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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 03-09-2009, 04:39 PM
bmwperf bmwperf is offline
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Location: Walnut Creek, California
 
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Mein Auto: 2006 BMW 750Li
Rough idle at start up

When ever I start my car after sittign for awhile, it idles at about 1,000 and will rev up to 1,200 and back down for the first 10-20 seconds then will purr nice, but sounds like **** untill then. Any quick fixed on this or is it a 7 series thing. Its a 2006 750Li with 52,000 miles.
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  #2  
Old 03-09-2009, 05:17 PM
becool becool is offline
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I took mine to dealer for this problem, after they did "something" it has improved but not completely fixed. However they raised my IDLE by 50 RPM and now my car idles at about 550 rpm rather than about 500 rpm. My recommendation, take it to the dealer and after that get use to it.
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2009, 07:15 PM
Dr Feelgood Dr Feelgood is offline
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Mein Auto: m6,750li,mz4,545i,e46 m3,
I had that issue on my 07 with 20k miles.....took it to the dealer and had the master tech do a reprogram of some sort but it fxd the problem
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2009, 08:07 PM
johndade johndade is online now
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I thought the first 20 seconds it was suppose to run a little high then tapper down to 500 at least mine does. Someone before here stated that its the air pump that causes it to run rough first 20 seconds or so. I would search but i wouldnt consider it a problem.
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2009, 09:58 PM
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ImolaMMM ImolaMMM is offline
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=rough+idle

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=rough+idle
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Last edited by ImolaMMM; 03-09-2009 at 10:02 PM. Reason: BmwTech answers the query
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  #6  
Old 11-12-2009, 12:35 AM
artisthand artisthand is offline
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try this it's easy to do only 5 minutes and solved all your rough idle and check engine light problems on your (2000-2009) later or newer yes! all BMW E60, X3, X5, 325i,330i,335i,525i,528i,530i,535i,... check out the manifold adjuster Google this up.

That appears to have been the problem the whole time. This is what caused the check engine light and O2 sensor fault and misfire codes. listed below are the codes that are caused by a broken Intake Manifold Runner Valve/Adjuster Unit!!!

Ignore these codes after changing your broken or damage Intake Manifold Runner Valve/adjuster Unit these codes will be gone.

P0171 = Fuel Trim, Bank1 System too Lean

P0174 = Fuel Trim, Bank2 System too Lean

P0300 = Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0313 = Misfire Detected Low Fuel Level

P0741 = Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off

P1083 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P1085 = Fuel Control Mixture Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

P1342 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 1

P1346 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 3

P1348 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 4

P1350 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 5

P1352 = Misfire During Start Cylinder 6


The adjuster's part description on www.ecstuning.com
Air adjustment unit controls the path of the air in the intake manifold, allowing either a shorter or longer runner length. A common source of trouble causing low RPM sluggishness and accompanied by a clicking sound from the engine bay. The exact symptoms.

Location on driver's side. I already removed the two T40 bolts (upper right and lower middle.) Then simply pull the adjuster unit straight back out towards you. ( 5 minutes)
After removing the manifold adjuster you can also clean your idle control valve (ICV). It's easy to remove the ICV 12 minutes job and clean it with the Throttle Body & Air Intake Cleaner!!!








I can feel the difference in the acceleration and there's no slight hesitation or engine rough idle and after clearing the check engine light it will not come back on!!!
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  #7  
Old 11-12-2009, 08:40 PM
teejaylentz teejaylentz is offline
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Hmmm - I'm not sure this exists on the E65... Was looking around on realoem.com and couldn't find it for our car - I did find it for the E90 though. If it is this simple, I will definitely be looking into it!

Mine also idles rough at startup (when cold) and takes 15-20 seconds before it settles down. My impression was that the valvetronic takes some time to initialize. During initial startup my understanding is that the air intake is controlled by the throttle body (which is normally not used as air is controlled at the engine intake valves). However, this theory doesn't completely explain (IMO) why the idle isn't rough when I start the car again if it is still warm. When either warm or cold, wouldn't the valvetronic still need time to initialize...?
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  #8  
Old 11-13-2009, 05:21 AM
Keif Keif is offline
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Based on your description, the equivalent parts on the E65/E66 would probably be the throttle body (#1 here) or the part that shortens/lengthens the intake runners (#2 here). However, on the E65/E66's N62 engine there is a little more to it than just those parts -- for example, the differential pressure sensor (#4 here), not to mention the implications of using a valvetronic system at or near idle (very little vacuum, for example).

My point is that the 8-cyl N62 and 12-cyl N73 engines are very different beasts from the 6-cyl ones, and while that part is a good start, I think it's an oversimplification of the system as a whole.
 
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Last edited by Keif; 11-13-2009 at 05:28 AM.
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  #9  
Old 11-13-2009, 04:58 PM
desant89 desant89 is offline
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My Dealer told me the rough idle, and sounding like crap for the first 20 to 30 seconds is a 7 thing, and they all do it.
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  #10  
Old 11-13-2009, 10:17 PM
teejaylentz teejaylentz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desant89 View Post
My Dealer told me the rough idle, and sounding like crap for the first 20 to 30 seconds is a 7 thing, and they all do it.
That has been my assumption and not particularly worried about it... BUT - if there's an easy known fix I'd love to know...
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