Whats Worng ?

BMW e46 328i 99

Cleaned ICV valve .
Tested Va nos Removed housing looked at o ring No problem Changed Vanos Gasket while I was there .
Put 12v to vanos Little pins stick out then move up and down when pressure is on them Both intake and exhaust vanos .

Cam sensors both of them have been removed and exchanged for new ones ?

The Fault code i get is p1525 Axillary something manf speed control, idle speed control . BMW code 21 ?,

What is wrong could it be the Vanos Power Suplly ?
If so what is the diagram to repair ?

Also need to change Oil Filter Housing Gasket. as well i dotn think its related

Cant pass SMOG in TX till CEL is cleared and it comes on as soon as I turn it on !!!!

Looks like you might have a broken wire to the Vanos intake solenoid IMO.
P1525 = "A" Camshaft position ACTUATOR control circuit OPEN

Looks like if you can find pin 41 on the DME, then you can check continuity between pin 2 on the intake solenoid and pin 41. Make sure your pins are clean on the Vanos and you have them inserted all the way.

Pic of Bentley manual schematic

I went to the delaer they said my DME needs to be cleared of fault codes after I changed my cashaft so any reality to this... On the Vanos the Red wire jhas 12v the yeloow and blue has no power?

You are a100% right P!525 Open Circuit ...

Can Anyone post a DIY for the DME do i need to drill ?

What in the Bloddy heck are you going on about!!!!

Your DME / OBD2 according to your ramblings needs to be reset so that you can tell what codes reappear due to what ever is causeing a fault in your car. What the hell are you talking about drilling. Take your car to the dealer or to a independent mechanic. Pay them to fix your car and then drive home with a smile on your face.

Edit: Sorry if this sounds harsh. It is really hard to tell what you are talking about and your suggestions are off the wall.

Originally Posted by steve323i99

What in the Bloddy heck are you going on about!!!!

Your DME / OBD2 according to your ramblings needs to be reset so that you can tell what codes reappear due to what ever is causeing a fault in your car. What the hell are you talking about drilling. Take your car to the dealer or to a independent mechanic. Pay them to fix your car and then drive home with a smile on your face.

Edit: Sorry if this sounds harsh. It is really hard to tell what you are talking about and your suggestions are off the wall.

+1 it's hard for us to help when we can't really understand what you're saying... Proper sentence structure helps..

Originally Posted by steve323i99

What in the Bloddy heck are you going on about!!!!

Your DME / OBD2 according to your ramblings needs to be reset so that you can tell what codes reappear due to what ever is causeing a fault in your car. What the hell are you talking about drilling. Take your car to the dealer or to a independent mechanic. Pay them to fix your car and then drive home with a smile on your face.

Edit: Sorry if this sounds harsh. It is really hard to tell what you are talking about and your suggestions are off the wall.

Ok Dude the guy who I talked to was a master Technician at BMW . HE said by law any OBD 2 Scanner should clear the DME, of all fault codes that BS about the DME 20pin connector needs to be used is wrong . Also The fault is a p1525 indicating a circuit malfunction. I tested the Vanos ( Both ) with a 12 V connection and also tested the hydrolic pin as well all works it clicking good . ... wipe a 400 part off my list. Then I replaced the Cam Sensor Intake it worked for a minute then it came back on (CEL) meaning DME problem or wiring problem . Anyone have a DIY for DME replacement the one on pelican parts wants me to drill ?wtf ? and also the location of relay fuses .

Also all i have is one fault code p1525 Bank A Circuit open and these are the Diy i did my self

Radiator ,
Spark plugs , Oil Valve Gasket , Hose repair , CCV Valve ,Cleaned my ICV . CPS Both ,
Tranny cooling line , (with help) Tensinors, Vanos Gasket , I also re soldered the faulty part in the Ac Unit inside the car ...




THX .

ok. 1: I am pretty sure that you do not need to replace your DME (which is I belive an older referance to the OBD2 computers that are in newer cars). The p1525 Code is more than likely pointing to a faulty sensor some where. Camshaft position sensor more than likely. Still researching for you to see what else I can find.

Edit you'll also need to look into either picking up an OBD2 scanner/code reader so that you can erase the faults and then drive around to make sure that the fault either a) comes back and is truely an issue or b) does not come back because it was fixed with previous maint.

P1525 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Control Open Circuit Bank 1 (BMW)

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...oon-light-just

Hello. I have found the fault code listing and it is exactly as you described. No service bulletins relate to this fault code. This fault sounds like it would only be a camshaft sensor internal fault as this is the most common problem. If you use a BMW dealership they will be able to see a lot more information and run a specific test plan provided by BMW to determine if the sensor is good or bad and if further diag. will be needed. Most likely this will only be a sensor replacement. The sensor is pretty accessable, most dealers would charge an initial 1 hour diag and about .75-1 hour for replacement. If you would like I can find the general price of the part tomorrow at work for you but I will need the last seven of the Vin to check this. Most likely this will be pretty straight forward repair, if it proves to be more than the sensor like wiring, internal control module failure, or mechanical at the pickup on the cam could be possible but unlikely. Most of the time it is cut and dry with this fault. I hope this is helpful. Let me know if you need any more information I can try to help you with.Thank you.



P1525 10165 'A' Camshaft Position Actuator Control Open Circuit (Bank 1)

Originally Posted by steve323i99

Edit you'll also need to look into either picking up an OBD2 scanner/code reader so that you can erase the faults and then drive around to make sure that the fault either a) comes back and is truely an issue or b) does not come back because it was fixed with previous maint.

EXACTLY!!! The code won't clear no matter how many parts you replace. You need to clear it. If you replaced both CPSs and didn't clear the codes, they'll never go away.

Also check this out. http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c152801b2470 tells you all about the Camshaft sensor and how to fix. Good luck

You think I didn't clear them after I installed them ?
It comes on when I turn it on , I replaced the CPS and FYI it clears itself after a cycle is complete...
It probly is the sensor

Thank You for the Auto zone Info it gave me the resistance....
Its weird if i put my old camshaft back in i get the code cleared whn I strart then when I turn it off and try again it happens again its back on ...
GRRRRR>

Originally Posted by Gthbarcode3

You think I didn't clear them after I installed them ?
It comes on when I turn it on , I replaced the CPS and FYI it clears itself after a cycle is complete...
It probly is the sensor

Thank You for the Auto zone Info it gave me the resistance....
Its weird if i put my old camshaft back in i get the code cleared whn I strart then when I turn it off and try again it happens again its back on ...
GRRRRR>

Knock knock, remember me....I still think you have a bad wire from the sensor to the computer....pin 40 or 41

Originally Posted by Gthbarcode3

I tested the Vanos ( Both ) with a 12 V connection and also tested the hydrolic pin as well all works it clicking good . ... wipe a 400 part off my list.

It's sentences like this one.......

Did you use OEM CPS sensors? Aftermarket CPS sensors have not been working.
When you say you replace the vanos gasket, do you mean you installed the Beisan seals kit?

I bought a $500 Engine Wire Harness and had a shop put it in New Sensor OCnectors Whoo hoo ... Problem gone ...

No I meant the Gasket that connects the vanos to the rest of the engine .