**Z3** How-tos (post links here)

The correct tire size to replace 225/50-16 stock tires is 225/45-17.

this isnt a how to question ,but more of a does anyone have a picture of the tool setup and a list of tools that go in a 1998 m roadster.I am missing most of the tools and want to replace them. Any help would be helpful.

How to install a SpeedoDRD speedometer calibrator to fix a speedometer that reads too low or too high:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=551995

From the Owner's Manual:

Emergency actuator

If the electrics or hydraulics fail, the soft-top can be raised/lowered by means of the emergency
actuator.
To raise the soft-top using the emergency actuator, the following procedure must be followed:
- Open bypass circuit on hydraulic pump unit by pulling cable.
- Release soft-top stowage compartment catch by pulling cable.
- Raise soft-top to windscreen top rail by hand.
- Engage windscreen top rail lock using Allen key.

For lowering the soft-top with the emergency actuator, the procedure is reversed.

Opening bypass circuit on hydraulic pump unit:
In the boot on the left-hand side below the soft-top stowage compartment base there is a
release cable with a plastic pull handle. The plastic pull handle is pulled out as far as it will
go and then locked in that position by turning it through 90º. This opens a bypass circuit
in the hydraulic pump unit. The soft-top can then be moved by hand.
(Note: If your hydraulic top motor is very corroded it is likely the bypass release handle will not release the bypass valve).

Emergency stowage compartment catch release

The soft-top stowage compartment catch must then be released. This involves pulling the
release cable on the rear boot trim panel. The soft-top stowage compartment catch then
disengages. The release cable is on the boot bulkhead. Pulling the release cable handle
from inside the boot releases the soft-top stowage compartment catch. The soft-top can
then be raised up to the windscreen top rail by hand.
Operating the windscreen top rail lock manually:
To lock the soft-top to the windscreen top rail, the plastic trim on the front roof bow must
be removed. Below the plastic trim panel is a socket-head bolt. Using the Allen key supplied
in the vehicle

I am looking at a 2002 M Roadster.
It ran fine and nothing was heard while driving the car.
While standing on the curb, as the car was driven away a tinney sound was heard as it
was wound up through the gears.
Any clue as to what that sound was or what caused it?

Thanks,
Al

Ok I used this forum to help troubleshoot my 1996 BMW Z3 won't go into gear. I used my Blog to track troubleshooting the issue and then ultimately changing out the Slave Cylinder. Hope it helps someone.

BLOG is here. http://z3-bmw.blogspot.com/ and my Slave Cylinder Changout starts here

Thanks bimmerfest forums for helping me save a ton of money.

Originally Posted by salvy66

I am looking at a 2002 M Roadster.
It ran fine and nothing was heard while driving the car.
While standing on the curb, as the car was driven away a tinney sound was heard as it
was wound up through the gears.
Any clue as to what that sound was or what caused it?

Thanks,
Al

Its probably the rasp caused by putting the cats inside the engine bay instead of under the car where they belong.

Also, a contributing factor is that we don't get the resonator they install on the euro cars.

Its normal for the S54.

If you heard a banging or a stumbling then that's a different story.

Recently replaced the water pump, thermostat, belts, and hoses on my Z3M. Documented the procedure and some helpful links.

https://sites.google.com/site/turbo10325/home/waterpump

Removed the door panels on my Z3M to fix the power windows. Documented the procedure.

https://sites.google.com/site/turbo10325/home/doorpanel

Many people may already know how to do this and I searched to find another HOW to on here. Maybe my search skillz are lacking so anyway I write a little Blog about the fixes I do to my 1996. This is my write up for recently fixing my "CODE WAIT" issue.

http://z3-bmw.blogspot.com/2012/02/1...code-wait.html

oh how fat fingers and big tools can EFF up metal. Here is what to do if you run into a seized or Stuck "O2 Sensor".

http://z3-bmw.blogspot.com/2012/02/r...bmw-z3-o2.html

Originally Posted by 01silber

Roadster owner's this is by far the best product to use for the rear plastic window, this is what was made for them by bmw
I have tried the mequires 2 step and this is by far easier and better then it is
simply rub it on and rub it off, that is it, 1 step and no mess
Note: I have not gotten it on the fabric so I do not know of any affects to it, but it was made for the bmw rear window by bmw so I assume there is no problem

PART #81229407665 $ 8.50 approx.

Dealer says this in no longer available.

Hi this is my first post, so hopefully someone can assist. I recently bought a 2001 3Lt Z3, and it is the first BMW I have ever owned. It is fantastic and I love it. However it has developed two problems during the short time I have owned it.

1. The drivers seat will not rise or lower. It travells forward and back ok and I can hear the motor attempting to work each time I try to rise and lower it but it doesn't work. Problem is I am 6'4" and my wife raised the seat to its maximum height when she used it, and as a reuslt I can't comfortably fit in the car when the roof is on. Even with the roof off my head sticks up above the windscreen.

2. The fuel guage stopped working the second time I filled up the tank. I believe I may have over fill the tank, which has reuslted in the fuel guage low fuel light staying on and the guage not working - permanently recording no fuel. I tried to fix it by disconecting the battery, however this didn't work.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

97 Z3...air bag light has come on recently....any idea why that would occurr...I did have the some work on the underside of the dash looking for a rattle..may this have caused something to occurr?

Originally Posted by treeman

97 Z3...air bag light has come on recently....any idea why that would occurr...I did have the some work on the underside of the dash looking for a rattle..may this have caused something to occurr?

Just a thought......try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes and see if that might reset it.

thanks,,,,,I will give that a try....and I really like your cheers icon..best one ever!

Hello everyone!

First post on here.

Here's my z3 roadster DIY site:

http://bmwz3diys.weebly.com/

Let me know how you like it!

FYI.

MZ3 coupe was formally (ie: OE window sticker) called "M coupe"
MZ4 coupe is formally called "M Coupe"

Changing alternator on Z3 3.0 any shortcuts other than the Bentley book!

Changed alternator serpentine belt an tensioners. Now having trouble with lights flickering. Anybody had this? Thanks!Also changed battery lights are still dimming up and down anyone ever had this problem?

Took me a while to work out why the alarm was not working correctly. It would go off for no reason for a while and then finally would not arm at all.

Thought it was the hood switch but that was OK. Finally noticed that the micro switch on the drivers door was worn and therefore not working when the door was closed.

Ordered a new part ( 51 21 8 399 245) - Real OEM shows left and right parts, can't see what would be different but you never know!

WARNING THE Plate that the Striker is bolted to is not attached to anything but the striker - Only remove one bolt at a time!!


Step 1 - Disconnect the cable.

Move the seat forward, remove the one screw holding the trim inside the door.

I was able to pull the trim out enough to get at the connector and do the job without to much issue - It was still hooked in at the bottom.

Disconnect the old cable and tie/tape a length of wire or string to the connector.

Pop the rubber grommet into the door post.



Step 2 - Remove the Striker.

Remove the top bolt and use a stiff wire with a bend on the end or a longer bolt to keep the plate in place.




Remove the lower bolt and ease the striker away from the panel and then replace the lower bolt.

Remove the wire or top bolt and replace the original bolt and you end up with this



Step 3 - Feed the new wire

You can pull the old cable (with the extra wire/string attached) out of the door jamb. the rubber grommet is a bit of a squeeze but makes it through.I used a hook and screw driver combo on it.

I did see another DIY where they did the opposite and cut the cable at the striker and pulled the wire backwards through the door jam.

Either way you end up with the temporary wire that you can attache the new cable to and pull it back through.

The new grommet was quiet a bit softer and was pulled through with no issue and popped into place on the inner bulkhead



Step 4 - Bolt the new striker in place.

Reverse of step 2.

Remove the top bolt - put wire or longer bolt in place.

Remove the bottom bolt. Put striker in place, replace bottom bolt.

Remove wire/temp bolt and put original top bolt back.

Tighten and adjust as required.

I just bought a 1997 Z3 from a used car dealer....need to start looking to do an Oil change....what type of oil and filter is best....has 70,000 miles, should I be looking to do other services soon?

I want to thank everyone who posted mixer control fix info. I just finished replacing the small pin that controls the AC mixer control. It took about an hour. If anyone needs help doing the job contact me by email at Sabbysteve@hotmail.com. A special thanks to Ron Stygar who posted outstanding diagrams and pictures.

Sorry, posted in the wrong area.