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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-01-2009, 05:53 AM
djt5150 djt5150 is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 528i
Crankcase Vent Replacement (CCV) 528i

So, friday night I finally got around to changing the CCV. It's been sitting on the workbench ever since I did the zionsville...

The CCV is a lot like a normal PCV on any other car...BMW calls it a CCV, and it's a lot bigger, and a lot harder to get to than a normal PCV. It's hidden under the intake manifold, but as aioros showed...it can be changed out without removing the intake manfold. It's a pretty straight forward job, it just takes patience and determination.

Some symptoms of a bad CCV can be:

1. Vacuum leak. Causes lack of power and may throw a CEL for o2 sensor adaptation limit. Gas mileage suffers.
2. Oil leaks. When the bottom hose gets clogged or decomposes, you'll get an oil leak.


Just a couple of notes on this. This is the DIY I followed from aioros:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=354754

Here is the Real Oem diagram for my 2000 528i:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...94&hg=11&fg=15

Buy the parts (use realoem.com and enter your specific car info and go to the corresponding diagram to get your part numbers). Go ahead and get all of the hoses that connect to the CCV in the realoem.com diagram for your car. You gotta take a lot of stuff off to get to the CCV, and if you do not buy all of the hoses, you'll be kicking yourself. I did not get the one that is really hard to disconnect...if I had a new one, I would have just cut the old one off and saved a bunch of time.

Buy a dipstick O-ring.

Buy a throttle body gasket.

Buy a new CCV with all hoses.

Make sure you've got a nice set of torx sockets (3/8" drive). Since you are saving a ton of money by not taking your car to the dealership...you can afford to invest in some tools.

Print out this page, too. It's for cleaning the ICV. It has to come off to get to the CCV, so you might as well clean it, too:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=928735

Follow the first link above and start taking stuff off. Take off the air box, MAF, and intake boots. Remove intake manifold control unit. Remove the dipstick. Remove the bolts to the electronic control unit and the ICV. Remove the throttle body and lay it to the side (don't even think about taking the linkage off - just set it to the side). Finally, you can start to take hoses off of the CCV. Please note that the lower left hose is NOT a "squeeze and pull" fitting like the rest. It actually twists on and off. That slowed me down trying to get that one off. I kept trying to squeeze it, and it's in a really tight space, anyway.

Once you get it out, you're home free. Mine had much worse damage to the lower hose that goes to the dipstick. It was melted (or maybe rotted?) in half. It fell apart.

I put mine back together slowly. I cleaned everything in the process. I didn't want to get in a rush and miss hooking up a sensor or a vacuum hose. Take your time and don't get in a hurry. Clean the ICV and intake manifold control unit. I couldn't find the torque spec of the throttle body to the manifold...so I just snugged these four bolts (I'm pretty sure that they are aluminum bolts, so do not overtighten or you'll be dead in the water).

Aioros said it took him 4 hrs+. I'm a decent backyard mechanic with a nice shop, and I'd say 4 hours is a minimum if you've never done it before.

As soon as I got it on the road, I immediately noticed that it had more power. The computer verified this. I was running a constant 25.3 mpg for the last two months. It ran 28.6 all weekend after changing the CCV and hoses. The throttle response is great. I think that this has really complimented the VANOS fix that I did earlier this year. Car is now running really good with no check engine light.
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2009, 10:06 AM
krguy33 krguy33 is offline
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Thats good news!
Vanos and CCV is next on my list of things to do. Saw a nice kit over at ECS for the CCV.
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Last edited by krguy33; 06-01-2009 at 10:12 AM.
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2009, 10:08 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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You bet! feel like a new car. Just replaced three of them one on M52, and two on M54. I agreed that if you replace the CCV you fix half of the problem on Bimmerfest!!!
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  #4  
Old 06-01-2009, 10:19 AM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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Nice DIY!


I need to do this.
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  #5  
Old 06-01-2009, 03:05 PM
mosearch mosearch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djt5150 View Post

Once you get it out, you're home free. Mine had much worse damage to the lower hose that goes to the dipstick. It was melted (or maybe rotted?) in half. It fell apart.
t.
How many miles on your 528i?
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  #6  
Old 06-01-2009, 05:12 PM
mosearch mosearch is offline
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Originally Posted by djt5150 View Post

Buy a throttle body gasket.

.
Got a part number on that throttle body gasket...?
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2009, 05:13 PM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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Originally Posted by mosearch View Post
Got a part number on that throttle body gasket...?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do


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  #8  
Old 06-01-2009, 05:34 PM
mosearch mosearch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStig View Post
Thanks, stig. and I know you did that just to be helpful...thing is, i already went there...and got this:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...08&hg=13&fg=15
Any further help on what it means when realoem says " No parts found matching your car." ?
I have a year 2000 528i, Vin # GU13279...
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  #9  
Old 06-01-2009, 05:40 PM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosearch View Post
I have a year 2000 528i, Vin # GU13279...
The part number is 11611716174. The vin makes it easy.

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._CA4918F1.aspx

$4.35 ...
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  #10  
Old 06-01-2009, 06:26 PM
mosearch mosearch is offline
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Originally Posted by TheStig View Post
The part number is 11611716174. The vin makes it easy.

$4.35 ...
thanks...somehow I couldn't find the backdoor there
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  #11  
Old 06-01-2009, 06:34 PM
Jared@EAC Jared@EAC is offline
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Definitely buy all the hoses. And if you are in a cold weather area I'd get the cold weather climate version.
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  #12  
Old 06-01-2009, 07:02 PM
Jared@EAC Jared@EAC is offline
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Here's the cold weather version.

http://www.eactuning.com/parts/produ...ls/11617534237
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  #13  
Old 06-02-2009, 04:43 AM
djt5150 djt5150 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mosearch View Post
How many miles on your 528i?
I think it's up to 140k.
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  #14  
Old 06-04-2009, 11:08 AM
Dworkin Dworkin is offline
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Is this any easier if the car were up on a lift? I have access to an auto hobby shop and can use the lifts there for $6 an hour.
Also, is the CCV replacement for the 530s about the same? Seems like a lot of work!
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  #15  
Old 06-04-2009, 11:56 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dworkin View Post
Is this any easier if the car were up on a lift? I have access to an auto hobby shop and can use the lifts there for $6 an hour.
Also, is the CCV replacement for the 530s about the same? Seems like a lot of work!

No, I dont think it would be any easier on a lift. I think the 530 M54 engine is a bit easier, but not much.
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  #16  
Old 06-04-2009, 12:06 PM
Jared@EAC Jared@EAC is offline
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Agree with Alex....
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  #17  
Old 06-04-2009, 01:55 PM
Dworkin Dworkin is offline
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Dooh! after reviewing all the diagrams and parts it looks like it is definately on top of the engine!
What else is good to do if I'm gonna tackle it? ICV cleaning I see listed, what else?

Thanks!
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  #18  
Old 06-04-2009, 02:34 PM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dworkin View Post
Dooh! after reviewing all the diagrams and parts it looks like it is definately on top of the engine!
What else is good to do if I'm gonna tackle it? ICV cleaning I see listed, what else?

Thanks!
Look for any vacuum leaks.


Here is a thread about the cold climate CCV.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1242165
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  #19  
Old 06-04-2009, 03:26 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...php?p=16477341
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  #20  
Old 06-04-2009, 03:30 PM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheStig View Post

hehe, too slow.
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  #21  
Old 06-06-2009, 01:26 PM
rich30769 rich30769 is offline
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Talking

Just completed the CCV and all the hoses at exactly 3:30 pm EST. So in the last 8 months I've completed entire cooling system overhaul, vanos and now the CCV. By the way every single hose to the CCV was either ripped or cracked, even the hose that plugsinto the top of the hose that goes top of the CCV. Only thing left to change is the differential fluid and the fuel filter. I know the 2 easiest changes but I'm procrastinating with doing it. No more noise coming from the engine bay. Thank you Jesus. BUT now I just got a code 41, camshaft sensor, code 77, Motorized Throttle Valve (MDK) mechanically stuck and code 08 Air Mass Sensor. Now I'm sure this is just something that I have to take apart and reinstall, but it just kills me that after doing the CCV in 4/5 hours that these things pop up. *@#&%........................ To top it all off, I was in limp mode all the way home. Always something.

Last edited by rich30769; 06-06-2009 at 02:08 PM.
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  #22  
Old 06-06-2009, 04:54 PM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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code 08 Air Mass Sensor. To top it all off, I was in limp mode all the way home.
The think the limp mode has something to do with your bad MAF.
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  #23  
Old 06-06-2009, 07:16 PM
rich30769 rich30769 is offline
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Originally Posted by TheStig View Post
The think the limp mode has something to do with your bad MAF.
I hope its that simple. Also, I noticed when in park and I goosed it, it has a sound as if I had a CAI installed which I don't and when giving it gas, peddle was all the way to the floor but it struggled to reach 40 mph. Once it did it picked up fine then it went into limp mode.
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  #24  
Old 06-06-2009, 07:21 PM
TheStig TheStig is offline
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Originally Posted by rich30769 View Post
I hope its that simple. Also, I noticed when in park and I goosed it, it has a sound as if I had a CAI installed which I don't and when giving it gas, peddle was all the way to the floor but it struggled to reach 40 mph. Once it did it picked up fine then it went into limp mode.
Did you double check all of your connections? The CAI sound might be a intake leak.
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  #25  
Old 06-06-2009, 07:28 PM
rich30769 rich30769 is offline
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Originally Posted by TheStig View Post
Did you double check all of your connections? The CAI sound might be a intake leak.
Gonna wait til tomorrow morning when its light out. Definitely going to go back over my connections. I know it has to be something really simple, other then the howling sound, bad gas mileage and the vacuum leaks, car ran decent ( if that's what I can call it, but it definitely ran better then now). Was definitely looking foward to driving her today. Best laid plans huh? Just ordered a new MAF.

Last edited by rich30769; 06-06-2009 at 07:31 PM.
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