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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:09 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Maybe the VANOS?

Ok, I have a 2000 BMW 528i



I just finally got it running, after putting in a whole new engine.
If you have been keeping up with my post you already know my problems, for those of you that have not here are my symptoms

These only happen after I rev the engine over 3k, but continues until I turn it off
Horrible acceleration, like 20+ sec zero-60
Terrible misfire on all 6 cylinders, sometimes evens out after a few sec
No torque, won't squeak a tire in the rain
Shakes around 2200-3000 RPMs
Many codes, but P1519 and P1520 are the most concerning

Things I have done
RaceLand performance headers
Cat delete
DynaMax performance muffler
Replaced ignition coils
Brand new fuel filter
Specter air intake
Fresh synthetic oil
Fuel octane booster
Fresh premium gas
All new vacuum lines
And a few others I'm sure I'm forgetting

I have ordered new cam position sensors, hoping that's it. But I feel like it needs new VANOS seals, from what I have read the original seals are total blowage and need replaced after as few as 20k miles
Any advice?
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:13 PM
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dtadrian dtadrian is offline
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Maybe the VANOS?

I hardly doubt vanos will cause that. Have you smoked your intake? You mentioned you replaced all vac lines. Start there


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  #3  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:25 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtadrian View Post
I hardly doubt vanos will cause that. Have you smoked your intake? You mentioned you replaced all vac lines. Start there


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I have not smoked the intake. I do not have the tools for such, but I have removed various vacuums and the car either died or did not improve.

I also am getting slight vacuum from the dipstick tube, from what I hear that shows a properly functioning CCV
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:32 PM
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dtadrian dtadrian is offline
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Maybe the VANOS?

Are you getting any misfire codes? How are the condition of the plugs? Boots for the coils? Any specific cylinder misfire code? Swap coils and see if code follows


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  #5  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:37 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Thumbs down

Quote:
Originally Posted by dtadrian View Post
Are you getting any misfire codes? How are the condition of the plugs? Boots for the coils? Any specific cylinder misfire code? Swap coils and see if code follows


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Misfire on all 6 cylinders. All coils are new and nice NGK plugs

This only occurs when getting it approx. 3k RPMs, if the codes are cleared it will idle all day with no issue. But as soon as you get into it, the problems start and continue until you kill and restart the engine
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  #6  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:40 PM
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dtadrian dtadrian is offline
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Maybe the VANOS?

One last question. Then I need to sleep. When you replaced engine, did you put the m52tu engine? I find it weird that the problem resets after you shut down and restart.


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  #7  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:44 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Originally Posted by dtadrian View Post
One last question. Then I need to sleep. When you replaced engine, did you put the m52tu engine? I find it weird that the problem resets after you shut down and restart.


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Yup, came from a 99' 328i
Here is a pic I took from under the valve cover. The engine was in beautiful condition, the car was just wrecked

I also pulled the oil pan while I had it out, it also looked great. Nice clean oil and no metal shaving or foreign debris.
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  #8  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:48 PM
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dtadrian dtadrian is offline
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Maybe the VANOS?

Ok. I'm gonna think about this.


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  #9  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:55 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Ok. I'm gonna think about this.


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Thank you, i have only $1500 in the entire car including the engine. But I have spent the past 4 months working on it.

I drove it for the first time Saturday night and I'm in love. I mean the escalade is nice, but doesn't compare to the handling of a BMW with sport package.

I really can't wait to figure this little issue out, I'm looking forward to feeling the power this car has to offer.
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  #10  
Old 10-04-2013, 06:49 AM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Just got off the phone with the mechanic, he said engine has good compression. But ounce it warms up cylinders 5 and 6 are completely dead. He also believes this is a VANOS problem causing the timing the get thrown out of wack.

Idk, I'm going to put some new seals in it and see what changes.
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  #11  
Old 10-04-2013, 07:17 AM
FiveDriver FiveDriver is offline
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When you mention 3K RPM, there's a clue there. That's around the point where the VANOS starts to kick in. Once you replace those seals, you will see how it's supposed to work. Note also, there is a break-in period of a few hundred miles on these seals.

BTW -- that is a nice vehicle, kind of a rare color. Does it have the Tan Interior ??
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  #12  
Old 10-04-2013, 08:22 AM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveDriver View Post
When you mention 3K RPM, there's a clue there. That's around the point where the VANOS starts to kick in. Once you replace those seals, you will see how it's supposed to work. Note also, there is a break-in period of a few hundred miles on these seals.

BTW -- that is a nice vehicle, kind of a rare color. Does it have the Tan Interior ??
Nope, black interior.
I just remembered, I have a working VANOS from my original motor. Should I put that on there and see if it works?
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  #13  
Old 10-04-2013, 09:31 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Mein Auto: '99 528i, M52TU w/stick
Quote:
Originally Posted by FutureFuzz 26 View Post
Thank you, i have only $1500 in the entire car including the engine. But I have spent the past 4 months working on it.....
Man I'm green with envy, what a deal on such a beaut!

Are you re-using the cam sensors from the original or the ones that were on the replacement?
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  #14  
Old 10-04-2013, 10:07 AM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Man I'm green with envy, what a deal on such a beaut!

Are you re-using the cam sensors from the original or the ones that were on the replacement?
Orig. the ones on the new where gone when I got it
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  #15  
Old 10-04-2013, 04:21 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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I put the different VANOS pistons in, I felt a huge difference in the seal. The orig. pistons fell out, the new ones I had to actually push in.

This made a slight difference. But not anywhere near what I expected, I was getting outran by an escort..... A damn ford escort
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  #16  
Old 10-04-2013, 04:45 PM
FiveDriver FiveDriver is offline
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The DISA Valve is another big influence on these motors. When I replaced mine I noticed an immediate difference in the mid-range power band. Have you checked it out ??
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  #17  
Old 10-04-2013, 05:06 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiveDriver View Post
The DISA Valve is another big influence on these motors. When I replaced mine I noticed an immediate difference in the mid-range power band. Have you checked it out ??
Where is that?

I just test drove it. And it seems as if the RPMs drop to like 3hundred at idle. Almost like the car is about to die. Then it seems to recover slightly, hovering around 3-5 hundred.
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  #18  
Old 10-04-2013, 05:22 PM
PrimeSuspect PrimeSuspect is offline
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Re: Maybe the VANOS?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FutureFuzz 26 View Post
Where is that?
Driver's side above the TB. You can't miss it. I don't have a picture handy but a quick Google search will get you pictures.



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Last edited by PrimeSuspect; 10-04-2013 at 06:40 PM.
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  #19  
Old 10-04-2013, 06:10 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Metal thing with a plug, or plastic thing with an actuator?
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  #20  
Old 10-04-2013, 09:01 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Also, I seem to get a sudden burst of power when hitting railroad tracks by my house. It sounds weird I know, but as soon as I drop over the hill I can feel a deference for about 2 seconds
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  #21  
Old 10-05-2013, 05:26 AM
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dtadrian dtadrian is offline
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Maybe the VANOS?

Quote:
Originally Posted by FutureFuzz 26 View Post
Just got off the phone with the mechanic, he said engine has good compression. But ounce it warms up cylinders 5 and 6 are completely dead. He also believes this is a VANOS problem causing the timing the get thrown out of wack.

Idk, I'm going to put some new seals in it and see what changes.
I don't understand how all cyl are fine and once warmed up # 5-6 are dead? When he says dead does he mean zero compression or no spark?
Why don't you unplug the vanos solenoid and see if it makes a change to your problem. I think your problem is beyond vanos. But in a statement you mentioned earlier is that when you restart your car it runs fine til you rev to 3500+ rpm. I'm thinking its more of a bad sensor or something is not reporting values to your computer. Can you give us the list of codes you are getting.


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  #22  
Old 10-05-2013, 07:33 AM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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By cylinders dead it means it's so far out of time the gas and spark are never in the cylinder at the same time. That's what I don't understand, how doest the timing get off that bad? The mechanic said the exhaust side is 0 degree out, but the intake is getting up to 10 degrees out of time.

I had a friend play with it a little last night, I found out if you brake torque it all the way to the floor the engine gets to 3k ish but will not overcome the brakes, and if you completely let off the brakes with the pedal still to the floor it won't spin a tire, and the 0-40 is like 8 seconds. He also believes it is a cam position sensor, causing the injectors/coils to fire at random creating this misfire issue, but idk. That seems abit too simple.

I also tested fuel pressure last night, 48 psi.
The down stream O2 sensors are unplugged
Their is a slight exhaust leak
I tried unplugging the intake cam position sensor with the car running, it made a very silight difference.
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  #23  
Old 10-05-2013, 08:10 AM
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lild lild is offline
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it could be the fact you took the cats off and the performace headers, maybe once the car gets out of the cold loop, after warm up, the computer cant see certain things, like the o2 sesors that r behind the cats, and needs to read to give proper fuel and air ratio. and even is you left them in or plugged up, they still have to read. also how is the maf sensor, these for some reason don't give a code when they're bad, this could cause problems. see these cars are very dependent of all the sensors to run properly after warm up.

and I could be wrong, but I belive there is a certain amount of back pressure needed on the exuasht, with no cats this could also be a problem. since your trying to add come hp, it may be best to put a scanner that can do a full read out not just codes. the reason why the car runs fine after you clear the codes is cause your reseted the ecu, but in the time you run the car, it is reruns the test, the problems come back up. that's why it runs like carp after restart.

you could always put the factory headers, and cats back on. you have nothing to lose to find out if it runs better. if you do searches, you'll see that guys who upgraded to performace parts had problems.
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  #24  
Old 10-06-2013, 01:10 PM
MAICODOUG MAICODOUG is offline
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IF there was only a decent performance shop that could appreciate the mods, that is , could work w/ them & at least help diagnose. Show up at 5pm on a Monday or Friday with some cold beer & talk w/ the owner.
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  #25  
Old 10-06-2013, 08:09 PM
FutureFuzz 26 FutureFuzz 26 is offline
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Originally Posted by MAICODOUG View Post
IF there was only a decent performance shop that could appreciate the mods, that is , could work w/ them & at least help diagnose. Show up at 5pm on a Monday or Friday with some cold beer & talk w/ the owner.
Funny you say that, I took it to a local import performance shop and told the guy I did everything in my garage with hand tools. (Including removing/installing the engine. Alone)

He offered me a job helping out around his shop. But that's not the point, he looked it over and said for me to fix the VANOS, and the exhaust leak. Then return it for a more in depth look over. I put different VANOS seals in (that where used but worked) and their was little to no difference. And I havnt yet fixed the exhaust leak.

Now I'm leaning towards maybe a cam position sensor. Causing all 6 cylinders to misfire, and hit and miss power, but always weak.
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