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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-24-2016, 01:06 AM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
Rodneyjallen
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Mein Auto: 97 bmw 528i
97 bmw 528i - Overheating

My car is sort of overheating it gets right at 3/4 of the way on temp gauge maybe a hair more n goes back down usually i put in neutral rev engine n it goes back to 1/2 way on temp. Ive replaced thermostat checked water pump which is good working order its newer cuz it has metal propeller had to replace radiator too. I've bleed out airboth hoses get hot but seem like they have to much pressure i have a video of it acting up I'll try to post.
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2016, 01:29 AM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
Rodneyjallen
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Almost forgot its a 97 bmw 528i.
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  #3  
Old 03-24-2016, 01:33 AM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
Rodneyjallen
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Sorry that was shorten clip this is it.
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  #4  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:33 AM
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tim330i tim330i is offline
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I moved your question to our E39 5 Series forum, you'll get more help in here.

Tim
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  #5  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:23 AM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
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Ty i didn't realize i wasnt it was a long night lol thanks again
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:27 AM
E39Hoon E39Hoon is offline
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It seems like it has air in the system. Try jacking the front and then bleed the system with the heater on full blast.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:53 AM
Brandon002 Brandon002 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E39Hoon View Post
It seems like it has air in the system. Try jacking the front and then bleed the system with the heater on full blast.
Wrong

Car level, key on with car not running, heater on high temp, low fan speed. Then bleed starting with the lowest bleed screw and ending with the expansion tank.
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2016, 02:12 PM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
Rodneyjallen
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Ok thanks ive been doing both at same time I'll try that but is it possible to have leak without losing water n taking in air cuz i pulled water pump when i replaced thermostat n it was a newer pump (metal propeller) n was working fine good bearings no resistance so i put it back in but the oring wasnt replaced it seemed good but wasnt nearly as tight of a fit as new install. I had it almost all the way in before having to tighten nuts down to pull it flush with motor. When i did my other bmw it had about 3/16th gap when i started tighting bolts to pull it flush this one was 1/16th of n inch approximately.
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  #9  
Old 03-24-2016, 03:02 PM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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for a definitive leak check if thats your concern, have the system pressure tested. if the wp oring is leaking ive never seen one draw in air thru it,
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.
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  #10  
Old 03-24-2016, 03:05 PM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
Rodneyjallen
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Ok thanks i dont have a water leak either its probably air in the line
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  #11  
Old 03-24-2016, 04:19 PM
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alex5er alex5er is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon002 View Post
Wrong

Car level, key on with car not running, heater on high temp, low fan speed. Then bleed starting with the lowest bleed screw and ending with the expansion tank.

+1
You may need to do this 2 or 3x. Especially on our early e39 97-98.

I had the same problem. After the 3rd bleed all is well.
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  #12  
Old 03-24-2016, 04:33 PM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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take your time bleeding it, for some its taken close to an hour, and recheck the level in the expansion tank every morning first thing for a few days. as brandon said, turn your fan down low to minimize battery draw.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.
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  #13  
Old 03-24-2016, 05:57 PM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
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I dont have electric fan well the ac fan but my main fan is bt drivin
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  #14  
Old 03-25-2016, 07:26 AM
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mattmar1 mattmar1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodneyjallen View Post
I dont have electric fan well the ac fan but my main fan is bt drivin
meaning..turn down the interior fan. it draws a fair bit of current when running.
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99 528i 5sp sport, vanos rebuild,coolingoverhaul,stripped/repainted/polished/recoated OEM BBS style 5 wheels, new paint , all int/ext LED's clear corners, all vac leaks fixed, eonon 5166, ECS short shifter, LED ae's and fog lights (clear), all brakes, fixed trifecta, rear control arm camber repair, new throttle body, ccv delete, but it ended up as a huge vac leak, returned to new stock ccv, new injectors, cloned and replaced dme.
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  #15  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:26 AM
Rodneyjallen Rodneyjallen is online now
Rodneyjallen
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Oh ok got ya thanks
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