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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 08-16-2015, 10:33 AM
gnmiller gnmiller is offline
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Location: Medina, OH
 
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Mein Auto: 1997 bmw z3
bmw z3 (1997) electric window problem

My drivers side electric window does not stop at the appropriate position. It wants to travel too high and binds and make a terrible noise. I've adjusted the screw adjuster, but it continues to malfunction.
What specifically stops the motor from allowing the window to travel too high? Is it resistance or sensors that stop the motor?
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2015, 12:58 PM
danzy3 danzy3 is offline
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Location: florida
 
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Mein Auto: z3
Yeah on these cars the window regulator screw just hits like a small metal tab thats at the top of the door to stop it. Your case sounds similar to Mind. But mine regular would push so hard when going up the screw would jump off the tab and let the window go higher then it should just as you mentioned. Check if the tab is no bent already. Sometime that is the problem. My solution was that I screwed on something to the top of the adjustment screw so it would catch the bent tab. Also u have to initialize your window. I did it on mine and its basically lets the window motor know how far up and down to go. Its just a series of steps you do with holding down the window button and making the window go up and down. Just google "e36 window initialization"
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  #3  
Old 08-16-2015, 01:26 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is online now
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 5MT
.

Last edited by vintage42; 08-16-2015 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Duplicate
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  #4  
Old 08-16-2015, 01:32 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is online now
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I don't know why it won't stop and makes the noise, or if resetting is the cure. I think you need to go into the door and watch what is happening. And resetting with a bind can cause a problem per the second post below.

"The reset goes like this. Roll the window down. Shut the door. With the key in driver door, lock the car and hold in lock position. The auto up will activate and reset all the windows."
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1366261

"Another thing to try (long shot) is to reset the control module. Close the doors and using the key in the door lock hold the key in the unlock position for ten seconds to activate the auto roll down function. If the window goes all the way down maybe the module was confused. Caution: if a bind stops the window before it goes all the way down this will teach the module a new and incorrect full down position. To clear that you need to disconnect the battery with the doors closed to reset the module (make sure you have your radio code handy because that will reset too.)"
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=15
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Reset - Initialize Window.pdf (26.2 KB, 13 views)

Last edited by vintage42; 08-16-2015 at 01:34 PM.
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  #5  
Old 08-16-2015, 01:44 PM
danzy3 danzy3 is offline
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Yeah I replaced my entire door and gutted everything out to fix the problem. Once u take everything out and watch all the moving parts you will have a better understanding. I ended up replacing the whole regulator
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  #6  
Old 08-19-2015, 03:42 AM
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alcofribas alcofribas is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 2.5i
Driver-side window problem

My 2001 Z3 had just about the same window problem, with its going up higher than it should upon being raised, and with a rather terrifying "clunk" upon being encouraged back down. In addition, I was experiencing other typical symptoms, i.e.,

(1) the window would often go up to my selected position, then drop about 0.75";
(2) the window would go up or down very slowly, if at all;
(3) on a rainy day, it wouldn't go down at all without help from a hand.

At my last maintenance appointment I mentioned the problem to my service advisor. The mechanic removed the door card and discovered the problem(s):

(1) the metal stud installed in the fixed bracket inside the door had come loose and was wobbling in place;
(2) the window lift mechanism is supposed to rotate around that stud, but the hole for the stud had become enlarged and finally the surround cracked at a stress point.

Fix:
The stud was welded back into place;
A new window lift mechanism was installed.

Works like a charm. Note that it took 14 years of use/abuse to cause the problem!

BTW: I had a similar problem with a 2001 Miata I had just purchased back in 2010 - the window would only go down a quarter of its normal travel. Took the car to the local dealer who replaced the dysfunctional window mechanism for $400, parts and labor. The 2015 fix for the Z3 at BMW was $550, which I found rather reasonable, since this went considerably beyond a DIY project.
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  #7  
Old 08-19-2015, 05:49 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alcofribas View Post
...
(1) the metal stud installed in the fixed bracket inside the door had come loose and was wobbling in place;
(2) the window lift mechanism is supposed to rotate around that stud, but the hole for the stud had become enlarged and finally the surround cracked at a stress point.
Fix:
The stud was welded back into place;
A new window lift mechanism was installed... it took 14 years of use/abuse to cause the problem!...
Friction rather than time was a more likely cause. Dry sliders put strain on the stud and cracked its mount.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...echanism-broke
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  #8  
Old 08-19-2015, 06:30 AM
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alcofribas alcofribas is offline
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Vintage --
Thanks for the link. Interesting discussion. You're most likely right about friction being a major culprit. Silicone helpful here?
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  #9  
Old 08-19-2015, 10:02 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is online now
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Mein Auto: 1997 BMW Z3 1.9 5MT
If the sliders are not too worn, most put lithium grease in the tracks. If worn, they should be replaced.
Slider replacement with glass in:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...placement-DONE!
Video of slider replacement with glass out:


Last edited by vintage42; 08-19-2015 at 10:04 AM.
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