The official E36 OT Thread!!

Yeah, my t-stat came out in more than one piece, too. Not a big deal.

Originally Posted by E36_Hater433

Also Karl Idk about the e34 but on the e46 those springs go real LOW Post some pics when its done

Actually, for the E34, the drop isn't very much. It'll only be 1.6" lower in the front, .8" lower in the rear. Probably will be a little lower (by a smidge) than the M5 suspension. My friend (who owns the car) didn't want to go super low at this point. The springs are going to be used with adjustable Koni Yellow Sports, and he's buying sways, too, so the car should handle pretty awesome when finished. I'm putting the Turner chip in today, so we'll see how that goes. I'm curious to feel the difference an instantaneous 20hp22/ft.lb. makes.

Originally Posted by Dino1394

went for a test drive
all is good

come home check coolant it there was none ( topped off after i finished job to cold line)

start car again rev engine a couple times
needle starts creeping up instant shut off

Tell me what to doooo

Bleed, bleed, and bleed again! You have air trapped in there. Just let the air out, fill it up to the correct level, drive, check, repeat... Eventually it will stop going down.

+ 1 ^

Make sure your heat is on high when you bleed it.

Steve

Originally Posted by ZeGerman

Bleed, bleed, and bleed again! You have air trapped in there. Just let the air out, fill it up to the correct level, drive, check, repeat... Eventually it will stop going down.

+1 I believe I spent about 40 minutes bleeding the first M3. I have no idea how that much air got it, but damn it took forever..

Originally Posted by ZeGerman

Bleed, bleed, and bleed again! You have air trapped in there. Just let the air out, fill it up to the correct level, drive, check, repeat... Eventually it will stop going down.

Karl to the rescue!

I read the bleeding procedure so many times but it seems that my car would need to be cold (or does it not matter as long as i dont burn myself?

Just to clarify:

Start car

crank heat

take off expansion tank cap and open bleed screw

poor coolant till it starts coming out of bleed screw

place cap back on expansion tank
?

Raise front of car 8-10 inches, start car, heat on full blast hot, remove bleeder screw, remove rad cap, massage top rad hose, keep topping off until bubbles stop.

Repeat twice. (At least).

Also, the car does not need to be cold to bleed it, just be careful not to burn yourself. When I bled mine, I had steam coming out of the bleeder screw, which is what you want.

had my mom sit in the car to rev and keep watch off the needle

i told her where to keep the rpms

she WOTS the car screams in my face I start screaming MOM!!!!!! then she was OHHH! then the rpms stayed at 2


anyways i poured and poured bubbles started comming out till i stopped
i kept pouring and had to dodge coolant coming at face due to the fan flinging it everywhere

now the car isnt overheating and but i heat is blowing cold air until the car is reved high

and the coolant was way too full

while writing this i went to check it again now the coolant went down
and is now sitting 3/4 of the tank (a little higher than the cold mark)

does this sound about right? and continue bleeding?

If your heater still isn't blowing hot, you still have air trapped in there even despite the fact that it's at the 3/4 mark. So yeah, you'll have to continue bleeding until the heater blows hot and the coolant stops going down. Sounds like you're making progress, though.

Also, you don't need to rev the motor at all. Idling is fine.

On another note, I WANT:

Meh, I've never been an enormous fan of the MX5s. I'm sure they're fun is shyt to drive, I would just want something a little more not a Mazda (unless it had a rotary engine) if I were going to get a roadster.

Just bled the system again

bubbles came out of the screw

then a steady flow of coolant started coming out and flying everywhere heat was blowing out hot air (It was burning hot when i first bled but it is still hot now)

guess im good now?

I think they have pretty classic styling. No, they aren't going to win any beauty contests, but I think they're fairly handsome. And of course, any Miata I'd own would have the convertible top removed and a hardtop bolted on.

Originally Posted by Dino1394

Just bled the system again

bubbles came out of the screw

then a steady flow of coolant started coming out and flying everywhere heat was blowing out hot air (It was burning hot when i first bled but it is still hot now)

guess im good now?

Just keep checking it regularly until the coolant level stops going down. Sounds like you have enough coolant in there now to prevent the car from overheating, so that's good. When I did mine, I was able to get it bled pretty easily, but I did keep checking it for days afterward to see if the level dropped.

Originally Posted by ZeGerman

Just keep checking it regularly until the coolant level stops going down. Sounds like you have enough coolant in there now to prevent the car from overheating, so that's good. When I did mine, I was able to get it bled pretty easily, but I did keep checking it for days afterward to see if the level dropped.

yeah im gonna test drive it again and check after

the coolant went back to the 3/4 after bleeding as it was the first time

ill probably check it before each drive from paranoia

If I were going to have a roadster I would want something classic like an old Lotus or Jag.

I got a truck today. It has a flip switch ignition, push button start, toggle switch security system, and no reverse gear. Guess how much I paid.

I will start the bidding at $1, American.

3 rolls of toilet paper and a toothbrush

Originally Posted by ZeGerman

If your heater still isn't blowing hot, you still have air trapped in there even despite the fact that it's at the 3/4 mark. So yeah, you'll have to continue bleeding until the heater blows hot and the coolant stops going down. Sounds like you're making progress, though.

Also, you don't need to rev the motor at all. Idling is fine.

On another note, I WANT:

You WANT........the most girly car ever made?

Originally Posted by drive by72

I got a truck today. It has a flip switch ignition, push button start, toggle switch security system, and no reverse gear. Guess how much I paid.

$350.

Ok so I got a tail light failure on the OBC. Pulled the bulb and both filaments are still intact. Switched it to the other taillight and it is fine. Something with the tail light? It's really pissing me off.

Connections TO the bulb. Clean the socket, check and clean the harness plug. If that doesn't fix it, start tracing the wire over the wheel well. You may have the dreaded loom failure in the making.

Originally Posted by hornhospital

Connections TO the bulb. Clean the socket, check and clean the harness plug. If that doesn't fix it, start tracing the wire over the wheel well. You may have the dreaded loom failure in the making.

Loom failure? Go on...

Chad you paid 0 for the truck.


ZERO!

Originally Posted by TechieTechie

New with 9k posts? What did you do, hijack Ken's posts while he was sleeping?

no, just posts random stuff that nobody reads anyway...

Originally Posted by hornhospital

Franklyn, ya ever hear the saying "hell hath no fury like a woman scorned"? You never know when Amber might pop in here, and then LOOK OUT!

(FYI, she DOES read the forum from time to time).

ooooohhh......better look out...

Originally Posted by Dino1394

i cant the t-stat out of the head

and its breaking on me -_- HELP!!!

i always like to get a running start when doing work like this.

and a big hammer makes it easier...




df

Originally Posted by Los

Loom failure? Go on...

Where the insulation gets worn off the wires inside the wiring loom going over the wheel well. I KNOW you've read about it before.