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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
Talk about the E83 BMW X3 in this forum!

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  #1  
Old 06-29-2009, 01:41 PM
x3 318is x3 318is is offline
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X3 rear power window not engaged with motor

my 2004 X3 rear driver window got disengaged with my power window motor cable. i got the door panel off and i can feel the motor cable go up and down and somehow can not figure out how to re-engage the motor cable mechanism with the white plastic fixture that holds the window. can anyone pls help? i saw some postings that said they used a regular tie wrap to engage it back but didnt describe how it was done. please help
thanks.
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  #2  
Old 06-29-2009, 02:19 PM
lyxnafis lyxnafis is offline
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Can't re-engage it... had the same problem on my 2006 X3 (18K Kms!!!). The problem was a broken tooth like notch on the white plastic that holds on to the wire. Had to change the mechanism just for the crappy plastic... BMW is aware of the problem...
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  #3  
Old 06-30-2009, 08:20 AM
x3 318is x3 318is is offline
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thanks for your response. i was looking online for the mechanism to be replaced and found the part mentioned below. is this the one mechanism that you replaced? just wanted to make sure that it is before i purchase since the company is charging so much stuff (restocking, shipping, etc) if the part is returned. is there anything i need to be aware of when replacing the mechanism? thanks again!!!

5135-3448251-OE
Window Lift
Left ( Driver's Side ) Rear
Does Not Come With Window Lift Motor
Original Equipment $138.96
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  #4  
Old 06-30-2009, 02:30 PM
lyxnafis lyxnafis is offline
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Yes that's the part I replaced, although, I now see that there is seperate part No for the faulty plastic (part No 51353448645.)
It is no 6 on the page.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=51&fg=10&hl=3
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  #5  
Old 08-02-2009, 06:46 AM
fantrider fantrider is offline
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I just successfully fixed my right rear window on my X3 yesterday after reading this thread. I did not have the time to wait for a plastic $50 part so I fixed it with a zip tie and 5 minute epoxy. I'll post some pics later, I know some people wanted to know how to get the door skin off so I took pics of that also.

I honestly can't believe the cheap piece of plastic broke so easily, now I know plastic gets old and dries out and eventually cracks, but 5 years old and it broke. Underengineered POS if you ask me.
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2009, 07:02 AM
fantrider fantrider is offline
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Okay, going to buy the new piece of plastic as the epoxy didn't hold. Bummer, I was hopeing for a cheap fix, but not this time.
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2009, 11:52 AM
UncleJ UncleJ is offline
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Perhaps an access hatch installed in the door panel would help BMW deal with these ongoing and consistant window regulator problems? The other solution might be to return to a metal fitting and avoid the obviously inferior plastic junk.
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  #8  
Old 09-09-2009, 10:27 AM
ORD2KOA ORD2KOA is offline
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I just had this happen to my '04 (59k miles, CPO) yesterday. The rear passenger window slid down about an inch, but won't close. I don't think we've lowered that window a dozen times since I bought the car 11/07. I've got an appointment at the BMW dealer tomorrow.
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  #9  
Old 09-09-2009, 10:49 AM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ORD2KOA View Post
I don't think we've lowered that window a dozen times since I bought the car 11/07.
My impression is that lack of use can be the cause of regulator failure.

At least, that is what I have found with cars other than BMWs.

Frequent use ensures that sticking points don't develop.

In the case of BMW's plastic parts, it may be that after a number of years they are going to break anyway,
but I would think in many cases it is resistance to the glass movement somewhere that breaks that plastic drive dog.

Might be worth asking your Service Advisor on how long he thinks your new one should last.
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  #10  
Old 09-09-2009, 05:03 PM
ORD2KOA ORD2KOA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercourse View Post
My impression is that lack of use can be the cause of regulator failure...............

Might be worth asking your Service Advisor on how long he thinks your new one should last.
That never occurred to me. Thanks so much. My "service advisor" is mostly useless (Fields BMW opened a Orlando location nearer me, but the service doesn't compare to Winter Park), but I am going to ask her.

Thanks!
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  #11  
Old 09-10-2009, 02:30 PM
ORD2KOA ORD2KOA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supercourse View Post
Might be worth asking your Service Advisor on how long he thinks your new one should last.
Picked up the car a little while ago. They replaced the "rear window regulator." When I asked how long it was expected to last the answer was: "No way to tell. They go out....whenever."
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2009, 10:45 AM
bmwadam bmwadam is offline
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A word on preventative maintanence. I have found that it helps if you lubricate the window channels. When you roll the window down, you can sometimes hear a pop sound as the window disengages the channel. What happens is that the rubber sticks to the window itself. Because the poor design of the BMW regulator, the extra pull can sometimes cause the regulator to fail. If you keep the channel lubricated, the window slides out more easily as it is rolled down. It puts less stress on the regulator. I'm not saying this is going to completely cure the problem, but it sure cant hurt. As for what lubricant to use, just look around. Choice of lubricant depends on your climate, etc. You just need something that is designed for rubber and glass.
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Cursed plastic impailor waterpumps, plastic bleeder screws, m20 timing belts, anti rattle clips, window regulators, CDV valves, digital odometer displays, evaporative emissions circuit, aux cooling fan, sunroof drains, heator cores, door seals, control modules, M62 cam covers and of course GM autos.... (more to come)
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2009, 11:05 AM
noego noego is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwadam View Post
A word on preventative maintanence. I have found that it helps if you lubricate the window channels. When you roll the window down, you can sometimes hear a pop sound as the window disengages the channel. What happens is that the rubber sticks to the window itself. Because the poor design of the BMW regulator, the extra pull can sometimes cause the regulator to fail. If you keep the channel lubricated, the window slides out more easily as it is rolled down. It puts less stress on the regulator. I'm not saying this is going to completely cure the problem, but it sure cant hurt. As for what lubricant to use, just look around. Choice of lubricant depends on your climate, etc. You just need something that is designed for rubber and glass.
this seems like a very good suggestion, but what kind of lubricant do you use and where and how exactly do you go about applying the lube?
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  #14  
Old 09-21-2009, 01:14 PM
kenza kenza is offline
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Guys, does anyone have a picture of the faulty plastic (part No 51353448645)? My rear driver window stopped going up... I would like to see a picture of that crappy plastic before I decide if I will buy a new one or try to figure out how to improve it. Thanks
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  #15  
Old 09-21-2009, 04:56 PM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
this seems like a very good suggestion, but what kind of lubricant do you use and where and how exactly do you go about applying the lube?
Pending a better reply that could come from bmwadam, here's what I do:

- whenever I hear the windows "sticking" momentarily in the fully closed position, I get out the appropriate rubber cleaner/conditioner

- I use Gummi-Pflege, but anything similar would probably work just as well
http://cgi.ebay.ph/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=160343035886

- shake well and run the edge of foam applicactor into the space where the top of the window glass disappears when fully closed

- for good measure, I also apply some to the edge of a wide plastic wallboard knife and run that inside the channel to ensure full distribution

- run your finger tip all along the channel as much as you can to verify it now all feels slick and smooth

- close all the windows, and then try opening them to confirm that they start opening without any tell-tale sticking sound

- depending on climate, and maybe other factors, repeat application may be needed every year, or even every few months

- only takes about 5 minutes when you get good at it
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  #16  
Old 09-21-2009, 05:01 PM
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Mystic1 Mystic1 is offline
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Ours "popped" as the window finished rolling up. I don't think the lube would have helped here as it was when it reached the top and that initial strain of hitting the seal made it go. It goes in Wed for repair under CPO.
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  #17  
Old 09-22-2009, 06:25 AM
kenza kenza is offline
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Same here. Mine died when it hit the top....
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