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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #126  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:31 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I'm guilty of the "hours of analysis", I agree; but, if there's one thing I've learned from this thread that I can impart to the next hapless person who reads this is ...

1. If your Bimmer has abs, brake, and DSC lights lit ...
2. Run the 5-minute sensor-resistance test ...
3. And if all 4 are good, then send your ABS module out for rebuild!


See? No hours of analysis (if you already know this!).

Excellent!
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'99 528i ('98/12 build). 174,000km BY29428/Royalrot
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  #127  
Old 01-04-2010, 11:07 PM
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This is what happens when the ABS module is removed

For the record, after all 4 wheel sensors tested OK, with the ABS control module still on the BMW, these are the lights that were lit on my cluster:
1. ABS
2. BRAKE
3. DSC

After removing my ABS module, these are the lights that were lit:
1. ABS
2. BRAKE
3. DSC
4. SERVICE ENGINE SOON
And:
5. The fuel gauge was erratic, especially when near empty on hills
6. The speedometer stopped working
7. The odometer & trip meters froze in place

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  #128  
Old 01-05-2010, 10:37 AM
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For the record, after installing the ATE-rebuilt ABS module, all the warning lights went out except for "Service Engine Soon" which had first turned on when the ABS module was removed.

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  #129  
Old 01-05-2010, 11:47 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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SES will need a few "cycles" to go off, AFAIK. If it doesn't, you'll need to pull the codes, etc.
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  #130  
Old 01-05-2010, 03:33 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_n00b13 View Post
SES will need a few "cycles" to go off
I've driven about 15 miles with two starts so far and the SES check-engine light has remained solid. I'll let you know what happens in the near future.

For the record, to help someone following this thread, attached are the ATE packing instructions and shipping instructions. I learned, after the fact, from ATE's packing of my unit how I "should" have packed it on the way out. Notice how tightly, for example, ATE taped the solenoids so they wouldn't rattle to death in shipment.

On the other hand, notice ATE didn't do all that pretty of a job sealing my precious ABS module (it might not even be waterproof at this point).

Also notice ATE slapped a "rebuilt" sticker on the side ... which, given the crude resealing, is somewhat redundant.

However, what really matters is the quality of work on the innards. I have no reason to doubt ATE's work. I do know they double checked it on the bench as they were working on it during some of my numerous calls to Tennessee about it and they said it had failed some tests and therefore they were still replacing parts.


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  #131  
Old 01-06-2010, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_n00b13 View Post
SES will need a few "cycles" to go off
You were right! The Service Engine Soon SES check engine light turned off after the third or fourth start (about fifteen or twenty miles).

I think now, with all the information we put in this thread, we can write that DIY so the next person with ABS, DSC, and Brake lights on, will know exactly what to do!

If ABS, DSC, & Brake lights are on ...
a) Test resistance of the 4 wheel sensors from the engine bay;
b) If a wheel sensor test too high or low, then (retest &) replace it;
c) Else, send the ABS CPU to one of the 3 recommended rebuilders.

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  #132  
Old 01-06-2010, 10:45 AM
QuoteWarz Insurance QuoteWarz Insurance is offline
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Bluebee, you have done a great job documenting everything. This will really help out other owners who have this problem in the future which is what this great forum is all about.
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  #133  
Old 01-07-2010, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuoteWarz Insurance View Post
you have done a great job documenting everything
Oh no! Not everything. I wish someone ELSE learned what I learned today!

I failed smog because of the ABS (apparently)!

- Comprehensive Visual Inspection: PASS
- Emissions Test: PASS
- Functional Check: FAIL (P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction)

I think I missed what appears to be a penultimate step of the ABS system fix!

My Blue B failed for the "check engine light" but the mechanic says that doesn't mean the light is lit (mine isn't) ... it just means 'something' is stored in the computer that says something else has failed.

Did I miss a step in the ABS repair DIY?

I checked these threads (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) using the keywords for the code but not a lot came out of them other than this potentially bad warning:
"The speed sensor failure usually makes the ABS and ASC lights stay on.. When that is happening, the car believes the wheels are not spinning at the same speed and is using the tranny to compensate...."

I had tested all 4 wheel sensors. Do you think a transmission sensor might be the culprit?
I drove a week or two w/o the ABS control unit. Do you think the odometer reading is off somewhere?
I didn't clear the codes after putting the ABS module back (no lights are on the cluster anymore); do I just need to drive 100 miles?

Or what?

Any advice?

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  #134  
Old 01-07-2010, 10:14 PM
1val 1val is offline
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BlueBee....

On my BMW 528i (97) ABS module has a different view.The wire`s connector located vertically and I very confuse how to disconect it ????
Thanks!
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06506.jpg
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06503.jpg
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06483.jpg

Last edited by 1val; 01-09-2010 at 01:58 AM. Reason: add picture
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  #135  
Old 01-08-2010, 05:31 PM
camoore camoore is offline
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Bluebee...

I have been using this thread to troubleshoot the same issue you experienced
I am having one problem which you may seem to have some knowledge about.
While checking the Speed sensors via the ABS connector. I get zero results (OL) on all 4 sensors.
That just can't be the case. I followed your DIY to the letter with no voltage showings.
If you, or anyone else could shed some light on my error, i'd be grateful.

Thanks,

Clay
San Antonio, TX
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  #136  
Old 01-08-2010, 06:15 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camoore View Post
While checking the Speed sensors via the ABS connector. I get zero results (OL) on all 4 sensors.
You're right that it's unlikely all four sensors would test bad at the same time so we have to figure out what's wrong with your technique.

You didn't mention a whole 'lotta things ... for example ...
1. Did you put your DMM in the "diode" setting or in the "ohms" setting?
2. Did you check BOTH directions for each of the 4 sensors (8 tests)?
3. If you can, go find a diode to test to make sure your technique is good
4. Are you sure you got the test leads into those teeny tiny sensor holes?
etc.

As you noted, it's very unlikely more than one sensor is bad, so, it really must be your technique at the moment.
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  #137  
Old 01-08-2010, 06:20 PM
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in reponse:
1. yes, i was in diode mode.
2. yes, i checked both directions
3. no, did not test another diode
4. i think so. I put the leads (attached solid wire) in the larger, rectangular holes.

note: i even went and bought another DMM thinking mine was faulty.
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  #138  
Old 01-08-2010, 06:44 PM
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Since there must be "something" wrong, I have to guess you're not in the actual holes even though you think you are.

Maybe we need an unrelated test that we KNOW what the answer should be for, to add to the ABS test DIY sequence.

For example, if we knew where the POWER and GROUND holes are, we can test continuity between the frame and the ground hole. That would tell you whether or not your leads are not touching metal (which is one possibility).

Another unrelated test is to go grab a diode from somewhere (almost every scrap electronics board will have 'em ... they look like resistors w/o color stripes with only one asymmetrical black stripe around one end of the cylinder).

As for my standing problem:
- I think we have to add to the ABS DIY whatever it takes to "clear the codes" and another step to "get a full set of new codes"... sigh.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lild View Post
when you erase the one code, you erase the 8 test that the car does
I think we need to add these steps to the ABS DIY:

After you replace the ABS control module
0. Drive at least 50 miles (+ 3 starts) until the SES light turns off;
1. Drive at least 50 more miles (making sure of at least 3 more restarts);
2. Check the codes with an OBDII scanner (making sure all data is there).

My main question (since I haven't done it), is how do I know all the "data" is there?


Does anyone have advice on passing the California smog after replacing the ABS control unit?

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  #139  
Old 01-08-2010, 06:58 PM
camoore camoore is offline
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Thanks,

i'll take another stab at this beast in the morning.

Clay
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  #140  
Old 01-08-2010, 07:05 PM
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You could also test the speed sensors at the wheel, bare wire to bare wire, so at least you'd KNOW that you're making contact.
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  #141  
Old 01-08-2010, 07:16 PM
camoore camoore is offline
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This problem has had me stumped for a couple of weeks now. My obsessive/compulsive side
has kicked in full force to diagnos it and fix it. It seems there are a multitude of issues that
can cause this to occur. The first 2 indy shops i called said i was in "luck" because they could fix
it with a new module for $1000. By god if i am gonna let someone take my money if it's only a speed sensor,
brake light switch, DSC pressure unit. or a ABS rebuild for $125. It's just my nature. I have ordered a Carsoft
multiplexer and it should be here in a couple of days. I'll just wait till then and pull some codes. I'll keep ya posted
on my progress.


Anyway, superb writeup on the procedures! Kudos to all that helped in compiling the DIY.

Regards.

Clay

edit: when i cleaned my wheel speed sensors i disconnected the battery for a couple of hours. i noticed
that the SES light had gone out. You might try that for your current problem.

Clay
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  #142  
Old 01-08-2010, 08:40 PM
1val 1val is offline
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BlueBee...!!!


On my BMW 528i (1997) ABS unit wire`s connector point vertical, not as in most posts&pictures -horizontal. How can I disconnect it safely for test speed sensors.? Thanks
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06506.jpg
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06483.jpg
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06503.jpg

Last edited by 1val; 01-09-2010 at 02:05 AM.
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  #143  
Old 01-09-2010, 08:27 AM
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Your ABS looks almost the same as mine, only, as you noted, the connector is on the side. But, umm ... so what? It looks like, from your pictures, that it disconnects the same.

- To disconnect the harness wire, just pull up with a small flathead screwdriver on the U-shaped clip thing ...
- To remove the ABS module, just use a #20 Torx on the 4 bolts (mine has six, yours seems to have 4).

See annotation of your pics below.

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  #144  
Old 01-09-2010, 08:45 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Wrap-up to Blue Bees OUTSTANDING work! Long, sorry

1Val, I looked at the pictures that you sent me of your 1997 module and I hope that someone who has a vertically-mounted module will give you your definitive answer on how to find the clip that will release the big ABS module wiring harness. If I had to guess (and I am) look carefully at the pics on the side that is plastic and has slats like a ladder going all the way up the side of the module. That might very well be the horse-shoe or U shaped locking clip that holds the connector very tight to the module itself. Grasp is on BOTH sides with your hand and see if it will pull up (or down). BMW is famous for putting serrations or ladder rung-like shape to assist your hand grasping the whole clip. It will be probable 3/4" wide, will not come completely off the car, but will slide like 2 inches to allow the wiring connector to be pulled back. It might be the piece of plastic NEXT TO the part with the ladder rung horizontal slits. Maybe Blue Bee can post a picture of just the u clip on a later model E39 that will show you just how big the locking clip really is. You may also see enough to help you on real oem.com when you see just the module.

Blue Bee...been a while since I have jumped into this whole deal. I had truly bad right front speed sensor, but sent the module to ATE instead of checking the speed sensors first. Interesting that ATE told me that my module was definitely bad, but was re-buildable and I would be back in business soon. Remember, I find out later, but as my module is being re-built by ATE I have a 100% definitely bad RF sensor. The module comes back as repaired by ATE and I install it. Of course, I have all the same errors as I will find out about three days later when I do the diode test that my RF sensor is shot. I was in the camp that was so sure the module is "usually the culprit" that that is where I went first w/o even checking the senors with a diode capable VOM or even with software that may be questionable like Carsoft.

So, I have the same problem and ATE tells me I will need to "reset" the module to clear errors. This may be a good wishful-thinking piece of advice, but everything I know from personal experience and others says this is totally bull. If your system has all good parts
(4 good speed sensors, your module is good and coded for your vehicle) absent any of the goofy errors and more rare like ABS pressure sensor bad, wiring issue such as a short or open, etc.) your errors will clear automatically the first time you start your car and drive. An SES light as Blue Bee had is possible, but I never had an SES at any time during module replacement and sensor replacement. Obviously it can happen.

Ok, so back to my issue. Newly re-built ATE module and still have same errors....hum, ATE is telling me my module definitely was bad and is now fine. Do I have two problems at same time? Did ATE lie and my module was received just fine from the beginning? What's going on? I test the four speed sensors at the Module plug. This also verifies your wiring between sensor and module. LR- Open one way, 1.2 the other way. RR- tests same. LF tests same. RF - OOPS, open in both directions! Ordered a new one after taking sensor out, cleaning sensor, cleaning senor connector in little box near wheel full of dirt and all types of crap, etc. Re-test RF sensor. Still open both ways. Buy a new one from Autohauz, get, install, all errors clear by themselves instantly and stay that way......for 4 months!

4 months later, get three lights of doom again. Module is under lifetime warranty from ATE so no money drain there. Hook up Carsoft and now LR sensor is bad. Order, install, problem still there. What is missing? I never did the diode test on that sensor believing the Carsoft software. Put the old sensor back after diode testing and both new sensor and old test fine. So, now I have a rear sensor that is new that I apparently don't need. Check again with Carsoft attempting to clear errors and now RR shows bad! Now, a few days earlier it said LR was bad. WTF??! Put the new sensor on RR as I now have a need and error stays. Crap. I send module back to ATE and tell them I believe module is highly suspect. They said it tested good as received, but owner himself said he would open and add even more redundant point to point wiring. Module comes back. Problem still same.

I send module this time to BBa. Paid $115 buck on Ebay for BBa rebuild. I openly tell BBa that module has been rebuilt and is supposedly good. I get call 3 days later. Module is bad, has failed 2 of 3 tests, and once opened deemed to be such a cluster of new wires and work that it is not rebuildable and not even an acceptable core!. I call to learn more and the tech locates my module and puts it on the BBA test bench while i hold on phone. Modules sent to BBa essentially must run a motor properly (test#1) all error lights must be off, and bi-directional communication must be ok. Mine has error codes as received when ATE said it was fine and mine will not communicate or run their test motor so technically it failed 3 for 3, but they said if they fixed the communication that the motor run function test could become "ok" so they called it 2 out of 3 to be safe. They returned to me and kept no money. Not a dime. Paid shipping both ways.

Bought a new module from Jared at EAC. About $550 and shipping. Installed but did not plug in as directed as a new module needs to be coded to your car. Took to my indy in Chicago who I do a lot of business with. They plug in, code, and take no money sending me on my way. System now once again 100%. I force a fifty on my Indy for lunch. What did I learn. This time no sensors bad despite Carsoft. Diode test would have said all sensors good. I trust the diode test better than any software unless it is really good.
What about ATE? They swear module came to them good and left still good. BBa says module toast. ATE says all competitors will trash each other when given the chance. New module cures the problem.

My takeaway- your mileage may vary. ATE was a company I recommended. They can fix modules. However, I had issues with timely refund as they said it takes a month to process a refund as they first file for a seller's refund for the Ebay transaction. Think about it...why? What did Ebay do wrong? The buyer paid promptly. Their service failed. Why hold a customers money for 30 days? I had to get a refund for another forum member by calling the owner of ATE. I have heard of ATE wanting the same module as many as 4 times back and forth before giving in and issuing a belated refund. BBa refunded same day I said to send module back even though it was bad. I figured they would refund less shipping and a bench test fee....they kept not one penny and refund came in one day.

Talk-a-ways... ALWAYS test sensors if you can. It is difficult because of the small holes, tight quarters if you test sensor alone, but make every attempt to test sensors yourself or at least move sensors and see if problem changes at all. Rears can be swapped and fronts inter-change. Can't move front to rear or vice-verse. If problem changes (say your speedo worked before and now you still have codes but speedo is also out there is a damn good chance you have a bad rear sensor. By one and try it on both sides until you get the bad one out of the mix. Same with fronts. If you believe sensors are all good then you have a decision. Re-build or new. I would try rebuild with BBA or Module masters if you can afford. using MM you are now approaching cost of a new module. I liked BBA they even gave me names of people who could re-code new module for me. Never tried to sell me another rebuilt. You have some other possible problems that are less common. The YAW sensor can be bad. The pressure in the system can be low or the pressure sensor bad. There are other issues. Bad connections, etc. but heat and water are worst offenders. I fabricated a heat shield for my new module. Later BMWs relocated away from exhaust manifolds. Lots of solid info in Blue Bees posts as well as her time, pictures, work, etc. Blue Bee will always have a legacy here on the ABS system. Use it.
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  #145  
Old 01-09-2010, 10:16 AM
1val 1val is offline
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Thanks a lot!!!
I`ll try !
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  #146  
Old 01-09-2010, 12:01 PM
1val 1val is offline
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BlueBee.......540 iman...For everybody...!!!!


I did,.... but connector looks totally different.I measured in diode mode - mostly 1,043 v, 1,063 v(reverse)...Big headache..Any idea ?????
Thanks!!!
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06507.jpg
http://i837.photobucket.com/albums/z...e/DSC06508.jpg
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  #147  
Old 01-09-2010, 06:44 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1val View Post
connector looks totally different. I measured in diode mode - mostly 1,043 v, 1,063 v(reverse)...
Oh my. 540iman's ABS saga with Carsoft, ATE, and BBAReman is quite enlightening. Coupled with the fact my ABS failed the California emissions for no good reason (AFAIK), seems to complete the picture.

It looks like NOBODY's diagnostic software is all that reliable!

Anyway, 540iman's ABS saga is a mighty good American short story (well, short for us anyway) that everyone can benefit from. Thanks for sharing that. I didn't realize BBAReman could be gotten for about the same as ATE, for example. I thought BBA was MUCH more expensive than ATE (when I checked).

As for ATE saying the module is bad, one thing to remember is they told me over the phone that they replace stuff that "will" go bad. They said Bosch used substandard components. So, even a "good" ABS would be worked on by them. That's not the same as testing bad; but it's a datapoint on what they do once they open it up. (BTW, did they do as bad a job re-sealing your ABS as mine?).

As for the funky ABS connector of 1val, I am at a loss as I only know what the guys here teach me. So, hopefully someone else can advise you on which pins to test. You might have to test your sensors at the wheel if you don't get someone to point out which pins to test in both directions.

I've included your two pics below (after shrinking them) just in case the site you used goes offline, future users of this thread will have the same data we do.

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  #148  
Old 01-12-2010, 06:48 AM
davewmarkert davewmarkert is offline
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interesting... I will be tackling this on my 97 528 very soon. It only has the two lights of doom... Brake light is currently off.....
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Interior Lighting Conversion DIY
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  #149  
Old 01-25-2010, 11:26 AM
Rgol Rgol is offline
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Location: NashVegas TN
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 341
Mein Auto: '99 528i Sport 5-spd
That is what I did...

This is what I did. I had my mechanic pull my ABS module. It was sent to BBA Remanufacturing (http://www.bba-reman.com/us/index.aspx) and they fixed it in one day. It cost me $320 and $50 to ship it FedEx and back. I drove a week with no ABS and all the crazy stuff. I just made sure I kept my tank full. We plugged it back in today and no lights are on. It is all good!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I sporadically run into anecdotal evidence that the fuel gauge is tied to the ABS unit operation but I can't, for the life of me, understand why that would be.

When I look at the wiring diagrams for the Bosch 5.7 ABS system, I see no connection to the fuel gauge.

And, I don't see why wheel, yaw, steering angle, or brake-pedal and brake-pressure sensors that are tied to the ABS would have anything to do with the fuel gauge.

Yet, there is ample sporadic evidence that the fuel gauge sometimes goes haywire when the ABS system does.

How can that be?

What possible connection is there between the ABS and the fuel gauge?

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  #150  
Old 01-26-2010, 07:38 PM
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PharoE39 PharoE39 is offline
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Location: Tulsa OK (Pomona CA)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 499
Mein Auto: 1997 528i,2005 530i
i was able to fix my asc/abs light problem. the problem for me was that my sensors wires were broken and not able to make the connection. just recieved the the two wheel sensors earlier this evening and replaced them. both lights are off and my car is driving normal again.

my symptoms were abit different than what everyone was stating, but i feel they should be documented here since it is all part of the same system.

my symptoms:
*abs light on
*asc traction light on
*car staying in very high rpms
*car would occasionally fall into transmission failsafe mode
*trans failsafe mode would clear, the CEL would appear
*CEL would go away after a few drives

code drawn from OBD: gear 3 incorrect
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