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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-14-2009, 08:08 PM
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CaptainTrap CaptainTrap is online now
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Fuel Injector/Seals Replacement DIY - PICS

This DIY guide is for the replacement of the (12) Fuel Injector Seals but will also serve to replace your fuel injectors in any e46 m52/m54 engine.

DISCLAIMER: Follow this guide at your own risk. You cannot hold anyone but your self responsible for any damage, injury or deaths caused by following this guide. If you choose to use the carb cleaner vacuum leak method please keep a fire extinguisher at close hand and be sure to perform this task with a completely cold engine. Happy Motoring!!!

Introduction and Diagnosis: Everyone knows that the e46 has it's quirks, a fact some of most of us pre-owned BMW owners know all too well. Lean codes in particular are something often discussed in the BMW online community. I am no exception to the people who have fallen victim to the notorious lean codes.

To diagnose weather your fuel injector seals have failed or not there are several techniques. I used a flammable carburetor cleaner sprayed on or around my fuel injectors and listened for an idle surge. If after spraying around your fuel injectors you get an idle surge it means that the fuel delivery system is taking in un-metered air causing an unbalanced fuel-to-air ratio and ultimately leading to engine misfires. After determining that several of my injector seals have failed i decided to replace all 12 seals, 6 located at the fuel injector-to-fuel rail and 6 located at the fuel injector-to-manifold. Both sets of seals can be had at pelicanparts.com for $4.00 each times 12 plus $5.50 for shipping, you are looking to spend $53.50 for this DIY.

Part Numbers:
Fuel Injector to Manifold 13-64-1-437-486
Fuel Injector to Fuel Rail 13-64-1-437-487



Prologue: Drive to your local package store with your misfiring BMW and purchase a 6 pack of Warsteiner Premium Beer


Step 1: Remove the cabin filter and engine filter housing so as to expose the engine cowling rear nuts.

Step 2: Remove the engine cowling.

Step 3: Locate the post cat oxygen sensor wires running along the top of the fuel rail and remove them from the two retainer clips and set aside. Also remove the retainer clips.


Step 4: Now locate the black long rectangular electrical box that provides power to the fuel injectors. This box also has 2 plugs, one exiting the middle of the box going to the intake manifold air temp sensor and one going to a sensor at the front of the engine bay. Remove both of these.

Step 5: Note that each fuel injector has a retention clip which fastens the electrical box to the injectors. Using a flat head screw driver pry one side of the metal clip to the side of the connection. It does not have to be removed, just offset to release the connection. (see picture). For injectors 5 and 6 (located closets to the rear of the vehicle) slide one side of the retention clip toward the rear of the vehicle because the fuel rail support bracket is in the way. Pull the electrical box off the injectors and set aside, if you pull up a little you can rotate it counter clockwise and out of the way. This will expose the 4 fuel rail bolts.


Step 6: Now that the 4 fuel rail bolts are exposed remove these using a 10mm socket. Be careful not to drop these bolts. I did several times and actually lost one in the bowels of the engine. keep a magnetic pickup tool on hand. Now the fuel rail is ready to be removed but you must first release the pressure inside of the fuel rail.


Step 7: Locate the valve toward the front of the fuel rail and unscrew the cap. It looks like a bike tire valve. Place shop rags under and over of the valve and using a flat head screw driver press on the needle to release the pressure. A minimal amount of gas will exit.


Step 8: Now you are ready to lift up the fuel rail. Place some clean shop towels next to the fuel injectors and pull up on the fuel rail to lift the injectors out of their receptacles, be gentile however because the main fuel feed line is still connected but hidden near the fire wall. Place the injector tips onto the shop towel.

Step 9: Now you have to remove injectors 5 and 6 so as to provide enough room to rotate the fuel rail to expose the main fuel feel line. Examine the new kind of retention clips that hold the fuel injectors to the fuel rail. They are three sided and can be pressed off relatively easy with your fingers (see picture). Have shop rags underneath the injectors because a moderate amount of gas will come out.




Step 10: With injectors 5 and 6 removed, pull up on the fuel rail and rotate it counter clockwise, this move will pull up the fuel line coupling from behind the fire wall. Be mindful of the fuel injector tips and where you set them down. The fuel line coupling is a "quick connect" type with a blue collar. All you have to do is press down on the blue collar and pull up on the fuel rail male line and it will pop right out of the female fuel feed line.


Step 11: Now you can bring your fuel rail over to your shop bench and begin the main work.

Step 12: Take a breather and crack open one of those Warsteiners that you have been chilling in the freezer.

Step 13: Remove each injector via the same method for injector 5 and 6. Using a pick tool or your finger nails remove and replace each seal. I rubbed some engine oil on each seal to ease the re-installation. You can use this opportunity to take or mail your injectors to a specialty shop that sonically cleans fuel injectors. Leave injector 5 and 6 out because you will have to angel the fuel rail in such a way as to mate the male fuel rail line and the female main fuel feed line again.


Step 14: Follow the reverse procedure to re-install the fuel rail.

Step 15: Congratulations...you are done!

Step 16: Drink the rest of your ice cold Warsteiner and Happy Motoring!!!

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Last edited by CaptainTrap; 05-15-2009 at 12:16 AM.
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  #2  
Old 05-14-2009, 08:48 PM
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Solidjake Solidjake is offline
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Excellent diy!!
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  #3  
Old 05-14-2009, 08:52 PM
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Needs to added to the wiki.
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:11 PM
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Good job.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:21 PM
rexinefx rexinefx is offline
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Great walk through! THANKS!

Great walk through! THANKS!
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  #6  
Old 05-14-2009, 10:57 PM
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Contribution, noted and appreciated!

Kudos.
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Old 05-15-2009, 01:11 PM
Lbert Lbert is offline
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Great diy job! Thank you for posting.

2 items to add:

- Disconnect the car battery before doing the project.

- If you decide to send the injectors for cleaning, some vendors will provide replacement seals included with the cleaning. Leave the seals attached to the injectors so the vendor can match them.
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Old 05-26-2009, 09:55 AM
mujjuman mujjuman is offline
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sweet DIY! Thanks so much, I was looking for something like this for months now.

What codes did the scanner show when you scanned your car?
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:51 PM
genuity genuity is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTrap View Post
Step 5: Note that each fuel injector has a retention clip which fastens the electrical box to the injectors. Using a flat head screw driver pry one side of the metal clip to the side of the connection. It does not have to be removed, just offset to release the connection. (see picture). For injectors 5 and 6 (located closets to the rear of the vehicle) slide one side of the retention clip toward the rear of the vehicle because the fuel rail support bracket is in the way. Pull the electrical box off the injectors and set aside, if you pull up a little you can rotate it counter clockwise and out of the way. This will expose the 4 fuel rail bolts.
Thanks for this...I was wondering yet whether I needed another "special" tool to work on this car. I couldn't figure out how to do this until I saw this. It is a bit tough to pull out for everyone else doing this but once each of these retaining clips are moved to the side, just give it a good yank.
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Old 01-24-2010, 09:35 PM
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Gj Capt'n!
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  #11  
Old 03-30-2010, 03:44 PM
bucktown bucktown is offline
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great write up thank you for the diy its been a great help. i have a question tho, ive got everything apart except for the last connection of the electrical control unit to the furthest injector, and the last bolt holding the fuel rail to the intake mani. i just cant seem to get my hand and the tools in far enough to work in there let alone the trouble light!! that shroud on the back of the engine bay (dont know what it is, air filter inlet, something ot other) is just impeding my access to the back of the motor and its really frustrating me. fyi, its the girlfriends car or i would know more lol. any suggestions? i really dont want to break anything....can i remove the shroud easily? is there a trick i dont know about? thanks for the input!!

Last edited by bucktown; 03-30-2010 at 03:45 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-30-2010, 05:13 PM
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very nice diy..thanks
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Old 03-30-2010, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bucktown View Post
. i have a question tho, ive got everything apart except for the last connection of the electrical control unit to the furthest injector, and the last bolt holding the fuel rail to the intake mani. i just cant seem to get my hand and the tools in far enough to work in there let alone the trouble light!! that shroud on the back of the engine bay (dont know what it is, air filter inlet, something ot other) is just impeding my access to the back of the motor and its really frustrating me.
this shroud you are talking about is called the cabin filter housing, it houses the cabin filter. Lol. It's removal is very simple and straight forward. There are three twist locks that secures the top, just use your fingers to unlock them and remove that and the filter underneath it. This will reveal four (t15 I think?) torx screws. Remove the torx screws and the housing pops right out. This will give you enough room to complete the DIY.

Sorry ifailed to mention these steps as it is usually the first thing we remove when working on the engine. What I want to know is how you got the engine cowling off withou removing the cabin filter housing, lol there is no room to get that last cover nut out!!!

Good luck!
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Old 03-31-2010, 01:44 AM
bucktown bucktown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTrap View Post
this shroud you are talking about is called the cabin filter housing, it houses the cabin filter. Lol. It's removal is very simple and straight forward. There are three twist locks that secures the top, just use your fingers to unlock them and remove that and the filter underneath it. This will reveal four (t15 I think?) torx screws. Remove the torx screws and the housing pops right out. This will give you enough room to complete the DIY.

Sorry ifailed to mention these steps as it is usually the first thing we remove when working on the engine. What I want to know is how you got the engine cowling off withou removing the cabin filter housing, lol there is no room to get that last cover nut out!!!

Good luck!
thats ok, i appreciate the quick reply. that is exactly the part (filter housing) that has been giving me hell. i managed to get everything but the last electrical connection, and the last fuel rail bolt without removing it. how im not quite sure, lol. i got to the point that i was going to start tearing things out so i fugured it was time to consult the internet for some advice. now that i know it was that easy i wish i would have looked sooner. oh well, now i know for next time, i see myself under the hood of the wifes car quite a bit over the next little while!

thanks for the diy, and the quick response

edit: fyi i got that far cover bolt out by slipping the 10mm socket on, then slipping a larger allen key into that and twisting the night away....

Last edited by bucktown; 03-31-2010 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 04-18-2010, 09:29 PM
bucktown bucktown is offline
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so after switching out the o-rings, and rotating the bad injectors to the front from the back for easier diagnosis if the orings werent the problem, it appears that the leak was coming from the check valve (?) looking thing on the top portion of the injector. does this indicate a faulty injector? is this reparable? or am i looking at replacing the injectors that are leaking? here is where the leaks are coming from. sorry, stole your picture. thanks for the input!!!

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-18-2010, 10:26 PM
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good job!
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Old 04-18-2010, 11:08 PM
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CaptainTrap CaptainTrap is online now
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bucktown, i would just replace the leaky injectors if that is the case.

how did you diagnose and determine that the injectors are leaking from this valve?

EDIT: i happen to have a spare complete fuel rail with injectors lying around and would be willing to part with it for a price...
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Old 04-19-2010, 10:20 AM
bucktown bucktown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptainTrap View Post
bucktown, i would just replace the leaky injectors if that is the case.

how did you diagnose and determine that the injectors are leaking from this valve?

EDIT: i happen to have a spare complete fuel rail with injectors lying around and would be willing to part with it for a price...
I rotated the suspect injectors (#4 and #6) to the front two spots in case the o-rings were not the problem and after doing that i can literaly see the gas coming out of those holes. the part of the injector that is below the rail connection and above the poppet is dry as a bone. Also, when the engine is not running and there is pressure in the rail i can actually hear the gas bubbling out of the valves too...reminds me exactly of a water pump going sour...
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:12 AM
NS0707 NS0707 is offline
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Thanks very much for the DIY instructions. I need to replace injector 4, and this this helped alot in starting the process. All the best.
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:27 PM
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THANK YOU to the OP for the awesome DIY! Thanks to this, I got brave to pull the fuel rail in the process of replacing my inlet fuel hose which had a leak. I was able to follow it just fine and I now have a new inlet fuel hose and no fuel leaks! ^
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Old 10-05-2011, 11:58 PM
KenG KenG is offline
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Very nice DIY
Next on my list after camshaft sensor this weekend

Unfortunately I'm not 21 yet, so no Warsteiner for me
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:36 AM
Wayne's World Wayne's World is offline
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Talking Really really helpful

Thanks for taking the time to put this together. I did this on a 2006 x5 and will likely do this on my 05 325i as well. As an FYI you can buy injector rebuild kits from eBay from a guy named Mr Injector. It comes with new o rings (upper & lower), filter screen and pintle caps for $25 + free shipping. note that you need to know what type of pintle end you have before ordering.
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Old 02-15-2012, 05:36 PM
mitchell172 mitchell172 is offline
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Hi all. I'm ordering my parts from Pelican and I have a quick question. When I enter the part 13-64-1-437-486, it gives me two options for way different prices. One has that part number with the designation BOE at the end and the other M30 at the end of the number. Any difference? I couldn't find anything online about it. Thanks!

Brad
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Old 02-28-2012, 11:33 AM
The-Chemist The-Chemist is offline
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autohausAZ has these seals for 2.03 lower and 2.35 upper. Like the OP, I have been chasing lean codes for awhile.....injectors are the next step for me.

Last edited by The-Chemist; 02-28-2012 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchell172 View Post
Hi all. I'm ordering my parts from Pelican and I have a quick question. When I enter the part 13-64-1-437-486, it gives me two options for way different prices. One has that part number with the designation BOE at the end and the other M30 at the end of the number. Any difference? I couldn't find anything online about it. Thanks!

Brad
Different manufacturers, otherwise will save the same purpose. 'OE' in BOE for original equipment.

I used this diy over the weekend to clean and refresh my injectors. My old ones were flat and flaking in some areas. Nice job OP
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