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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 06-20-2009, 09:37 AM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KelseysBMW View Post
My car started buring oil out of the exhaust tip in light blue clouds. I was so upset because everyone kept telling me I blew by engine or cracked my head. My dad was mad at first because that's what he tought too and as he said (Kels, cars don't blow oil out of the exhaust because nothing happened) but that's exactly what happened. I was driving responsibly and all of the sudden I'm crop dusting. I live in Florida so there was no "freezing" issue that caused my CCV to break. It just did.

Anyways, I went online to see if anyone else had this problem and found my way here. After looking at the pictures and not having an extra $500 to donate to the BMW dealer I decided (with proding from my Dad) to do the repair myself. Keep in mind I am a 16 year old girl with little to no car repair experience. I picked up the part for $68 and went to work. I would look at the first picture and then go out to the garage and do the first step, then come back and check to make sure the step I did was correct. One step at a time being real careful I was able to work through it. My Dad kept tabs on the progress and helped a little with tool selection and hidden bolts. Even though I was real careful, I did have to replace one hose that fell apart when I touched it. (the lower hose) Since mine was a 3 series and not a 5 series some of the pictures were not identicle, but I could see what I was supposed to do anyway.

My Dad said that nobodywould believe that a 16 year old girl could do it herself so I have pictures to prove it! Car ran GREAT when I was done and no more SMOKE!! I was so excited and proud that I did this. So, no excuses you guys, get to it. Oh, and for the man in Germany that designed that hose routing and CCV placement on this engine, you should be working for a Hampster cage factory because you suck.
GO KELSEY!!!

You are so awesome! And to your dad for thinking outside the box and believing his little girl is capable of tackling this kind of a job. You made him proud!

Hell, I am proud of you, and I don't even know you!

Coolest girl on Bimmerfest. Stick around!

mw
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  #27  
Old 07-17-2009, 06:17 AM
reo11 reo11 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1999 E39
Can a leak in the CCV or related hoses cause the car to sound like an F-16 on landing approach, rough idle, and O2 sensor codes?
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  #28  
Old 07-17-2009, 06:40 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Yes!

Here is my Quadruple DIY: Oil Line ---> Vanos, CCV, ICV and Alternator Air Duct DIY:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225

It is for a 1998 528i but 1999 is slightly different (not much). Time to look under the Intake Manifold and do an overhaul of all those lovely rubber hoses!!! They crack after 10 years/100K miles.

Last edited by cn90; 07-17-2009 at 06:58 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-18-2009, 06:42 AM
reo11 reo11 is offline
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THANKS Big Time CN90! Looks like My Wednesday is covered. 189000 miles and this car is wonderful. Except for the F-16 sound. You should work for Chilton/Haynes. In 13 years working in the automotive aftermarket, I have never seen such a detailed and easy to understand DIY.
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  #30  
Old 08-01-2009, 12:03 PM
ewingb ewingb is offline
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Exclamation CCV 2001 525i Wagon

Good work on this CCV monster. I just returned from an out of town trip where the stealer banged me for $808. to do this valve replacement, one connecting line, a vent pipe, and a return line at top drawer BMW OEM pricing. I cross checked the parts with the ones found on this thread...same.

To add insult to injury it did not fix my stalling problem. For when I dropped into the seat after paying the bill...I sat down easy as you might suppose after this serious reaming, there I was with the original complaint and a trouble light. So another $500. or so bucks later I also got a new fuel pump.

I'm thinking the BMW Group ought to cut a deal with Denso of Japan, because their electrical components might as well be made by Lucas....a.k.a. "The Prince of Darkness"; I had an Exhaust Camshaft Sensor fail before I left on the trip...then the fuel pump. 45k miles on the odometer.
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  #31  
Old 09-02-2009, 02:13 AM
mad_dexter mad_dexter is offline
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Removal/cleaning of dipstick housing a MUST

Having recently undertaken this replacement on my E39, I thought I would add my experience and unequivocally recommend removal and cleaning of the dipstick even if you thought you could do this diy without removing it. This could explain why some owners do not see an improvement in oil consumption after replacing the CCV and tube if they do not do this.

My E39 has now done 158k. She is in very good condition and I am loathe to get rid of her. She is quiet, comfortable and mainly reliable. However, the excessive oil comsumption made me think it was the end of road.

Oil consumption has always been an issue, using 1L every 1000miles from halfway through the service interval. BMW said this was in spec but I think this is appauling when you have to add 6L (costing GBP70) of oil between changes. For the last couple of years though she has used 1L every 1000 miles all the time, but recently this has increased to 1L every 250 miles (local) to 500 miles (long journies). I had a compression test carried out which showed all cylinders ok at 220psi. Internet searches suggested the problem to be valve guides or CCV. I chose the lower (CCV) cost option and hoped!

I decided to replace CCC and all tubing (120 for all parts) as BMW had to order the parts in, and I didn't want to be short of parts over a weekend or have to repeat this again at a later date for a perished tube.

I decided to leave the inlet manifold in place as my tools capacity is limited these days, and didn't want to get into something deep! This resulted in not being able to get to one of the two mounting bolts for the CCV, so I snapped the old CCV away from the hidden mounting, behind the throttle actuator. Keeping the manifold in place made the CCV extraction tricky, but with a lot of manoevering and twisting and forcing (well it was being replaced anyway) it came out of a tight gap.

Inspection of the removed CCV showed a presence of thick oil at the bottom outlet, though I wouldnt say it was blocked. However, the return pipe (from the base of the CCV to the dipstick carrier) was blocked solid. I decided I didn't have to remove the dipstick housing as the return inlet from the CCV into the housing seemed clear (by proding with a wire) and it had oil in it. But I am SO glad that I had to remove it to make the reinstall easier....

Close inspection and investigation (its a long story!) of the bottom outlet of the dipstick housing confirmed that the oil flow from the CCV into the sump does NOT flow through the big hole in the middle of the dipstick. No... Instead it flows through the tiny weeny little gap getween the dipstick outer and inner walls, which are crimped together in 2 places (See photo of the cleaned housing sump drain). Mine was blocked so solid that I initially thought it was a thick walled tube until I checked for flow through it (sorry no pre cleaning photo). Why oh why did BMW design such a narrow flow channel! I am sure this was where the initial blockage ocurred, then backed up to the tube between the CCV and sump, and then into the CCV.

Having turned the dipstick housing upside-down, I prodded and poked the tiny gaps with wire. Flat metal from an old wiper blade is recommended but I had just thown a set away. I then worked white spirit into the gap with the wire. Others recommend using carburettor cleaner but white spirit was all I had. I finally got some flow to the CCV inlet and from then on it got freer until finally it poured through. I purged and dried all the white spirit from the housing using a pump from a hand sprayer, and alternately blocked the various outlets with my thumb to ensure all the channels were free flowing.

Installing the new CCV meant that I had to break the fixing eyelet on the new one to match the shape of the bit that was left behind (see earlier). This isn't too drastic as its a snug fit and is stable with only one bolt holding it in place. Incidentally, it was much harder to manoever the new CCV into place to the gap under the manifold than it was to remove the old one, and it only slipped into place after I sprayed the CCV casing with WD40 to lubricate it past the manifold.

In summary, the CCV and plumbing blockages explains the varied symptoms of my problem:

(i) Excessive oil consumption (1L every 250-500 miles)
(ii) A slight oil leak from the crankcase gasket due to the pressure forcing oil past the gasket onto the exhaust manifold.
(iii) Oil dripping onto the exhaust manifold after one long journey
(iv) Occasional difficulty starting where, if the engine did not start immediately, I had to keep her turning over constantly for 3-5 minutes until she caught. I suspect this was due to oil in the inlet manifold and/or oil getting past the valve guides (as others have reported with blocked CCV) and filling the cylinders, affecting the plugs or fuel mix.

She hasn't used a drop of oil in 700 miles now, and has a new lease of life and I am so pleased and relieved.

Although the crankcase gasket leak was noticed and replaced by a non-BMW garage, they didn't find the cause of the problem. This was only possible by the postings on the internet. The excessive oil has worried me for several years, and resolving this it is down to all you contributors in the numerous forums.

Thanks a million.
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Last edited by mad_dexter; 09-02-2009 at 02:30 AM. Reason: gramar
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  #32  
Old 09-02-2009, 05:25 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Thanks for posting this dipstick "double-walled" design feature. Interesting!

I was reading a few posts above by KelseysBMW....
Quote:
Originally Posted by KelseysBMW View Post
.........My Dad said that nobodywould believe that a 16 year old girl could do it herself so I have pictures to prove it! Car ran GREAT when I was done and no more SMOKE!! I was so excited and proud that I did this. So, no excuses you guys, get to it. Oh, and for the man in Germany that designed that hose routing and CCV placement on this engine, you should be working for a Hampster cage factory because you suck.
All I can say is wow...16-y.o. girl with no mechanical experience and tackled this job!!! Kudo!
Don't you guys (yes guys, not girls) who shell out money to your indy for things like this feel shameful than a 16-y.o. girl can handle this with little car repair experience?
Time to become grease monkeys guys...

Last edited by cn90; 09-02-2009 at 05:30 AM.
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  #33  
Old 09-02-2009, 05:33 AM
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dalekressin dalekressin is offline
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Expansion tank and radiator

Is the expansion tank a resivoir tank for radiator fluid?
Is the expansion tank an add on?
Sorry, it shows I really don't know.
Have studied the cn90 thread for DIY.
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  #34  
Old 09-02-2009, 05:39 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dalekressin View Post
Is the expansion tank a resivoir tank for radiator fluid?
Is the expansion tank an add on?
Sorry, it shows I really don't know.
Have studied the cn90 thread for DIY.
Hi dalekressin,

Wrong place for this question because CCV is nothing to do with cooling system.

The expansion tank is there to allow coolant to expand as it heats it.
Without coolant reservoir, hot coolant will flow out of the cap and on the ground, when cooling down, air gets sucked in, the problem will be worse and worse.
So yes, every gasoline engine car has a coolant reservoir.
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  #35  
Old 09-02-2009, 05:26 PM
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gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KelseysBMW View Post
My car started buring oil out of the exhaust tip in light blue clouds. I was so upset because everyone kept telling me I blew by engine or cracked my head. My dad was mad at first because that's what he tought too and as he said (Kels, cars don't blow oil out of the exhaust because nothing happened) but that's exactly what happened. I was driving responsibly and all of the sudden I'm crop dusting. I live in Florida so there was no "freezing" issue that caused my CCV to break. It just did.

Anyways, I went online to see if anyone else had this problem and found my way here. After looking at the pictures and not having an extra $500 to donate to the BMW dealer I decided (with proding from my Dad) to do the repair myself. Keep in mind I am a 16 year old girl with little to no car repair experience. I picked up the part for $68 and went to work. I would look at the first picture and then go out to the garage and do the first step, then come back and check to make sure the step I did was correct. One step at a time being real careful I was able to work through it. My Dad kept tabs on the progress and helped a little with tool selection and hidden bolts. Even though I was real careful, I did have to replace one hose that fell apart when I touched it. (the lower hose) Since mine was a 3 series and not a 5 series some of the pictures were not identicle, but I could see what I was supposed to do anyway.

My Dad said that nobodywould believe that a 16 year old girl could do it herself so I have pictures to prove it! Car ran GREAT when I was done and no more SMOKE!! I was so excited and proud that I did this. So, no excuses you guys, get to it. Oh, and for the man in Germany that designed that hose routing and CCV placement on this engine, you should be working for a Hampster cage factory because you suck.
Awesome work on a not so easy job. Congratulations.
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Ever wonder why 5 series electrical issues are common and complicated.. Spend time here and you will understand why. http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...9new/index.htm
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  #36  
Old 09-02-2009, 06:33 PM
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gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mad_dexter View Post
Having recently undertaken this replacement on my E39, I thought I would add my experience and unequivocally recommend removal and cleaning of the dipstick even if you thought you could do this diy without removing it. This could explain why some owners do not see an improvement in oil consumption after replacing the CCV and tube if they do not do this.

My E39 has now done 158k. She is in very good condition and I am loathe to get rid of her. She is quiet, comfortable and mainly reliable. However, the excessive oil comsumption made me think it was the end of road.

Oil consumption has always been an issue, using 1L every 1000miles from halfway through the service interval. BMW said this was in spec but I think this is appauling when you have to add 6L (costing GBP70) of oil between changes. For the last couple of years though she has used 1L every 1000 miles all the time, but recently this has increased to 1L every 250 miles (local) to 500 miles (long journies). I had a compression test carried out which showed all cylinders ok at 220psi. Internet searches suggested the problem to be valve guides or CCV. I chose the lower (CCV) cost option and hoped!

I decided to replace CCC and all tubing (120 for all parts) as BMW had to order the parts in, and I didn't want to be short of parts over a weekend or have to repeat this again at a later date for a perished tube.

I decided to leave the inlet manifold in place as my tools capacity is limited these days, and didn't want to get into something deep! This resulted in not being able to get to one of the two mounting bolts for the CCV, so I snapped the old CCV away from the hidden mounting, behind the throttle actuator. Keeping the manifold in place made the CCV extraction tricky, but with a lot of manoevering and twisting and forcing (well it was being replaced anyway) it came out of a tight gap.

Inspection of the removed CCV showed a presence of thick oil at the bottom outlet, though I wouldnt say it was blocked. However, the return pipe (from the base of the CCV to the dipstick carrier) was blocked solid. I decided I didn't have to remove the dipstick housing as the return inlet from the CCV into the housing seemed clear (by proding with a wire) and it had oil in it. But I am SO glad that I had to remove it to make the reinstall easier....

Close inspection and investigation (its a long story!) of the bottom outlet of the dipstick housing confirmed that the oil flow from the CCV into the sump does NOT flow through the big hole in the middle of the dipstick. No... Instead it flows through the tiny weeny little gap getween the dipstick outer and inner walls, which are crimped together in 2 places (See photo of the cleaned housing sump drain). Mine was blocked so solid that I initially thought it was a thick walled tube until I checked for flow through it (sorry no pre cleaning photo). Why oh why did BMW design such a narrow flow channel! I am sure this was where the initial blockage ocurred, then backed up to the tube between the CCV and sump, and then into the CCV.

Having turned the dipstick housing upside-down, I prodded and poked the tiny gaps with wire. Flat metal from an old wiper blade is recommended but I had just thown a set away. I then worked white spirit into the gap with the wire. Others recommend using carburettor cleaner but white spirit was all I had. I finally got some flow to the CCV inlet and from then on it got freer until finally it poured through. I purged and dried all the white spirit from the housing using a pump from a hand sprayer, and alternately blocked the various outlets with my thumb to ensure all the channels were free flowing.

Installing the new CCV meant that I had to break the fixing eyelet on the new one to match the shape of the bit that was left behind (see earlier). This isn't too drastic as its a snug fit and is stable with only one bolt holding it in place. Incidentally, it was much harder to manoever the new CCV into place to the gap under the manifold than it was to remove the old one, and it only slipped into place after I sprayed the CCV casing with WD40 to lubricate it past the manifold.

In summary, the CCV and plumbing blockages explains the varied symptoms of my problem:

(i) Excessive oil consumption (1L every 250-500 miles)
(ii) A slight oil leak from the crankcase gasket due to the pressure forcing oil past the gasket onto the exhaust manifold.
(iii) Oil dripping onto the exhaust manifold after one long journey
(iv) Occasional difficulty starting where, if the engine did not start immediately, I had to keep her turning over constantly for 3-5 minutes until she caught. I suspect this was due to oil in the inlet manifold and/or oil getting past the valve guides (as others have reported with blocked CCV) and filling the cylinders, affecting the plugs or fuel mix.

She hasn't used a drop of oil in 700 miles now, and has a new lease of life and I am so pleased and relieved.

Although the crankcase gasket leak was noticed and replaced by a non-BMW garage, they didn't find the cause of the problem. This was only possible by the postings on the internet. The excessive oil has worried me for several years, and resolving this it is down to all you contributors in the numerous forums.

Thanks a million.
The new CCV Service bulletin lists a new dispstick tube. I was able to get everything replaced by the CPO warranty. Now I understand why a new dipstick was required. The old SB listed a means such as using a wiper blade metal insert to clean out the crud. Apparently, this did not work well, hence the new redesigned dipstick.

On a 850 Volvo, there is a much simpler design with a large return tube to the engine block. I'm still thinking that the crude PCV valve with the baffles on the valve covers is the right solution following the KISS principal. Keep It Simple Stupid.
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Ever wonder why 5 series electrical issues are common and complicated.. Spend time here and you will understand why. http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/r...9new/index.htm
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  #37  
Old 09-03-2009, 03:39 AM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
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Location: nova
 
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Great job!

That picture is very helpful.

Quote:
The new CCV Service bulletin lists a new dispstick tube.
Do you have a SB number or upgraded part number? I think I saw another thread on here with the number but can't locate now.


FYI: #11437531258 is the BMW part number on www.realoem.com for the oil "guide tube" (2000 528iT). If I check with online BMW dealer parts listing, no superceded part comes up. (www.getbmwparts.com)/

Quote:
Engine - Engine parts - Guide tube
Guide tube - 2.5 & 2.8 liter 1999-03 1999 - 2003
Thanks.
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Last edited by Jase007; 09-03-2009 at 03:46 AM.
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  #38  
Old 09-03-2009, 05:21 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtxragtop View Post
......On a 850 Volvo, there is a much simpler design with a large return tube to the engine block. I'm still thinking that the crude PCV valve with the baffles on the valve covers is the right solution following the KISS principal. Keep It Simple Stupid.
I have 1998 Volvo V70 (similar as 850). I did the PCV on the "brick" and it is tough job too. The Volvo 850 job is no easier than the BMW.

You really want to see a KISS principle at work? Look no further than an E23 (1983 BMW 735i that I used to have).
Since the Air Intake sits higher than the cylinder head, the PCV hose (#11) simply slopes up and joins the Rubber Boot:



Oil flows down by gravity and crankcase vapor re-enters to Air Intake.
The E23 PCV Hose is nothing more than a rubber hose, about $10 and that is it.
Maintenance is a breeze!

The E39 design has a sloped down hood (for better aerodynamics), so this creates a whole bunch of re-design problems: The Air Intake sits below the cylinderhead, lines and tubes have to be re-designed. To add insult to injury the BMW over-engineered alot of crap.

PS: The Dipstick Tube: Another option (other than buying the re-designed tube) ---> Take it out and soak the bottom part below the side branch in gasoline overnight (dip it in a tight plastic pop bottle to undo the crud), then blow it out next day with compressed air.
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  #39  
Old 09-04-2009, 04:31 AM
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gtxragtop gtxragtop is offline
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Here you go
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  #40  
Old 12-25-2009, 10:09 AM
BlueSkies10 BlueSkies10 is offline
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Awesome thread! I was about to ask about this cyclone separator because I've been told by the dealership that my car needs to have this replaced soon. I purchased the cyclone separator but have never put it on. I was waiting to find out how to change it and with the pix in this thread, I think I can now figure it out. How long would you say it would take to change this cyclone separator?

Would a bad or seriously malfunctioning/worn out cyclone separator cause the car not to start/run?

Last edited by BlueSkies10; 12-25-2009 at 07:08 PM.
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  #41  
Old 09-01-2010, 06:46 AM
waylon waylon is offline
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I have a 2003 530i and the CEL keeps popping the codes PO420 & PO430, I replaced the rear 02 sensors last month. The check oil light comes up regularly and the car runs a little rough. It has 130k on it. Could the crankcase ventilation valve replacement fix these problems ?
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  #42  
Old 09-01-2010, 06:57 AM
aioros aioros is online now
aioros
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Mein Auto: '99 528i auto , '01 330xi
yes it could be.it maybe the vanos seals also. even the disa valve.
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  #43  
Old 09-01-2010, 08:07 AM
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bmw7833 bmw7833 is offline
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Great info!
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Live the e39..!!

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  #44  
Old 04-01-2011, 07:39 AM
alhend alhend is offline
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I just did this repair on my 2001 530I (M54). Started after work, finished about 11 PM. Not too hard, but the valve is hard to fit with the foam jacket on it. I had to cut some of the foam away. I ordered the parts from Bill Dodge BMW, in Maine (207-854-3200). I called and asked for wholesale parts. I spoke to Ronny. He shipped what I needed to me via UPS for a total of $145 including shipping. My local dealer (Hudson Valley BMW), wanted $260 plus tax,over the counter. I received the CCV repair kit (PN 11-61-7-534-237), which included the part and 2 insulated hoses, and a return hose (PN 11-61-7-504-536). That was all I needed to comeplete the repair. I am told that pre-2000 models also require a dipstick, but am not sure about that. hope this helps some of you out there.
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  #45  
Old 04-01-2011, 05:14 PM
aioros aioros is online now
aioros
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alhend View Post
I just did this repair on my 2001 530I (M54). Started after work, finished about 11 PM. Not too hard, but the valve is hard to fit with the foam jacket on it. I had to cut some of the foam away. I ordered the parts from Bill Dodge BMW, in Maine (207-854-3200). I called and asked for wholesale parts. I spoke to Ronny. He shipped what I needed to me via UPS for a total of $145 including shipping. My local dealer (Hudson Valley BMW), wanted $260 plus tax,over the counter. I received the CCV repair kit (PN 11-61-7-534-237), which included the part and 2 insulated hoses, and a return hose (PN 11-61-7-504-536). That was all I needed to comeplete the repair. I am told that pre-2000 models also require a dipstick, but am not sure about that. hope this helps some of you out there.
Good job alhend, my car is a '99 and it did not requires a new dipstick. Most people recommend to replace the o-ring for the dipstick tube but i did not replace that either.
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  #46  
Old 04-01-2011, 07:33 PM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alhend View Post
I ordered the parts from Bill Dodge BMW, in Maine (207-854-3200). I called and asked for wholesale parts. I spoke to Ronny. He shipped what I needed to me via UPS for a total of $145 including shipping. My local dealer (Hudson Valley BMW), wanted $260 plus tax,over the counter. I received the CCV repair kit (PN 11-61-7-534-237), which included the part and 2 insulated hoses, and a return hose (PN 11-61-7-504-536).
Bill Dodge BMW FTW! Ronny did me right too!
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  #47  
Old 04-12-2011, 10:26 AM
bluebee's Avatar
bluebee bluebee is offline
Seek to understand,^Value
Location: San Jose, California
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 21,283
Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by aioros View Post
The following diy is for a '99 528i automatic. the pictures are for the most part self explanatory
Hi Aioros,

Over in this thread, on post #19, we have a question about the DIRECTION & PURPOSE of the vacuum in the orange-striped vacuum line:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cute little trick to diagnose blocked CCV

That vacuum line does not appear to be on the M54 engine ... despite the realoem diagram to the contrary.

What is the PURPOSE and DIRECTION of that orange-striped vacuum line connected on the CCV?

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  #48  
Old 06-29-2011, 02:57 PM
elliot griffin elliot griffin is offline
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Location: Orlando
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 18
Mein Auto: 2004 325i
2004 325i M54
March 2010, 72K miles, the PCV failed and I had dealership fit it.
This week, 87K miles, when starting cold noted rough idle and some smoke, spark plugs slightly fouled and bit of oil around PCV, took it back to dealership and they fixed it again without charge. I was expecting more than 15K miles before needing a repeat repair.
Live in Orlando, FL (rarely freezes) and am wondering:
would there be any benefit of switching to the cold weather PCV? what is the part number?
what is the best preventative maintenance? (i.e. clean the PCV every ~5K miles?, replace the PCV each year?, or ???)

Thanks for any suggestions.
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  #49  
Old 11-12-2011, 06:45 PM
sweetvybz sweetvybz is offline
German Luv
Location: Orlando Fl
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 1
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Mein Auto: 99 528I
Hello All ,
I have a 99 528i and i just replaced the pressure valve and all 4 hoses. I reset my codes and everything is fine but my car take off slow. it runs real smooth compare to before but slow when i start moving and the whole front feel hotter than usual too. Any idea what might be the problem ? Thanx
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  #50  
Old 02-25-2012, 09:49 AM
dinot71 dinot71 is offline
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Location: Parlin,New Jersey,USA
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: 2003 330i
Does anyone know if there is a one-line diagram of the electrical conduit box. I went to reassemble and I have a two prong connector that I have no idea where it goes too. If any has any idea where all these connectors go to on a E39 please let em know or email me dinot71@gmail.com
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