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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 01-28-2009, 11:27 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjjones1 View Post
Does anyone have a method that can be used to get all 4 wheels up on jack stands at the same time?
Thanks
My previous description in this thread used ramps; here's a thread describing the process w/o using ramps ...

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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #27  
Old 01-28-2009, 11:40 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black540eye View Post
Thanks CN90!....the picture is exactly what I was looking for. Appreciate it.
black540eye

Measure your front lip.
In the picture I have 8",8", and 20".
You may want to do 12", 12" and 20". It gives a bit more room for a gradual climb.
You will love it, warranteed.
If you live near a construction jobsite, ask the carpenter for leftover 2x10 (used for floor joists and roof rafters during construction)....then it is free.
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  #28  
Old 01-28-2009, 12:00 PM
onerevn7 onerevn7 is offline
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yeah, I've been using my homemade wood ramp for years on various lowered cars I've had. Sometimes it was still too low to get under and do any work, but it was always high enough to at least get a floor jack under it. Here's a cool jack for lowered cars....

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...+floor+jack.do
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  #29  
Old 01-30-2009, 05:38 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Where does it say in writing not to use the rear differential

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxragtop View Post
BMW states that you should not jack the rear up via the differential.
If you can quote where that recommendation is located in writing, I'd be interested to know because at least three other people in this thread recommended the rear differential.

I used the rear differential myself when I did my four-wheel brake job. I didn't see anywhere else (surely not the gas tank! ...

If you can find a written statement from BMW that says not to use the rear differential, that would be enlightening (especially to hear what they suggest to use otherwise)....
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #30  
Old 01-30-2009, 07:50 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
If you can quote where that recommendation is located in writing, I'd be interested to know because at least three other people in this thread recommended the rear differential.

I used the rear differential myself when I did my four-wheel brake job. I didn't see anywhere else (surely not the gas tank! ...

If you can find a written statement from BMW that says not to use the rear differential, that would be enlightening (especially to hear what they suggest to use otherwise)....
I think all the hype about this is not to place the jack under the ribs of the diff (where the 2 halfs mate). Doing so, one would deform the diff.

0.02
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TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
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  #31  
Old 01-30-2009, 08:34 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
I think all the hype about this is not to place the jack under the ribs of the diff (where the 2 halfs mate). Doing so, one would deform the diff.

0.02
Hmmmm... Is my picture below in the right spot?

I am not under the car right now so I can't tell if the two halves mate with the line perpendicular to the axle or parallel. From the pic, it looks like that mating line is parallel, which would mean a jack centered on the differential would have half the differential on each side of the jack head.

__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #32  
Old 01-30-2009, 08:44 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Hmmmm... Is my picture below in the right spot?
I don't know. I cannot see clear enough from that pic. This why one would have to use a piece of wood, or wrap the jack head with a sturdy cloth. Also, some jacks have the head wrapped in rubber.
I still make sure it does not touch that mating surface (once the jack engages slightly to the diff, I crawl to see where it touches). If it's OK, I continue lifting. If not, i just reposition it.
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Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby
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  #33  
Old 11-16-2010, 02:41 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Jacking on the REAR DIFF is safe because the REAR DIFF is attached to the REAR Subframe via 3 bushings. The Subframe is attached to the Chassis via 4 Areas.

When you place a floor jack below the Rear Diff, you place a VERTICAL Load on the Rear Diff Casing: Arrows #1, 2, 3 in red.

This in turn applies Vertical Load on Subframe attachment points to the Chassis: Areas #4, 5, 6, 7 in Blue.

See picture:

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  #34  
Old 11-16-2010, 04:44 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
If you can quote where that recommendation is located in writing, I'd be interested to know because at least three other people in this thread recommended the rear differential.

If you can find a written statement from BMW that says not to use the rear differential, that would be enlightening (especially to hear what they suggest to use otherwise)....
Here is the written statement from the BMW TIS: (seems to be hosted on photobucket so may disappear in the future)

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...0&postcount=33

This only issue I have with Cam's physics is the load on the Arrows #1,2,3 in Red can compress the rubber just above the bolts possibly tearing older rubber away from the subframe. This concentration of weight upward at 3 points before spreading out over the subframe can be an issue with worn out bushings, in which case the bushings need to be replaced anyway just like all rubber bushings on the car after 6 or more years and driving conditions.

Last edited by dvsgene; 11-16-2010 at 04:49 PM.
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  #35  
Old 11-16-2010, 04:51 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
you place a VERTICAL Load on the Rear Diff Casing: Arrows #1, 2, 3 in red. This in turn applies Vertical Load on Subframe attachment points to the Chassis: Areas #4, 5, 6, 7 in Blue.
Wow. I love the detail ... and the diagrammatic explanation!

(I don't understand it one bit ... but I love it ... and if I was under the car right now jacking it up, I'd be trying to figure out what Cam said ... step by step.)


Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsgene View Post
hosted on photobucket so may disappear in the future)
It bothers me to no end when a reference picture disappears from the net! I hate it so much, that, over the years, I've taken to the (time consuming) habit of downloading the reference pictures while they still exist, shrinking the photos to about 640x480 and the text shots to about 800x600 if necessary) and then uploading them here.

For example, here are the most prominent E39 jack-point pictures I know of that we would wish to re-reference over time. (Note that the 1999 BMWs are different (see below) than the rest.)
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Last edited by bluebee; 11-16-2010 at 05:09 PM.
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  #36  
Old 06-06-2011, 09:31 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, this thread has wonderful ideas for safely jacking up the rear:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Alternate jack point
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