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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #351  
Old 04-05-2011, 10:48 AM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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Pinout for abs module

So did anyone post what are the pin numbers for the most common problem of the connectors lifing off the pad. Seems like the easiest thing to test. Like if they are the power pins what numbers are they so I dont have to cut open the box to find out.
I guess they would show open with ground by checking on the bench with a short tester.
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  #352  
Old 04-05-2011, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
what are the pin numbers for the most common problem of the connectors lifing off the pad.
I can see you did your homework.

So did I on this problem when I had it. I started not even knowing if I had ASC or DSC and then was able to solve my problem with the help of the guys here (and without 540iman, we'd still be guessing!).

So, for another quantum leap, maybe someone will chime in with the ABS control module pinout (I hope they do!) to test ... but I don't know of any offhand.

It's a GREAT question though ... especially since it seems to be the most common problem. The 'same' steel wire lifts off the 'same' gold bondpad 'most' of the time (from the reports we have of those who opened 'em up).

If we had a pinout of the ABS control module and a resistance check for that steel power wire ... THAT would be a GREAT test of the ABS control module w/o opening it up!

BTW, the rebuilders will still work on your ABS control module even if you open it up ... so that's the other way (albeit, not as nice as a resistance test).
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  #353  
Old 04-05-2011, 12:05 PM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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Pinout for abs module

so someone gave the speed sensor pinouts and not the power pinouts? Wow that is weird.
Seems like alot of work has been put towards testing everything before you send in your module like no one is really trying to fix the module.

I saw a video from a guy who spent 1600 dollars on the abs repair only to find out the grounds under the hood were bad. Wow.

Checked out on youtube a video on the repair I can ask that guy what pin he soldered. They told him he could not solder it to fix it apparently he did not know that and now a year later it is still working.

I guess I can look at a wiring diagram and figure it out but tracing the cable.

Thanks for all your efforts a great writeup hopefully we will get the pinouts posted. I see the older version cable is posted.
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  #354  
Old 04-05-2011, 01:33 PM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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testing sensors

All sensors test to about 1.67v and Infinite, I used the standard pins from an old computer jumper block broke off two pins and slipped them in the square holes worked fine. Need to cut open the box. Everyone who is seeing the p0500 may not need to reset the p0500 and if they do they must drive the vehicle to reset the monitors(mils) mine reset in about 30-40 miles. The computer system has to wait for these monitors to come back on line after codes are erased just standard way all obdII computers work can read online.
I think most people reset the codes run up to the inspection station only to find out their mils have not started up yet. So check them before you head up to the testing station and wait for them to come ready. Each state has different rules on which and how many mils can be out. Funny that bmw set p0500 to turn on the ses this is not required to pass emissions so to do this forces many people to go to dealer or shop instead of autozone do a code reset and take your test. Dont know why bmw did this. Most abs and traction control is not part of emissions testing. In fact on my older bmws that have abs not one of them has ever needed abs service only the ones with asc or dsc including when bmw owned landrover. Well thats enough. I have seen bad solder connections since my 1978 530i which had a fuel pump relay attached to the engine with a harness that went to the body. When it went bad all you had to do was turn a corner and have the engine lean and the car would die but like all these problems they are small compared to cars that dont handle properly.
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  #355  
Old 04-05-2011, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
so someone gave the speed sensor pinouts and not the power pinouts? Wow that is weird
Actually, we have the entire pinout of both the old and new ABS control module harness connector.

Bill, who really got this going (540iman), told us what to expect for the 8 pins which innervate the sensors - that was the key impetus for the well-used solution outlined in this thread.

What we would now need, to take your wonderful idea to the next stage, is to figure out WHICH PIN is the specific steel pin that lifts off its gold bondpad. Me? I've only seen it in the DIYs. So, someone else is going to have to let us know WHICH PIN is the pin that is lifting up.

Once we know which pin it is, we can devise a test.

Another pinout that should be obvious to the 'thinkers' here is how to test power and ground on the ABS control module connector. The reason that is important is that a few people can't get good readings from their sensor tests.

Personally, I didn't need it (my sensors tested with the classic expected response); however others aren't so lucky.

If we had a good 'check-my-voltmeter' type test, that would be immensely helpful for those who have problem results from their sensor tests.

So, I ask the tribal team to pitch in once more on these two goals:

Q1: What is a good voltage or resistance or diode test of the DMM that we can run on the ABS Control Module Harness Connector so those with problem sensor readings can at least doublecheck their technique?

Q2: What is the actual pin on the ABS Control Module Harness Connector that corresponds to the larger steel wire that is known to be lifting off its gold bondpad?
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  #356  
Old 04-05-2011, 03:48 PM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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open up its the tech

Well so I looked inside remember when cutting it open to not try to go down in the grove just cut horizontially just above the grove and work your way around with a sharp razar. If you start at the end furthest away from the connector and cut the sides and the angles the back closest to the connector the lid will just pivot up when you get the blade under the cover all the way around except the straight line across the back. Do not let your blade go down there is a chance you could snag something just keep it flat.

Anyhow my problem is the connector with the red line. It is not touching on the side with the board just kind of floating. I did a continuity test between the metal plate around the board and the connector which was still connected on the tab side. It is a ground or something else is seriously wrong. Anyhow I will check which pin brings ground into that connector from the plug side. Hope it is a ground. It is one of the steel v shaped connectors hope you can see it in the photo.
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  #357  
Old 04-05-2011, 03:52 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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The plot thickens...
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  #358  
Old 04-05-2011, 04:51 PM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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Actually the goop is pretty thick. This is simple my pins 27 and 31 are tied to this tab. Kind of figured. I guess it thinks two sensors are out. Of course there could be more. I dont think people understand how small this stuff is, the picture acutally makes it look almost viewable.

I know it would be much easier for someone to check a pin to decide if they need to send it in to have it repaired but just knowing 27 and 31 are tied together does not mean you have it all. I am thinking the diagnostic is fairly ok but the repair could be no fun at all.

I actually had someone worried that you should not repair this yourself. Considering it failed on a snowy night on the penn turnpike I can honestly say who cares. How can you do much worse than have the thing crap out on you when you think it is going to work.

Remember pump your pedal and steer into that slide this along with duck and cover are just too good. Talk about out of control.
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  #359  
Old 04-05-2011, 06:22 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
Actually the goop is pretty thick.
Yes. We have a whole thread dedicated to removing that snot-like goop!
- removing "snot-like" goo from ABS circuit board- Bluebee pls. read!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
my pins 27 and 31 are tied to this tab.
Wow. I'm not sure I understand how you figured that out, but, if it's right, then all we need to do is check pins 27 to 31 in the ABS control module harness connector for ??? (what) ???

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  #360  
Old 04-07-2011, 01:00 PM
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microswitch microswitch is offline
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Hum .. 27 and 31.... So maybe , just maybe if we simply try a ohm test on these 2 wires and the circuit show open ( OL) maybe it is the indication that one of those wires came off the Control Unit circuit board ???? ....... If that is the case guys and doll we may have just devised a way to check the module for needing rebuilding..
On a second note.. what happens if the sent the unit to be rebuilt and the unit is perfectly fine, do these company charge you anyway telling you that they fix it when the unit was ok anyway ?

Last edited by microswitch; 04-07-2011 at 09:24 PM.
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  #361  
Old 04-08-2011, 11:59 AM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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Well took me long enough

Anyhow the 27 is not what I thought it was but 31 is the pin you indicated for one of the sensors. Someone already mentioned that you can do a simple continuity test provided the other end of the connection is not tied into the board which in my case it was not.
So attach a nice pin to the end of your prove so that you can puncture thru the goo and you test each pin and those are the two that came up. Again sorry for the delay. By the way this went out slow worked didnt work worked .... which explains the thing broke then the goo held for awhile then that was it. I will try epoxing the lead just to see if I can get it to work again and take a few more readings.

Any new news?
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  #362  
Old 04-08-2011, 12:10 PM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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Testing 27 and 31

27 and 31 would not show open or they could if something was wrong before the tab.
They should show short but that test with the box closed means nothing. Here is what I did . I opened the box found one of the silver colored wires not attached to the board
(indicated in the pic) the wire is still attached I believe to the tab but I made sure it was not attached to the board by lifting it up. Put the probe on the tab and started touching pins. 27 and 31 showed shorted or closed and rang my dmm. What these pins do when in a circuit is tbd. If 27 and 31 show open there is something wrong but not with the wire I tested if 27 and 31 are shorted could just be the tab conducting. Does that make sense?
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  #363  
Old 04-14-2011, 05:54 AM
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Here is an E46 Bosch DSC III 5.7 training manuals for reference use.

Also are some diagrams that are especially useful for our debugging needs.



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  #364  
Old 04-14-2011, 10:27 AM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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thanks very much for the info. Will ask some friends today for a stereo microscope to repair my orginal e39 module. I replaced my bosch 5.7 abs module with one from a 2001 740il and
my dsc light is still on but everything else is off. I have read a couple of blurbs on disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and then reconnecting the battery and turning the wheel lock to lock to reset the sas. How would the sas know to go into reset mode. I think this is something that works on rovers but not on bmw. Anyone have information other than get a gt1 and go to the sas recalibrate.

Thanks for the help.


Will still provide pin outs from old abs module, currently all the silver leads come out to pins but trying to figure out what someone could test to know that the wires have come off their pads without opening the unit.
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  #365  
Old 04-14-2011, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
Will ask some friends today for a stereo microscope to repair my orginal e39 module.
This thread is a classic for the DIY repair of the steel wire that lifts off the gold bondpad or the angel-hair gold wires that flop in the thinning goop:
- Bill's ABS control module autopsy (all you need to know for your own repair)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
I replaced my bosch 5.7 abs module with one from a 2001 740il and my dsc light is still on but everything else is off.
I'm curious. It's probably not the cause of your DSC light; but, did you reset the VIN when you replaced the ABS control module?
- What happens if you don't code the VIN into a new ABS module

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
I have read a couple of blurbs on disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and then reconnecting the battery and turning the wheel lock to lock to reset the sas
Hmmm... All of us have resolved this problem and the only thing we needed to reset the trifecta was to fix the problem. Also, the only thing we needed to reset the SES was to clear the codes (e.g., P0500 wheel speed sensor):
- P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction

I'm not sure 'what' you mean by "SAS"?

Looking in the BMW dictionary for SAS:
- BMW E39 technoterms, acronyms, glossary, definitions slang, technical terms, abbreviations (1)

Do you mean?
SAS = secondary air system as in S.A.S Pierburg Air Pump

If so, I'm not sure what 'that' has to do with the ABS errors.
If you meant SES (or CEL), then see my explanation above.
It clears itself and any hidden codes can be cleared with the BMW drive cycle or a scanner:
- How to better understand the key EPA federal test procedure (FTP) concept of the BMW SES "drive cycle" (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
Will still provide pin outs from old abs module, currently all the silver leads come out to pins but trying to figure out what someone could test to know that the wires have come off their pads without opening the unit.
It would be WONDERFUL to nail down a simple non-invasive diagnostic for the steel wire lifting off the gold bondpad!
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  #366  
Old 04-14-2011, 04:39 PM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
This thread is a classic for the DIY repair of the steel wire that lifts off the gold bondpad or the angel-hair gold wires that flop in the thinning goop:
- Bill's ABS control module autopsy (all you need to know for your own repair)

>>No my problem is getting the stereo microscope and then a suitable weld station or deciding which epoxy will hold up over time. Just cannot see those things and as I pointed out there is at least all the silver wires should be redone I believe all of them where floating in the goop. How did they all pop off and crack. I have heard heat and vibration replace the rubber and put up a heat shield. Do you know if this is the problem?

Still looking for a good writeup on a repair. Bills writeup is honest and to the point he will go get his wifes camera with a ZOOOM lens. Please do not blow up the pictures. This stuff requires a microscope. If someone could give me the magnification level that they felt comfortable with given 20/20 vision with or without correction so that they could go in and start soldering or glueing please put that in the writeup. I have two stations that I use with lights and magnification that I used with old solder boards. Can't really use them for this.

I would need the microscope about 200 and solder station about 70.

I would send it for re-manufacturing but I don't know what they do. Normally you state what is done in the process. What is reconditioned, repaired, rebuilt and new and any engineering modifications whether software or hardware. Some even provide test results along with the module. Its ok if you just do repair just say it. If any of these companies wanted to help their business they would be telling us to check pins x and y based on the the codes and information provided you could construct a test matrix to examine the cores before they are sent in for re what ever. Similar to the work you have done in looking at the peripheral devices (sensors) to determine if they are functioning properly.

<<

I'm curious. It's probably not the cause of your DSC light; but, did you reset the VIN when you replaced the ABS control module?
- What happens if you don't code the VIN into a new ABS module

>>I think the problem is still under investigation but don't think the vin would do anything. More like parameters being out of whack or setting parameters after replacing parts.
<<

Hmmm... All of us have resolved this problem and the only thing we needed to reset the trifecta was to fix the problem. Also, the only thing we needed to reset the SES was to clear the codes (e.g., P0500 wheel speed sensor):
- P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction

>>Yap cleared the code no new code waited for the mils to reset and it passed inspection.
<<

I'm not sure 'what' you mean by "SAS"?

Looking in the BMW dictionary for SAS:
- BMW E39 technoterms, acronyms, glossary, definitions slang, technical terms, abbreviations (1)

Do you mean?
SAS = secondary air system as in S.A.S Pierburg Air Pump

>>Sorry, Steering Angle Sensor I have acronym anomia from a previous life still looking for a cure (sftc). What else turns on the dsc light except turning off dsc?
<<

If so, I'm not sure what 'that' has to do with the ABS errors.
If you meant SES (or CEL), then see my explanation above.
It clears itself and any hidden codes can be cleared with the BMW drive cycle or a scanner:
- How to better understand the key EPA federal test procedure (FTP) concept of the BMW SES "drive cycle" (1)

It would be WONDERFUL to nail down a simple non-invasive diagnostic for the steel wire lifting off the gold bondpad!
>>As mentioned above if you have any pull with the re-manufactures maybe they would say pin x and y are open then you definitely have a problem. Well I will keep looking and hopefully we can ease the pain. $1800 for a car worth $5000 kill your resale market and start deflating the price of the new ones. I like that.
<<
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  #367  
Old 04-15-2011, 12:07 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
all the silver wires should be redone I believe all of them where floating in the goop. How did they all pop off and crack
I wish EVERYONE would look at the guts of their ABS control module (including myself) when it breaks down (we didn't know what we know now when I had the problem or I would have looked also).

It's interesting that ALL your steel wires needed to be redone. I notice you call them "silver". If you get a chance, would you kindly magnetize a needle and let us know if they're magnetic or not? thanks.

As for WHY they popped off their gold bondpads, I suspect it's in that autopsy thread where we found a press statement to the effect of BMW touted their ability to "save money" by putting the ABS control module in the engine compartment next to all that heat and vibration!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
Still looking for a good writeup on a repair
At the time of that autopsy thread, I had scoured the net (including finding the animated-GIF Russian ABS control module autopsy). I haven't looked since, but, at the time, the references in that thread were all that we had.

It would be nice if someone else runs a search, and finds new information for you, as DIYs my have improved over time, and people have different search techniques (I have a few tricks I use, but others may have different tricks for finding information).

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
I would send it for re-manufacturing but I don't know what they do.
Somewhere in the record is my recollection of my conversation by phone with ATE. I got the distinct feeling they were lying to me when they told me they 'replace capacitors and resistors and diodes" (from memory, a year later, but see my writeup when it actually occurred).

Here's what I 'suspect' they do:
  • They test your ABS control module on a test jig
  • They open it up and remove the goop where needed
  • They fix the steel wires that lift off their gold bondpads
  • They fix the gold angel hairs that flop around intermitently
  • They replace the goop and put it back on the test jig
  • If all is well, they seal it up and send it back
Of course, that's merely conjecture on my part ... so ... anyone with more intimate knowledge ... please correct as needed.

In fact, we should have EVERYONE who gets their ABS control module repaird ASK the rebuilders what they're doing and report back to us!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
if you have any pull with the re-manufactures
I don't have ANY pull with anyone!

All I have are my written words!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwshifter View Post
$1800 for a car worth $5000 kill your resale market
What is $1,800? A new module is $450 + recoding fees (of about $100).
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  #368  
Old 04-15-2011, 12:16 PM
bmwshifter bmwshifter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I wish EVERYONE would look at the guts of their ABS control module (including myself) when it breaks down (we didn't know what we know now when I had the problem or I would have looked also).

It's interesting that ALL your steel wires needed to be redone. I notice you call them "silver". If you get a chance, would you kindly magnetize a needle and let us know if they're magnetic or not? thanks.

> not magnetic so they are not steel, did not tarnish still shiny might be silver solder
> interesting at the other side where the grounds are brought in no problem.
> Even the longer wires and gold are not broken. So why these wires? Change from hall
> effect sensors current flow? Goo motion? OK we can think about it.
>
> If you look down at the open module so that the silver wires in
> question are at the top then starting with the first silver wire as number 1 you get the
> following pairing for the sensors left rear(lr) 13 is 3 29 is 4, rr 30-6 31-8, lf 29-2 12-1,
> rf 15-7 16-9 which maps all the failing sensors to the silver colored leads no wonder
> the sensors look like they are failing.
>
> I cant read anything except open close because these are broken off the
> board if I come up with something simple like open, close between pins
> or a ohm reading will post obviously something we can not do with
> power because we are reading the pins.
> by the way pin 14 is mapped to 5 which is not used.
> So we have 9 minus the one not used so far
> which gives you the 8 leads everyone is testing to see if sensors are bad.
>
> The tenth is the one sitting by itself which is actually pin 25 after rechecking
> not 27 and 31 as previously indicated I guess nobody disagreed.

As for WHY they popped off their gold bondpads, I suspect it's in that autopsy thread where we found a press statement to the effect of BMW touted their ability to "save money" by putting the ABS control module in the engine compartment next to all that heat and vibration!

> did not pop off they are broken at both ends leaving a piece of wire on each pad

At the time of that autopsy thread, I had scoured the net (including finding the animated-GIF Russian ABS control module autopsy). I haven't looked since, but, at the time, the references in that thread were all that we had.

> the Russian module is not the 5.7

It would be nice if someone else runs a search, and finds new information for you, as DIYs my have improved over time, and people have different search techniques (I have a few tricks I use, but others may have different tricks for finding information).

>Search for Bosch 5.7 dsc as pointed out it is on alot of vehicles

Somewhere in the record is my recollection of my conversation by phone with ATE. I got the distinct feeling they were lying to me when they told me they 'replace capacitors and resistors and diodes" (from memory, a year later, but see my writeup when it actually occurred).

Here's what I 'suspect' they do:
  • They test your ABS control module on a test jig
  • They open it up and remove the goop where needed
  • They fix the steel wires that lift off their gold bondpads
  • They fix the gold angel hairs that flop around intermitently
  • They replace the goop and put it back on the test jig
  • If all is well, they seal it up and send it back
Of course, that's merely conjecture on my part ... so ... anyone with more intimate knowledge ... please correct as needed.

> I will call them and ask them if they know a simple test to check the module.
> Otherwise I will try to figure out what to test. Maybe someone with a
> repaired module can tell us what they get. Sensors seem a good place to start.

In fact, we should have EVERYONE who gets their ABS control module repaird ASK the rebuilders what they're doing and report back to us!



I don't have ANY pull with anyone!

All I have are my written words!



What is $1,800? A new module is $450 + recoding fees (of about $100).
>I'm talking bimmer dollars. Otherwise $450 or less is about right. Thanks again for all >your work it is helping people drive a car that I think handles like nothing else I have >driven and I would like to think I can turn off all the things they are trying to do to steer >and brake the car for me. I like the feel and the sound, BMW please switch off the abs >with the dsc so these systems don't start corrupting my driving experience when I want >me driving and the computers turned off. I wan to fell a slide and pump my brakes.
>This is a company that could not understand why or how to put in a cup holder. I think
>they wanted you to drive the car and stop sitting in the living room. I know that drivers
>licenses are handed out without a thought oh well. OK I'm done ranting.
>Well come to think of it I did have everything off , never-mind.

> the only thing standing between me and immortality was the goop or the slime that
> superficially held things in place, make sure you check those wires!
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  #369  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:19 AM
jasonjsimon jasonjsimon is offline
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Another Victim

Okay, so I've got a bad ABS module as well. This is pretty well confirmed because I have performed the speed sensor tests and all checked out well.

I believe I have a unique case though - please correct me if I'm wrong. My ABS codes are for the 'left front inlet valve' and the 'brake light switch'. I replaced the brake light switch which of course didn't resolve the problem.

Having seen the inlet valve codes highlighted on a few websites as some sort of total module failure I decided to ask the top 3 rebuilders if they could fix a module with this code. BBA and MM came back and said they can't fix these. ATE said it could go either way, but won't know until they can work on it and test it.

Because my chances of getting a successful rebuild look to be slim, I'm very tempted to open up my module and see if I can find any bad solder joints and try to fix them. Obviously if my module is software corrupted or has a more serious problem, it won't help. But I guess it wouldn't hurt to try.

My question to the group though is, did anyone have an inlet valve error code in their ABS prior to a successful rebuild? This would really help me make my decision on what to do next...

Thanks for a great and informative thread.

Last edited by jasonjsimon; 04-20-2011 at 08:22 AM.
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  #370  
Old 04-20-2011, 10:52 AM
jasonjsimon jasonjsimon is offline
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Location: Saratoga Springs, Utah
 
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Update

I carefully removed the cover on my module and found that same steel connection to be broken. As I was removing the goop in the area, I damaged a few of the gold wires. Let that be a warning to everyone - how easy it is to break the gold wires nearby. Now I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to repair them myself. I was able to fix 2 of them since the gold wire was still attached to one of the pads, but I have about 4 more to go where there is no gold wire attached. Stupid mistake!
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  #371  
Old 04-20-2011, 03:32 PM
jasonjsimon jasonjsimon is offline
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Quick update. I had some good luck fixing the pads that originally had the microscopic gold wires. I was using a single thread of copper from a speaker wire. I used a long piece and dipped the end in flux. I then cut the remaining wire off once both pads were soldered. This worked great as I was able to maintain control of the wire and keep it steady until both pads were soldered.

The bad news is that I had a problem with one pad essentially disappearing as I was soldering to it. This could eliminate any chances of reviving this module.

Just for kicks, I taped it back up and put it back in the car. I went to start it up and my battery was dead. I have it on the charger and should be able to test it in the next little while. We'll see what happens.

Last edited by jasonjsimon; 04-20-2011 at 03:34 PM.
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  #372  
Old 04-20-2011, 04:08 PM
jasonjsimon jasonjsimon is offline
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Okay folks. Unfortunately my module must be dead now. My ABS, DSC, EML, SES, and Star w/ exclamation lights all were on with the module back in. No Tachometer, temp guage pegged in the red, and no other gauge worked. I tried cleaning up my joints, but that didn't help.

Looks like I get to buy another module and get it recoded. I guess my chances of needing to do that were high anyway. I'm looking to buy a used one from 2000 540i and I have a 2001 530i. That should work right? They seem to have the same part number.
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  #373  
Old 04-20-2011, 04:45 PM
bobdmac bobdmac is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 540i/6, '90 BMW k75s
Sorry to hear that. Jimmys 530i, on this board, may have a module you can use. He recently helped edmonem.
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  #374  
Old 04-20-2011, 05:02 PM
jasonjsimon jasonjsimon is offline
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Darn. I wish I knew that before I took a chance on an Ebay auction. Hopefully this module will work for my 530i.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=280660825651

Thanks.
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  #375  
Old 04-21-2011, 10:14 AM
jcvara jcvara is offline
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would this be the same issue if my DSC, ABS, & SES lights are on?
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