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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-29-2008, 05:24 PM
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westwest888 westwest888 is offline
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car-on-lift symbol warning on dash?

Hopped in my car to go to lunch today and the instrument cluster popped up this esoteric warning hieroglyph. It looks like a car jacked up the ceiling on a lift. I presume this means "Inspection 1 soon". Does anyone know for sure? I have 57,000 miles.

Inspection 1 sounds like a load of crap to me. I've already replaced the dampers, the brakes, brake fluid. I figure an oil change, oil filter, and air fliter next time. Anything else?

And how do I make that stupid icon go away?

EDIT: added the icon to this post.
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Last edited by westwest888; 12-31-2008 at 12:41 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-29-2008, 08:32 PM
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AzNMpower32 AzNMpower32 is offline
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Yeah, the vehicle is due for Inspection. I don't think BMW differentiates between Inspection I & II like they used to on the newer BMWs.

To make the icon go away, try hitting the BC button.
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  #3  
Old 12-30-2008, 07:58 AM
BimmerRat BimmerRat is offline
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can you post a picture of the warning icon?
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  #4  
Old 12-30-2008, 08:30 AM
applebimmer applebimmer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westwest888 View Post
Hopped in my car to go to lunch today and the instrument cluster popped up this esoteric warning hieroglyph. It looks like a car jacked up the ceiling on a lift. I presume this means "Inspection 1 soon". Does anyone know for sure? I have 57,000 miles.

Inspection 1 sounds like a load of crap to me. I've already replaced the dampers, the brakes, brake fluid. I figure an oil change, oil filter, and air fliter next time. Anything else?

And how do I make that stupid icon go away?
I can't say for-certain what that actually means but, on the left-side of your steering column you should be able to toggle through your Car inspector’s computer system. It can be done two ways. 1. You can press in the end-side which you are probably already know to get little things like MPG, or AVG SP, and things like that: Now: 2. On that same leaver there is a little notch that goes up and down; So, while the car is running and you’re in park, you can used this up/down function to check on other engine related issues. This functions tells gives you Service Info, Heating and Cooling Temp and fluid levels, emissions, it also shows that symbol you are referring to, so I would check there to see if any info registers. Just my .02.. Hope this helps.
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  #5  
Old 12-30-2008, 08:32 AM
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You're due for your 30k service.
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  #6  
Old 12-30-2008, 03:38 PM
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Right, but I call shenanigans on a 60k service. Exactly what needs to be done?
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  #7  
Old 12-31-2008, 11:01 AM
328Vert_Jim 328Vert_Jim is offline
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Actually, if you could spare a moment to RTFM, you might be a lot more interested in resolving this.

Looks like the car-on-a-lift icon means bad things may be going on. If RED, you might have starter, ignition or lighting system issues. If yellow it could mean brake lights/fuel system/or trailer lighting (?) issues
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2008, 12:06 PM
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westwest888 westwest888 is offline
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Hmm. I just moved so all of my crap is in boxes, and the manual is out of reach for now. But I found the PDF online. I think this is my problem:

Quote:
"The warning lamps light up in red
even though the handbrake has been
released. A message appears on the
Control Display. The brake pads have
reached the safe limit for pad wear. Have brake
pads replaced immediately.
That is odd because I just had the pads replaced. I know there is a pad wear sensor on the front left and right rear discs. It's an electromechanical connection - when a wire is able to press up against the disc, some rubber wears off of it, it makes a connection and it lights up the dash.

I'll have to take a look at what's going on.

I added the icon to the first post.

Last edited by westwest888; 12-31-2008 at 12:42 PM.
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2008, 03:47 PM
328Vert_Jim 328Vert_Jim is offline
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Sounds like you are on the right track. Didn't realize after reading the original post that the icon was accompanied by the "Brake" indication.
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  #10  
Old 12-31-2008, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westwest888 View Post
That is odd because I just had the pads replaced. I know there is a pad wear sensor on the front left and right rear discs. It's an electromechanical connection - when a wire is able to press up against the disc, some rubber wears off of it, it makes a connection and it lights up the dash.
When mine lit up with under 10k mile, the dealer said it was the brake sensor getting confused. They reset the warning, then it came back a thousand miles later and so they upgraded the SW on the car - and never came back since.

This was awhile back, I think the SW was upgraded then from v27.x to v28.x.


Did you replace the brake sensors after replacing the pads? Many people recommend putting in new sensors, not sure why.
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  #11  
Old 12-31-2008, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by adc View Post
When mine lit up with under 10k mile, the dealer said it was the brake sensor getting confused. They reset the warning, then it came back a thousand miles later and so they upgraded the SW on the car - and never came back since.
I wonder if I can reset this myself the same way you reset the oil light.

I went out and checked the pads at lunch. They are about as thick as a deck of cards, which they should be since they are only a month old. You can see your pads by looking inbetween the spokes on the wheels, and looking under the caliper. You'll know when they are wearing down because the clips will be getting close to the rotor; eventually they will contact the rotor and make a squealing sound every time you brake, as a last warning. The outside front left was fine, which is what sensor 1 is connected to. Sensor 2 is connected to the inside rear right pad.

Plenty of brake fluid, and that is new also.
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  #12  
Old 01-01-2009, 10:00 PM
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What a tremendous PITA. My car is in perfectly good working order, but some designed to fail sensor needed to be replaced with the pads. So you have to add $50 and labor to every brake job to replace these sensors that I didn't even know existed until they failed! It seems like needless complication. There's a squeal alarm AND an indicator in the dash of when the pads need to be replaced.

This truly might be my first bona fide frustration with the manufacture of this car.
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  #13  
Old 01-02-2009, 08:57 AM
adc adc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westwest888 View Post
This truly might be my first bona fide frustration with the manufacture of this car.
Hehe, that's because you didn't get the twin turbo motor...

Anyway, I've bought brake sensors before from Zeckhausen and they were around $15-20 per piece (two needed). Replacing them is a matter of removing the wheel, unplugging the sensor at both ends (pad and plug) and from the retaining brackets - a 5 minute job, no more.

The only problem is, this may not necessarily fix the dash warning - in my case, the sensors were the original ones (in perfect working order) and the dealer never replaced them. They simply did a software reset.

Try finding an independent in your area (www.bimrs.org) - if you find a good one, they should be able to rest the warning for a nominal fee (less than $50).
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  #14  
Old 01-02-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by adc View Post
Hehe, that's because you didn't get the twin turbo motor...
No one had a clue about a turbo motor in 2005 when I bought my car. The mere suggestion or forced induction or a model change-up before the LCI was blasphemy. Anyway, my car gets me from A to B in style and around the track quick enough that I want to kiss the ground when I get back to the paddock in one piece.

Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
Try finding an independent in your area (www.bimrs.org) - if you find a good one, they should be able to rest the warning for a nominal fee (less than $50).
I think I'll drive around with the light on until I get my next oil change. I can't devote an entire morning to car diagnostics.
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Old 01-02-2009, 03:40 PM
adc adc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westwest888 View Post
No one had a clue about a turbo motor in 2005 when I bought my car. The mere suggestion or forced induction or a model change-up before the LCI was blasphemy. Anyway, my car gets me from A to B in style and around the track quick enough that I want to kiss the ground when I get back to the paddock in one piece.
I was still driving my ZHP in 2005 and frankly was none the worse for it...

The current 335i is an experiment (lease), to see if I would want the engine longterm. It's fast enough allright, but it lacks in other areas (tires, suspension). I'm still on the fence between a (modified) 135i or a (stock-ish) E90 M3 for my next car.


Good luck with the warning. If you have the time, you could also try a battery reset (disconnect).
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Old 01-02-2009, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adc View Post
I was still driving my ZHP in 2005 and frankly was none the worse for it...

The current 335i is an experiment (lease), to see if I would want the engine longterm. It's fast enough allright, but it lacks in other areas (tires, suspension). I'm still on the fence between a (modified) 135i or a (stock-ish) E90 M3 for my next car.


Good luck with the warning. If you have the time, you could also try a battery reset (disconnect).
I'd really like to replace the 2006 Miata with a 2009 Z4, on the condition I can get it for $1000 over invoice and 0.9% financing. I'd go for the trusty naturally aspirated engine and a 6 speed, mostly because I don't want to pay $7-8k for the turbo. For that price, I'd buy a Cayman or Boxster in the non-S variant.

I couldn't part with my 325i. I have the suspension set up just the way I want it after so much fiddling. When I see a stock e90 M3, all I can think is how I'd be gutting the suspension and brakes to bring it up to snuff.

The 135i is cool because it has nearly a full M tech sport package on it. But it loses some points for only accommodating a 215 width tire on a 7.5" wheel up front. I think 8" is the max, and 8.5" will rub. Not a deal breaker but something to keep in mind. Also, something about the longer wheelbase seems to give the 335i e92 coupe a performance advantage in lap times - it's a better chassis for some reason even though it weighs ever so slightly more. Even more interesting, Turner Motorsports thinks the e90 sedan has better aerodynamics than the coupe because of the way the rear windshield puts downforce on the trunk.

Last edited by westwest888; 01-02-2009 at 05:37 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2009, 08:50 AM
adc adc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westwest888 View Post
The 135i is cool because it has nearly a full M tech sport package on it. But it loses some points for only accommodating a 215 width tire on a 7.5" wheel up front. I think 8" is the max, and 8.5" will rub. Not a deal breaker but something to keep in mind. Also, something about the longer wheelbase seems to give the 335i e92 coupe a performance advantage in lap times - it's a better chassis for some reason even though it weighs ever so slightly more. Even more interesting, Turner Motorsports thinks the e90 sedan has better aerodynamics than the coupe because of the way the rear windshield puts downforce on the trunk.
Yeah, I got that about the sedan, that's why I was thinking about the E90 M3 (well and the significantly lower price of course). I test drove the E90 M3 at Watkins Glen in the rain, on those bumpy and narrow country roads and it was absolutely fantastic. Sure you can always improve things in the suspension department, but right off the showroom floor it blew my mind away - and no understeer whatsoever. Brilliant.

There are a number of posts on e90post and 1addicts about fitting M3 upper/lower front suspension arms, rear subframe bushings, rear sway and other M3 components to the 3 or 1 to make it handle more like the M - meaning banish the understeer while keeping useful suspension travel and correct geometry (and possibly also the warranty intact).

So there are ways to make the 135 or 335 handle very well (as you know by now), but it would still be missing a real diff, and the OEM tires are still crap. So I have to think if a $45k modified 135i makes more or less sense than a $54k stock M3 - right now, I just don't know. The 135i would cost me around $37k for Euro Delivery, but still, $7k in mods is alot of money that I'll never see back...
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