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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-14-2008, 03:31 PM
toledotn toledotn is offline
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Unhappy Starter Location

Hello can someone tell me where the starter of 2000 bmw 528i located? Thanks
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2010, 09:53 AM
thomydavid thomydavid is offline
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Looking at the engine (driver side is on your right) the starter in under the manifold on the driver side of the engine block. It's hard to see but look near the firewall and you'll see the red wire going to the front side of the starter. I can take a picture later today or tomorrow and post it for you.
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Old 11-12-2010, 06:16 AM
thomydavid thomydavid is offline
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Directly in the center of the image, can't actually see the starter in this image, look for the thick red wire in this area of your engine compartment.
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  #4  
Old 11-12-2010, 06:17 AM
thomydavid thomydavid is offline
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Deeper shot
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  #5  
Old 11-12-2010, 06:49 AM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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From my '98 528...
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  #6  
Old 11-12-2010, 08:45 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I post info in the DIY subforum.
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  #7  
Old 11-12-2010, 10:02 AM
helpmyfive helpmyfive is offline
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I had no idea where the starter was when I began my transmission replacement. When I had the new trans in and began to rotate the engine (for access to the torque converter bolts) I began to hear a ratcheting sound. Each rotation the sound got louder until the engine seized. Fear sat in until I realized I had removed the bolts holding the hidden starter in. With no bolts it allowed the housing to set on the flywheel causing the sound. Hell of a way to find the bugger.
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  #8  
Old 11-12-2010, 11:01 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I post info in the DIY subforum.
Thanks cn90.

I just added this line to the bestlinks to help the next guy looking for a starter motor DIY and location:
- Starter motor R&R DIY (1) and location (1)

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  #9  
Old 07-25-2011, 07:02 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, a newbie complained he couldn't 'find' any starter motor DIYs, so, today, Takechan and I provided a few dozen (including this one) over here:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Starter replacement
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2012, 10:48 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the cross-linked record, there are some nice pictures of the 540i starter motor here today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > bad starter

__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #11  
Old 06-02-2012, 11:08 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, today I was working on the ICV and dipstick guide tube when I snapped a picture of what I 'think' is the location of the starter in the M54.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2012, 06:25 PM
Steve530 Steve530 is offline
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You're correct.
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2012, 07:26 PM
WamsleyH WamsleyH is offline
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look for the thick red wire in this area of your engine compartment
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2015, 09:41 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the crosslinked record, another potential starter debug thread today...

Quote:
Originally Posted by super g View Post
I pulled into the driveway turned the car off 5 min later I came out to start it and no go The seats,radio and all electric components work fine but the starter does not engage. I checked the connections to the starter (new) and all fuses I could find with no luck any ideas of what to check would be appreciated
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Presumably, the "new" means something was recently replaced.
Why?

As always, understanding the starting system would be the place to start; typing /starter f3 in the bestlinks nets this, which may help in that endeavor:
BMW_E39_Starting_Systems_Starter_Motor_And_Solenoi d_Operation.pdf (357.6 KB, 700 views)

See also:
- Where is the starter motor located (1) & an M52 starter motor DIY (1) (2) & removing the 540i starter motor in one hour (1) & the BMW TIS (1) and an E38 740iL starter motor DIY (1) (2) & how to remove the M52 starter motor without removing the intake manifold (1) (2) & what special tools are needed (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & where is the starter motor relay (1) (2)
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Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #15  
Old 07-01-2015, 12:58 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This thread today has very useful related information:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Car wont start with key just clicks, but starts by jumping starter
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
If the suggestions above don't solve the problem, you might consider high resistance in the heavy gauge cable power circuit from battery to starter.

I'm assuming some points from your description:
1 when you jump start the engine, you are using another battery (perhaps on another car) connected to the jumper post on the engine.
2 without the jumper battery, the click you hear on turning the key to start, is the heavy, loud snap that the starter solenoid makes
3 there are no other symptoms, e.g. battery light in instrument cluster, dim lights, normal cranking speed when jumper starting etc.
4 your mechanic meant that your battery passed a full load test when he said it is OK. Not that it is indicating ~12.65V with car in sleep mode.
5 the mechanic tested starter current to rule out a partially failed winding (to rule out marginal starter with marginal battery resulting in no crank symptom)

And conclude from these that the starter control circuits (including EWS), battery and the starter itself are OK & the problem is that the starter is not getting enough voltage to generate the power needed to turn over the engine.

The attached images show that there are connectors between the battery and starter. If these become corroded, or if the heavy cable running from the battery to starter has been damaged one could see high resistance and a significant voltage drop between the battery and starter when the starter tries to draw the ~200 amps (can't find spec, but typical for 1.8 kW starters) required to turn over the engine. The starter would then have insufficient voltage to start the engine. This is the same effect, although different cause, that others refer to when suggesting you check that the battery terminals are clean & tight on the battery posts.

You could test this hypothesis by measuring voltage at the engine jumper post while someone turns the key to start without a jumper battery. You should see full battery voltage of ~12.6 V with key off and at least ~9V while starter is engaged, better would be ~10V. If voltage is too low & the battery & starter motor are in fact OK, there must be high resistance in the power circuit from battery to starter.

I had thought it possible that the safety disconnect on the +ve battery terminal had triggered. However it seems that feature was implemented in 9/97 & would therefore not be present on your 1997 model year. See attached image showing "Battery safety terminal (as of ..."

Circuit diagrams & operation descriptions of various systems available here.
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/
Quote:
Originally Posted by psgill View Post
Thanks for all your information, mechanic thought same problem was going on checked out battery starter voltage ignition switch etc.... he is puzzled and telling me to take it to the dealer (stealer) Is there any other suggestions before i get taken to the cleaners.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
Based on understanding that:
1 never starts on car battery alone
2 always starts when jumpered with 2nd battery at engine jumper post & ground terminal on strut tower
3 battery terminal are tight and clean to battery posts

Here is a quick and easy DIY check to test battery & cable from battery to starter, before opening your wallet. I should have though of this earlier.

1 jumper with 2nd battery (fully charged) from trunk at car's battery terminals.
2 If no start then must be power cable to starter, or the -ve lead from battery to grounding lug.
EDIT 3 if start then must be weak car battery.

Then:
1 stop engine, key off
2 remove +ve terminal from car's battery.
3 Jumper from 2nd battery to battery terminals only, so nothing connected to car battery +ve post. (car battery is now "removed/isolated" from all circuits)
4 Once jumpers connected, be very careful to ensure the +ve terminal does not touch any metal. Best with assistant to hold +ve clear while you try to start. Extra safety - wrap terminal and jumper clip in towels or rags to help prevent any inadvertent contact with metal.
5 If car starts then car battery is weak.
6 EDIT if no start, jumper -ve side of 2nd battery to -ve post on strut tower while keeping +ve to terminal in trunk
7 if now start, -ve battery lead or grounding lug is faulty (starting when jumpered from engine bay worked through ground on strut tower)
8 if no start on step 7, must be +ve cable from battery to starter

I trust the logic is clear. If not, post back with question.

Good luck.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pshovest View Post
Is this an AT E39? I think your first mechanic was on the right track. Start circuit is fairly simple. EWS does prevent starter operation. I don't think M52 uses a starter relay, only M62. Clicking sound may be relay in EWS module. I'd open EWS module and look for burned contacts. Looks like you can jump pins 1 & 3 of EWS connector and starter should engage. These diagrams are for an M52 up to 3/97.

Paul S
BMW CCA 69606
See also:
- Where is the starter motor located (1) & an M52 starter motor DIY (1) (2) & removing the 540i starter motor in one hour (1) & the BMW TIS (1) and an E38 740iL starter motor DIY (1) (2) & how to remove the M52 starter motor without removing the intake manifold (1) (2) & what special tools are needed (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & where is the starter motor relay (1) (2) & how many amp hours does the starter motor need to start our bimmer (1)
__________________
Please read the suggested threads, where the best always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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