Welcome to Bimmerfest -- The #1 Online Community for BMW related information! Please enjoy the discussion forums below and share your experiences with the 200,000 current, new and past BMW owners. The forums are broken out by car model and into other special interest sections such as BMW European Delivery and a special forum to voice your questions to the many BMW dealers on the site to assist our members!

Please follow the links below to help get you started!

Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E46 (1999 - 2006)

E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #101  
Old 02-01-2009, 08:01 PM
wdgiles's Avatar
wdgiles wdgiles is offline
You can call me Bill
Location: Rockwall, Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 825
Mein Auto: 2001 325i
Finished the job today, thanks for the great write up. The temp was in the high 60's so the garage door was open for most of it. Now I just have a nagging radiator light to worry about on the dash. I'm thinking it's just the level sensor in the overflow tank, so not too worried. Still not driving it until the issue is cleared up though. I miss driving my car and it's only been 3 days.
__________________
*Current* -- 2008 335i Convertible
*Retired* -- 2001 325i - https://picasaweb.google.com/bgiles/2001325i#
Rockwall, Texas

Reply With Quote
  #102  
Old 02-01-2009, 10:02 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
wdgiles
Is the wire to the thermostat connected properly?
Reply With Quote
  #103  
Old 02-03-2009, 04:40 PM
wdgiles's Avatar
wdgiles wdgiles is offline
You can call me Bill
Location: Rockwall, Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 825
Mein Auto: 2001 325i
Yes it was connected properly. I checked the level in the expansion tank today after letting it sit for 24 hours and it was low, almost dry.
The problem seems to be gone, I took a 20 minute test run today on some back runs where I could easily stop without traffic in case something happened.
Tomorrow I'll take it to work for a 45 minute 1-way trip into Dallas, then I'll know for sure. At least today there were no codes or error lights to worry me.
If it can handle I-30, it can take anything.
__________________
*Current* -- 2008 335i Convertible
*Retired* -- 2001 325i - https://picasaweb.google.com/bgiles/2001325i#
Rockwall, Texas

Reply With Quote
  #104  
Old 02-03-2009, 08:45 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
Bring a quart of pre-mix coolant just in case.

Last edited by Lbert; 02-03-2009 at 09:08 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #105  
Old 02-04-2009, 04:33 AM
wdgiles's Avatar
wdgiles wdgiles is offline
You can call me Bill
Location: Rockwall, Texas
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 825
Mein Auto: 2001 325i
Yep, had a gallon of water and a gallon of the bmw coolant in the trunk. No problems this am, engine ran smooth and temp stayed pegged right in the middle.
__________________
*Current* -- 2008 335i Convertible
*Retired* -- 2001 325i - https://picasaweb.google.com/bgiles/2001325i#
Rockwall, Texas

Reply With Quote
  #106  
Old 02-06-2009, 05:58 PM
kevholio kevholio is offline
Registered User
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia, Canada
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1
Mein Auto: 1999 323i
Just finished the CCV replacement. Used the cold weather valve and hoses. Took about 3 hours to do. Couple tips that might help. The cold weather cover on the valve is next to impossible to keep on due to the limited space, so I took it off and used a little RTV to glue it to the valve. Had no issues after that. As for the "impossible" hose to the intake, with the cold weather version's "jacket" there is just no room to spin it onto the hose or to pre-assemble it and snake it through. What I found is that with fuel tank vent valve out of the way and the CCV bolted in place you can push the hose on with very little effort. No you wont break the ring on the hose. All in all fairly easy DIY. I think the hardness factor is due to the frustration . Time to go find the tools that accidently slipped out of my hand when I threw them across the shop!!
Reply With Quote
  #107  
Old 02-09-2009, 07:08 AM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
DIY replacement of the vent hose coming from valve cover to oil separator

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have seen several posts where the hose coming from the front of the valve cover going to the oil separator was damaged during removal of the valve cover. Below is DIY on how to replace the hose out of a 2001 325i.

This replacement can be completed in 30 min to an hour.

Background: the plastic hose gets brittle with age. The older the car, i.e. more than 7 years old, the more likely it will be brittle. If your car is older than 7 years, I recommend replacing the oil separator and all associated hoses to the oil separator. Failure timeframe for cars in northern or colder climates are shorter than given.

Caution: The older the oil separator, the more likely it could break doing this procedure. However, the plastic to the oil separator is thicker compared to the hose so it should be more durable. Do this project at your own risk. All information given are for reference only.


Dissassembly

Remove front air duct
  • Raise middle pin and pull out expanding fastener.
  • Remove air duct

Remove air filter box assembly
  • Remove 2 10mm bolt holding the air filter box assembly
  • Disconnect the electrical harness to the MAF sensor
  • Loosen hose clamp between MAF and upper air intake boot

Set aside the power steering reservoir assembly
  • Remove the 2 bolts (13mm) holding the power steering assembly
  • Move steering reservoir out of the work area
Disconnect 4 electrical connectors
  • Oil pressure sensor
  • Alternator (depending which alternator manufacturer came with your car, this may not apply)
  • Fuel breather valve
  • Oil temperature sensor

Move fuel breather valve to increase access area
  • Disconnect lower fuel breather valve hose from clip
  • Remove fuel breather valve from mount bracket

Optional. If you have large hands or need more room, remove the oil pressure switch. Use an adjustable wrench to take it out. Tip: Scribe a line across the nut to the frame using a marker. During installation, you have a reference mark on how much torque to use. Do clean the copper washer and mating surface before installation. It is best to replace the washer, if available. Dimension of washer: 16.1mm o.d., 11.7 mm i.d.


Objective We now have more room to access the lower connector with the electrical wirings and fuel breather valve assembly out of the way. Pictue 2.

The upper and lower hose connectors are identical. Study, understand, and practice on the upper connector how it works.

Squeeze the ring by the ribbed section of the connector ring and pull connector out. These ribbed sections are on opposite sides of the ring. If you run into any difficulty, the rubber o-ring seal inside the hose may have seized. Twist the connector slightly clockwise and counter-clockwise from its pivot point.

Connecting the new hose is simple. The 90-deg. elbow of the hose goes to the valve cover while other end connects to the oil separator. Push the connector in until you hear it snap. Pull lightly to be sure the connection is secure.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	tools.JPG
Views:	250
Size:	46.3 KB
ID:	174389   Click image for larger version

Name:	picturre 1.JPG
Views:	875
Size:	191.8 KB
ID:	174390   Click image for larger version

Name:	picture 2.JPG
Views:	1656
Size:	160.0 KB
ID:	174391  
Reply With Quote
  #108  
Old 02-09-2009, 09:58 AM
Latoilette Latoilette is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Chicago, IL
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 888
Send a message via AIM to Latoilette
Mein Auto: 2002 330ci silver
I did this job over the weekend. Friday night, it took me 2 hours to get to step 17.
Saturday, another hour, I pulled out the old oil separator.

It took me another 6 hours on top b/c once I put everything back together, I routed the "hose to the dipstick" in a wrong direction. I had to go "re-do" this whole process. My recommendation is to connect dipstick right before you connect "lower intake hose"

Step 2:::T-30 not T-40

If I didn't make a mistake, this entire thing would have taken about 5 hours.

During this process, I managed to break the F-tube vacuum hose. I broke the bottom one. Where does the other side lead to? It seems like it goes under the engine toward transmission but really couldn't see where it connects to.
Reply With Quote
  #109  
Old 02-18-2009, 08:58 AM
Threemer Threemer is offline
Registered User
Location: NC
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: '01 330i
This is my first post, but I felt compelled to thank Llbert for the great write-up. I did the CCV replacement last weekend using just your DIY post (as there is nothing relevant in the Bentley manual) and your instructions were dead-on. Everything seems to be working great. The various hoses and tubes were all full of some kind of vanilla pudding-looking crap when I took them out - this can't be good. I'll try to post pics if anyone is interested.
The only problems I encountered were 1) I should have started with 2 cans of throttle body cleaner 2) I found it easier to remove the dipstick guide after the lower intake boot was removed 3) I think I broke the "sucking jet pump" while removing the heat shield in front of the brake booster (connected by the vacuum hose that runs through the rubber grommet in the heat shield) - it went back together OK and seems to be functioning, but I still think it's broken.
All in all, it went well. I'm a complete novice when it comes to car mechanics - my most involved project prior to this was changing the water pump. Thanks again, as always this forum is a goldmine of information if you like to avoid the dealership!
Reply With Quote
  #110  
Old 03-13-2009, 10:39 AM
thfrazer thfrazer is offline
Registered User
Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2000 323ia
Questions about this DIY

Lbert and all,

I would like to try this, but I am very nervous about taking everything apart and putting it back together. I am pretty much a novice as far as auto repairs go. However, I just finished replacing the front control arms and bushings on my 2000 323ia and would like to tackle this job and the oil filter housing gasket at the same time. I would be using your and other photos to locate the components you mention. A couple questions:

1. Based on my experience should I try this DIY? Be honest.

2. In step #12 you mention removal of the DISA and in step #16 you remove the ICV. Are both of these steps REQUIRED to remove/replace the CCV? Was removal of these just to make it easier or were you working on them as well?

3. If all I want to do is replace the CCV and associated hoses (and oil filter housing gasket) do I need to mess with the DISA and ICV? I really don't want to replace the intake manifold gasket, etc.

Even though I may not be qualified to take on this DIY I want to thank you for the excellent write up and the great photos to go along with it. Thank you in advance for your response(s).

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #111  
Old 03-13-2009, 11:12 AM
smolck's Avatar
smolck smolck is offline
ROLL TIDE!
Location: Birmingham, AL
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 22,348
Mein Auto: 2004 ZHP Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by thfrazer View Post
Lbert and all,

I would like to try this, but I am very nervous about taking everything apart and putting it back together. I am pretty much a novice as far as auto repairs go. However, I just finished replacing the front control arms and bushings on my 2000 323ia and would like to tackle this job and the oil filter housing gasket at the same time. I would be using your and other photos to locate the components you mention. A couple questions:

1. Based on my experience should I try this DIY? Be honest.

2. In step #12 you mention removal of the DISA and in step #16 you remove the ICV. Are both of these steps REQUIRED to remove/replace the CCV? Was removal of these just to make it easier or were you working on them as well?

3. If all I want to do is replace the CCV and associated hoses (and oil filter housing gasket) do I need to mess with the DISA and ICV? I really don't want to replace the intake manifold gasket, etc.

Even though I may not be qualified to take on this DIY I want to thank you for the excellent write up and the great photos to go along with it. Thank you in advance for your response(s).

Tom
It is tricky, but not impossible. I did a bunch of videos of the process. They are not as good as the DIY Lbert did, but they will show you the process and how hard it is in real time. I posted them on the forum and you can search for them, or just go here and watch them all from my YouTube page.

http://www.youtube.com/user/flipfinish
__________________

Check out my YouTube Channel for DIY's and other fun stuff HERE
Check out my BMWBLOG!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
Reply With Quote
  #112  
Old 03-13-2009, 12:28 PM
thfrazer thfrazer is offline
Registered User
Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2000 323ia
smolck,

Thank you for that encouragement and for the link to the videos. Those are really cool. I haven't decided what I'm going to do, but it does look daunting. Do you have any experience replacing the oil filter housing gasket? Does that require as much "tear down"? I've been told I need to change the gasket and that I should go ahead and change the CCV at the same time so I may just do the gasket if it is much easier.

Thanks,

Tom
Reply With Quote
  #113  
Old 03-13-2009, 12:41 PM
smolck's Avatar
smolck smolck is offline
ROLL TIDE!
Location: Birmingham, AL
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 22,348
Mein Auto: 2004 ZHP Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by thfrazer View Post
smolck,

Thank you for that encouragement and for the link to the videos. Those are really cool. I haven't decided what I'm going to do, but it does look daunting. Do you have any experience replacing the oil filter housing gasket? Does that require as much "tear down"? I've been told I need to change the gasket and that I should go ahead and change the CCV at the same time so I may just do the gasket if it is much easier.

Thanks,

Tom
Gasket is pretty easy from what I hear. I've never actually done one myself.
__________________

Check out my YouTube Channel for DIY's and other fun stuff HERE
Check out my BMWBLOG!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
Reply With Quote
  #114  
Old 03-13-2009, 03:55 PM
16valex's Avatar
16valex 16valex is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Albany NY
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,639
Mein Auto: 530I/5SC 97-528/5
Quote:
Originally Posted by thfrazer View Post
smolck,

Thank you for that encouragement and for the link to the videos. Those are really cool. I haven't decided what I'm going to do, but it does look daunting. Do you have any experience replacing the oil filter housing gasket? Does that require as much "tear down"? I've been told I need to change the gasket and that I should go ahead and change the CCV at the same time so I may just do the gasket if it is much easier.

Thanks,

Tom
You should do the oil filter housing gasket at the same time as the CCV/PCV, because it will make the CCV job much easier with all kind of room once the alternator and oil filter housing out of the way.
Reply With Quote
  #115  
Old 03-13-2009, 09:11 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
[QUOTE=Latoilette;3907919]I did this job over the weekend. Friday night, it took me 2 hours to get to step 17.
Saturday, another hour, I pulled out the old oil separator.

It took me another 6 hours on top b/c once I put everything back together, I routed the "hose to the dipstick" in a wrong direction. I had to go "re-do" this whole process. My recommendation is to connect dipstick right before you connect "lower intake hose"

Step 2:::T-30 not T-40

QUOTE]

Latoilette, you are right. The torx should be T-30 as you indicated. Thank you for the correction.

If you had the car up on ramps whereby you can access underneath the engine, you can remove or attach the bottom hose to the oil separator without having to dissamble the other parts. It is a bit of a reach with your arm but certainly doable.
Reply With Quote
  #116  
Old 03-13-2009, 09:21 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threemer View Post
This is my first post, but I felt compelled to thank Llbert for the great write-up. I did the CCV replacement last weekend using just your DIY post (as there is nothing relevant in the Bentley manual) and your instructions were dead-on. Everything seems to be working great. The various hoses and tubes were all full of some kind of vanilla pudding-looking crap when I took them out - this can't be good. I'll try to post pics if anyone is interested.
The only problems I encountered were 1) I should have started with 2 cans of throttle body cleaner 2) I found it easier to remove the dipstick guide after the lower intake boot was removed 3) I think I broke the "sucking jet pump" while removing the heat shield in front of the brake booster (connected by the vacuum hose that runs through the rubber grommet in the heat shield) - it went back together OK and seems to be functioning, but I still think it's broken.
All in all, it went well. I'm a complete novice when it comes to car mechanics - my most involved project prior to this was changing the water pump. Thanks again, as always this forum is a goldmine of information if you like to avoid the dealership!
Threemer, I am flattered and appreciative you took the time to express your appreciation. Comments like yours made doing the write-up worth it.

You and Latoilette commented that the process could be improved by removing the lower intake boot before removing the dipstick tube. Everyone, follow their suggestion. Thank you both for your suggestion.
Reply With Quote
  #117  
Old 03-13-2009, 09:53 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
Tom,

Since you were successful with the control arm replacement, I am confident you will do the same with this project. Do not be intimidated by those who could do the job in less than 4 hours. This is not a race. Getting to the finish line doing the job right is your objective. There are plenty of steps and pictures on the write-up to bring the level of difficulty down a notch or two. Do take digital pictures as you go along as point of reference and take your time during disassembly so you are aware where things belong. Pretend you will be teaching a course on this project when you are finished and you will be surprise what you remember. Should you run into any difficulty, plenty here in the forum can help you out.

Yes, removal of the DISA and ICV is necessary to get to the oil separator.

I suggest do the oil separator and oil filter housing gasket separately. Do the oil-housing gasket first. After you complete the project, this will give you the confidence to do the oil separator next.

Thank you for your comments and good luck! Do let us know how you did.
Reply With Quote
  #118  
Old 03-16-2009, 07:50 PM
thfrazer thfrazer is offline
Registered User
Location: Florida
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Mein Auto: 2000 323ia
Lbert,

With your encouragement and advice I was looking forward to changing the oil filter hosing gasket. However, once I opened the Bentley manual to learn how to remove the alternator I read I need to remove the radiator cooling fan and shroud. And when I read how to do that those instructions stated I need to remove the front bumper to get to it. On another forum I had gotten this DIY (for 2003 330i) so I was a bit shocked to read all the other stuff I'd have to do. I believe the Peter Principle has caught up with me.

I really wish I had the time to tackle this project, but I'm afraid I'd screw it up and have my car out of commission for several days. I hate the thought of paying $500 for this work, but I'd hate it more if I screwed it up and had to pay more because of my work!

Here's the other DIY.

Tom




Put on car ramps

No need to drain oil
Remove under tray
Remove air box
Remove alternator belt off pulleys
Remove the 2-13mm bolts to p/s reservoir and slide out the way.
Remove upper radiator hose(had to replace anyway) It'll be in the way!

Unplug 1 connector to alternator and main wire. I taped up the Hot lead just in case.
Remove the 2 alternator bolts and remove. Top bolt has the idler pulley attached(takes some wiggling to remove the alternator)
Unplug 2 connectors to oil housing and oil line feed bolt(I removed the one in front by the radiator hose)
Remove "I think" 6 bolts to oil housing, Only the ones that are bolted to the engine block(not the tensioner, it stays connected)
Pull housing away from engine block (alot of brackets are connected to this)
Pull out old seal and clean surface
Install new rubber gasket( I greased the seal and surface)
Install in reverse order
Top off oil and coolant(the oil housing has a check valve so you really don't lose any oil)
When finished I used Castrol Superclean and a water hose to clean under the engine
Next time it would probably take less than 2 hours.
There you have it!!!!! Simple Job!!!!

Last edited by thfrazer; 03-16-2009 at 07:54 PM. Reason: left out mention of alternator
Reply With Quote
  #119  
Old 03-17-2009, 08:50 AM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
Tom,

The bumper does not need to be removed to replace the oil filter housing gasket. I am not sure what section of Bentley manual you are reading.

I consider changing the oil filter housing gasket at a lower level difficulty compared to replacing the control arms. If you managed to do the control arms, I am confident you can do this. If you do not get your feet wet, you not be able to further your mechanic skills. The little write up you found said it can be done in less than 2 hours. If you are willing to pay $500.00 to do the job, certainly you can find the time to do the job if someone is willing to pay you $250.00 an hour. Even if it takes you 3 hours, that is a still a hefty salary. Needless to say, you know yourself best and what is your budget. I do not want to push you more than what you are confident to tackle.

PM me should you need further help regarding this topic or post it separately from this oil separator thread.

Last edited by Lbert; 03-17-2009 at 09:41 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #120  
Old 04-29-2009, 08:43 AM
BMW4RE BMW4RE is offline
Registered User
Location: 67
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 8
Mein Auto: '99 528ia
Unusual, I'm sure...but fun city baby.

So, after completing the Vanos rebuild I decided to replace the original CCV on my E39. Should be relatively straight forward but it all went terribly wrong. I'm generally a pretty decent mechanic and have rebuilt motors by myself (Mopar 318) and done many a clutch job, etc. What I haven't run into are the type of problems that plastic in an engine compartment can bring. Incredible.
Anyway, when I removed the CCV the Torx 25 screws were rather difficult to remove. They never loosened up the way most fasteners do once you break their original hold. These babies squeaked as I backed them out. Because of this I should have known to replace them in case the Torx heads were slightly stripped during the removal. I'm not sure that they were. However, they were while I was tightening them during the installation of the new CCV. I ended up having to remove the intake manifold in order to get those Torx out. Fortunately, I didn't have to use an EZOut on them, as with the intake removed I could set the intake against the back of my bench, lean into the heads, and successfully remove the beasts. I'll post a picture of what the area looks like under the manifold. It's rather "busy" under there.
So, does anyone know whether when you're using screws with very coarse threads (CCV screws), and threading into plastic, whether or not you should lubricate the threads of the screws? Should I use oil or some type of anti-seize, etc.?
I will also post pictures of the underside of the intake manifold, along with other angles if anyone would find them useful.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01644.JPG
Views:	493
Size:	116.9 KB
ID:	183372  
Reply With Quote
  #121  
Old 04-29-2009, 09:17 AM
Latoilette Latoilette is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Chicago, IL
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 888
Send a message via AIM to Latoilette
Mein Auto: 2002 330ci silver
Quote:
Originally Posted by thfrazer View Post
smolck,

Thank you for that encouragement and for the link to the videos. Those are really cool. I haven't decided what I'm going to do, but it does look daunting. Do you have any experience replacing the oil filter housing gasket? Does that require as much "tear down"? I've been told I need to change the gasket and that I should go ahead and change the CCV at the same time so I may just do the gasket if it is much easier.

Thanks,

Tom
I've done oil filter housing gasket about couple of weeks ago.
It is fairly straight.

on automatic,
remove air ducts (easy)
remove fan shroud & fan (easy)
remove belt that has alternator (1 torx bolt and turn clockwise to lose tension on belt)
remove idler (1 bolt)
remove alternator (2 bolts)
and then you have to remove two bolts that holds power steering to your oil housing

*** never mentioned on any oil filter housing write ups I've read..***
there are two bolts that hold power steering pump/bracket to your oil housing from the front (front to back), but there is another one that is in the rear (that goes from bottom to up)

Remove bunch of bolts that hold oil filter housing. Then BOOM. the whole thing comes out.

what part of Florida do you live in?
Reply With Quote
  #122  
Old 04-29-2009, 09:35 AM
easyIsle easyIsle is offline
Registered User
Location: LI, NY, USA
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 21
Mein Auto: 02 330i
i didnt have to remove the idler pulley, but I have a manual. Everything else you said^ is spot on.

(theres 3 bolts on the power steering in total, and yes the ALT has two bolts, but there is also one bolt on the back for the positive wire you have to undo ,along with the wiring harness. I ended up breaking a couple pieces of the plastic shield around that one + wire bolt, but it won't cause any problems the way I broke it.. so dont worry if you hear plastic cracking. It scared the crap out of me)
Reply With Quote
  #123  
Old 04-30-2009, 10:37 AM
magbarn magbarn is online now
Waiting for the d
Location: LA, CA
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 798
Mein Auto: '10 335d
Is this dreaded DISA/ICV/Oil separator doo-hickey just as failure prone as BMW's famed cooling system? Looking at the amount of DIY labor required along with the price of an indy/BMW to do this (>$1000) I'm dreading this. What's the lifespan of this system on a 330i as I'm just about to hit the 45K mark on '03? Do the E9x cars also have this POS system?
__________________

'10 335d Monaco blue/oyster/SP/PP/Enhanced Premium Sound/nav from phillipek SBBMW
Click Here for Pics!
Reply With Quote
  #124  
Old 04-30-2009, 12:10 PM
smolck's Avatar
smolck smolck is offline
ROLL TIDE!
Location: Birmingham, AL
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 22,348
Mein Auto: 2004 ZHP Sedan
Quote:
Originally Posted by magbarn View Post
Is this dreaded DISA/ICV/Oil separator doo-hickey just as failure prone as BMW's famed cooling system? Looking at the amount of DIY labor required along with the price of an indy/BMW to do this (>$1000) I'm dreading this. What's the lifespan of this system on a 330i as I'm just about to hit the 45K mark on '03? Do the E9x cars also have this POS system?
Seems to be fairly failure prone. But it isn't a bad job. After 3 of them, it is like changing tires.....easy
__________________

Check out my YouTube Channel for DIY's and other fun stuff HERE
Check out my BMWBLOG!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
now, go burn your Man Card, and buy yourself a Camry....
Reply With Quote
  #125  
Old 04-30-2009, 02:05 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Richardson, TX
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 409
Mein Auto: 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW4RE View Post
............... So, does anyone know whether when you're using screws with very coarse threads (CCV screws), and threading into plastic, whether or not you should lubricate the threads of the screws? Should I use oil or some type of anti-seize, etc.?
I will also post pictures of the underside of the intake manifold, along with other angles if anyone would find them useful.

It is a good practice to clean the screw threads before re-installation. Spray the threads clean with brake cleaner and use a lubricant thereafter. Then wipe any excess lubricant with a rag. I prefer a silicone base lubricant over wd40 especially for any thing rubber or plastic. Use a small amount of anti-seize on spark plugs or any screws or bolts subject to the harsh elements.

Yes, do post any pictures you believe will be useful. I am interested how different this project is relative to the E39.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
ccv, diy


Forum Navigation
Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E46 (1999 - 2006)
Today's Posts Search
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2011 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms