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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #76  
Old 01-16-2009, 08:32 PM
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smolck smolck is offline
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Do you still have it? If yes, would you sell it to a Yankee guy who had 3 relatives that was in the Union Army?? LOL! Oh, yeah, they were in the 11th Corps (an all-German corps) so that might help!!
Sorry, just installed this on my car (thanks to Bimmerfest!)
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  #77  
Old 01-17-2009, 09:16 PM
dakarm dakarm is offline
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Just wanted to add that for 2002 330i Tischer BMW had the cheapest price at $170.

also does the DISA only have 2 bolts? simple remove and replace job?

It looks like I'll need to remove the air box, MAF, as well as part of the intake hose, but then is that it? I read the OPs post but I'm still a bit confused.
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  #78  
Old 01-18-2009, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by dakarm View Post
Just wanted to add that for 2002 330i Tischer BMW had the cheapest price at $170.

also does the DISA only have 2 bolts? simple remove and replace job?

It looks like I'll need to remove the air box, MAF, as well as part of the intake hose, but then is that it? I read the OPs post but I'm still a bit confused.
DISA comes out with two t-30 torx bolts. You don't have to remove any of that stuff. It'll come right out.
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  #79  
Old 01-18-2009, 08:41 AM
dakarm dakarm is offline
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DISA comes out with two t-30 torx bolts. You don't have to remove any of that stuff. It'll come right out.
perfect. easier than i thought. thank you.
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  #80  
Old 01-18-2009, 08:53 AM
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What would make me want to change out my DISA? If it's just 2 torx bolts EVEN I could manage this...
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  #81  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:35 AM
numindast numindast is offline
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I just added this thread to the bottom of the Maintenance section of the wiki; comments are welcome, PM me with criticism or concerns please, since I hope to help maintain the wiki going forward. Nice job on the writeup LBert.
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  #82  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:43 AM
dakarm dakarm is offline
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What would make me want to change out my DISA? If it's just 2 torx bolts EVEN I could manage this...
in my case my gfs 02 330i had the rattling noise. sounds like marbles in a tin can. i first thought it was coming from the vanos but after reading about vanos i realized the m54s vanos does not make the rattling noise. then i read further and found out the DISA does make similar sounding noise. upon further investigate, sure enough it was the DISA. I had the same part replace on my old e39 530i at 120k miles.
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  #83  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:48 AM
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Video of bad DISA:


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  #84  
Old 01-18-2009, 11:42 AM
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Video of bad DISA:


That is the dirtiest I've seen an e46 engine....
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  #85  
Old 01-18-2009, 05:52 PM
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Video of bad DISA:

Thanks, that was very helpful! Now I know what the "rattling marbles" sounds like. Thankfully, not the case here.
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  #86  
Old 01-18-2009, 08:55 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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After my CCV replacement about 300 miles ago I still have thick exhaust coming out of rear pipe. The engine is running smoothly, but my Check Engine Light is on and the smoke out of the rear pipe is MUCH thicker and abundant that normal. Anyone else has that after the Oil Separator replacement?

There are no visible/audible/performance issues with the engine... What could it be? Is it supposed to do that for some time or what? I can also smell something else other than the 'regular' exhaust, pretty sure I would not pass the emissions test anymore. I have also changed my valve cover gasket while doing the CCV. Any clues? Anyone has the same?
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  #87  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by yogi799 View Post
After my CCV replacement about 300 miles ago I still have thick exhaust coming out of rear pipe. The engine is running smoothly, but my Check Engine Light is on and the smoke out of the rear pipe is MUCH thicker and abundant that normal. Anyone else has that after the Oil Separator replacement?

There are no visible/audible/performance issues with the engine... What could it be? Is it supposed to do that for some time or what? I can also smell something else other than the 'regular' exhaust, pretty sure I would not pass the emissions test anymore. I have also changed my valve cover gasket while doing the CCV. Any clues? Anyone has the same?
You probably have fouled plugs. The CVV tends to ruin them when it goes bad.
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  #88  
Old 01-18-2009, 09:54 PM
Wulff Wulff is offline
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I originally came to this thread as I am in search of a vacuum leak that is throwing the 'famous' lean bank 1 and 2....
I did the test of pulling off the oil fill cap and there was slight vacuum but as I poked and prodded I found the hose from the oil separator to the dipstick was gummy and I easly pulled it apart as I removed the dipstick tube.
Since I am getting no smoke out of the rear and the plugs were dry I was thinking of just trying to replace the offending 'return' hose.
What I really wonder about is the small lines that is between the firewall and the motor, there is a couple of plugs that I found dried and cracked but there is also a check valve that the hoses are nearly impossible to remove.... mine are dried and cracked so I HAVE to replace them but nobody ever mentions these hoses or plugs, I am thinking this could really be a source for leaks, does anyone else know what I am talking about?
Is there and tiny-hand (preferably females) that will come over and give me a "hand"? LOL!!
And I can never forgive you Smolck for buying and using what clearly should have been MY assembly!

Last edited by Wulff; 01-18-2009 at 09:56 PM.
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  #89  
Old 01-19-2009, 05:21 AM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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You probably have fouled plugs. The CVV tends to ruin them when it goes bad.
Spark plugs, you mean?
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  #90  
Old 01-19-2009, 08:24 AM
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Spark plugs, you mean?
Yes.
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  #91  
Old 01-20-2009, 03:17 PM
Wulff Wulff is offline
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Has anyone ever replaced the vauum lines behind the motor?

Ooops, I didn't mean to post this on this thread, but if you have the answers I would appreciate it!

I have asked this in other threads but didn't get an answer because the topic was about other stuff... so thought I would start a new thread in case anyone else is having the same problems.

Problem: I was throwing PO171 and PO174 codes so I found a leak in the intake boot, this helped but the codes came back the next day.
I started looking for leaks, the small tubing on the air-pump control valve was cracked so I traced the line around the motor to an area just behind the intake manifold (drivers side). The hard line had a short rubber line that hooks to a distributor block in the area I mentioned. There is also 2 rubber plugs a large and small one mine were both cracked so (this is a good place to check when looking for leaks) I will replace these. There is also a check valve that hooks near the plugs that go around and hook into the same distributor towards the motor side. The hoses on mine are dried out and crumbling so I need to replace them.
Does anyone have a "miracle" way to replace these easily short of removing the intake manifold? If not it would be ideal to have a photo of this distributor block with the lines on a motor that has been removed from the chassis.
I think this is definably some lines and plugs that are causing a lot of people trouble and they don
t even know it as these lines are small and the problem is a lot of small vacuum leaks add up to a 'code-throwing' BIG leak! LOL!

Last edited by Wulff; 01-20-2009 at 03:23 PM.
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  #92  
Old 01-22-2009, 12:01 PM
Wulff Wulff is offline
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I think some additional information may be of some use to those doing the same as myself. If the oil seperator hoses are dried out and cracked you can bet that the small lines behind the intake is in the same condition. I removed the lower panel under the cabin filter housing and that made a lot more room! Mine was dried and was stuck on the plastic nipples so they had to be removed with a sharp-ring remover. I just picked at it till I was able to push it off.
Also, there are 2 rubber plugs (a large and small one) I have heard of a lot of people having small leaks back there can be traced to these plugs (especially the bigger plug) you can pick up an assortment of these rubber plugs at AutoZone for under $3.
I was thinking of doing a DIY on this.
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  #93  
Old 01-27-2009, 07:57 AM
BravoXray BravoXray is offline
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Excellent writeup! Found this thread when my car was with my indy mechanic for the lean codes mentioned by Wulff (P0171 and P0174). Thought it was just the cracked lower intake tube until the code wouldn't go away and added some misfire codes to the mix. Never did have any oil leaks from it though.

I did find out and want to share that the bad oil separator (CVV) can take out the resonance valve (DISA). Apparently it will tend to slam shut, breaking the shaft. That wouldn't be too bad but there is a steel pin that will then tend to fall into the intake, potentially causing catastrophic damage. Thankfully the pin in mine didn't fall out, but the shaft was broken.
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  #94  
Old 01-27-2009, 08:18 AM
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where's a good place to buy a new resonance valve (DISA)? I've looked at most of the regular places i get parts from and haven't been able to find it...

thanks,
koonjo
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  #95  
Old 01-28-2009, 07:36 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
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Originally Posted by koonjo1 View Post
where's a good place to buy a new resonance valve (DISA)? I've looked at most of the regular places i get parts from and haven't been able to find it...

thanks,
koonjo
http://www.rmeuropean.com/search.asp...rd=11617544806
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  #96  
Old 01-28-2009, 10:40 PM
dakarm dakarm is offline
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Originally Posted by dakarm View Post
Just wanted to add that for 2002 330i Tischer BMW had the cheapest price at $170.
Quote:
Originally Posted by koonjo1 View Post
where's a good place to buy a new resonance valve (DISA)? I've looked at most of the regular places i get parts from and haven't been able to find it...

thanks,
koonjo
see above. tischer bmw had the cheapest price.

www.getbmwparts.com

i don't know if 01 330i uses the same part or not.
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  #97  
Old 01-29-2009, 05:28 AM
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Just got my parts in for this job

I will start the tear-down tonight depending on how warm the garage is and how motivated I feel. Thanks to autohausaz for free shipping. They were a couple bucks more than Tischer for a few parts but Tischer couldn't tell me how much shipping would be until I committed to it and autohausaz was already free.
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  #98  
Old 01-29-2009, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by wdgiles View Post
I will start the tear-down tonight depending on how warm the garage is and how motivated I feel. Thanks to autohausaz for free shipping. They were a couple bucks more than Tischer for a few parts but Tischer couldn't tell me how much shipping would be until I committed to it and autohausaz was already free.
Don't forget to check out my video, it will give you a real world example of how to connect the hose that snakes between the intake runners to the CVV.
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now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
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  #99  
Old 01-29-2009, 09:13 AM
Lbert Lbert is offline
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Originally Posted by wdgiles View Post
I will start the tear-down tonight depending on how warm the garage is and how motivated I feel. Thanks to autohausaz for free shipping. They were a couple bucks more than Tischer for a few parts but Tischer couldn't tell me how much shipping would be until I committed to it and autohausaz was already free.
Hopefully you have a portable heater in the garage. It is going to be in the low 30s in Dallas tonight.
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  #100  
Old 01-29-2009, 09:20 AM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Hopefully you have a portable heater in the garage. It is going to be in the low 30s in Dallas tonight.
I was doing it at about 20 F outside, 32 inside the garage. I had my gloves on all the time and a 2x500W halogen lamp producing some awesome light AND a lot of heat as well to make it quite doable. Pulling on some darn connectors and plastic lines made me hot at times LOL
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