E36 very slow acceleration need help

E36 sometimes the acceleration Is very slow almost not moving slow. But after about 3500 rpm the car takes off. And ideals on what to check first. Car idles fine. Starts right up. Thanks.

Fuel?
Plugs?
Fuel filter?
Air filter?
missing?
codes?
engine?
transmission?
year?



Your post seems a little light on details.

Is it a 318... Because that's just how it is.

1997 328i 2.8 new fuel filter auto transmission with new fluid and filter, sometimes the car runs ok but not very often.

1997 328 I new fuel filter new trans filter with fluid. Auto trans no codes. Car idles good. Just slo slow take off.

Auto? Yikes ....

Start by replacing the plugs, and inspecting the coil boots. Replace air filter if you haven't.

This could be a VANOs issue, are hearing any rattling in the engine bay?

No noise from the vanos. The engine does not miss at all when I disconnect the maf the engine revs up great.

Have you tried cleaning the MAF?

If that makes a difference when unplugged.

Yes I cleaned the maf did not make a difference. Bought a new one off eBay but when I plugged it up the transmission warning light can on and the car shifts hard when driving.

Run Diagnostics for codes


search for TCM
Transmission Control Module

EDIT:
Stomp Test does indeed apply ONLY to obd1

Originally Posted by bmw-mania

Stomp test

search for TCM
Transmission Control Module

What good will the stomp test do the OP with a '97 328? I was of the understanding that was only for OBD I cars Yes I know perfectly well, just not trying to start a fight.

multitasking.. dammit

he bought a maf from ebay. didnt someone from here do the same thing and their car ran like poo?

(unless he happened to get an oem one )

Originally Posted by chase62002

No noise from the vanos. The engine does not miss at all when I disconnect the maf the engine revs up great.

Here's a pretty significant clue. Yes you say you cleaned it. try cleaning it again. Th
ere's something wrong with it.

Originally Posted by Dino1394

he bought a maf from ebay. didnt someone from here do the same thing and their car ran like poo?

(unless he happened to get an oem one )

Is the one you bought OEM? Was it new? Used?

Do you know anyone else with an E36 that you can swap MAF's with to test?

Ten four could it be the vanos unit. Does it advance the timing at a set rpm?

wait how many issues are you experiencing?


yes at around 3/3.5k rpms youll feel a sudden burst of power = vanos seals

but then you mention the car doesnt misfire when you unplug the maf
but before that you said it idles fine?

im a little confused now

...


If it were the vanos.. it would be making a significant amount of noise..

Clean, Clean, Clean the MAF.. remove screens on MAF, use spray FIRST, (and LIGHTLY with q-tip if necessary) clean the element.
Clean Throttle body
Clean Throttle position sensor
Check for vacuum leaks
Check the hoses that are plumbed into the boot on intake

Disconnect, clean, lube, and reconnect all associated electrical connections.

Originally Posted by bmw-mania

...
Clean, Clean, Clean the MAF.. remove screens on MAF, use spray FIRST, (and LIGHTLY with q-tip if necessary) clean the element.
Clean Throttle body
Clean Throttle position sensor
Check for vacuum leaks
Check the hoses that are plumbed into the boot on intake

Disconnect, clean, lube, and reconnect all associated electrical connections.

Why don't you put that in your sig? Then you could just put "Read below".

Originally Posted by Dino1394

wait how many issues are you experiencing?


yes at around 3/3.5k rpms youll feel a sudden burst of power = vanos seals

...

+1 on this and it will not set a CEL.

Unplug the VANOS solenoid and drive the car. If there is no difference, you need to replace the VANOS seals.
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
or
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?opt...&id=1&Itemid=2

Originally Posted by granlund

+1 on this and it will not set a CEL.

Unplug the VANOS solenoid and drive the car. If there is no difference, you need to replace the VANOS seals.
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
or
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?opt...&id=1&Itemid=2

is that safe? i wanna try it just for the heck of to see what my car will do lol

Originally Posted by hornhospital

Why don't you put that in your sig? Then you could just put "Read below".

You made me laugh.
+1 and 3 gold stars for you. :thumbs

Originally Posted by granlund

+1 on this and it will not set a CEL.

Unplug the VANOS solenoid and drive the car. If there is no difference, you need to replace the VANOS seals.
http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm
or
http://www.drvanos.com/index.php?opt...&id=1&Itemid=2

Interesting..

do you have a dvom?? if so, check the voltage @ the maf @ idle. iirc it should be at about 0.8v @ idle.



df

Originally Posted by Dino1394

is that safe? i wanna try it just for the heck of to see what my car will do lol

Yes, I recently diagnosed a friend's car that way.

The electrical wire goes from the solenoid on the front edge of the motor (near the oil filter housing) to a connector underneath the intake manifold. It might be a little bit difficult to reach the connector, but you should see it.

If there is no electrical signal to the solenoid, it will not apply oil pressure to the VANOS piston to advance the cam. However, if the VANOS piston seals are bad (which is very common on older cars), the oil pressure will also not advance the cam and you will experience poor performance.

This is an easy way of diagnosing the VANOS with no cost in parts, nor any measurements.

Originally Posted by granlund

Yes, I recently diagnosed a friend's car that way.

The electrical wire goes from the solenoid on the front edge of the motor (near the oil filter housing) to a connector underneath the intake manifold. It might be a little bit difficult to reach the connector, but you should see it.

If there is no electrical signal to the solenoid, it will not apply oil pressure to the VANOS piston to advance the cam. However, if the VANOS piston seals are bad (which is very common on older cars), the oil pressure will also not advance the cam and you will experience poor performance.

This is an easy way of diagnosing the VANOS with no cost in parts, nor any measurements.

Just tried it. Good easy to test the vanos.

Now i know why my moms car stalls during cold weather warm ups

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