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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #151  
Old 01-26-2010, 09:11 PM
camoore camoore is offline
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Pharoe.

I am having the EXACT same symptoms. Which sensors did you change. How did you determine which were bad?
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  #152  
Old 01-26-2010, 09:51 PM
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PharoE39 PharoE39 is offline
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i changed the two front. one was torn the other near torn on the wires. you need to lift your car and examine the wires if they are exposed, cracking, or in my case torn you should consider replacing them.

determine first if any front or rear are damaged. check all four before ordering that way you don't have to order more if needed.

i bought mine from EAC got them shipped next day. you have a 540ia, so the sensors are different (and cheaper in price) here are the links to the one for a 540.

>>540iA Front sensor<< P/N 34526756375

>>540iA Rear sensor<< P/N 34526756376
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  #153  
Old 01-31-2010, 09:47 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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This post made me realize that the automatic door locks are also related to the ABS control module.

I'm remembering backward, but, when my ABS control module was off the car, my automatic door locks thankfully stopped automatically locking on me (as if I lived in the ghetto).

Then, inexplicably (to me), that dreaded automatic door locking returned. Well, it turns out it was probably directly related to my ABS being out.

So, the list of items related to the ABS off the car seem to be growing:
- automatic door locks stop locking (thank God)
- erratic fuel gauge (especially when near empty)
- erratic transmission shifting (reputedly ... I didn't experience this)
- no odometer reading (stops moving)
- no tripmeter reading (stops moving)
- no speedometer reading (stays at zero mph)
- Brake/DSC/ABS trifecta lights plus SES light lit (on the cluster)

Anything else?

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  #154  
Old 02-01-2010, 07:34 AM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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Depending on which speed sensor is out or it can be the module itself, but the section of the module that accepts that sensor's input. if the car's brain in any way lacks knowledge of how fast it is going, then anything related to any particular speed will be affected. Your doors locks at what.....7MPH..10MPH...whatever. Without knowing precisely what seed that car is traveling, any speed-related system can fail (speedo, cruise, auto door lock, ABS, DSC, speed sensitive radio volume control, mileage calc, per gallon, miles to empty, NAV (where the hell am I???", all of these are speed related. Without a speed reference, your NAV has no idea how far you have travelled whereas so advanced NAV systems don't care. If it is speed-related in ANY manner it CAN be affected or not depending on which portion of your DSC/ABS/ Speed sensor/module may be affected.

I have only touched on a very, very few and if you have them or don't you should not let that be the sole determining factor whether you have a failure withing this system. Unfortunately, it can be said that there are a ton of different ways the system can manifest its failure.
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  #155  
Old 02-02-2010, 10:38 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iman View Post
if the car's brain in any way lacks knowledge of how fast it is going, then anything related to any particular speed will be affected.
In order to learn more about what is affected when the ABS module is removed, I found this nice BMW 740iL ABS repair DIY from Magnum.

He lists the following failures immediately after removing his ABS module:
  • No Speedometer
  • SES with code P0500 <=== he got same bogus error that caused me to erroneously fail my California SMOG inspection!
  • No ABS
  • No DSC [Traction Control]
  • No GPS for the Navi
  • No Mileage was Calculated
  • No Trip Mileage Meter
  • No Fuel Consumption 1 or 2
  • No Auto Lock
  • No Speed Sensitive Radio
  • No Cruise Control
  • The Temp Gauge Read 31* - 33* [even though it was much warmer than that]
  • The Brakes Were Extremely Mushy
  • The Steering Was Really “Loose"
Interestingly, he is the only other person I can find who also automatically triggered a P0500 speed sensor malfunction simply by removing the ABS control module from his BMW.

In my case, that code did not clear when the ABS was returned to the car, hence I failed the bi-annual California smog inspection. Even when the codes were cleared, the BMW still immediately failed California smog inspection simply due to the rule that all cars with cleared codes automatically get a technical failure on that basis alone. Sigh.

I do not know if the P0500 code would have cleared itself as I can't find that information in any ABS DIY to date; but this potential problem is worth noting for future users to benefit (especially if they live in a sunshine state).

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  #156  
Old 02-06-2010, 02:15 PM
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PharoE39 PharoE39 is offline
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is there a diy on removing the abs module? i tried removing the torx screws and another screw towards the bottom. i wasn't able to remove the module after taking off the screws. is there something else that i may be missing? my car was running fine after replacing the front two sensors. a few days later i was driving and the car just went limp.
high revving but no power to the wheels.
it crawls to 20mph and sometimes doesn't drive at all.
reverse works fine.
CEL light on code P0733 was read.
no abs or asc lights on anymore. but i think the abs module still may be the cause.
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  #157  
Old 02-06-2010, 02:24 PM
jburnham jburnham is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharoE39 View Post
is there a diy on removing the abs module? i tried removing the torx screws and another screw towards the bottom. i wasn't able to remove the module after taking off the screws. is there something else that i may be missing? my car was running fine after replacing the front two sensors. a few days later i was driving and the car just went limp.
high revving but no power to the wheels.
it crawls to 20mph and sometimes doesn't drive at all.
reverse works fine.
CEL light on code P0733 was read.
no abs or asc lights on anymore. but i think the abs module still may be the cause.

There are SIX torx screws (and obviously you need to disconnect the wire to the ABS module).
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  #158  
Old 02-06-2010, 02:34 PM
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PharoE39 PharoE39 is offline
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yeah i removed the torx screws... (97 528 appears to only have 4) and a bolt near the bottom. i also removed the wire harness. i am just afraid to put too much pressure and break something.
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  #159  
Old 02-06-2010, 10:19 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharoE39 View Post
i removed the torx screws... (97 528 appears to only have 4) and a bolt near the bottom.
I searched for a picture of the 97 528 ABS module and surprisingly, in google anyway, I had trouble finding a good picture of the bolts.

Interestingly, this thread came up in a lot of hits. Also Volvo's came up.
Does your ABS control module look like this?

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  #160  
Old 02-06-2010, 10:39 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the ABS thread record, while I was searching for a 98 528i ABS removal instruction DIY, I found a NEW interesting way to troubleshoot ABS issues.

Look at this novel way to debug ABS issues:
1. Go to an office superstore and buy a can of compressed air
2. Run the BMW until the ABS/BRAKE/DSC trilogy comes on
3. Spray the air UPSIDE DOWN onto the ABS module so that liquid oxygen makes the unit cold (cold cold not even room temperature freezing cold)
4. If the ABS trilogy goes out, the problem was the ABS controller.

Also, everyone seems to have an additional SES light once the ABS module is removed. This light does not go out immediately upon replacing the ABS (in fact, even when the SES light goes out, there is still a stored P0500 invalid speed sensor code).

However, this post showed a novel way to make the SES engine light go out immediately.
1. If, after replacing your ABS, your SES light is on
2. Unhook the negative battery cable
3. When you reconnect, the SES light is now off

But, back to your problem of unfastening the ABS, I noticed in the www.realoem.com site for a 1998 USA 528i sedan automatic, there is a section called "HYDRO UNIT DSC/CONTROL UNIT/FASTENING" which might help.

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  #161  
Old 02-06-2010, 10:49 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharoE39 View Post
i am just afraid to put too much pressure and break something.
I think you need to just pull harder. But I realize that's easy for me to say.

Looking closer at the 1998 BMW 528i realoem diagram, it seems like you have 4 torx bolts plus one bottom bolt (as you already described).

What's DIFFERENT from my 2002 ABS (besides the 6 torx bolts) is that your hydraulic unit "appears" (to me) to be combined with the ABS module.

In my 2002 situation, the two units are connected but separate. It may be that your ABS module is integral with the hydro unit (someone with a 1998 can give you better advice than I can seem to find for you though).

If all else fails, call the phone numbers for ATE that I listed prior or BBA Reman or ModuleMasters and ask them how to remove it (they'll certainly know).

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  #162  
Old 02-15-2010, 10:07 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Well, I'm gonna go back tomorrow and get my BMW smog'd again.

I didn't change anything. I'm sure the smog failure was a bogus California technicality (any good DIY needs to tell users don't smog your car directly after an ABS rebuild ... you need to clear the bogus P0500 code that happens when you remove the ABS module and then you must drive for at least a tank full of gas before taking the smog test it seems, in order to rebuild the 8 databanks back up).

1 Misfire
2 Fuel
3 Comp
4 Catlyst
5 Evap
6 Sec Air
7 02 Snsr
8 02 Htr

Here are California emission test results on 87 AKI Costco fuel:
15mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_C02=15.0%; Measured_02=0%
25mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_C02=15.0%; Measured_02=0%

15mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_Hydrocarbons=0PPM (MaxLimit=52, Avg=4)
25mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_Hydrocarbons=0PPM (MaxLimit=36, Avg=4)

15mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_CarbonMonoxide=0.0% (Max=.49, Avg=.01)
25mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_CarbonMonoxide=0.0% (Max=.46, Avg=.01)

15mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_NitrousOxides=21PPM (Max=424, Avg=16)
25mph(2400rpm) --> Measured_NitrousOxides=25PPM (Max=711, Avg=18)

I'm almost empty so I'll fill up on 91 AKI Costco just for the fun of an experiment to see if that changes the numbers any on the emissions side of the equation.

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  #163  
Old 02-16-2010, 03:23 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Well, my 535i with the rebuilt ABS passed inspection!

That's proof both the invisible MIL and the P0500 failures were bogus and solely due to the temporal proximity of me removing and replacing the ABS control module.

However, every time I learn something, I end up with new enigmas!

The first time, I had driven the BMW only about 50 miles between replacing the ABS control module and getting the car smogged ... obviously that's not enough to clear the two bogus errors (invisible MIL & bogus P0500) ... so in the DIY, we should be able to tell others what to do properly if we can figure out what happened.

After failing the first smog check for the bogus P0500 code, I had all the codes cleared - but the mechanic told me it still will fail California smog because you can't pass if your codes are recently cleared or if your SES/MIL was recently reset. At the very least, you must drive a certain number of miles for the 8 codes to build themselves back up again.

So, I drove for a tank or two of gas (about two weeks transpired) and, retested today with the same mechanic w/o changing anything other than the grade of gas (for test purposes I did the smog on both 87 AKI and 91 AKI to see the results which were surprising but OT for this thread).

At my request, the same mechanic checked the codes first and said "oh oh ... it's gonna fail again" because there is STILL a "MIL" reported on his computer (it says MIL on his computer but w/o any codes visible). He asked if I wanted him to fix it or if he should proceed, cautioning me once he starts with the test, he has to finish it (and charge me full price). I told him "nothing was wrong with the car in the first place ... please proceed".

Well, after ten anxious minutes, it passed, even with the "invisible MIL" still indicated on his computer!

What happened? How do we prevent this for others in the future?

This is my hypothesis of what happened (please help answer questions).

SES/MIL:
- A visible SES lights when you remove your ABS module;
- When you replace the module, the visible SES stays lit;
- After (3?) ignition starts (and/or? 50?) miles; the visible SES goes out;
- But the "invisible" MIL remains (at least mine remained);
- This "invisible MIL" does NOT show up on the OBDII tester!
- This "invisible MIL" shows up on the California smog test as an undefined MIL with no codes associated with it;
- QUESTION: What is the proper way to clear the visible SES and the invisible MIL?

P0500/VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR MALFUNCTION:
- A bogus P0500 code occurs when you remove your ABS module;
- When you replace the module, the bogus P0500 remains;
- This bogus P0500 shows up on the OBDII tester;
- You can clear this bogus P0500 with the OBDII tester;
- QUESTION: Can you clear the bogus P0500 just by driving a certain number of miles?


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  #164  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:31 AM
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For comparison purposes, I opened up a separate thread on emissions comparison amongst us.
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  #165  
Old 02-18-2010, 06:51 AM
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Est1974 Est1974 is offline
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replace the ignition module. Then start trouble shooting.
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  #166  
Old 03-18-2010, 07:05 AM
Z4NL Z4NL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Q: Ok. Ok. Last question ... Do you think the ABS failure is a BMW design problem?
A: No. They say they get a LOT of Bosch 5.3 ABS modules from Audi, Saab, and VW in addition to Bosch 5.7 ABS modules from BMW.
They all fail. The problem, they say, is that Bosch uses cheap components.
They replace the cheap components with better quality components; they say that's why they give a lifetime guarantee.

They say they even replace components that test out as good but which have a history of failing.
Ik think this is BS. The components on the board are not the issue.

The ABS modules fail because of cracks in de soldered joints. This is due to years of heating up / vibrations / cooling down of the unit. I have basic electronics skills and resoldered all the joints / bridge wires of the unit under a microscope. Problem solved. Total repair time about an hour. Cost: about 1 cent worth of solder.
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  #167  
Old 03-25-2010, 11:48 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4NL View Post
ABS modules fail because of cracks in soldered joints. ... I ... resoldered ... under a microscope. Problem solved.
I didn't have the guts to open my ABS control module but now that I know that the $150 rebuilders will still take an opened ABS control module, I might recommend others attempt the repair themselves first.

BTW, I don't know if we ever saved the original Chris Parente ABS article from 2008 ... just in case it disappears if it's not yet in this thread, here it is.

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  #168  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:04 AM
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Thanks, Bluebee! Appreciate the plug, and unless Wordpress collapses the post won't go anywhere, so here's the link so my traffic stays up!

http://cparente.wordpress.com/2008/1...o-abs-problem/
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  #169  
Old 03-30-2010, 05:38 AM
e39vinay e39vinay is offline
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Hi Guys...I really need some help here...well...my problem is that I don't have speedmeter and as strange as this might appear i don't have any ABS light on (unless i unplug the ABS module or wheel Sensor). OK...i have a BOSCH ABS 5.0 module...unlike most of you who have a 5.7 version. Made test on my clusters and everything work (all wipers work; Test 02)....anyway...now the strange thing is that....though my ABS module does not send any signal to tell me that any of my speed sensors are bad (no lights on cluster, unless i disconnect the ABS Wheel sensor; meaning they are properly connected)...but when i tried to test the sensor....(diaode test...all i can read is 1)...nothing else....I AM SURELY connecting the wires correctly...no results...i really want to have my speedometer and MPG wiper working again...so please guys help me. For those who want to understand the BOSCH ABS 5.0 Module here's some info:

The Bosch 5.0 uses a solenoid module which mounts to the hydraulic unit. The pump is hardwired to the module without a connector. The actual controller is located under the dash or beneath the rear seat.

THE MODULE:

Pin assignments at connector X1171

Pin Type Description / Signal type Connection /
Measuring notes
1 E Voltage supply, terminal 15 Terminal 30 voltage supply Fuse F17 DDE Fuse F31 DME
2 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Left front inlet valve
Relay control
3 A Relay control Valve and motor relay
4 Not used
5 Not used
6 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Right rear inlet valve
Relay control
7 A Relay control Motor relay
8 Not used
9 A Engine speed signal Left front wheel speed splice
10 A Engine speed sensor voltage supply Left front speed sensor
11 E Engine speed sensor signal Right rear speed sensor
12 A Engine speed sensor voltage supply Left rear speed sensor
13 E Engine speed sensor signal Left rear speed sensor
14 A Engine speed sensor voltage supply Right front speed sensor
15 E Engine speed sensor signal Right front speed sensor
16 Not used
17 Not used
18 A Increase idle speed signal Engine control module (DME)
19 E B+ power/feedback Engine control module relay, terminal 87
20 Not used
21 Not used
22 Not used
23 A Voltage control Auxiliary throttle position motor (ADS) DME
24 E Generator signal Generator control splice DME
25 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Left rear outlet valve
26 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Intake valve
27 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Right front outlet valve
28 M Ground Ground point
29 M Ground Ground point
30 A ABS malfunction indicator lamp Instrument cluster
31 A ASC malfunction indicator lamp Instrument cluster
32 Not used
33 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Left front outlet valve
34 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Right rear outlet valve
35 E Engine speed sensor signal Left front speed sensor
36 A RH rear engine speed signal Transmission control module (AGS)
37 A Relay control Valve relay
38 A Engine speed sensor voltage supply Right rear speed sensor
39 M Component ground ASC throttle position sensor DME
40 A LH rear engine speed signal Left rear wheel speed splice
41 Not used
42 A RH front engine speed sensor Right front wheel speed splice
43 A Throttle position sensor voltage supply ASC throttle position sensor DME
44 E ASC passive sensor signal ASC/DSC switch
45 Not used
46 E/A Data link TXD Data link connector
47 Not used
48 E Brake signal Brake light switch
49 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Changeover valve
50 Not used
51 E Throttle actuator terminal 30 voltage supply Fuse F8 DME
52 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Left rear inlet valve
53 A Ground control Auxiliary throttle position motor (ADS) DME
54 A Valve control Hydraulic unit, Right front inlet valve
55 M Ground Ground point
56 Not used
57 Not used
58 Not used
59 Not used
60 Not used
61 E/A CAN-bus high Engine control module (DME)
62 Not used
63 E/A CAN-bus low Engine control module (DME)
64 Not used
65 Not used
66 Not used
67 E Throttle position sensor slider voltage ASC throttle position sensor DME
68 Not used
69 Not used
70 Not used
71 Not used
72 Not used
73 Not used
74 Not used
75 Not used
76 E Park brake signal Park brake switch
77 A Ignition timing signal Engine control module (DME)
78 Not used
79 Not used
80 Not used
81 A Ignition fade-out signal Engine control module (DME) DME
82 Not used
83 A Transmission influencing signal Transmission control module (AGS) DME
84 A Power Hydraulic unit DDE Hydraulic unit
85 Not used
86 Not used
87 Not used
88 E DKI signal Engine control module (DME) DME


Please help guys...btw....at Cluster the Speed Sensor wire is the brown/red wire (White connector 26 pins) found at pin 17.

Can anyone here provide some help??
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  #170  
Old 04-03-2010, 12:27 PM
jpheather jpheather is offline
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I have a 2001 525i wagon. I get the ABS/Brake/DSC lights on after the car warms up. Sent the module to Modulemasters, and they said it tested fine but showed a problem with the left rear sensor. Replaced both rear sensors (wire casing badly cracked) and still have the same problem.

Did the diode test and the left rear sensor reads OL with pin 13 positive/pin 29 negative, and also OL reversed. Other three sensors read about 1.9/OL for the pairs. (I checked multiple times and got the same readings for all 4 sensors, suggesting that multimeter operator error is not likely).

No problems with speedometer or cruise control when the lights are on.

Are there any likely causes of failure between the module and the rear left sensor that I should check out? Or any procedure for checking that?

Thanks,

Julie
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  #171  
Old 04-19-2010, 11:03 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpheather View Post
Modulemasters said it tested fine but showed a problem with the left rear sensor.
For cross reference, experienced users are posting their results with ATE, MM, and BBA in this thread...
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  #172  
Old 04-28-2010, 04:04 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
experienced users are posting their results with ATE, MM, and BBA
Unless there is some argument, if you're reading this thread to resolve your ABS/BRAKE/DSC trifecta, we (the royal we) recommend, in this order:

1. BBA
2. MM
3. ATE

Make your decision based on that, plus whatever other factors (e.g., price, warranty, etc.).

In addition, this thread has a nice short ABS front sensor replacement DIY.

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  #173  
Old 04-29-2010, 01:07 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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For the record ...

We're getting somewhere on the ABS autopsy and thin gold wire repair over in this related cross-linked thread titled "removing "snot-like" goo from ABS circuit board- Bluebee pls. read!"

Here's a quick summary of what I found doing some *****wire research:

http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?t=171525
- Used a stereo microscope to repair a Bosch 5.3 ABS control module
- Said the wires supplying power were broken
- Repaired two broken aluminum wirebonds with a 30 gauge copper jumper.
- One danger is the wirebond pad came off the board.
- "Just to make working on the board miserable, Bosch added a heavy gooey gel
- He says the factory uses ultrasonic bonding.
- The point of failure for these Al wires is on the gold contact side.
- Best to solder copper to the aluminum w/o removing the aluminum wires
- See picture at http://passat-b5.ru/remont/abs/11.jpg
- Recommends epoxy from Mouser Electronics P/N 590-8331-14G $23.95
- Russians recommend a special aluminum flux for soldering to copper.
- Recommend as a failsafe http://www.cheap-abs.com/ ($100 for Bosch 5.3)

http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38384
- These guys also break the thin gold wires and they rue the gel
- They have a link to the Russian site, but, it's in Russian.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=179828

- These guys hacksawed off the cover of the ABS (they did not dremel it off)
- This is the second guy who said the power wires were the ones that broke
- Also used a microscope to see what he was doing
- They suggest http://www.lbak.dk/Audi/Repair_ABS_unit_passat.pdf
- They glued and nail varnished the results
- They say there's not much else on the board that can be fixed but wires
- They test it on the car, and then seal it up when it's working

http://www.automotiveforums.com/t577...ment_cost.html
- These guys used a knife and hammer to open the cover ...
- Recommend Silver Epoxy (silverglue, silverpaint, conductive paint)
- Also use chemically neutral glue or resin to stabilise the repaired spot.
- Warn not to use a soldering iron due to heat on the controller chip
- Also warn about bond pads coming up due to solder heat so don't use solder
- Remove as little gel as possible due to the propensity to break gold wires
- They test it on the car, and then seal it up when it's working
- Cover off: http://www.antiekeradio.nl/deeplinki...i/abs/ABS1.jpg
- Broken wire: http://www.antiekeradio.nl/deeplinki...i/abs/ABS2.jpg
- Silver epoxy: http://www.antiekeradio.nl/deeplinki...i/abs/ABS3.jpg
- Sealing ABS http://www.antiekeradio.nl/deeplinki...i/abs/ABS4.jpg
- User N3IDT http://forums.qrz.com/member.php?u=252575
- http://forums.qrz.com/showthread.php?t=171525
- Some russian guy running passat-b5.ru; http://passat-b5.ru/remont/abs/
- The two processor units are fed the same input, and process it in the
same way. The results are compared and only used if they match.
(i.e. if you break one or two wirebonds, the module throws an
'internal error' code and stops working)
- All valves are controlled by separate processors that can determine if
the valves are working or not (i.e., break a wire to the solenoid and
it throws an error and stops working)

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=15052859
- This guy also talks about the terrible goo
- He references http://forums.audiworld.com/a6/msgs/424238.phtml
- He used 0,1 mm wire and sealed with black silicone
- He also found the faulty wire to be the power wire
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  #174  
Old 04-29-2010, 01:21 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Here are some ABS autopsy *****wire repair pics from our Russian Bosch ABS repair friends posted to http://passat-b5.ru/remont/abs/ and reposted here in case that site goes down ...

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  #175  
Old 04-29-2010, 06:32 PM
RobV15 RobV15 is offline
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DEEP BREATH! WOW, great thread.
Bluebee, has you problem been resolved? Im currently trouble shooting the same problem as we speak. Hopefully I manage to get it fixed.

Great DIY by the way!
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