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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-11-2016, 12:42 AM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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Ticking on startup

So I just had my transmission rebuilt and now I'm hearing a ticking on startup I think it's been there since I had the car just seems louder now. Maybe I'm just kinda ocd and nervous because of all the work that was just done... The engine has 191,000 miles on it no check engine light..sounds almost like a rattle on startup also this is a 97 540i which I believe are pre vanos.. anyway I'm not sure what to do just keep driving, contact the guy who pulled and rebuilt the transmission (don't see how the two could be connected), or have a dealership look at it, or just a good mechanic that works on BMWs the car doesn't burn oil also seems to run pretty good doesn't stumble or miss and the ticking doesn't get super loud on acceleration, honestly I can't hear it unless I'm sitting still with the windows down can't hear a damn thing from the inside with the windows up. If that gives an idea to the volume.. I'm getting the feeling its going to be the timing chain guides.. or something along those lines. I love this car but the maintenance cost is just getting to be too much.
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  #2  
Old 08-11-2016, 04:16 AM
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gmak2012 gmak2012 is offline
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Get a mechanics stethoscope and isolate where the sound is coming from. It could be injector noise. It could be the evap purge valve, It could be the fan knicking against a hose clamp; etc etc. Doing a little preliminary work might save your $$$'s in time when you do take ti to a professional.

Oh. ALmost forgot. Some ticking could be an exhaust leak.

Last edited by gmak2012; 08-11-2016 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:24 AM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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Exhaust look could be culprit because it would have had to be undone to get the transmission out
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Old 08-11-2016, 07:21 PM
kingfisher1 kingfisher1 is offline
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The str8 six has the "rev, and hold for 3 min.@ 3k rpm thing" but don't know about the V-8.
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Old 08-12-2016, 04:13 PM
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540 Hammer 540 Hammer is offline
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Exhaust leak(s), valve train noises, chain guides but may not be loud enough. Do buy, or borrow a mechanics stethoscope to try and isolate where it's coming from, which can be difficult. AutoZone loans tools for free. Check and see if they have one to loan for no $$'s. Typically, ticking comes from the valve train, but not always. If you're using a 0W XX weight oil, change it out and try a 10W-30 or 10W-40, as an experiment. Chances are if it goes away, it's in the valve train. I use Castrol Edge Titanium 5W-40 in winter and 10W-40 in summer, I live in AZ. My engine, the 4.4L, is so quiet that you cannot tell it's running while it's in my driveway and I'm standing next to it. It has 101K on the clock. It still doesn't click with 5W-30 either, just like the extra "cushion" from the 10W-40 weight. Good Luck! =)
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:17 PM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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I'm using Mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic. I do believe.
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  #7  
Old 08-13-2016, 03:05 AM
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thumper600 thumper600 is offline
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Without hearing a video on what the sound sounds like my gut reaction is lifters. My '95 had the "tick" from H.E. double toothpicks on startups and on the most recent oil change I filled with Mobil 1 0W40 and the tick has vanished. (Mentioned the '95 because the M60 and M62 motors are quite similar). Used that oil in the '99 540 right from the get go and didn't notice any ticking issues. The '01 M5 is different all together in that she's "new", (new to me), and I filled with Castrol 5W50 and will fill with 0W40 this winter.

Another thing you might look for is the BMW LL-01 certification on the label. AMSOIL recommends 10W40 and 5W40 oil for the 97 540 Model, with these temperature ratings:Viscosities:
Below 32 F .5W-20
Below 50 F .5W-30
-20 To 10....10W-30
-20 To 20....10W-40
Above 5 F .15W-40

BMW recommends: http://www.bimmerfile.com/wp-content...hetic-oils.pdf

the Quirky Uncle recommends: One of the most read articles on this website is Quieting the infamous BMW lifter tick. The statistics I receive for the BMW lifter tick posting shows that its readers are from all over the world, making me believe that ticking lifters in a BMW is not a USA-only issue, as I had previously suspected. While the suggestions I make for driving differently in Quieting the infamous BMW lifter tick have remained effective at preventing lifter noise in my 2007 BMW Z4 3.0i, and I've receive no feedback from readers to indicate that these techniques are ineffective, it still makes me wonder what the root causes of this problem might be.

While the final solution that BMW offers to correct lifter knock is replacement of the entire cylinder head, the variable that my mind keeps returning to is the motor oil. Lifters are hydraulic components and all hydraulic devices are sensitive to the fluids that they use.

I've owned a couple non-BMWs that had hydraulic lifters which were oil sensitive and would periodically make a lot of noise. Effective solutions for these vehicles included: changing the oil sooner, using heavier oil, using lighter oil, or using a particular oil additive. Each situation and its solution was unique. The common thread was changing the characteristics of the motor oil in the engine, which is acting as the hydraulic fluid within each hydraulic lifter.

I'm not a petroleum engineer. Volumes could be written about motor oil ratings, viscosity, additives, and brand comparisons. I'm not going to do that here. My goal is to write a short and simple article about purchasing the correct oil for your BMW. The other technical details about oil are really interesting and I might discuss some of them in another posting. For now, if you have an interest, you can certainly find out more than you'd ever want to know about oil elsewhere on Internet.

What do we know (and assume)?

The following basic motor oil facts for my 2007 BMW were easily found:
•All late model BMWs use synthetic motor oil (it's in the owners manual).
•Approved BMW oils belong to the 5w-40 and 5w-30 weight (viscosity) classes (it's in the owners manual).
•BMW recommends the Castrol motor oil brand (it says so on the oil filler cap of the car).

Being old-school, I went to a local retailer that sold motor oil and bought 7-quarts of Castrol synthetic 5w-40 (the heavier oil weight option, it being summer) and an oil filter. The oil change was simple, and I was done for another 7500 miles. I suspect that this is what most folks do: purchase a reputable brand of oil that is of the specified weight. BMW specifies Castrol: it's a good brand that you've heard of, so you buy it…. unless maybe another known brand is on sale.

It all seems simple enough, but it's not.

If you go digging for information about motor oil on the BMW-USA website, you'll eventually end up at the BMW recommended oils page. Here, as of August 2013, it says:
•BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5w-30 Synthetic Oil is recommended for scheduled oil changes.

It goes on to say that oil changes should only be performed by an authorized BMW center and that if you need to add oil and don't have BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5w-30 Synthetic Oil, you need to go to an authorized BMW center to have it topped off.

When I did this research a while back, the BMW-USA website had a list of approved synthetic oils for the US market that was dated January 2008. It listed several brands, classifying all of them as oils with a "BMW long-life rating of LL-01." The BMW LL-01 spec oil options listed were:
•Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0w-30 (rumor has it that this is the oil BMW relabels to sell as BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5w-30 Synthetic Oil)
•Mobil 1 SAE 0w-40
•Penzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5w-30
•Valvoline SynPower SAE 5w-30

What happened between 2008 and 2013 to make BMW stop listing several oil manufacturer options? I have no idea. However, if you go to the Mobil Oil website, right now in 2013, the Mobil 1 0w-40 oil specs still list Mobil 1 0w-40 as being BMW LL-01 compliant.

Note: Gasoline used in the USA market can contains ethanol that can cause the oils specified for use in other parts of the world, such as those with a BMW LL-04 rating, to break down prematurely when used in the USA.

So, what should you buy?

If you want to follow the letter of BMW law, you'll need to purchase BMW Genuine Oil SAE 5w-30 Synthetic Oil from a BMW dealer or other distributor.

If you are OK with an oil listed in 2008 as fully meeting BMW specs, you need to pay attention to the details, since BMW is listing very specific oil weights and types produced by each manufacturer. Most of the oil type and weight combinations listed in as OK by BMW in 2008 are not commonly available where I live: the only LL-01 oil on the shelf in local stores was Mobil 1 SAE 0w-40.

Oils that are BMW-spec compliant are listed as such on the rear label of the oil bottle. Note that not all oils by a manufacturer or even all weights of a specific oil type are considered LL-01 compliant. Check the label to be 100% certain it says BMW long-life oil 1, BMW LL-01, or some similar phrase.

BMW LL-01 compliant

Why Mobil 1 and the other LL-01 spec oils from 2008, aren't on the BMW list any more, is anyone's guess. It's up to you to decide if they are still appropriate to use in your vehicle.

What's my personal experience?

I've been running Mobil 1 0w-40 (with LL-01 compliance listed on the bottle), for the past five months (about 3000 miles). During that time, I've not had any lifter knocking issues. While I am driving the car as indicated in Quieting the infamous BMW lifter tick, there are instances where the car has had short low RPM runs around town, or sat idling for a while, and no ticking has resulted. I'm thinking that using an LL-01 spec oil has helped the situation.

I plan to continue using LL-01 spec Mobil 1 0w-40 oil in both my BMWs, as long as my success continues. If it doesn't, you'll be the first to know.



Share this:


SO: If it is lifter noise maybe your more acute to it now that you've had some work done and maybe changing your oil to an BMW LL01 approved oil may qujiet them down but without hearing what you're experiencing we're all just guessing. Please keep us posted.
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:43 PM
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540 Hammer 540 Hammer is offline
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Per "Bob's The Oil Guy site", 100% synthetic stock, isn't as subject to low temp flow-ability as dino oil is. I've been using Castrol Edge Titanium 10W-40 year round, in my 1999 540I, with 100K on the clock. I live in northern AZ. It gets to be 100*+ F in the summer and down to about 5*F in the winter. The 10W-40 Edge Titanium, flows fine all year around. I get the majority of my info on motor oils from my Dad and Uncle. Both of them are Tribologists. One for Chevron and one for Pennzoil. I could fill a book with what they've taught me about motor oils, mostly synthetics.

Like Thumper 600 said, it's critical that you only use an oil that's BMW LL-01 rated. The only Mobil 1 product that has that rating is the 0W-40 M1 Synthetic. It's the last of M1 that's from 100% synthetic stock and a true Level IV synthetic oil. The reason why the other Mobil 1 products lost their BMW rating, is because M1 starting using mineral oil to basically cut the oil and get a higher profit margin. This goes back to the early to mid 90's. It's technically only a Level III, semi-syn oil. Not to be confused with a synthetic blend. Germany won't allow Mobil 1 to be called, labeled, or sold as a "synthetic" oil. It's sold as a "Dino" oil. Regular M1 and most all other Level III semi-syns are only about 30% synthetic stock and blended with mineral oil.

Definitely stop using the regular M1 semi-syn oil. Castrol has the most Level IV, 100% pure synthetic base-stock, motor oils on the market currently and, that's BMW LL-01 approved. I believe Castrol Edge is still being used by BMW in Germany and at dealers in the U.S., but have it labeled as a BMW Brand. At the end of this post, I'll give you the list of Level IV Synthetic oils. Level III's are only a semi-synthetic and won't pass the BMW LL-01 standards. Pennzoil Platinum also has some Level IV synthetics too.

This is a huge marketing ploy here in the U.S. Oil Companies are allowed to market their oils as "synthetic", when in actuality, they're not made from pure synthetic base-stock and not a true Level IV, 100% synthetic oil. That's all I use in my: 540I, 2008 Modified LS3 Corvette and my 2005 Modified LS2 GTO. I have tons of info on Level IV synthetic oils, but I'm not going down that road this time. These oil threads have a way of getting way out of hand. Also, some people take oil to the personal level and facts start to mean nothing. I'm confident on the information I share, as it comes from the source, so to speak. I'm not up to debating motor oils anymore, it's too tiring and most people have formed their own opinions, right or misinformed.

This list is primarily Castrol Edge. That's because there aren't many motor oil companies that want to produce the higher cost to produce Level IV oils. Most people won't pay $9 to $12 per quart for the Level IV Castrol, Pennzoil, RP, Redline, Amsoil, etc. Let alone ~$30 per qrt. for the ultimate synthetic motor oil, Motul. Motul is used in F1 and the European run, high end, series', i.e. Blanpain, DTM, etc. It's not exclusively used, however. For those curious about Motul: https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/produ...ants/range/car Castrol Edge is widely used in Germany and Europe. It also passes the MBZ & Porsche motor oil requirements. Now the "list":

List of fully Synthetic Motor Oils


Castrol Edge 0W-30 A3/B4 SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 SAE 0W-40
Castrol Edge 5W-30 A3/B4 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Edge 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge 5W-40 SN SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 0W-40
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 0W-40
Castrol Edge Professional OE SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge SAE 5W-40 US SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge with SPT SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge with SPT SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Titanium SAE 5W-40
Castrol GTX 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40
Castrol GTX High Mileage SAE 5W-40
Castrol Magnatec Professional A3 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 A3/B4 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Magnatec Professional A3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Magnatec stop-start 5W-30 A3/B4 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Magnatec stop-start 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40

The Pennzoil LL-01 list is relatively short:

Pennzoil European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
Pennzoil Ultra Euro SAE 5W-40
Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Amsoil: Most are a Level IV, pure synthetic base-stock
Royal Purple: Most are a Level IV, pure synthetic base-stock
Redline: is a Level IV, pure synthetic base-stock

I continue to add to the list as I get info and can verify its accuracy
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Old 08-13-2016, 02:50 PM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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Lots of good Info here thanks guy. I'll definitely be switching to a different oil. That is bmw LL-01 approved.
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Old 08-15-2016, 09:20 PM
badboyjose badboyjose is offline
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can u tell me if the oil worked for ticking on start up and rev ?my car is doing the same 528i 2000 please help
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  #11  
Old 08-16-2016, 06:20 AM
Bob Michaels Bob Michaels is offline
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I have read some comments of people who think M1 oils were noisier than others. I've never experienced it, but there have been enough to believe it's possible. The good thing is that it's also said to not be harmful. BTW, M1 5w30 isn't one of the approved oils for BMW's (despite the viscosity ratings). As a matter of fact, no currently produced M1 product carries the LL-01 approvals at this time except possibly one of the ESP oils (the 0-40 "Euro Formula" now has the FS label and lacks said approval).

From the Mobil1 website:

"Quality & performance of the new Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 is comparable to the outgoing Mobil 1 0W-40, carrying many of the same claims. However, Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 no longer carries BMW LL-01, due to changes in BMW's testing requirement."

https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/m...il-1&WT.srch=1

Last edited by Bob Michaels; 08-16-2016 at 06:45 AM.
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Old 08-16-2016, 07:06 AM
HolyToledo HolyToledo is offline
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Sound clip? I used to think my engine was a bit noisy, then heard brand new honda and toyota engines tick like sewing machines. Can't even hear them in the cabin.
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Old 08-16-2016, 10:49 AM
kingfisher1 kingfisher1 is offline
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Im a valvoline guy.They have some good stuff.
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Old 08-16-2016, 01:41 PM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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I have not changed out the oil yet. Have not had a chance
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Old 08-16-2016, 02:11 PM
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540 Hammer 540 Hammer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badboyjose View Post
can u tell me if the oil worked for ticking on start up and rev ?my car is doing the same 528i 2000 please help
In my experience, with several cars, it worked on both start-up and after the engine has warmed up. I don't necessarily suggest it on lower mileage cars, but I've read some posts on here that sear by a 20W-50 weight on cars with 150K to 200K miles. They said it helped quiet them down some.

"So 10W-30 oil has less viscosity when cold and hot than does 20W-50. Motor oil thins as it heats and thickens as it cools. So, with the right additives to help it resist thinning too much, an oil can be rated for one viscosity when cold, another when hot. The more resistant it is to thinning, the higher the second number (10W-40 versus 10W-30, for example) and that's good. Within reason, thicker oil generally seals better and maintains a better film of lubrication between moving parts."

IMO, M1 has "sold out" for higher profit margin and, is not the "special" oil it once was - see link at the bottom.

On all three of my cars, (see my sig), I've switched to Castro Edge Titanium 10W-40 year-round. I live in AZ. We see temps of 100*+F down to 5*F in the winter months. With pure synthetic, Group 4 motor oils, like Castrol Edge Titanium, the "Winter" rating doesn't have nearly the issue of flow-ability as Dino oils.

"Synthetic blends and full synthetics can bring additional protection and often flow more easily during severe cold then conventional oils."

"Most 5W oils have a pour point at -40°F (-40°C) The base oil is the same in 0W-40, but it's pour point has been lowered even further - sometimes to as much as -50°F (-46°C)

There's no reason in the U.S. to go lower than a 5W, or 10W, is even fine when using a full synthetic. UNLESS you want a Euro made oil, that happens to only be available in 0W-XX viscosities.

I prefer the extra cushion (10W-40), that a higher viscosity oil provides on a car with over 100K on the clock. Even still, I use it on my Corvette with 55K. The GM performance LS motors, are notoriously noisy in the valve train, (high lift / long duration for a stock motor), even when new.

Switching from M1 to Castrol Edge Titanium 10W-40, made it noticeably more quiet. Also, the Castrol I mentioned, stays that nice honey color a lot longer than ANY M1 product I used. So I know it wasn't breaking down as fast as the M1's.


http://www.2addicts.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1233807 DO NO USE ANY M1 products in your BMW anymore. M1 has confirmed this very recently on their own site.
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Old 08-16-2016, 03:22 PM
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Just to let you guys know how good castrol 0w30 euro is-i haven't changed it since the car was sitting for 2yrs needing a starter and 2 summers after that-my 540i is still quiet as a mouse at almost 150k and the color of the oil looks the same as the day it was poured in. I'm totally sold on using castrol euro 0w30 the rest of the engines life.

Last edited by cdawg246; 08-16-2016 at 03:23 PM.
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:02 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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The ticking noise at start up is considered normal operation. I complained when my car was new, under warranty...guess what? I now have 256,000+ miles and my car still makes the noise intermittently, and runs and drives just fine.

Yes, best to use a LL-01 oil...but it won't make any impact on the noise.
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Last edited by 540 M-Sport; 08-16-2016 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 08-16-2016, 04:06 PM
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540 M-Sport 540 M-Sport is offline
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Mobil 1 0w-40 has not been LL-01 approved (rated) for some time now. While it may be possible to find new old stock still labeled as such, current production no longer carries the rating.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 540 Hammer View Post
Per "Bob's The Oil Guy site", 100% synthetic stock, isn't as subject to low temp flow-ability as dino oil is. I've been using Castrol Edge Titanium 10W-40 year round, in my 1999 540I, with 100K on the clock. I live in northern AZ. It gets to be 100*+ F in the summer and down to about 5*F in the winter. The 10W-40 Edge Titanium, flows fine all year around. I get the majority of my info on motor oils from my Dad and Uncle. Both of them are Tribologists. One for Chevron and one for Pennzoil. I could fill a book with what they've taught me about motor oils, mostly synthetics.

Like Thumper 600 said, it's critical that you only use an oil that's BMW LL-01 rated. The only Mobil 1 product that has that rating is the 0W-40 M1 Synthetic. It's the last of M1 that's from 100% synthetic stock and a true Level IV synthetic oil. The reason why the other Mobil 1 products lost their BMW rating, is because M1 starting using mineral oil to basically cut the oil and get a higher profit margin. This goes back to the early to mid 90's. It's technically only a Level III, semi-syn oil. Not to be confused with a synthetic blend. Germany won't allow Mobil 1 to be called, labeled, or sold as a "synthetic" oil. It's sold as a "Dino" oil. Regular M1 and most all other Level III semi-syns are only about 30% synthetic stock and blended with mineral oil.

Definitely stop using the regular M1 semi-syn oil. Castrol has the most Level IV, 100% pure synthetic base-stock, motor oils on the market currently and, that's BMW LL-01 approved. I believe Castrol Edge is still being used by BMW in Germany and at dealers in the U.S., but have it labeled as a BMW Brand. At the end of this post, I'll give you the list of Level IV Synthetic oils. Level III's are only a semi-synthetic and won't pass the BMW LL-01 standards. Pennzoil Platinum also has some Level IV synthetics too.

This is a huge marketing ploy here in the U.S. Oil Companies are allowed to market their oils as "synthetic", when in actuality, they're not made from pure synthetic base-stock and not a true Level IV, 100% synthetic oil. That's all I use in my: 540I, 2008 Modified LS3 Corvette and my 2005 Modified LS2 GTO. I have tons of info on Level IV synthetic oils, but I'm not going down that road this time. These oil threads have a way of getting way out of hand. Also, some people take oil to the personal level and facts start to mean nothing. I'm confident on the information I share, as it comes from the source, so to speak. I'm not up to debating motor oils anymore, it's too tiring and most people have formed their own opinions, right or misinformed.

This list is primarily Castrol Edge. That's because there aren't many motor oil companies that want to produce the higher cost to produce Level IV oils. Most people won't pay $9 to $12 per quart for the Level IV Castrol, Pennzoil, RP, Redline, Amsoil, etc. Let alone ~$30 per qrt. for the ultimate synthetic motor oil, Motul. Motul is used in F1 and the European run, high end, series', i.e. Blanpain, DTM, etc. It's not exclusively used, however. For those curious about Motul: https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/produ...ants/range/car Castrol Edge is widely used in Germany and Europe. It also passes the MBZ & Porsche motor oil requirements. Now the "list":

List of fully Synthetic Motor Oils


Castrol Edge 0W-30 A3/B4 SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 SAE 0W-40
Castrol Edge 5W-30 A3/B4 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Edge 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge 5W-40 SN SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 0W-40
Castrol Edge Professional A3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Professional BMW LL01 SAE 0W-40
Castrol Edge Professional OE SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge SAE 5W-40 US SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge with SPT SAE 0W-30
Castrol Edge with SPT SAE 5W-40
Castrol Edge Titanium SAE 5W-40
Castrol GTX 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40
Castrol GTX High Mileage SAE 5W-40
Castrol Magnatec Professional A3 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Magnatec 5W-30 A3/B4 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40
Castrol Magnatec Professional A3 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Magnatec stop-start 5W-30 A3/B4 SAE 5W-30
Castrol Magnatec stop-start 5W-40 A3/B4 SAE 5W-40

The Pennzoil LL-01 list is relatively short:

Pennzoil European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
Pennzoil Ultra Euro SAE 5W-40
Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5W-40 Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Amsoil: Most are a Level IV, pure synthetic base-stock
Royal Purple: Most are a Level IV, pure synthetic base-stock
Redline: is a Level IV, pure synthetic base-stock

I continue to add to the list as I get info and can verify its accuracy
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  #19  
Old 08-16-2016, 08:12 PM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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I know that's why Intend to get oil that's approved. But I want to get 5w-40 or even 10w-40. But whichever I get it must be BMW LL-01
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Old 08-17-2016, 05:58 AM
hbluthi hbluthi is offline
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Originally Posted by cdawg246 View Post
Just to let you guys know how good castrol 0w30 euro is-i haven't changed it since the car was sitting for 2yrs needing a starter and 2 summers after that-my 540i is still quiet as a mouse at almost 150k and the color of the oil looks the same as the day it was poured in. I'm totally sold on using castrol euro 0w30 the rest of the engines life.
Yeah will hopefully you changed the oil anyways. 2 years old? Needs to be changed every year if the mileage isn't enough.


I just switched to 10w30 Mobil 1 high mileage oil. I rarely get the knocking (VANOS hubs) on startup anymore. 1 out of every 7-8 starts I will hear the VANOS. All other times it is silent.


When I was running Castrol 0w30, I got the noise every single time.
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:55 AM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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I'm pretty Interested to see what If the correct oil will help. I'm sure it will.

Last edited by 540isaac; 08-17-2016 at 06:57 AM.
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  #22  
Old 08-17-2016, 07:09 PM
hbluthi hbluthi is offline
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Originally Posted by 540isaac View Post
I'm pretty Interested to see what If the correct oil will help. I'm sure it will.
I saw that ninja edit with my two ninja eyes!
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  #23  
Old 08-17-2016, 07:15 PM
540isaac 540isaac is online now
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Haha didnt even notice
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  #24  
Old 08-17-2016, 07:18 PM
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540 Hammer 540 Hammer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540isaac View Post
I'm pretty Interested to see what If the correct oil will help. I'm sure it will.
Using a thicker viscosity will help. In my experience, over 25 years, it's always done the trick. The BMW LL-01 won't change the clicking; it's meets the demanding BMW specs and should always be used. G.L.!
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Old 08-18-2016, 09:32 AM
hbluthi hbluthi is offline
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If you change your oil every 5,000 to 7,000 miles, who cares if it is LL-01...it won't make a difference.
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