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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #651  
Old 03-14-2013, 11:24 AM
barcodescanner barcodescanner is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW 528i
Dangit, I knew I should have taken pictures! The sensor was incredibly filthy. I've logged over 100 miles since I cleaned it with no issues, so I'm hopeful. And thanks for the advice about non-oem parts. I'll keep that in mind if I wind up replacing it.

One thing I forgot to mention: my brake light wasn't on. I don't know if that means anything - just adding to the information. Hopefully, I won't have an update for you.
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  #652  
Old 03-14-2013, 10:06 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barcodescanner View Post
my brake light wasn't on.
We call that the bifecta. I'm not sure if there is any significance though, as the repairs 'appear' to be the same with the bifecta as with the trifecta. Others will know more than I whether or not it's a significant diagnostic hint...

EDIT: This was posted elsewhere today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
I would like to jump to this thread with my '97 528i issue. I started another thread but this one is more appropriate.

Now to my problem, I had abs and brake warning lights and shifting problems last year and replaced the front two wheel speed sensors.
All seemed OK until we had a snow storm a couple weeks ago and the ABS lights are on again. This time its a bit different. Now the speedometer, fuel economy gauge, cruise, ASC and odometer do not work at all.

I replaced both rear wheel sensors and still have the same issue!
I used PEX sensors in the front and I liked the way they looked - like really good quality and indistinguishable from the OEM Siemens.

So of course I sought out PEX for the rear and put those in. I understand the speedometer issues are reported to be caused by the left rear speed sensor.
Today I took all the sensors back out and read their resistance which all looked ok and rechecked the connections and that all looked good.
I swapped the left rear with the right rear and that had no effect.

I also tried to read the resistance at the ABS module under the dash. I do not have great confidence that I got good readings but I did get roughly 4.6K ohms at each front sensor pinout.
The rears were a bit different whereby I did get similar readings sometimes and then I got readings like 250k ohms.
I cannot tell if its the method or not but I had to use micro screwdrivers to get into the pinouts and then put the meter's leads up to them.

So now I need to know what else can cause a dead speedometer, cruise, etc?
I will try to find someone local who can read the codes for me as I only have a Peake series 2 and it does not read ABS. I get no faults.

Also attached are pics of what my wheel sensor problems were. The insulation was brittle and crumbling, exposing the copper wiring.
On the front I actually ran a tiny wire tie between the conductors to keep the wires from touching each other until my news sensors arrived and that worked (pic).
On the rear the condition was a bit worse where the conductor on the left side was actually severed (pic).
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Last edited by bluebee; 03-14-2013 at 10:20 PM.
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  #653  
Old 03-14-2013, 10:26 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, this is the most often recommended ABS control module rebuilder:
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Bosch-5-...0fb31f&vxp=mtr
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  #654  
Old 03-17-2013, 09:44 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This interesting story was posted recently to the BPS Error 81 brake pressure sensor thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Microflight View Post
Trifecta - Brake Pressure Sensor 81 error code - not Sensor but Module


2003 E 39 After a previous post I made starting with an 81 error code which would have been the brake pressure sensor, I back probed the sensor and saw that it was giving credible values. I then concluded ( guessed) that it was the module.

A BMW tech friend identified a rebuilder that he used and liked - Module Master in of all places Moscow Idaho (actually near Spokane Washington) phone 888-892-0764 and on the web.

They quoted 300 for the Bosch 5.7 module. Their terms are 5 day turn. If the Module has no error on the inbound check, there is only the shipping charge. If the module is unrepairable, for $75 additional they will send you a good unit - remembering that you will have to reprogram the VIN into it so there would be that additional charge when you got it back. Module Master provides a 5 year warranty.

I sent the module, they repaired and returned it to me. I installed it and the ABS, DSC and Brake warning lights went out on start - normal. One day later aver a number of short trips the service engine soon light also went out. NERVANA

The report from Module Master is as follows: "Repaired damage to power return circuit and 8 line sensor driver section to restore proper module operation. Installed high current shunt to protect power return circuit from future failure. Unit now powers up and executes self test and functions perfectly on test fixture without any error codes."

I conclude that this module was unerdesigned and while surviving for a number of years was bound to fail. Given the number of failures and the common knowledge among the Indy's I know that they immediately are aware and have experienced the problem with the module

As for error codes, one has to be careful in assessing a fault code that is based upon a network communication like the ABS module. I am certain from the DME and ABS module prospective, the error is that it is not receiving the communication from the Brake Pressur Sensor, but once you verify the brake pressure sensor is sending signal, the culprit are the wires or the module as was the case here in the module.

While I could have opened the module and attempted the repair, I sense that it would be sublect to failure again without the shunt. $300 is a lot - peace of mind is priceless

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  #655  
Old 03-19-2013, 05:35 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I just found out about this interesting thread, which cn90 posted useful information to, for the rear axle trifecta, where the sensor broke upon replacement ... so I wish to cross reference it here for anyone unfortunate enough to be in a similar situation:
Quote:
Originally Posted by readyandwilling View Post
I have read about tons have guys having the DCS 3 light trio come on and today it happened to me. At the same time I noticed that my cruise control would no longer work. From all the reading I had done I thought no big deal since the cruise doesn't work it is the rear passenger speed sensor I will pull it out clean it and see if it clears and just in case I ordered a new one.

Well now the trouble starts!!!
I put the car on jack stands, pulled of the passenger rear wheel, located the blue connector, disconnected it, went to the other end of the wire pulled out the bolt holding it into the wheel housing and the plastic starts breaking appart. By the time I removed the bolt all that was left was the sensor housing itself, which would not release from the wheel housing. I sprayed it with WD-40 to try and get it to release, nothing. I gave it a little tap to try and free it, nothing. I now resorted to pulling on the wires at the same time as tapping it since I already have a new one on the way, nothing. I then put a flat blade screw driver where the sensor meets the wheel housing and gave it a little tap tap to try and free it while pulling on the wires. Well, lets just say that did not go very good and now I am SCREWED!!

The sensor now broke clean off at the housing. NOW WHAT!!!

I thought of just punching an easy out in there to see if I can get it to turn and come out but I am concerned that being plastic it will just disintegrate , which may not be bad, but I do not know what else is in there that could also be damaged by this approach. If it is going to fall apart I should just punch a screw driver in there break it up and let the pieces fall out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Have a look at the anatomy first.

Any modern Drive Axle (whether FWD or RWD) has a spline which mates to the Hub that turns the wheel. Just proximal to the Spline is a whole bunch of teeth that the vehicle speed sensor relies on to "read" the speed.

Take any modern BMW: at installation, the Axle is threaded through the Rear Bearing, The Splines sit out the outside for the Hub to be attached to; and the Teeth stay inside a little recess where the Speed Sensor is attached to. This is a tight space:



And removing the Rear Axle is no fun, trust me.

You don't want to leave any remnant inside because it can damage a brand new sensor.
My suggestion is:
- Get a telescopic magnetic tool and try to fish it out (the speed sensor is usally magnetic in nature).
- Use a picking tool to pick it.
- The worst case scenario is loosening the 36-mm axle nut and try to loosen a few balljoints to get the axle loose a bit so the remaining speed sensor can fall out.

Post a feedback so others can benefit from.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
- The Hydraulic Modulator (the portion with brake lines) is controlled by the Electrical Component (a whole bunch of solenoids activated by the ABS ECU).
- Whenever people complain about bad ABS Module, it is usually Electrical Component and not the Hydraulic Modulator.
At the dealer, the software opens and closes these valves to expel any trapped air out of the ABS Module while they bleed the system.

Options:
1. Dealer to bleed air out of ABS Modulator: expensive!

2. You can DIY if you are "ready and willing".
- Remove the Electrical Component: You will notice that there are 12 valves total, 3 per circuit (4 circuits/car):



- Now read this carefully.
I wrote this DIY: 1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor!
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=392957

- Now figure out which circuit goes to which wheel and ask an assistant to press down on the three (3) valves that control let's say circuit "A" while you bleed the brake caliper from circuit "A". By pressing down the 3 valves, all the air is expelled out of the ABS Modulator when you open the bleed nipple on the brake caliper of that particular circuit!

- Again read my DIY and do NOT ever let air inside the Reservoir ---> ABS Modulator b/c you will start all over again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post

1. At the brake caliper, open and close the nipple as you would normally do for any brake. But if you read my DIY 1-man bleeding kit, the pressure comes from the Brake Reservoir (keep it at 10-15 psi), so you basically open the brake nipple slightly a bit to allow air to get out.

2. ABS Unit, after the Electrical Portion is removed, it will be obvious to you a row of 3 valves controls one circuit.
You can press these by hand.
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  #656  
Old 03-24-2013, 06:58 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For those with the older E39s, with the ABS control module in the cockpit, there are two threads today, both apparently trying to make sure that the diagrams in this thread above are accurate.
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > ABS difference?
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 1997 ABS connector test

I don't have the older E39, so, I ask those who do to clarify (for all) what posts above are correct, and which are in error.

Thanks!
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  #657  
Old 03-24-2013, 07:53 PM
barcodescanner barcodescanner is offline
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Just wanted to update that I've put several hundred miles on my 528i since cleaning the sensor and have not had any problems. On Tuesday, I leave for a 1500 mile trip to VA, so I've got my fingers crossed.
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  #658  
Old 03-29-2013, 08:56 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barcodescanner View Post
Just wanted to update that I've put several hundred miles on my 528i since cleaning the sensor and have not had any problems.
Thanks for the update. Almost three hundred thousands views have been recorded on this thread, so, it's good to add all the anecdotal evidence we can, so that the NEXT person starts where we left off.

To that end, an owner of the older Bosch 5.0 ABS has reported the following observations in this thread today ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
Today I ran some further tests on my '97, early system with Bosch 5.0 ABS. (ABS and ASC lights on, no cruise, no speedometer, trans does not lock up in 4th gear, etc.)

Test 1: Measured resistance at the ABS module (under dash) of each wheel speed sensor (all new PEX):
FL, pins 10 & 35 = 3.92 M Ohm
FR, pins 14 & 15 = 4.16M Ohm
RL, pins 12 & 13 = 4.67M Ohm
RR, pins 38 & 11 = 8.33M Ohm
I think these all look reasonable but the concern I have is when I compare these (PEX) to my original WSS I see a huge difference. The originals (Siemens) all read about 3.07K Ohms. What do you guys think? Remember, the front sensors read properly and the rear do not read at all per a code scan by BMW two days ago.

Test 2: This was to see what reading I got at a WSS (PEX). I disconnected the RR and measured resistance to be 4.95M Ohms. The interesting thing is that between the WSS and the ABS module I pick up another 3.38M Ohms. But all of the readings at the ABS module are in the 4 - 8 M (mega) range.

Test 3: was to spin the wheel (manually) with the WSS disconnected from the harness and the Volt meter connected to the WSS. I did see a slight output in voltage if I spun the wheel quickly. I tried the same measurement at the ABS module harness and could not really see any voltage or fluctuation when the RR wheel was spun.

Test 4: was to measure the old Siemens WSS in the diode mode even though these are the older Variable Reluctance sensors that only get tested for resistance. Anyway I got 0.72V one way and 1.572V when leads were reversed. This is informational only as I have no idea if it means anything. By the way, the old Siemens sensors seem to provide good readings even though the wire insulation was crumbling and bare conductors were seen on all of them. Perhaps this explains why they only acted up when car was driven on wet or salty/slushy roads.

Right now I am leaning towards the ABS 5.0 module being bad but I need to rationalize why one PEX sensor reads higher resistance than the other three, at the module, and whether their overall much higher resistances than the Siemens is a concern. Does anyone have any thoughts on whether improper WSS output from salty wet conditions can cause the ABS module to fail? Evidence is beginning to point in this direction. To complicate matters I had a transmission position sensor fail, when the salty water got in it, at the same time. That is now replaced and working well. I am not sure if any output from the position sensor feeds into the ABS module, but if it does the module was sure bombarded with lots of bad readings that perhaps it could not handle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
Since you have indentified high resistance on RR wiring you need to figure out why and fix it. How does car side wheel speed sensor connector look like? Any corrosion? Any visible wear on the wiring? I still say the module is OK and the issue is with wiring/sensors. As you noticed there is a large difference between PEX sensors are Siemens sensors. I'd be quite worried how that effects the systems performance. As I said these systems are quite delicate and any improper sensor reading can cause it to malfuction. Since the rear sensors aren't working per diagnostic equipment I would buy one siemens sensor and install it, then check with diagnostic equipment to see, if it can get a proper reading. The issue with aftermarket sensors is that some of them work and some don't. Many have tried the aftermarket sensor and discoved that it isin't working as it should.

I don't see how any wheel speed sensor output could harm the ABS module.

Do you have your own scanner that can read ABS livedata? If you don't have I would suggest you to get one. I think the best bang for buck solution is INPA ($20-60). You can find all the information about it in the VERY best of E39 Links.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
PEX sensors are German made and PEX is an OEM to BMW so I do not include them in the same context as 'after market' suppliers. I understand Siemens is the original equipment but PEX is not junk, and they work well in the front on my car. I will keep them on the watch out list until I confirm what the issue is. I do not have a scanner, one reason being I use MAC and do not have a PC. I have a Peake reader which does not pick up ABS issues. Thanks for your help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nedmon View Post
My passenger rear wheel well sensor connection had a high resistance and I was able to clear the ABS light after fixing it.

Note that in all testing / checking over all my repair jobs, I never found a high resistance wire. It was always the connection.

Ned
Quote:
Originally Posted by nedmon View Post
All,

I have a V-401 scanner and it tells me which sensor is bad, and it can zap the airbag light too along with clearing codes.

Ned
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  #659  
Old 03-30-2013, 09:16 AM
newwt357 newwt357 is offline
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OK, so I have been reading up on all of this light trifecta over the last few weeks and through testing found the left rear sensior was bad. Ordered the part and replaced it yesterday, all three lights went out, speedo, trip, and fuel economy still not working. Drove it a couple more miles, all three lights came back on.....CRAP... ABS Unit??? Or any other ideas?? Thanks
My first post here but have been comming to these forums for awhile. Got a E34 525 1992, and a 2000 528i Touring. So also saying Hi from Western NY. Great info here, thanks to all for the help.
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  #660  
Old 03-30-2013, 11:35 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newwt357 View Post
OK, so I have been reading up on all of this light trifecta over the last few weeks and through testing found the left rear sensior was bad. Ordered the part and replaced it yesterday, all three lights went out, speedo, trip, and fuel economy still not working. Drove it a couple more miles, all three lights came back on.....CRAP... ABS Unit??? Or any other ideas?? Thanks
My first post here but have been comming to these forums for awhile. Got a E34 525 1992, and a 2000 528i Touring. So also saying Hi from Western NY. Great info here, thanks to all for the help.
How did you figure out the sensor was bad? You got open circuit or what? What brand is the new sensor? Have you tested that new sensor? Could be a wiring issue.
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  #661  
Old 03-30-2013, 01:04 PM
newwt357 newwt357 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
How did you figure out the sensor was bad? You got open circuit or what? What brand is the new sensor? Have you tested that new sensor? Could be a wiring issue.
Tested with a DMM, shown as bad, pulled the wheel and the wires to the left rear were busted/ frayed/ and broken. Put the new one in and it tested good, it is a OEM Replacement(belive it was a BMW Dealer part, came with the car when I got it earlier this month, PO got all parts from dealership) So what would be the next move? ABS Module?
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  #662  
Old 03-30-2013, 01:34 PM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newwt357 View Post
Tested with a DMM, shown as bad, pulled the wheel and the wires to the left rear were busted/ frayed/ and broken. Put the new one in and it tested good, it is a OEM Replacement(belive it was a BMW Dealer part, came with the car when I got it earlier this month, PO got all parts from dealership) So what would be the next move? ABS Module?
Did you clean the mounting surface before installing new sensor? So you tested the new sensor at the engine bay connector? If the answer to both is yes, them I'm afraid that is seems like ABS module issue. I would send it out for repairs. Your lucky that BBA-REMAN has a sale on module rapair. It has lifetime warranty and many users have been satisfied with their service. You can find it on sale here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Bosch-5-...0fb31f&vxp=mtr
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  #663  
Old 03-31-2013, 07:09 AM
newwt357 newwt357 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
Did you clean the mounting surface before installing new sensor? So you tested the new sensor at the engine bay connector? If the answer to both is yes, them I'm afraid that is seems like ABS module issue. I would send it out for repairs. Your lucky that BBA-REMAN has a sale on module rapair. It has lifetime warranty and many users have been satisfied with their service. You can find it on sale here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Bosch-5-...0fb31f&vxp=mtr
Yes tested it at engine bay, and the mounting point was clean. Also in my earlier post I stated i ordered the sensior which I did, but also speaking with the PO he told my there was one that he had gotten from the dealer in the car, so that was the one I used(OEM BMW)
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  #664  
Old 03-31-2013, 10:13 AM
Joelgk Joelgk is offline
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FR ABS Sensor replaced, problem persists

My Front Right ABS sensor came out defective in the scan (ASC orange triangle and ABS/Brake orange light on) Noticed that it was broken and withering away. Replaced it, however ended up with a bigger problem.

Assuming the sensor itself is the male part with the two pins. The female part that comes from the ABS module with two pin sockets to fit the male pins snug was so withered away that it broke in to several pieces when they were being fit back.

So, had to remove the blue plastic and clean the sockets as best as I could. It was oxidised. Fir the pins to the sockets, and sadly the lights continue to remain on.

What have I missed? Is there a part number for the female part that I can buy? Is this a connection issue or something more complicated? My ASC/ABS main module is only about 5 months old.

Also noticed that when I reconnected the battery, the temp gauge was going bonkers bouncing off from the left to the max hot right side of the gauge like 25 times before it settled as normal in the left end. Is this connected to the sensor issue?
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  #665  
Old 03-31-2013, 11:38 AM
BlackMagic BlackMagic is offline
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ECS sells sensor sockets, if that is what you need:
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-528.../ABS/ES164858/

http://c1552172.r72.cf0.rackcdn.com/19115_x600.jpg
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  #666  
Old 03-31-2013, 11:45 AM
HTK12 HTK12 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelgk View Post
My Front Right ABS sensor came out defective in the scan (ASC orange triangle and ABS/Brake orange light on) Noticed that it was broken and withering away. Replaced it, however ended up with a bigger problem.

Assuming the sensor itself is the male part with the two pins. The female part that comes from the ABS module with two pin sockets to fit the male pins snug was so withered away that it broke in to several pieces when they were being fit back.

So, had to remove the blue plastic and clean the sockets as best as I could. It was oxidised. Fir the pins to the sockets, and sadly the lights continue to remain on.

What have I missed? Is there a part number for the female part that I can buy? Is this a connection issue or something more complicated? My ASC/ABS main module is only about 5 months old.

Also noticed that when I reconnected the battery, the temp gauge was going bonkers bouncing off from the left to the max hot right side of the gauge like 25 times before it settled as normal in the left end. Is this connected to the sensor issue?
So the ABS wheel sensor connector that comes from the ABS unit is badly damaged now? If so go to local dealer and order a new connector. What brand of sensor did you buy?
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  #667  
Old 03-31-2013, 05:47 PM
Joelgk Joelgk is offline
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Got the Siemens sensors. OE replacement.
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  #668  
Old 03-31-2013, 05:50 PM
Joelgk Joelgk is offline
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Does the temp gauge bouncing left to right, point out to something ? I guess this is not normal, as I have never seen this happen before when the battery terminal was reconnected back.
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  #669  
Old 03-31-2013, 09:22 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HTK12 View Post
I always like to post screenshots to ephemeral links - so that this thread is still useful long after the links go stale ...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelgk View Post
the temp gauge was going bonkers bouncing
I've read every post in this thread, and, from memory only, I do remember the fuel gauge being reported as going bonkers (I saw it happen myself) related to the ABS system issues - but I don't recall the TEMPERATURE gauge going bonkers.

For more information on the temperature sensors, look here:
- How to replace the M54 dual temperature sensor (DTS, aka double temperature switch) in the M54 (1) (2) (3) (4) & how to make your own short DTS removal tool out of a 22mm or 7/8" box wrench (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
This is a nice reference link!

So that others find this thread useful, even after that link goes stale, I took the liberty of posting a screenshot to it just now ...


EDIT:
This bit of anecdotal information, posted today, may be of use to others:

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
Here is my Saturday update. I decided to run one more trial today. I checked out my original WSS that I removed and wanted to determine if one of them was good enough to put back into the rear left. That location would immediately tell me if the speedometer worked again. One of the sensors had a severed wire but the other had bare wires and a broken mounting bracket where the bolt goes through. I was able to put a tiny piece of plastic between the conductors, the same as I had done on the front, removed the new unit from the RL and installed this old sensor. Drove the car and voila - the speedometer, odometer and mpg computer were working. The ABS lights were still on and cruise and ASC would not work because I still had the PEX unit in the RR. Kudos to HTK12 for pushing me to be suspect of the PEX sensors. I have made arrangements to return the PEX sensors and will follow up with the overall learnings from this exercise as soon as the new VDO/Siemens are installed.
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Last edited by bluebee; 03-31-2013 at 09:40 PM.
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  #670  
Old 04-01-2013, 07:09 AM
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ECSTuning ECSTuning is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
ECS sells sensor sockets, if that is what you need:
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E39-528i-M52_2.8L/Braking/ABS/ES164858/
We try to keep the parts catalog up to date with parts like these to make finding the right part a little bit easier.

Also for reference that's BMW part number 61131392246 and below is a photo of the part from our data base.

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  #671  
Old 04-01-2013, 08:58 AM
BlackMagic BlackMagic is offline
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Brief update - In my last post I said with the old WSS installed the speedometer, odometer etc. began working. I also said the cruise did not work. Today I drove the car again and the cruise did indeed work, even with one defective, I believe, WSS in RR. Another couple things I noticed with the OBC were that the fuel range till empty was working again but the MPG was stuck as 5.9mpg. I wonder if BMW engineers ever imagined all the ramifications of these WSS not functioning! I should have new sensors by this weekend and I'll update.
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  #672  
Old 04-14-2013, 02:23 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
Brief update - In my last post I said with the old WSS installed the speedometer, odometer etc. began working. I also said the cruise did not work. Today I drove the car again and the cruise did indeed work, even with one defective, I believe, WSS in RR. Another couple things I noticed with the OBC were that the fuel range till empty was working again but the MPG was stuck as 5.9mpg. I wonder if BMW engineers ever imagined all the ramifications of these WSS not functioning! I should have new sensors by this weekend and I'll update.
This update came from BlackMagic in the other thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackMagic View Post
My final update for the ABS problems with the rear wheels. Based on the trial I did in replacing a questionable new PEX WSS with an original that I kept, I decided that the PEX needed to be replaced as they were not working. I contacted the seller and they agreed to take them back. They also sold the OEM VDO/Siemens brand sensors but at a cost of $80 more per sensor. I got the new VDO sensors, installed them and as soon as I drove about 10 feet, the warning lights were all off. So the problem was with the PEX sensors. They do not work in the rear of the '97 528i with Bosch 5.0 ABS. I wrote to PEX and they are interested in the situation and will work with the seller to resolve. I asked that they inform me of their findings and I'm sure they want to get these to work properly. I ran so many checks and rechecks and even bought a used 5.0 ABS module in case that was defective but it is fine so my original module stays in place. Seems the Bosch 5.0 modules are reasonably durable - at least mine is. However if anyone needs one I have a working one for sale. Everything in the car is now working as it should, all warnings lights out and the trans shifts well. I am still puzzled why my new front WSS made by PEX are working. I did ask that question of PEX and have no answer yet. Thanks to everyone on this board for all the valuable input.
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  #673  
Old 04-19-2013, 04:41 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, this DIY for cleaning the wheel speed sensors, on the E46, is useful to note for reference:
- Wheel speed sensor cleaning

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  #674  
Old 04-27-2013, 11:25 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record, there was a wonderfully detailed DIY repair of the 7th silver-colored wire over here today!
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  #675  
Old 04-28-2013, 07:48 AM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Hi Bluebee, that link isn't working.
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