M3 strut brace install question

Ok-

I've read through all the posts on the install in preparation for my own installation later today. But, I', still confused about which nuts to use where:

-The kit from Cutter came w/ 6 nuts (atleast mine did).
-There are 3 nuts on each strut tower already
-That's a total of 12 nuts
-There are a total of 10 bolts that need nuts (3 for each strut, 2 for each side of the transverse bar)

So, do I:
-use the 6 nuts that came w/ the kit to secure the left and right brackets, and then
use the 4 of the 6 original strut nuts that I remove from to secure the transverse bar to the rbackets? And then, chuck the remining 2 original nuts?
-Or do I use the 12 nuts in some other combination? If so, what is it?
-Also, I read some posts about possbly needing to buy new nuts since the strut tower nuts are self-locking. I'm fine being extra anal and doing this-- but exactly which nuts do I buy, how many of them and where am i using them? I'm guessing that I'd be buying 4 new 7.60 M3 strut nuts to secure the transverse bar to the brackets instead of re-using 4 of my original strut nuts. Is this right?

There were posts on this subject, but they were too vague and confusing for my simple mind.

I tend to have no common sense when it comes to this stuff-- I'd be capable of installing the thing upside down and bacwards if it weren't for all of Ack's pictures (thanks Ack!). So, please, be very condescending and give me the kind of instructions you'd give a 5 year old. Thanks

Also, Alee asked a while back what type of torque wrench to get for the job. If you're reading this Alee, what type did you buy (brand, size, etc)?

If you're gonna buy new nuts for the transverse bar, you need 4 nuts identical to the ones that come off the stock shock tower. The shouldered ones that fasten the bar to the towers will NOT work on the transverse bar itself.

Originally posted by robg
So, do I:
-use the 6 nuts that came w/ the kit to secure the left and right brackets, and then
use the 4 of the 6 original strut nuts that I remove from to secure the transverse bar to the rbackets? And then, chuck the remining 2 original nuts?

That's what I did.

I tend to have no common sense when it comes to this stuff-- I'd be capable of installing the thing upside down and bacwards if it weren't for all of Ack's pictures (thanks Ack!). So, please, be very condescending and give me the kind of instructions you'd give a 5 year old. Thanks

LOL... I put the driver's side bracket on the passenger side by accident the first time.

My steps:
1. Remove the battery jumper thing per Ack's installation instructions.

2. Unbolt the passenger side 3 nuts.

3. Line up the passenger side bracket from the M brace.

4. Bolt it in place using 3 of the 6 nuts from what you received in your kit.

5. Replace the jumper, per Ack's instructions.

6. Remove nuts from driver's side.

7. Line up driver's side bracket.

8. Bolt it down using the remaining 3 nuts from the kit you received.

9. Center the traverse bar.

10. Bolt down the passenger side using 2 of the 6 nuts you removed.

11. Bolt down the driver's side using 2 of the 6 nuts you removed. You should have 2 remaining.

12. Pop on the nuts caps, and the M caps.

Also, Alee asked a while back what type of torque wrench to get for the job. If you're reading this Alee, what type did you buy (brand, size, etc)?

I ended up skipping the torque wrench. I used a regular socket wrench and a 13mm socket. Once you loosen the nuts, you will realize they aren't really on that tight and hand-tightening them should be more than enough.

You can see a few more pics in this thread.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...threadid=33315

Also, I recommend using a piece of duct tape on the little piece that pops out (detailed in Ack's instructions). That keeps you from popping it out and losing it.

You have to use the 6 nuts that came with the strut bar....they have extra long sleeves to fit. You then use 4 of the original nuts to secure the crossbar. The other 2 nuts are yours...he he

You can get black plastic caps that go over all 10 nuts from the dealer. The new strut bars come with caps over the 6 nuts but not the 4 nuts on the crossbar.

Originally posted by Jim in Oregon
You can get black plastic caps that go over all 10 nuts from the dealer. The new strut bars come with caps over the 6 nuts but not the 4 nuts on the crossbar.

Oooh, how many HP are the 4 extra nut caps worth?

Originally posted by Jim in Oregon
You have to use the 6 nuts that came with the strut bar....they have extra long sleeves to fit. You then use 4 of the original nuts to secure the crossbar. The other 2 nuts are yours...he he

worked for me

2 hp per nut cap...he he

Just wanted to thank everyone for your help. Alee-- thanks for your detailed post-- that was exactly what I needed. I just finished installing the brace. As everyone promised, it was actually pretty easy. The hardest parts for me were the plastic pieces-- removing the battery jump point and putting on the decorative M covers.

Obligatory test drive notes to follow.

Hey robg, does that make you official an anti-anti-modder now?

Glad to hear it all worked out. Did you use a torque wrench or did you decide to do it by hand also? Looking forward to your evaluation of the mod.

Isn't the answer to this install question painfully obvious?
















http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...threadid=32905

I did see that post and others--but you have to understand-- I'm a major mechanical idiot. Unless its spelled unambiguously in black and white , its not obvious to me. In looking back now, yes its painfully obvious..

My review of the strut brace-

Unlike Alee, I actually don't have any rattles in my car right now (must be the superior structure of the sedan. ) . So, adding the strut brace didn't make an obvious difference in that regard. But, once I really started to fling the car around, and take it over some bumpy roads, i did notice a difference. Its hard to describe, but I could feel the front end moving more as 1 unit over bumps in the road. Yeah, I know, you're probably thinking its all in my head--well, I swear its true! If turn-in responsiveness increased, it was too subtle for me to notice. It did seem like the car cornered more "tidily"-- not necessarily flatter, but it just felt a tad more composed in turns. Like Alee, I am curious what a rear strut brace would feel like- especially since i have fold-down rear seats (but probably not THAT curious). I don't think i'm going to be able to resist the temptation to buy 4 more nut covers to top it all off . Yes, as Alee alledges, I am becoming the anti-anti-modder- but atleast I'm sticking w/ OEM parts godammit!! And, of course, like any good mod, this one made my car feel like it had about 10 extra hp.

One other question for all of you strut brace fans--what are those strut "dingleberries" that seem to collect in the strut cavity and how do they get there? I cleaned them out before I installed my brace.

Those are included in the sport package...he he.