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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #201  
Old 01-28-2012, 04:32 PM
robj213 robj213 is offline
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I broke mine in half trying to get it out, but I didn't notice any clogging in it, just a small amount of yellow milky residue. None of the hoses appeared to have any clogging either.
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  #202  
Old 01-28-2012, 11:48 PM
Totte Totte is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ganseg View Post
Would you mind cutting your oil separator in half to see if it is clogged? I cut mine vertically and there was NO gunk in it. I wonder if it is the hoses that get clogged.
I remember seeing at least one picture here where the dipstick tube itself was completely clogged... There is an updated version of the dipstick tube where the oil guides are made bigger to prevent clogging
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  #203  
Old 01-29-2012, 05:21 AM
ganseg ganseg is offline
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This is just a thought in process, but what if a person put a catch can down near the bottom of the engine bay, then ran the hose that goes into the dipstick tube into the catch can. THen the hose out of the catch can would go to the dipstick tube. This would prevent oil from ever being sucked up into the intake (one of the two results of failure). THis would have to be done before things were completely clogged, and you would need to drain the catch can each time you changed oil, but the car would never hydrolock. My car has 145k on it and mine wasn't blocked up, so I would have tried this if I had any thought of it before removing the oil separator.
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  #204  
Old 02-08-2012, 08:20 AM
bluecrab bluecrab is offline
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I'm about to this job on my '04 325xi... seeing puffs of bluish smoke out the tailpipe on cold starts. Also seeing smoke every once in a while stopped at a light. Starting to get worse so now's the time. Wish me luck!!
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  #205  
Old 02-18-2012, 03:46 PM
bluecrab bluecrab is offline
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Mein Auto: 2011 328i xDrive
Replaced my CVV and associated hoses/pipes. No more smoke! Pretty tough job but well worth it! I'm a happy camper. I dissected my old valve and, sure enough, the diaphragm was torn. Took me about 4 hours to do the job.
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  #206  
Old 06-10-2012, 03:18 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Totte View Post
I remember seeing at least one picture here where the dipstick tube itself was completely clogged... There is an updated version of the dipstick tube where the oil guides are made bigger to prevent clogging
Lots of pictures of clogged M54 engine dipstick guide tubes over here in the E39 section:
- How to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)

Our philosophy is not to reward BMW by paying yet another hundred dollars for their redesign - but to redesign the dipstick guide tube ourselves!

The good news is you can test for a clogged dipstick guide tube in just a few minutes and a 1/2 inch ID rubber hose.

__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 06-10-2012 at 03:27 PM.
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  #207  
Old 06-24-2013, 04:57 AM
VTpeura VTpeura is offline
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about the cold weather CCV valve installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by ckleung100 View Post
Very nice write up.

Replacing the hoses is not really an option. GET NEW ONES. They will break. If not now, they will break two weeks after you get everything back together. Save yourself the grief of having to get new ones later and replace them while you already spent so much time taking everything apart. I would even go so far as to say BMW designs them to need replacement, much like the window regulators. Why couldn't they have been metal pipes instead of thin hard plastic?

Some additional information on the cold climate valve: I live in Toronto but upon removing everything, I discovered the car used the regular CCV valve. I wonder how cold it has to get for BMW to install it with the car?

The cold climate version is simply a foam jacket for the CCV valve and foam sleeves for the pipes. If you don't remove the intake, it is next to impossible to get the insulated CCV and connecting hose (item 20, photo 7,8) in. I gave up after 2 hours. There simply is not enough clearance.
I just performed this service this weekend. This forum was great for the step by steps. I did one trick to get the cold weather CCV to install easier. Lightly coat the insulation on the surfaces where it will be contacting other surfaces. This made the ccv slide in to place much easier.
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  #208  
Old 12-15-2013, 03:51 PM
eldonoplay eldonoplay is offline
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11611432559 Oil Separator Hose to Valve Cover won't seat right... too long? please help!
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  #209  
Old 12-15-2013, 06:12 PM
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iskoos iskoos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eldonoplay View Post
11611432559 Oil Separator Hose to Valve Cover won't seat right... too long? please help!
Never heard of that before.
If it is too long, the only possible explanation is that you did not properly attached the other end to the CVV.

I also assume you got some aftermarket stuff. If so, do yourself a favor and return them to get OEM.
I bought the whole set aftermarket to save about $50 and then none of the pipes/hoses connected properly. It was a nightmare and I returned all of them immediately.
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  #210  
Old 12-15-2013, 06:58 PM
eldonoplay eldonoplay is offline
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Thanks Iskoos. this thing is kicking my butt... think you are right on aftermarket stuff. fighting them bottom hose now. post wiring harness back in...grrrr
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  #211  
Old 12-15-2013, 07:25 PM
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Scottji Scottji is offline
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Re: DIY Oil Separtor, DISA, ICV

From personal experience I can again advise -- this is NOT the project to try to save a buck by using aftermarket parts. OEM only for this one.
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  #212  
Old 12-16-2013, 05:45 PM
eldonoplay eldonoplay is offline
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Thank you Lbert!! and all of the rest of you folks that contribute. This DYI and others have been beyond helpful. I have relied heavily on you all for the care and well being of my car (2003 BMW 325i 156,000 miles). I have saved roughly 4500-5000 to date and learned some very cool stuff. I am not mechanically inclined.... not at all. But you all have made taking care of my car possible. And I thank you... car is running well now!
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  #213  
Old 12-16-2013, 10:14 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is offline
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Thanks for the thanks. It's why we're here. We're friends with each other and we have no idea what others look like.
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  #214  
Old 12-17-2013, 06:16 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
Thanks for the thanks. It's why we're here. We're friends with each other and we have no idea what others look like.
In some cases that can be a good thing.....

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2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD
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  #215  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:27 PM
inferno nexus inferno nexus is offline
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Thanks for the DIY! Did the job in ~6 hours today. I did however, drop two things into the engine bay and need help with part numbers:

10 mm nut for wire harness box to throttle body. (photo 5 on DIY) I believe it is 07129904865? That's #8 on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=11&fg=40

1/4 turn clip for securing the brake housing shield (Photo 1 on DIY). I can't find this anywhere on realoem or the ECS Tuning catalog.

Thanks!
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  #216  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:56 PM
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iskoos iskoos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inferno nexus View Post
Thanks for the DIY! Did the job in ~6 hours today. I did however, drop two things into the engine bay and need help with part numbers:

10 mm nut for wire harness box to throttle body. (photo 5 on DIY) I believe it is 07129904865? That's #8 on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=11&fg=40

1/4 turn clip for securing the brake housing shield (Photo 1 on DIY). I can't find this anywhere on realoem or the ECS Tuning catalog.

Thanks!
Well, can you not drop the splash guard and recover them?
I am sure your splash guard would also enjoy some cleaning while you are there
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  #217  
Old 03-15-2014, 08:58 PM
inferno nexus inferno nexus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iskoos View Post
Well, can you not drop the splash guard and recover them?
I am sure your splash guard would also enjoy some cleaning while you are there
My condo doesnt allow maintenance in the parking lots, so I avoid raising my car to attract attention....
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  #218  
Old 03-16-2014, 06:51 AM
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ahull ahull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inferno nexus View Post
Thanks for the DIY! Did the job in ~6 hours today. I did however, drop two things into the engine bay and need help with part numbers:

10 mm nut for wire harness box to throttle body. (photo 5 on DIY) I believe it is 07129904865? That's #8 on http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...80&hg=11&fg=40

1/4 turn clip for securing the brake housing shield (Photo 1 on DIY). I can't find this anywhere on realoem or the ECS Tuning catalog.

Thanks!
You can always try a home depot for suitable replacements for both. 10mm nuts are pretty common, just get the right thread count. See if you can find another nut somewhere under the hood that's identical you can take with you to match. They have plastic rivets there too.

Edit: Realoem, #16: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...76&hg=51&fg=80

Plug the part # into furiousmethod.com and then google it
__________________
2003 330i TiAg Sport Pkg ~90k miles
DIY MODS: AA Stage I supercharger, Meyle HD FCAs w Powerflex CABs, Bilstein shocks, Meyle HD Rtabs, Angel Eyes, Clear Corners/Markers w/ LEDs, LED tails, ZHP rims, Akebono pads, AUX input
DIY E46 Merit Badges: Sunroof resurrection, CCV, OFHG, VCG w/ VANOS seals, DISA, Cooling Refresh I, steering giubo, window regs, Magnetic Infandibulator (see wiki)
DIY On deck: Rear Diff bushing. UUC SSK, clutch job eventually, Wavetrac LSD

Last edited by ahull; 03-16-2014 at 07:02 AM.
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  #219  
Old 03-16-2014, 08:13 AM
inferno nexus inferno nexus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahull View Post
You can always try a home depot for suitable replacements for both. 10mm nuts are pretty common, just get the right thread count. See if you can find another nut somewhere under the hood that's identical you can take with you to match. They have plastic rivets there too.

Edit: Realoem, #16: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...76&hg=51&fg=80

Plug the part # into furiousmethod.com and then google it
Thanks! Yup I use furious method all the time; I just couldnt find that diagram on realoem.
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  #220  
Old 07-31-2014, 05:12 AM
justbabs justbabs is offline
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A very helpful DIY. I would add when assembling the lower intake boot to the throttle body, I lined up the rubber tab to the tabs on the throttle body, then used a paint marker to draw a line on the tops of both for easier alignment during assembly on the car.
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