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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-25-2009, 05:06 PM
santinobruno santinobruno is offline
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540IT HELP! rear air suspension sagging on both sides!

The self level suspension inactive light came on and then both sides are sitting like this.

does nothing when i turn the car on.

i read la528it's Touring Airbag DIY, do you think that could be the problem?? Any suggestions?





best regards,
Santino
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  #2  
Old 02-25-2009, 05:20 PM
jsayreshepherd jsayreshepherd is offline
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Does the pump run when you turn the car on? Just turn the key to the accessory position, open up the tailgate and listen. If it's a blown bag you should hear the hum of the pump and a hissing from the air escaping the blown bags.

Curious that both sides went at the same time.
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2009, 06:03 PM
santinobruno santinobruno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsayreshepherd View Post
Does the pump run when you turn the car on? Just turn the key to the accessory position, open up the tailgate and listen. If it's a blown bag you should hear the hum of the pump and a hissing from the air escaping the blown bags.

Curious that both sides went at the same time.
both sides are low. i know its kind of crazy at the same time. but the computer says "Self Level Susp Inact" so when i turn the car on it doesnt even try to boot up. i was told to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes then turn on the car and listen to see if it tries to pump up the bags. I'm going to try this tomorrow and see if it works. any suggestions on that? you think it may be the fuses making it not work? or what other things do you think i should diagnose.

thanks for the response.
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  #4  
Old 02-25-2009, 06:14 PM
Stopbreakindown Stopbreakindown is offline
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It is what it is, self leveling. I had the passenger side bag go not to long ago and the system automatically deflated the good one to level it out. If you were to jack the car up the compressor will kick on and fill the good one and you will hear hissing coming from the bad one. Replace in pairs if you can afford it.

I also think they have sport air springs and non-sport so make sure you get the one you need
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  #5  
Old 02-26-2009, 04:38 AM
armstm0 armstm0 is offline
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when my airbag failed, the computer decided it had tried pumping it up for too long and did "self level susp inaactive".
I changed both air springs myself, when car was re-started it pumped them up to the correct level, and they've been as good as new since.
give the dealer the chasis number and they should tell you which springs you need (sports v standard)
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  #6  
Old 02-26-2009, 05:05 AM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
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Check the fuses
Check the electrical connections to EHC control module (next to battery & spare tire)
Check the air pipes (blue and orange) at the junction (next to battery) and top of the air springs.
Check the ride height sensor attached to the rear suspension.
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  #7  
Old 02-26-2009, 05:50 AM
99WAGON 99WAGON is offline
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do both at the same time, they are like 170 a piece for the sports one, but you can do the job your self it is easy.
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  #8  
Old 02-26-2009, 06:37 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Free lowering

honestly, doesn't look that bad like that, but I bet it rides like a tank.
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  #9  
Old 07-14-2012, 01:31 AM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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BMW e39 528it sports touring wagon rear air bag self-leveling issue

I had my rear self leveling sports air bags replaced new about 30K ago and I have noticed only in cooler temperatures the rear driver's side drops a bit loosing some air over night but as soon as I open the drivers door the rear suspension automatically levels right back and holds to the proper hight. It doesn't seem like it's anything serious or damaged cause it doesn't happen when outdoor temperature is warm and air expands. I hoping it's somthing I can adjust or tighten to cure this.

Does anyone know enough about these rear suspension air bags to tell me if there air lines or fittings that can be tightened or adjusted to solve the issue.

THX

Last edited by pfoto; 07-14-2012 at 01:33 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-14-2012, 07:48 AM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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OP-There seems to be a rash of rear air suspension problems at this time on both this forum and Bimmerforums. Take a look at the threads that are active now. Jack up the rear of your car, remove both rear wheels and inspect the black air springs. If the rubber is badly cracked and/or the threads are starting to show through the rubber, you need both bags replaced. As others have mentioned, an easy DIY.

pfoto-you obviously have an air leak somewhere. Were the new springs installed correctly? When the car is sagging, you need to remove the carpeted panel directly behind the rear seats, put some dish detergent and a bit of water in a cup, get an old paint brush and start painting this soapy solution on all the air junctions and other sealing points in the SLS system. You'll need to get into the spare tire well too but I'd start with those connections under the parcel shelf first. Don't just go around tightening stuff-these plastic fittings break easily. If you see a bunch of bubbles at a connector, that is your leak(s). Tighten carefully until the leak stops. You might want to completely disconnect the leaking fitting to make sure it is absolutely clean-no specs of dirt/grit allowed.
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  #11  
Old 07-14-2012, 08:43 AM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
OP-There seems to be a rash of rear air suspension problems at this time on both this forum and Bimmerforums. Take a look at the threads that are active now. Jack up the rear of your car, remove both rear wheels and inspect the black air springs. If the rubber is badly cracked and/or the threads are starting to show through the rubber, you need both bags replaced. As others have mentioned, an easy DIY.

pfoto-you obviously have an air leak somewhere. Were the new springs installed correctly? When the car is sagging, you need to remove the carpeted panel directly behind the rear seats, put some dish detergent and a bit of water in a cup, get an old paint brush and start painting this soapy solution on all the air junctions and other sealing points in the SLS system. You'll need to get into the spare tire well too but I'd start with those connections under the parcel shelf first. Don't just go around tightening stuff-these plastic fittings break easily. If you see a bunch of bubbles at a connector, that is your leak(s). Tighten carefully until the leak stops. You might want to completely disconnect the leaking fitting to make sure it is absolutely clean-no specs of dirt/grit allowed.
Thanks for reply johnstern. I have noticed the problem in the first year after the new air bags were replaced when the weather got colder so I doubt very much the air bags has anything to do with wear or cracking. When it does leak overnight only in cold temperature the rear end on one side only drops about an inch. I am assuming that one of the lines/fittings were not tightened 100% during installation. This leak is so minor I may have to wait till the colder weather comes around again for it to happen or when the leak gets extremely noticeable cause right now there is no sign of leak during the warm months when air expands and holds pressure perfectly.

I appreciate your input and will take your advise to trouble shoot the situation.

Thx

Last edited by pfoto; 07-14-2012 at 08:47 AM.
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  #12  
Old 07-14-2012, 10:12 PM
all_parts_euro all_parts_euro is offline
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Op

1 Question for you - Do you know that the bags were replaced with new items and not used or refurbished?

If you are sure then I remember there being no fittings that can be tightened.
The system is under a pretty good amount of pressure. When I did my replacement for the same reason, releasing the airline from the upper connection point of the bag caused a pretty good blast of air at a high rate of speed.

The pump and connections are pretty easily accessible, if you suspect an issue in the line, remove the back floor cover and rear seats to access the pump so you can listen for leaks. Otherwise since it seems to be related to the cold I believe you have some light cracking on the bag itself.

The job is not the hardest in the world, but be very careful removing the lines, there is a special clip right at the airbag connection that seems to break and is not available at the dealership unless you purchase a new airbag.

Good luck!
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2012, 01:01 AM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all_parts_euro View Post
1 Question for you - Do you know that the bags were replaced with new items and not used or refurbished?

If you are sure then I remember there being no fittings that can be tightened.
The system is under a pretty good amount of pressure. When I did my replacement for the same reason, releasing the airline from the upper connection point of the bag caused a pretty good blast of air at a high rate of speed.

The pump and connections are pretty easily accessible, if you suspect an issue in the line, remove the back floor cover and rear seats to access the pump so you can listen for leaks. Otherwise since it seems to be related to the cold I believe you have some light cracking on the bag itself.

The job is not the hardest in the world, but be very careful removing the lines, there is a special clip right at the airbag connection that seems to break and is not available at the dealership unless you purchase a new airbag.

Good luck!
Thanks for your reply. Yes, the bags were installed as new by my BMW technician which I trust but sometimes anything can happen. Right now with the warm weather there is absolutely no issues at all with airbag leak, so there is no way I could detect anything wrong till the winter months if it happens again. When it did loose air on one side it only dropped about an inch or two and happened randomly a few times when car was sitting overnight in cold weather. Once the door was opened the air restored itself and held pressure.

I guess the situation is so minor at this point that I should not worry about it for now. Sometimes issues have to get progressively worse for the problem to obvious, but thank you very much for the instructions and tips cause I will definitely refer to your reply when it looses air again that's for sure. Your reply is the best advise I have received and it will also help others who come across this thread.

Thx

Last edited by pfoto; 07-15-2012 at 01:04 AM.
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2012, 01:03 AM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by all_parts_euro View Post
1 Question for you - Do you know that the bags were replaced with new items and not used or refurbished?

If you are sure then I remember there being no fittings that can be tightened.
The system is under a pretty good amount of pressure. When I did my replacement for the same reason, releasing the airline from the upper connection point of the bag caused a pretty good blast of air at a high rate of speed.

The pump and connections are pretty easily accessible, if you suspect an issue in the line, remove the back floor cover and rear seats to access the pump so you can listen for leaks. Otherwise since it seems to be related to the cold I believe you have some light cracking on the bag itself.

The job is not the hardest in the world, but be very careful removing the lines, there is a special clip right at the airbag connection that seems to break and is not available at the dealership unless you purchase a new airbag.

Good luck!
Thanks for your reply. Yes, the bags were installed as new by my BMW technician which I trust but sometimes anything can happen. Right now with the warm weather there is absolutely no issues at all with airbag leak, so there is no way I could detect anything wrong till the winter months if it happens again. When it did loose air on one side it only dropped about an inch or two and happened randomly a few times when car was sitting overnight in cold weather. Once the door was opened the air restored itself and held pressure.

I guess the situation is so minor at this point that I should not worry about it for now. Sometimes issues have to get progressively worse for the problem to obvious, but thank you very much for the instructions and tips cause I will definitely refer to your reply when it looses air again that's for sure. Your reply is the best advise I have received and will also help others who come across this thread.

Thx
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2012, 07:26 AM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Just trying to be helpful.

There are air line connectors at each quick release fitting located at the top of each air spring. These connectors should be loosened to let the air out of the system before removing the quick release fittings to minimize the possibility of injury or fitting damage. The connectors should be retightened once ALL the air has escaped. The newer quick release fittings to not have these connectors (the line and quick release are all one piece) but the ones on a 99 Touring have the air line connectors. There are also connectors at the air distribution block located on the right (passenger) side of the spare tire well. Loosening these will also bleed the air out of the SLS system.

There is no reason to remove the rear seat when working on the SLS system-it will provide you no access to SLS parts. The pump, etc. is located in the spare tire well under a black plastic dome. The SLS controller and the air distribution block are located on the right side of the spare tire well, as I mentioned earlier. The rest of the system can be accessed by removing the panel immediately being the rear seat. You have to remove both front cargo hold downs at the front corners of the panel to remove it.

Read this-an excellent DIY on replacing Touring air springs:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=942496

It would be very helpful to you guys to pick up a copy of the E39 Bentley Repair Manual. It is a little pricey but has a wealth of info that will save you time and money. Sometimes you can get a used copy on eBay for a reduced price.
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  #16  
Old 07-15-2012, 09:08 AM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Just trying to be helpful.

There are air line connectors at each quick release fitting located at the top of each air spring. These connectors should be loosened to let the air out of the system before removing the quick release fittings to minimize the possibility of injury or fitting damage. The connectors should be retightened once ALL the air has escaped. The newer quick release fittings to not have these connectors (the line and quick release are all one piece) but the ones on a 99 Touring have the air line connectors. There are also connectors at the air distribution block located on the right (passenger) side of the spare tire well. Loosening these will also bleed the air out of the SLS system.

There is no reason to remove the rear seat when working on the SLS system-it will provide you no access to SLS parts. The pump, etc. is located in the spare tire well under a black plastic dome. The SLS controller and the air distribution block are located on the right side of the spare tire well, as I mentioned earlier. The rest of the system can be accessed by removing the panel immediately being the rear seat. You have to remove both front cargo hold downs at the front corners of the panel to remove it.

Read this-an excellent DIY on replacing Touring air springs:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=942496

It would be very helpful to you guys to pick up a copy of the E39 Bentley Repair Manual. It is a little pricey but has a wealth of info that will save you time and money. Sometimes you can get a used copy on eBay for a reduced price.

More great advise & tips johnstern. You definitely know your stuff.

I do have a question. Is it possible that these connector fittings were not fully tightened when installed and be the cause of a leak or do they just quick connect without option of tightening them, if they can be tightened, are you advising to release the air and remove the connectors and reconnect and tighten them again to assure a better seal?

Thanks again
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  #17  
Old 07-15-2012, 10:18 AM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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It is possible that when your shop loosened the connectors to let the air out of the system, they didn't tighten them quite enough. It is also possible that a small piece of dirt, debris got into one of the quick disconnects (one at the top of each air spring) causing an air leak.

As you have noted, ther is no problem now with warm weather. I'd wait until the system starts leaking, take that panel off behind the rear seat, and paint the tops of the air springs (connector nuts and quick disconnects) with your soapy solution. A growing pile of bubbles will tell you where the leak is.

Good luck.

BTW-We have 3 E39 Tourings in our family, all with the SLS system. It is a very reliable system but the oldest Tour (99 528iT w/164K miles) has taught me alot.

Last edited by johnstern; 07-15-2012 at 10:22 AM.
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  #18  
Old 07-15-2012, 04:56 PM
pfoto pfoto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
It is possible that when your shop loosened the connectors to let the air out of the system, they didn't tighten them quite enough. It is also possible that a small piece of dirt, debris got into one of the quick disconnects (one at the top of each air spring) causing an air leak.

As you have noted, ther is no problem now with warm weather. I'd wait until the system starts leaking, take that panel off behind the rear seat, and paint the tops of the air springs (connector nuts and quick disconnects) with your soapy solution. A growing pile of bubbles will tell you where the leak is.

Good luck.

BTW-We have 3 E39 Tourings in our family, all with the SLS system. It is a very reliable system but the oldest Tour (99 528iT w/164K miles) has taught me alot.
Thanks again for the great advice, very helpful. Yes, I will wait till the problem arises again.

Well, your'e definitely the guy I need to talk to first on a 528it before doing hands on work on my car. I just recently replaced the windshield pump motors and what a lesson learned there. I went onto these forums to first educate myself on DIY E39 replacement washer motors and thought I had it all altogether but instead I got a big surprise. I was made to believe that all the E39 washer pumps & reservoir would be the same as the way these guys posted their photos & instructions, not quite. I went to buy all the parts needed as they recommended on the site but when I went to actually do the installation on my 528it I discovered there were not 1 but there were 2 washer motors(2nd was back hatch washer motor) and lucky there wasn't a 3rd motor to deal with which would of been for the headlamp washer if I had that option. Anyway, I had to order more parts and take everything apart twice to finish the job, it was a bit of a hassle but at least the job got finally done.

Thx.

Last edited by pfoto; 07-15-2012 at 05:04 PM.
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  #19  
Old 07-20-2013, 09:54 PM
MBones MBones is offline
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my 98 540i and air suspension

Hi, I am new to this forum and new to BMW's.. I recently bought a 1998 540i.. love it.. I noticed that the fuses in the trunk for "air suspension" were not in.. so i put the fuses in.. i havent noticed anything and there are no lights on my dash saying anything or doing anything different.. how can you tell if its working? and is it damaging to the car to run with the fuses out.. i have driven it around for 2 months with out the two fuses..
Thanks
Mike
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:13 AM
Aussie528iT Aussie528iT is offline
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The easy way to identify standard or sport air springs
Apart from different colours for left and right (red vs blue or is it blue vs red?) and different part numbers for standard and sport, the easiest way to identify if you have standard or sport springs is to look at the colour of the base that sits on top of the control arm. Standard air springs have a black coloured base and sport springs have a white coloured base.

Hope this helps
RonR
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  #21  
Old 07-21-2013, 04:17 AM
Burning2nd Burning2nd is offline
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Air susspension is nothing but problems... on all cars and trucks. (buss's)

Do your self a favor and look in to a solid coil replacment

unless your going for the air bagged look..

in which case... PHAT shes tucked
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  #22  
Old 07-21-2013, 06:22 AM
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the540wgn the540wgn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBones View Post
Hi, I am new to this forum and new to BMW's.. I recently bought a 1998 540i.. love it.. I noticed that the fuses in the trunk for "air suspension" were not in.. so i put the fuses in.. i havent noticed anything and there are no lights on my dash saying anything or doing anything different.. how can you tell if its working? and is it damaging to the car to run with the fuses out.. i have driven it around for 2 months with out the two fuses..
Thanks
Mike
Do you even have a touring?
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  #23  
Old 07-21-2013, 09:05 AM
MBones MBones is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the540wgn View Post
Do you even have a touring?
How do I find out? I do not have the manuals.. The fact that there are places to put fuses that are lableled "air supension" makes me think that it has them.. sorry.. so new to this..lol
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  #24  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:11 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBones View Post
How do I find out? I do not have the manuals.. The fact that there are places to put fuses that are lableled "air supension" makes me think that it has them.. sorry.. so new to this..lol
Well just by looking at the car? Is it a sedan or touring (wagon)?
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  #25  
Old 07-21-2013, 01:52 PM
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the540wgn the540wgn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBones View Post
How do I find out? I do not have the manuals.. The fact that there are places to put fuses that are lableled "air supension" makes me think that it has them.. sorry.. so new to this..lol
lol @ HTK12 for sure, a touring is a wagon.
Tourings are denoted with an extra T so 540i is a sedan, 540it is a touring
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