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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-04-2009, 05:04 PM
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chiefwej chiefwej is offline
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Central Locking out - Body Control Module?

My Central locking system is not working.

The remote does NOT lock or unlock the car..
The center console locking button does NOT work.
I CAN lock (and unlock) all doors from the driver's door with the key.
The fuse for the central locking system (#53) was NOT blown.

My indie mechanic thinks it's the Body Control Module (GM III). Before I spend several hundred dollars to replace it, does anyone have other ideas or suggestions.
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2009, 07:29 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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When you lock the door with the key...if you walk around to the fuel filler door...can you still open it? If so, the problem is the fuel filler door actuator. Undo the electrical connector to it's actuator...then try to lock your car with the remote and see if it works. Perhaps it's not blowing fuse #53...but could still be the culprit.

See #17 in the diagram below...it's the fuel filler door actuator...access it by opening the battery compartment door and looking on the rear fender for it.

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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 02-04-2009 at 07:33 PM.
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  #3  
Old 02-04-2009, 08:02 PM
mbc mbc is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 540i sport
for what its worth i had same symptoms

and the general control module was the culprit. Had to have it replaced around 6-8 months ago.

03' 540 sport with 33k miles that I bought 2 years ago with 29k miles on it... go figure, but then again I've also had:

alarm module fail
radiator fail, water pump fail, replaced exapnsion tank at the same time
twisted seat
pixels replaced
other things I'm sure I'm forgetting

yada, yada, yada - - still love the car and glad i bought an extended warranty! Been a fun 4,000 miles!

mbc
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2009, 12:15 AM
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chiefwej chiefwej is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
When you lock the door with the key...if you walk around to the fuel filler door...can you still open it? If so, the problem is the fuel filler door actuator. Undo the electrical connector to it's actuator...then try to lock your car with the remote and see if it works. Perhaps it's not blowing fuse #53...but could still be the culprit.

See #17 in the diagram below...it's the fuel filler door actuator...access it by opening the battery compartment door and looking on the rear fender for it.
No the gas door actuator is working properly.
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  #5  
Old 03-17-2009, 09:42 AM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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Unhappy Central lock and remote issue

I am having the same problem. I have searched high and low on the board.

My car will not unlock or lock using the remote ( any and all doors do not lock except using the key in the tumbler)..however the trunk will lock and unlock using the key instead of the as well as the gas door lock and unlock, when I use the key.

Gas door is out as a possible problem.

My central console lock in the car also does not work and all fuses appear to be fine. Including fuse #53 and it is not blown at all.

I have taken apart my remote key only to find the battery is in fact charging. I guess if it didn't I would not be able to open and lock the trunk using the remote?


1 of two things based on what I have heard:

1. GM module ( where is it located in the car?)
2. Driver side door actuator ( does this control the central locking and all doors?)

Can anyone give me the definitive answer before I spend a bundle having the dealer look at it then feel really dumb because it was one of these items?

Regards,

David
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  #6  
Old 03-17-2009, 09:56 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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The GM is located on the fire wall below/behind the glove box.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #7  
Old 03-17-2009, 10:35 AM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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Qsilver, Do I have to take the glove box out to get it?

And Is the car ok to run without it?


Do I need the exact part number to replace it, or can I use one from like a 7 series, to save alittle money...thanks,

David
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  #8  
Old 03-17-2009, 11:16 AM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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I think all you need to do is remove the panel below the glove box to access the components on the firewall.

As far as running the car without the GM...I actually don't know? :dunno (you stumped me)

If using a GM from a 7 series...I'd do a quick part nbr cross reference (use www.realoem.com). The GM is known for having a lot of part nbrs...many of them don't register using the part database...BUT...if you can find that the GMs for the 7 & 5 built during the same time period share the same part nbr...then you'll probably have good luck.

Also double check if the GM for the 6 cylinder e39s is different than the ones for the V8. If this is the case..then the ones from the 7 series won't work.

Good luck.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #9  
Old 03-17-2009, 11:47 AM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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Thanks Qsilver!

I just realized that I sent the owner of BMWgm5.com and email regarding the General Module 3.

He replied that the GM 3 does not control the front door lock actuators. It only controls the rear door lock actuators unlike the GM5 of the e46's.

Should I look at the door lock actuators, first?

Regards and thanks again.

Last edited by daveyto; 03-17-2009 at 11:48 AM. Reason: spelling
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  #10  
Old 03-18-2009, 08:52 AM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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Smile

I bought a used GM III module from ebay last night.

Cost $38 bucks and worth a try anyway. If it turns out the relays are done I can replace them. Thye are a hell of a lot like the ones I replaced in a microwave many years ago...lol

Actually probably the same...about $7.00 each anyhow...

I will let everyone on the board know how it went once I do the swap.

regards and thanks to all who gave help
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  #11  
Old 03-21-2009, 06:02 PM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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Question

Haven t received the module yet but I have been thinking that the door lock actuator may be bad based on another users post here...could explain the dead battery after couple of hours

any ideas???? Anyone out there???

regards
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2009, 08:36 PM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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ok so I disconnected the central locking fuses in the glove box...car battery does not seem to drain as fast...though this morning I started the car fine without a boost..>then I stoped it...Then tried to restart...ad nothing...had to boost again!!!!!!

Does anyone know if this may be a bad ground? I have had the battery tested and it turned out to be fine...I will try grounding the car...yet again

regARDS
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2009, 09:55 AM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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same problem...playing with fuses...

Haven't replace the GM yet but plan doing it tonight...

Will let everyone know what comes of it....

Need to know if it has to be recoded?

I read on here that the module needs a rest from the dealer???

I do not think so..but will post my results


regards
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  #14  
Old 04-03-2009, 12:26 AM
michaelyong michaelyong is offline
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I have a 525 01, but mine problem is a bit different!

1) the remote works fine! It close and open all the time with the remote.
2) when you drive the door sometime will and sometime will not close for passenger and driver side.
3) if you press the door lock button in side the lock for front passenger and drive sometimes will lock sometime wont!
4)Drive side sometimes can open and close passenger window.
5)side mirror also not functioning all time.

Please advice

Last edited by michaelyong; 04-03-2009 at 12:32 AM.
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  #15  
Old 04-03-2009, 06:40 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelyong View Post
I have a 525 01, but mine problem is a bit different!

1) the remote works fine! It close and open all the time with the remote.
2) when you drive the door sometime will and sometime will not close for passenger and driver side.
3) if you press the door lock button in side the lock for front passenger and drive sometimes will lock sometime wont!
4)Drive side sometimes can open and close passenger window.
5)side mirror also not functioning all time.

Please advice
This sounds even more like a GM given the other issues. It could be, too, that your actuators are almost dead.
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  #16  
Old 04-04-2009, 09:42 AM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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Folks good news...replaced the gm 3...All locking works...dome light even works and door lights now work. The only thing is I cannot lock the car using the remote.

I don't believe the module needs reprogramming as it worked right away...the key initalization proceedure worked first time with the new module in.

IF anyone needs help send me a note

regards and thanks to all who helped
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  #17  
Old 04-04-2009, 11:17 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Thread hijacks are cnfusing me.

I thought the module needed coding. Good to know. Let us know if it does, eventually.

I don't think that it's particularly safe to drive without the GMIII; it has some safety functions that get fired off in case of accident.
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  #18  
Old 05-30-2009, 06:06 AM
stankyspanks stankyspanks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveyto View Post
Folks good news...replaced the gm 3...All locking works...dome light even works and door lights now work. The only thing is I cannot lock the car using the remote.

I don't believe the module needs reprogramming as it worked right away...the key initalization proceedure worked first time with the new module in.

IF anyone needs help send me a note

regards and thanks to all who helped
how much did the stealer charge u to do that because im having the saaame problem.. except my rear doors only lock and unlock and all windows besides the driver side do not work. and just today the sunroof wasng opening.
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  #19  
Old 11-06-2009, 12:43 PM
daveyto daveyto is offline
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sorry for the late reply ...you can do this all yourself just search how to replace the GM module.

If you can't find it let me know....no reprogramming involved
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2012, 06:28 AM
afallas afallas is offline
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I own a 530i 2003 and had the same problem (keyfob not working, central locking not working, etc).
Got a used GM on ebay from a 528i 1997 and everything seems to work fine now BUT the steering is to heavy now. By looking at the diagrams of the GM I see it controls the Servotronic.
Does anyone know if I need to reprogram the GM or is it just that the one I got doesn't support the Servotronic?
One thing I noticed is that the HW and SW version of this GM are lower than the original one.

I know I should looked for a GM from the same car I have but that was the "best fit" I found on ebay when I looked for it. I live in Costa Rica and BMW parts here are extremely expensive (a used GM is about $300 and haven't even ask the dealer).

Thanks for the help.
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  #21  
Old 08-07-2013, 09:18 AM
Hodge83 Hodge83 is offline
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I know this thread has been put on hold for a while, but I need some answers. I am considering buying a used GMIII unit off ebay. How much does the part number matter? The amount of different part numbers is ridiculous!
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  #22  
Old 09-09-2013, 09:39 AM
JLBimmer JLBimmer is offline
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I have a 1997 528I. replaced the body control module. but my alarm keeps going off still and doors are double locked. the drivers side is the only door that can open. the trunk will still open with the key, but nothing else. had to pull the fuse out to stop the sound on the alarm. also bought a door actuator for the drivers side. not sure if this will correct the problem or not. read on here that may be the issue. has anyone had this problem? NEED some help here and can't afford to take to shop
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  #23  
Old 09-09-2013, 10:11 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Sounds like you've put a lot of parts into the problem.

I haven't had this particular issue, as my only central-locking problem was due to the trunk wiring:
- How to repair your frayed trunk wiring loom (1)

What I can do is reference the BMW training on the EWS system, in case that helps:
- BMW training on the EWS alarm drive away protection system (pdf)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #24  
Old 09-09-2013, 10:45 AM
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doru doru is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLBimmer View Post
I have a 1997 528I. replaced the body control module. but my alarm keeps going off still and doors are double locked. the drivers side is the only door that can open. the trunk will still open with the key, but nothing else. had to pull the fuse out to stop the sound on the alarm. also bought a door actuator for the drivers side. not sure if this will correct the problem or not. read on here that may be the issue. has anyone had this problem? NEED some help here and can't afford to take to shop
For the alarm, check the switch that's under the hood. It might not close when the hood is closed, or it might be busted. Worth a try. Go from there.
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  #25  
Old 09-09-2013, 04:44 PM
scottjoh scottjoh is offline
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Central Locking out - Body Control Module?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Sounds like you've put a lot of parts into the problem.

I haven't had this particular issue, as my only central-locking problem was due to the trunk wiring:
- How to repair your frayed trunk wiring loom (1)

What I can do is reference the BMW training on the EWS system, in case that helps:
- BMW training on the EWS alarm drive away protection system (pdf)
Bluebee,
The Alarm/siren has nothing to do with the EWS and reading that document will not help JLBimmer for the problem he is asking about and I doubt that frayed wires to the trunk is causing the problem either.

JLBimmer,
The most common cause of the alarm getting tripped and sounding is the hood switch located on the left side cabin air filter housing. Disconnect the switch and see if the alarm continues to trip for no apparent reason. If it does then I suggest you take the car in to have the fault code in the ZKE module read. The shadow code area will have the reason for the alarm and if BMW software is used to read the code (INPA or GT1) it will tell you the number of occurrences. If you use PA Soft or Carsoft it won't. Looking at the number of occurrences will help you narrow down the cause in the case you have multiple alarm trip codes.

Last edited by scottjoh; 09-09-2013 at 04:47 PM.
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