Help on rear wheel bearing bolts removal

When remove the rear wheel bearing bolts, do we need to remove the output CV joint boot?

I find no way to access those 4 bolts with all kinds of E-14 star socket w/ different kind of extensions

Thanks in advance.
John

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...+wheel+bearing

Originally Posted by TheStig

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...+wheel+bearing

That is a great write-up except that I am not able to put my E14 socket in to remove those 4 star bolts by following the instructions (pull as hard as the tool can, push half shaft inwards a bit etc., then unscrew the bolts).

BTW, I even bought the same pulling tool as Michel does.

Any other way to remvoe the bolts?

Are you using 3/8 drive? The BMW TIS just says to remove the bolts, It doesn't say to remove the CV joint.

Bump....

What's going on with this?

Originally Posted by BosBmw540

That is a great write-up except that I am not able to put my E14 socket in to remove those 4 star bolts by following the instructions (pull as hard as the tool can, push half shaft inwards a bit etc., then unscrew the bolts).

BTW, I even bought the same pulling tool as Michel does.

Any other way to remvoe the bolts?

You will need to use the hydraulic puller which will back out the half-shaft enough to give you clearance to put the socket in there. You really want to push the half-shaft back as far as it can go before you remove the bearing bolts.

Yes, I use 3/8 driver, it is off .1mm to fit in E14 socket into the bolt cause the CV boot is on the side way.

Yes, I bought 12-ton Hydratic puller. I tried very hard on the tool and the grease is out from back at the end yet I have not successfully to push the half shaft inwards for another 2mm in order to fit the E14 socket.

Got stuck....

Hi Michel,

By how much we need to push half-shaft in?

I am thinking about to just hammer on the axe and hope that will push it in 1cm, so I can access the bolts. Will that be save to do so?

Thanks,
-John

Originally Posted by BosBmw540

Hi Michel,

By how much we need to push half-shaft in?

I am thinking about to just hammer on the axe and hope that will push it in 1cm, so I can access the bolts. Will that be save to do so?

Thanks,
-John

I would refrain from beating it with a hammer. You might want to try jacking up the carrier a little bit and that might give you just enough angle/room to slip your socket in there. Otherwise, I would keep trying to separate the hub/bearing assembly from the halfshaft as much as possible. If it has not moved, then it is probably holding on tight due to rust formation on the splines and will require much force to break it free. One of my hubs made an exploding sound that scared the he11 out of me when it broke loose.

How much has the half shaft moved since you started using the hydraulic puller? I PM'ed you my number. Give me a call if it gives you more trouble.

Michel,

It moves about 2mm after I used the puller, then it stop. The car is year 2000, it might be rusty in and out aroud axel although I spary the liquid wrench and others, it just won't move further.

Thanks,
-John

Michel,

I did jack the hub up and down to try finding a good angel but still, no luck. The position between the bolts and the boot do not change. The boot is always vertical to the hub and the edge of boot is too close to the bolt to fit in the socket. I did try most thinner socket on the market without luck.

thanks,
-John

After reading mmm635's writeup, I decided this was more than what I wanted to mess with as a DIY and took it to a mechanic. After seeing the difficulty you're having with it, I'm glad I did. (*based on my own limited mechanical abilities). It was worth the $230 it cost me (parts included) considering I would have had to buy tools I don't have.

Good luck with it.

Originally Posted by SoonerE39

After reading mmm635's writeup, I decided this was more than what I wanted to mess with as a DIY and took it to a mechanic. After seeing the difficulty you're having with it, I'm glad I did. (*based on my own limited mechanical abilities). It was worth the $230 it cost me (parts included) considering I would have had to buy tools I don't have.

Good luck with it.

It wasn't too bad and the tools (< than $100) do all the work for you.

To access the 4-bolt, we should pull the hub assembly using either 12-T or 5-T puller.

I finish replacing the wheel bearing thanks to Michel's post and help.

-John

Get the Harbor freight 3/8"wobble extensions ($8.00) with the short E-socket set. That together with the 5-ton puller ($60.), and removing the upper front and rear control arms at the hub carrier/knuckle will do the trick. The 5T unit is more than enough. The 12 T will not fit. Put a floor jack under the carrier and raise and lower it for best access.

i had to push the rear axle in as far as possible and then, as mentioned by melrose, jack the rear carrier up and down to get access. it was a huge PITA. that and dousing the things with PB Blaster. but when the went, it was hugely satisfying. i did one with hand tools and one with air tools, neesless to say, the air tools made it go a lot faster, that and the hydrolic press to push the inner race off the hub. though it should be an afternoon job, this was by far the biggest job i have done on a car.

also, make sure you dont lift the whole car off the jack stand when lifting the carrier up and down, i did, put a hole in the bottom of the rocker panel. not cool.

I replaced my rear wheel bearing and had no issue with the axle, just tapped it in with a wood block and hammer. Still it was hard to get the torx on the 4 bolts but I managed, needed an impact wrench.

Originally Posted by BosBmw540

That is a great write-up except that I am not able to put my E14 socket in to remove those 4 star bolts by following the instructions (pull as hard as the tool can, push half shaft inwards a bit etc., then unscrew the bolts).

BTW, I even bought the same pulling tool as Michel does.

Any other way to remvoe the bolts?

You have to use the short socket assortmant. It comes in a blue vinyl box. The deep well ones defeat the wobble socket extensions because they bang into the boot. Some of the sockets you can get to easier with a plain extension, because you don't have to lne it up, with the socket flopping around like a VIAGRA patient.

Originally Posted by BosBmw540

It wasn't too bad and the tools (< than $100) do all the work for you.

To access the 4-bolt, we should pull the hub assembly using either 12-T or 5-T puller.

I finish replacing the wheel bearing thanks to Michel's post and help.

-John

You have the hub off, and once that occurs you will be able to reach behind and move the shaft and boot. Try HB penetrating oil it is a far superior product. Spray it with the straw and leave it overnight. It will work. My car may be old but it was an eastern North Carolina car so it never saw snow. Moved to Kansas, and can't get it up the steep golf course driveway.