sunroof won't go in tilt mode and makes rattle sound.

i have a 2000 528i and just a few months ago i noticed my sunroof wasnt going into tilt mode. soon after that i started hearing something in the headliner rattling when i reach certain speeds or hit bumpy roads. i payed no attention to it only because i had to get other services done to the car. the sunroof opens up and slided back and closed with no problems. i then noticed the other day that when i close the sunroof it appears to look like its sagging a little

heres a pic


water doesnt seem to be leaking in but i just wanna get it fixed. anyone know or experienced this?

heres the link for the parts you need. you need parts #13 and 14.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...95&hg=54&fg=05
and here's a how too. it's sorta long but i belive some else was able to reapiar there's with taking the whole assembly out.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...643&highlight=

cool thanks bro...did u have the same problem? and is this common?

yes and yes. but after a while it wouldn't open at all.

how much did u end up spending and did you DIY?

i spent 60 bucks on the two kits. they come with a buch of parts that you don't need, but i went ahead and use them any ways. and yes i diy it. it'll take a better part of a day.

aite cool thanks man..i asked a shop and they are tryin to charge me 450 to fix it

Originally Posted by mic0ne23

aite cool thanks man..i asked a shop and they are tryin to charge me 450 to fix it

I tried to do it myself and could not get some of the broken parts out. I tried for hours but no success. When I called the service advisor at the dealer, he told me the reason I couldn't do it was because you had to take the whole cassette out of the car to replace the parts. I didn't have the time, patience or knowhow to do this so I turned it over to them. Over $900 later, it was done. $450 doesn't sound too bad now, does it?

My glass moonroof (is yours a sunroof or a moonroof?) was rattling around in its hole when I went over bumps, and did not tilt up like it should.

I found a page on the Bimmerboard website in which an E38 owner was having the same problems. He suggested pulling the rubber accordion baffles out of each side of the sunroof, and adjusting the two screws behind them. They control the 'looseness' of the glass to a certain degree, and readjusting them stopped the rattling when going over bumps.

However, the non-tilting problem stayed. Probably because its winter here, and I dont have a place to store the car while I do the fix for the tilt problem. I plan to do that around december when its summer

Originally Posted by M///Chook

My glass moonroof (is yours a sunroof or a moonroof?) was rattling around in its hole when I went over bumps, and did not tilt up like it should.

I found a page on the Bimmerboard website in which an E38 owner was having the same problems. He suggested pulling the rubber accordion baffles out of each side of the sunroof, and adjusting the two screws behind them. They control the 'looseness' of the glass to a certain degree, and readjusting them stopped the rattling when going over bumps.

However, the non-tilting problem stayed. Probably because its winter here, and I dont have a place to store the car while I do the fix for the tilt problem. I plan to do that around december when its summer

has anyone done this? i still have the problem

my sunroof sags lower now and rattles after each and every bump!

Originally Posted by lild

i spent 60 bucks on the two kits. they come with a buch of parts that you don't need, but i went ahead and use them any ways. and yes i diy it. it'll take a better part of a day.

what kit was this again?

check the link i posted to realeoam at the top, it should be part 13, i know it said 60 bucks but i don't think there that much any more, and i got them at the dealer.

mic,

I have done a sunroof repair with the same symptoms. the tilt rods were broken. sounds like you have same problem but of course you have to remove the sunroof glass to really find out for sure. i probably spent about $60 for the parts and found a diy in the forums. took about 1 hr. i will try to find all the stuff i used and relay that info to you.

Try this diy, i think this is the one i did and solved my tilt/noise over bumps/glass sag problems
http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/8023857-4.html

Originally Posted by omegaraid

Try this diy, i think this is the one i did and solved my tilt/noise over bumps/glass sag problems
http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/8023857-4.html

Thanks for the linky. I have the no tilt problem, with a rattle when I hit a bump. No sagging on the moonroof, though. And roof still slides open, for now anyways....
Were there any special tools or tricks to do this procedure?

Originally Posted by omegaraid

Try this diy, i think this is the one i did and solved my tilt/noise over bumps/glass sag problems
http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/8023857-4.html

Larry!!!! thanks bro! wussup with ur car pics man?

Originally Posted by DHoang

Thanks for the linky. I have the no tilt problem, with a rattle when I hit a bump. No sagging on the moonroof, though. And roof still slides open, for now anyways....
Were there any special tools or tricks to do this procedure?

no special tools just some torx screw drivers and some rail lubricant. Its a fairly easy diy. It was actually the first diy that I did when I first got my car (with minimal knowledge on cars and even less on bimmers)

Glad it helps.

Hey mike, no pics yet, car is super dirty because it rained recently here in vegas. i am hoping to get some pics up soon. hopefully it will snow here so i can get the initiative to take pics lol.

Here's another link if this is your problem http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/8381150-1.html

sorry to anyone that gets mad at me for bumping this i just experienced the same thing today and need to bookmark this...instead of remaking a post later on asking how i can go about fixing this problem.

it's a real pleasure to have a search option on this site hopefully everyone can figure this out... that is all I want for christmas.

Originally Posted by M///Chook

My glass moonroof (is yours a sunroof or a moonroof?) was rattling around in its hole when I went over bumps, and did not tilt up like it should.

I found a page on the Bimmerboard website in which an E38 owner was having the same problems. He suggested pulling the rubber accordion baffles out of each side of the sunroof, and adjusting the two screws behind them. They control the 'looseness' of the glass to a certain degree, and readjusting them stopped the rattling when going over bumps.

However, the non-tilting problem stayed. Probably because its winter here, and I dont have a place to store the car while I do the fix for the tilt problem. I plan to do that around december when its summer

"I found a page on the Bimmerboard website in which an E38 owner was having the same problems. He suggested pulling the rubber accordion baffles out of each side of the sunroof, and adjusting the two screws behind them. They control the 'looseness' of the glass to a certain degree, and readjusting them stopped the rattling when going over bumps."

I think I need to do this since my tilt is ok but it rattles on the right side. I'll update this later if I get to it..

Also found someone posted this awhile ago..

" My wife and I played around with every piece this weekend and finally solved it.

Just to quickly recap how I got to this point. With the sun roof completely closed see if you can get the sun roof glass to lift up a tiny bit in the front of the car. Push up on the glass from one corner to the other. The glass in my car was clearly hitting sitting above it. What I did was:

1. Turn the car on and get out of the car
2. Stand on the side of the car in front of the driver's side seat
3. Have someone slide the glass back about 5 inches going very slowly. This done so you can see the piece I'm going to talk about.
4. As you are looking at the glass sliding back take notice of a black piece of metal that runs side to side (not front to back). This is the piece you'll be playing with.
5. Slide the glass all the way back; now the sun roof is totally open. You should be able to press down on the metal piece I've been talking about. This is a picture of the piece: http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j4...ofPICT6178.jpg it came from this write up: http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/8381150-1.html
6. I knew this metal piece was the problem, but I had NO idea how to fix it. It wasn't broken from what I could see; maybe it's just worn. That's ok, because I went old school on it. As you press the metal piece down you'll notice two recessed grooves on the far end that the piece seems to slide into.
7. Clean the recessed area with alcohol and a cloth.
8. Get a circular piece of felt that has adhesive on the back of it. What I used were the little discs that you can buy to put on the bottom of furniture so that it doesn't scratch a wood floor. This is really cheap to get; cost me $2.00 at Target. Here is what you are looking for: http://www.installersstore.com/cgi-b...alogno=27-0066
9. Cut the circular piece on half; place one half in one recessed area and the other half in the other recessed area.
10. Cut up another circular piece in half and put it on the bottom of the metal piece in the middle of the metal with the felt piece facing down.

Rattle is all gone after that. It literally takes 5 minutes and $2.00."

Just now with the roof closed and the boot off I could feel the broken plastic piece and move the slider to line up where it cracked, then took a 3/8" ball of epoxy putty and carefully pushed it over the crack area to form a fillet. It probably won't hold for opening the tilt vent but if I don't do that but just retract the roof only, the joint should hold. The point it cracks is a pivot point when the roof is tilted up and when this pivot point is broken free, the arm is free to rattle over bumps. The rattle is now gone.

Originally Posted by lild

heres the link for the parts you need. you need parts #13 and 14.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...95&hg=54&fg=05
and here's a how too. it's sorta long but i belive some else was able to reapiar there's with taking the whole assembly out.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...643&highlight=

You mentioned numbers 13 and 14? Do you need 14 or did u mean 13 and the right side 13? I have the tilt problem

OK, I have this problem on my 2000 528i. I've read through all the threads on this and there are several DIY instructions posted in different places, but they're all a little different. The one that seems the most popular (and simple) is this one, but all the links to the photos are broken so it isn't a lot of help:

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/11556388

There is also this one - which has a lot of great photos - but it seems like the guy made a few mistakes in the process and had to go back and redo some of it. I'm not sure I really want to retrace his footsteps:

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/119...1#post11913681

Can anyone point me to a link with up-to-date DIY instructions including good photos?

Also, where is the best place to buy the two Control Rail Kits? I've seen them at several places on the Internet for ~$70 each, but one place had them for ~$25 each, so I'm a little suspicious about them. I want real BMW parts...

yea, I'd like to know where to get these too for the best price. I DIY these once b/f and somehow I broke the new rails while trying to see whether the new rails are installed correctly.

Someone posted this, and it all makes sense to me now.

If for some reason the motor drive looses the sense of where the slider is, relative to the track, then the system enters in a "find it" procedure. This is regardless any change you make, and even not influenced by the hard reset (fuse remove). There is no sensor that indicate where the slide is, so here is how the motor computer find it: when you touch the roof switch, the motor drive pull the slider all the way forward, until it force the mechanism against the track and limiters. The motor drive computer then sense the high current driven caused by the motor sudden stop when it reachs the resistance. It register the position as fwd limit, then immediately count some time back for the resting position. Very simple, effective and ingenious. The trick is, if you allow the system enter in this mode WITHOUT THE GLASS isntalled, there will be no firm mechanism resistence, then the drive motor will break your plastic sliders again. Like a lazy idiot, I lost 5 kits until I realize the procedure should only be entered AFTER the glass reinstalled. Of course Cameron didn't experienced this !!