Oil Line ---> Vanos, CCV, ICV and Alternator Air Duct (E39)

Originally Posted by mrodoc

Excellent write up. I need to do my 1995 E34 525i. I assume the process is very similar to the E39?

http://luuk.xs4all.nl/bmwboeken/Bent...ice_Manual.pdf

Thinking of doing it on my car.

* Get an assorted mixture of vacuum hoses, heater hoses (ID = 1/2") and hoses with different diameters to replace different rubber hoses.

How many, and where'd you get them? I'm trying to get a shopping list together…

I LOVE THIS SITE...AND CAN SEE IF U HAVE BASIC MECHANICAL KNOWLEDGE...U WILL SAVE BIG BUCKS NEXT I NEED TO DO A COOLING SYSTEM OVERHAUL. MY 97 528i HAS A SMALL OVERHEATING ISSUE. TOP RAD HOSE FILLS UP WITH STEAM...I AM THINKING BAD CIRCULATION IN RAD...W/P CHANGED, THERMOSTAT CHANGED, CLUTCH FAN CHANGED...FINALLY BELTS CHANGED...DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THIS IS BIG ISSUE???

I have only problem. I need the code for my radio. I hope the dealer doesnt charge me an arm and a leg, just for the codes.

You scare me cn90! How I wish I could do what you do!

I bought all the recommended parts in the shopping list (except misc. hoses). I have read the related info pages a few times and I'm at the point that I can't prepare further without actually taking things apart. Unfortunately my cheap Carsoft OBD II package does not work on my car (crashes on every diagnostic attempt), and the rental OBD device from the auto parts stores don't work on my car either (tried last year). This means I have to note every step and be able to put things back the right way. Hopefully I can get help from this forum when I have problems or questions. I plan to start this task this weekend.

Originally Posted by harris2p

I bought all the recommended parts in the shopping list (except misc. hoses)....

You will need those misc. vacuum hoses.
Either you buy them ahead of time (they are very cheap and return what you don't need), or you will need a 2nd car or bicycle ready in case you need to run to your local autoparts store.

Originally Posted by harris2p

...This means I have to note every step and be able to put things back the right way. Hopefully I can get help from this forum when I have problems or questions. I plan to start this task this weekend.

Just keep your digital camera nearby for the whole thing and take tons of pictures. It's free documentation and if you get stuck, just view all your photos in reverse order, newest to oldest, to puth things back together. Could also help wehn you need to ask for help here. Sometimes a pic with a circle or arrow on it is a lot easier than trying to find the correct words to describe something specifically.

cn90,
great job!

doing this vary soon. just mapped out everything along with the vanos. Your the man!!

Whatever your guys do, this DIY was for 1997 and 1998 models.
1999-2003 is a bit different, check realoem.com for PNs. For 1999-2003: check poolman's or Fudman's DIY.

Here is Fudman's DIY for M54 motor:
http://www.forums.bimmerfest.com/sho...d.php?t=409240

Great write up cn90! ditto on the E34 525i.

I finally and successfully did my intake system DIY last weekend! After a long stretch of anticipation & nervousness, I got my hands into it like there was no other way out. It was good to have back-up transportation and a parts store nearby. I finished my work at midnight Sunday. I started the car this morning and it started on first try. The engine runs more smoothly, no more gas-smell at engine start-up, no more failed IAT sensor, gas mileage is to be seen. No more power steering leak. Here are a few things I did or observed or tried:

- It's useful to have white marker for labeling matching connectors. You can do things in order up to the point that you need to move the spaghetti wires out of the way. When reassembling, keep the wires away from heat sources as much as possible.

- I used a cardboard to take notes and as a loose bolt holder (together with the related steps) (see my "signature" image). This turned out to be very useful (cardboards don't mind greasy hands). I took pics for back-up, but used cn90's guide's image numbers on my notes. I also have a Compac evo n610c laptop with wireless internet access in the working area to reference the DIY guide.

- I cleaned the ICV with throttle cleaning spray and Q-tips.

- I didn't want to start reassembling because I felt uncertain that I did everything correctly (leaving things un-assembled was incomplete, but not wrong ...)

- It's much easier to remove the engine air filter assembly (up to the DSC throttle) if you unmount the wall-mount plastic electrical device on top of the air filter fist, and disconnect the low beam headlight connector. And remove the air supply pipe at the DSC throttle side first. Installation is reversed.

- If you need to change the power steering (suction) hose, do the above step, then unmount the power steering reservoir (2 bolts), open it's cap and flip it to pour the fluid into an empty honey roasted peanut can . Remove the middle L-shape section of the alternator air pipe to gain access the bottom clamp of the power steering suction hose - No need to raise the car.

- Power steering (suction) hose loses it's elasticity so replacing the clamps alone will not stop its leak (may work in a very short time). This can be easily replaced with a $15 5/8" I.D. L-shape hose and new clamp(s) from your local parts store.

- No problem with intake manifold nut# 7 if you remove the left (driver side) cabin air pipe (forgot its name) connecting to firewall.

- Even after reading plenty of warnings about dropping the 11-mm nuts, I also dropped it while remounting the intake manifold. It's good to have a claw pick-up tool and small flashlight.

- This project has been very educational, you can access many things if you can get this far (starter, solenoid, heater hoses ...)

Thanks again to cn90 and others for your guides and comments.

I love your carboard trick for labeling nuts and bolts (as long as you don't accidentally kick the card board ha)!!!

Originally Posted by 528ibimmer

doing this vary soon. just mapped out everything along with the vanos. Your the man!!

528ibimmer,

Do this DIY first then worry about the Vanos seals later.
My car is the same as yours 1998 528i with 110K miles, and it has Single Vanos.
My car runs smooth like butter so I am not wasting my time doing the Vanos Seals thus yet.
When the Vanos Seals go bad, the symptoms are WORSE for Double Vanos cars.

So w.r.t. your symptoms of bad cold idle, do this ICV CCV DIY in this link first.
If it does not solve your problems, then look into the Vanos Seals!

Nice write up! Bravo!

Great writeup! Saved my butt!

What I found to be a neat trick is to pull out the fuel injector system. This is done by removing the bolts between the green dots on Figure 4b, removing the connector at the front, and removing the three plastic clips that hold the cables on top of the fuel injector system. After that you just wiggle the system up. You may need to apply some force because the jets are stuck in there pretty well. After that, you can feel under the back of the intake manifold for two clips that hold the two fuel lines. Once you have opened them, the hoses are no longer connected to the intake manifold, and you can move the fuel injector system out of the way far enough to fit a socket to the last nut at the back of the intake manifold. I have pretty big hands, but removing the fuel injector system left me with enough room to unscrew the nuts (green dots on Figure 4b) with my fingers after they have been loosened with a socket. This way you don't have to worry about dropping the nuts.

Benefits:
No need to disconnect fuel lines
Avoid dropping nuts
No need to do tricky things with a wrench to unscrew the last screw.

Misha

finished this a few days again. Thanks again CN, the idle is alot smoother and doesnt jolt anymore. Also the A/C improved as well. No performance increase but feels stronger. The line that goes from the CCV to the dipstick houseing part was clogged. Also all the gaskets were gunked. Did it take so sweat and tears? i think so, like you said, about an 8 hour job. I topped it off with a fresh oil change and was done for the day and couldnt be more happy with the results. Anyone itching to do this, GET IT DONE.

Originally Posted by cn90

If BMW still makes the E23 5-speed, I'd buy it tomorrow in a heart beat!
It was such a pleasure to drive the E23 beauty on the highway, the M30 3.5L motor has so much low-end torque because of its single overhead cam, coupled with the 5-sp Getrag Man Trans ---> that I smoked many Corvette and Camaro's with Auto Trans....hehe. Plus the M30 engine compartment is logically laid out, easy to work on. The E39 engine compartment is TIGHT, making the job much harder.

To CN90) Mennnnn!!!! like I said you're the best in the town!!! to have performed all these difficult terrific jobs all by your self! Not only that, you also took your time to pictured step by step all the parts that you removed, described them each and share the entire process to this forum.
That was unbelievable!!! What can I say...(A true hero with a lot of patience, well organized!)
Obviously! I don't think you're just a simple BMW owner who usually doing a few works like me but a real experienced mecanic Men; because I ain't gonna lie I can't even follow all these procedures.

01 BMW X5 4.4i M62

These posts helped me do the CCV (only) on my 99 M Coupe (S52) in about 45 minutes. My task may have been simpler than others because of model differences, but here is what I did.

I bought a 10mm ratcheting box end from Sears...

Removed the air filter box.

Removed the crankcase vent pipe (to CCV).

Removed the vent tube from the lower connection leading to the dipstick tube.

Loosened one hose clamp to give access to the first of the three 10mm bolts holding the CCV on its bracket.

Removed the 3 10mm bolts (thank you, Sears), then removed the CCV...snaking it forward over the alternator into the space made available by removing the air filter box. Minor maneuvering required.

I then attached the new vent tube to the bottom of the new CCV and installed them (after inserting a new rubber grommet to the underside of the intake manifold). The 3 10mm bolts installed easily with the ratcheting box end.

Attached the vent tube to the dipstick tube. Attached the crankcase vent pipe. Tightened the hose clamp. Installed the air filter box.

Done in 45 minutes. No misadventures in this case, though far more limited in scope than the above project(s).

Hope it helps.

Originally Posted by Curt2128

good wright up!!! u should have done a m50 manifold swap. thats what i did and i love teh extra power

M50 on a 528i? is this actually possible? b/c apparently the plastic peice that goes to my ccv has cracked.

Thanks this will help greatly. I will be done this next week when all the parts get here. I will update as to my success.

To cn90: what do you think, can you change CCV and clean ICV (with hose and grommet replacement) without IM removal for your (and mine since I have similar car) car? I want to do that this weekend and wondering if I can do that or need to plann in for next weekend with IM removal...

UPDATE:
Found answer in your post already, did not read well first several times

I forgot to post this but I was able to replace my CCV and vanos a few weekends ago. I was able to do this in 5hrs with a $19.00 tool kit and a few borrowed tools from Advanced auto. The main reason I could do this is because of you guy's and your AWESOME post with pictures. My wife wanted to sell the car but after I did the work myself and saved 2k and showed her how you guys have given me the confidence to do anything, she is on board and has looked through the site for me to do some cosmetic improvements.
Thanks to God and you guys!!!!
1998 528i