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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-10-2015, 06:37 PM
tinmanchris tinmanchris is offline
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Possible Vanos Issue

A week ago I started getting some very weird rattling noise from my engine that can be heard even when the hood is down.

I did some research and decided it was either the Vanos system or the Chain Tensioner.

I replaced the chain tensioner today but sadly the noise is still there.

Can somebody take a look at this video and let me know what I should do next? Do you agree it's the Vanos system?



If so, do I get the Rattle Repair kit from Besian or do I get the single or double Vanos Seals Repair Kit? Or should I do both?

I'm going to try and repair this myself but it's the first time I'll be actually working inside an engine.

I ride a 1998 528i which I love oh so much.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 07-10-2015, 06:58 PM
ca2014mp2 ca2014mp2 is online now
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turn your video to public (share) so we can see it..
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Series E39 Vehicle code DP63 Model 528ITA Engine M52TU
Body type OTHER Catalog model USA Production date 1999 / 06
Transmission Automatic Steering Left Catalyzer YES

Production FROM : 1998/09/01 TO : 1999/08/31
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  #3  
Old 07-10-2015, 07:05 PM
tinmanchris tinmanchris is offline
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My bad. Video should be viewable now.
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  #4  
Old 07-10-2015, 07:49 PM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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I cannot tell from the video as the audio quality is poor. But it does not sound like the Vanos rattle that I am familiar with. The Vanos rattle I have heard is somewhat intermittent, not a constant rattle. And you have the single Vanos and need to lock your cams when doing this procedure.
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  #5  
Old 07-10-2015, 09:00 PM
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chefterry chefterry is offline
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It sounds exactly like mine did right before the timing chain guides snapped. I'm in the middle of the project to replace them. I'm doing it myself as any shop wants $3500-$5000 to do it. According to the repair guides, it takes about 30 hours start to finish. Parts aren't terrible, ECS Tuning has a few kits any where from $400 to $1200, depending on what you want. I opted for the $900 kit. It's not an easy job but if you are a decent with a wrench it not horrible. I work on mine a couple hours a day on the weekends. I'm in no hurry as this is a 3rd vehicle (toy). Good luck!
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  #6  
Old 07-10-2015, 09:03 PM
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chefterry chefterry is offline
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Edit....
The kits I'm talking about are for the 540. Not sure about the kits for the 528's.
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  #7  
Old 07-10-2015, 10:52 PM
ca2014mp2 ca2014mp2 is online now
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I don't think vanos.. mainly because when you were over by the exhaust there was no noise. My bet is pulley, or alt. What I tried to hear was a grinding sound at engine shut down. I didn't hear a thing that was abnormal during shut down. But a worn pulley or bad bearing up front would make that kind of sound.. yeah, and about four other things too.. I would think about how old the pulley bearing are and age of alt. ...Really need better audio..
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Series E39 Vehicle code DP63 Model 528ITA Engine M52TU
Body type OTHER Catalog model USA Production date 1999 / 06
Transmission Automatic Steering Left Catalyzer YES

Production FROM : 1998/09/01 TO : 1999/08/31
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  #8  
Old 07-10-2015, 10:54 PM
ca2014mp2 ca2014mp2 is online now
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after another go at the video.. when have you looked at your ccv system.. and if that is an air leak what are your fuel trim numbers???
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Series E39 Vehicle code DP63 Model 528ITA Engine M52TU
Body type OTHER Catalog model USA Production date 1999 / 06
Transmission Automatic Steering Left Catalyzer YES

Production FROM : 1998/09/01 TO : 1999/08/31
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  #9  
Old 07-12-2015, 10:46 AM
tinmanchris tinmanchris is offline
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So another thing I did was open up the power steering reservoir and started the car to see if there is any circulation. The liquid stayed still with no movement. I'm guessing this *could* be power steering related then?

Weird thing is power steering does still work but it might be super thirsty due to lack of liquid.

I'll clean out the filter and see if that helps. Wish me luck.
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Old 07-12-2015, 08:00 PM
spoddye39 spoddye39 is offline
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The whistle sounds to me like a vacuum leak - I had something similar when my CCV was faulty. Are there any other symptoms (apart from the rattling noise you mentioned)?

spod
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  #11  
Old 07-13-2015, 12:13 AM
tinmanchris tinmanchris is offline
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Well the power steering wasn't it. Cleaned out the power steering tank and saw circulation after I put it back together. The sounds seems like it's coming from the back right of the engine itself. I think I'm going to take it in to an indy shop for a diagnosis as I need to know if the car is safe to drive.

The whistle while driving started after I did an oil change, air filter and cabin air filter work. I think I split oil on the belts or something... drives me nuts. The faster I go the more it whistle.
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Old 07-13-2015, 01:47 AM
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Seems to be coming from the intake tract. Check the intake tube for leak (either a tear or a loose connection), throttle body gasket, vaccum connections, and the DISA valve.
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Old 07-13-2015, 07:43 PM
spoddye39 spoddye39 is offline
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If its a vacuum leak its whistle will be RPM dependant. Suggest you do a smoke test.

Spod
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  #14  
Old 07-14-2015, 06:51 AM
dvdlkd dvdlkd is offline
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You can eliminate anything belt driven by removing your belt (just loosen it off the idler pulley). You can then start your engine and run the car for no more than 20 seconds and see if the noise goes away. First remove the AC belt as this was recently causing a similar noise for another member. He replaced the idler pulley for the AC and resolved his problem.
I did not think the I6's had problems with the timing chain guides like the V8's.
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2015, 07:06 PM
tinmanchris tinmanchris is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvdlkd View Post
You can eliminate anything belt driven by removing your belt (just loosen it off the idler pulley). You can then start your engine and run the car for no more than 20 seconds and see if the noise goes away. First remove the AC belt as this was recently causing a similar noise for another member. He replaced the idler pulley for the AC and resolved his problem.
I did not think the I6's had problems with the timing chain guides like the V8's.
Do you know of a guide to do this? Maybe I can do it this weekend.

Edit> NM... found this video:

Seems to make very similar sounds

Last edited by tinmanchris; 07-15-2015 at 07:07 PM.
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