something at the throttle body. I would advise against this -- Vaseline eats at rubber, and who knows what else. That's why they tell you it isn't a good lube for activies that require condoms. As odd as it sounds, I use KY jelly, of failing that, some old fasioned spit to get this type of thing to fit.

There was no way this post was ever going to sound like it was just about cars.....
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  #16  
Old 01-12-2009, 11:23 AM
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Adrian H Adrian H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philboski View Post
In one of your pics, you advise using Vaseline to help with assembling something at the throttle body. I would advise against this -- Vaseline eats at rubber, and who knows what else. That's why they tell you it isn't a good lube for activies that require condoms. As odd as it sounds, I use KY jelly, of failing that, some old fasioned spit to get this type of thing to fit.

There was no way this post was ever going to sound like it was just about cars.....

What about some of the Teflon Grease, from Superlube? that stuff's non oring reactive, doesn't cause swelling, and can stand pretty decent temperatures - I used to and still use the "Grease" Form on regulators and things like this - Would it be a decent replacement?
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Originally Posted by taylormiles View Post
Heh. Well, you should know if its a touring. It would have a very large badonkadonk.
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2009, 11:39 AM
franka franka is offline
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Isn't the idea to just hold the pc in place while it is assembled?
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  #18  
Old 01-21-2009, 04:56 PM
leeS leeS is offline
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Question M52-TU variation questions

Hi,

Glad I found this active thread since I am stuck doing an emergency repair on my '99 528it with the m52tu engine.

I actaully have to pull the manifold off in order to get to the (hopefully JUST) leaky o-ring seal for the heater return pipe that is stuffed under the front of the manifold.
(any tips/links from experience with that part would be appreciated).

Anyway, I have the Throttle body out of my engine and most of the wires/hoses undone.
I had to stop because of darkness and COLD outside and also seemed to have a momentary issue with the support mount(s?) on the bottom of the intake manifold.
It looks as if on the TU engine they may have changed from the two simple bolted brackets to possibly having the manifild under the Throttle body resting, and screwed (Torx?) onto one from underneath. So far all the documtation that I see shows the two angle iron brackets like the earlier engine or the v8 which is different.

Has anyone had to deal with this yet, and PLEASE tell me how I can loosen it without a lift. I am stuck in an icy/snowy yard so I have to try and get at it from above. I don't care if it is clunky since I only want to pull the manifold off far enough to change that gasket and get access to the heater retrun pipe mountings under the front of it.

here is a picture of what it looks like.



Thanks,
Lee
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  #19  
Old 01-21-2009, 06:36 PM
kennycoder kennycoder is offline
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@ Philboski: damnit you are right! I've just looked at my "vaselined" gasket and its pretty ruined for 5000 miles.. Spit is a good solution, you can also try if it's water based ;D

@leeS: I'm not sure what mounts you are talking about. More pics please. Actually I'll be taking my manifold out again due to bad wiring from IAT and Tank Vent Valve... I'll redo my DIY with better pics and explanations.
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Old 01-21-2009, 07:32 PM
leeS leeS is offline
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I'll have to try and take a better picture tomorrow.
it was getting dark and this about the only angle you can see in this car.

In mean time I will try to put some lines on this image.
I'll put a red outline of the face of the manifold where the TB mounts and some green ones outlining what seems to be the support plate that it is screwed into.

The Bentley manual has an illustration that appears to be the early m52 that shows two metal braces that bolt the bottom of the intake manifold to the engine block for support. It says you need to unbolt them from the bottom to allow the manifold to be removed (obviosuly after disconnecting the wires, hoses and removing the nuts from the top mounting bolts).

I don't seem to have those brackets on this car but there seems to be the one larger bracket (like a shelf) that is bolted to the engine. from what I can feel it is screwed (no regular hex bolt heads) to the bottom side of the manifold. that part where it is attached to the manifold seems to act like a shelf as well as holding it in place.
I couldn;t see any other brackets.
The manifold defintely will not move unless this/these are undone.

Last edited by leeS; 01-21-2009 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 01-21-2009, 08:08 PM
kennycoder kennycoder is offline
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Try to take a picture of the screws to see if its hex bolt or something else. If your camera is big, try a mobile phone or something that supports macro mode.
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  #22  
Old 01-22-2009, 04:38 PM
leeS leeS is offline
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Ok, further reports from the land of m52tu;

I didn't have a chance to take more pictures but I did get the thing apart and semi-fixed.

The manifold support bracket that is highlighted in my picture is the only one on this engine. I was able to remove the big nut at the base and eventiually remove the manifold with it attached. The bracket is held onto the manifold by two torx head screws (appear to be t25).


A few rude PITA surpirses were mostly my fault and hopefully very temporary.

1. The clips holding the wiring harness to the injetcors are facing down toward the manifold on this engine and are a REAL PITA to deal with since they are almost innaccessible.

2. I should have ordered the heater return pipe instead of just the O-ring seals. The end of it was broken and the old ring was gone. I was able to fit the new O-ring on and with a quick test it seems to hold, but I'll have to get a new pipe and replace it later (hopefully after it warms up).

3. Apparently I forgot to plug something back in when I puit it together. From my fevered and faulty memory and guessing at the symptoms I am certain that I forgot to plug in the engine temp sensor under the manifold near the rear of the engine block.
I first turned the ignition to "on" without cranking the engine so i could fill/bleed the coolant and also check for obvious leaks. so far, so good.
I then started the engine. It really ran bad and the temperature gauge immediately pinned to the hot side (no red light). I turned it off and double checked the wiring plugs into the fuel injectors (they are two very different length sets so can't be mixed up easily) and any hoses or electric plugs that i could see with the manifold and TB in place (none that I could see). I remembered the temp sensor plug. I'm sure I put the fuel hoses on correctly but will nead to double check that
I'll have to dive back in tomorrow and hope that is the only problem. I guess I'll also have a chance to see where those stray manifold retaining nuts that dropped went to.

Lee

Last edited by leeS; 01-22-2009 at 04:41 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-22-2009, 04:42 PM
kennycoder kennycoder is offline
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Engine temp sensor doesn't cause that kind of behavior. My sensor is short circuited (yea fixing that tomorrow) and my car runs pretty ok
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  #24  
Old 01-23-2009, 04:08 PM
leeS leeS is offline
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Took apart the m52tu again, paying attention to anything that was forgotten. The only thing obvious was the engine temp sensor plug.
I put it all back very carefully and it started right up.
Maybe something was loose before that wasn't obvious.

It was actually easier to take apart this time since I already knew what to do.
Everything except for those stupid injector plug retaining clips which I couldn't get back on right.
no room to see or work on them on this setup.

after driving around for a while I did notice that the make-do heater pipe seal was dripping a bit, but a lot better than before.
I'll have to order the pipe, and probably the others down there while I'm at it, and replace them properly later.
At least it should be ok for a while as long as I keep an eye on it.

Oh yes;
I remembered an old trick for dealing with those stupid nuts/bolts that are deep in places you can't reach and don't want to drop.
Take a piece of masking tape and pull it loosely over the top of the socket wrench keeping the tacky side towards the socket..
then take a small dowel, or screwdriver or some such and push it into the socket so it creates a lining on the sides of the socket
You should be able to fit it over the nut/bolt and have it snug enough to stay in place.
You can put the nut inside the socket and then safely put it down that deep dark hole without fear of it dropping out.
You can also use the trick to undo nuts from the same places without them dropping out until they are safely in your hand.

FWIW.
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