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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #65451  
Old 09-09-2012, 08:27 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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ok guys, i have decided to go ahead and buy into a product that looks 'too good to be true'. fortunately i have some work that i can practice on to see how good it works and can give an accurate review on.

a little history on the scenario.

older early 80's gm diesel van. thermostat housing/crossover pipe goes across the front it the intake, but seperate from the intake.

the stat housing is held on by 3 bolts. steel + aluminum + lots of time = 2 of 3 bolts broken. drilled the one out fine, all the way through (no blind holes on the pipe), went to do the other bolt and broke the drill bit.

tried to drill it through from the other side, and no room to do so, as the channel obstructs from the back. tried every trick in the book i knew of to try to get this out.

no dice.

thinking i may have to cut a slice in the aluminum to make it a little easier to get out, but then i would have to get the aluminum repaired. cost prohibitive.

getting another part has yeilded no results since *everyone* onthe diesel forums that has one of these monsters is looking to find the exact same part ofr the exact same reason.

think coupe door panels, guys.

so, in my infinite searches over teh interwebs, where everyone is handsome, nice teeth, and can lift an m54 without a hoist, (ok, chip can....) i came across this product.

http://durafix.com/

it looks to be what would work, given i have no other (affordable) alternative at this point.

i also came across another product, but that will be for another time.


i should have this stuff in the next few weeks.

we shall see....



if this stuff works as well as it is claimed, the making the adapter plates and intake for the supercharger would be lighter as i could use aluminum.


to be continued...
df
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  #65452  
Old 09-09-2012, 08:40 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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oh, yeah, and i have been meaning to ask....

does anyone have a broken headlight?? i am in the process of making some angel eyes and need a donor to get the diameter correct.

i also need to confirm the high and low beams are the same diameter as well, so if i could get both that would be great.

i'm probably going to buy a set of glass units, but that will be to use for the install. maybe. depends.


heck, if you have a set of headlights that are cheap enough i'll consider them as well.


lmk, k??



df
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  #65453  
Old 09-09-2012, 09:00 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is online now
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I have two or three sets of headlights!

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  #65454  
Old 09-09-2012, 09:43 PM
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Maddie has developed a mysterious coolant leak. It's worrying me.
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  #65455  
Old 09-09-2012, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooby View Post
Maddie has developed a mysterious coolant leak. It's worrying me.
Pressure tester, you'll find it in 5 minutes.

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  #65456  
Old 09-09-2012, 10:26 PM
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drive by72 drive by72 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooby View Post
Maddie has developed a mysterious coolant leak. It's worrying me.
Check the radiator drain plug. Mine began leaking there, turns out the o-ring cracked and made itself useless.
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  #65457  
Old 09-10-2012, 12:00 AM
Ozzy1989 Ozzy1989 is offline
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Hey everyone im new here so sory if im posting in the rong thread...

Anyway i have a 96 323i auto and the gearbox ( auto ) keeps sliping changing between 1st and 2nd gear ie if im driving like a nana it will try to change around 2000rpm and the revs go up to 3000rpm before it goes into gear like a manual with a stuffed cluth would, it has no loss of power or anything and doesnt slip in gear only when changing and it does it when its cold and hot....

Any ideas btw this is my first bmw
  #65458  
Old 09-10-2012, 12:22 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
so, in my infinite searches over teh interwebs, where everyone is handsome, nice teeth, and can lift an m54 without a hoist, (ok, chip can....) i came across this product.

http://durafix.com/

{snippage}


if this stuff works as well as it is claimed, the making the adapter plates and intake for the supercharger would be lighter as i could use aluminum.


to be continued...
df
Hate to burst your bubble, but don't believe everything you see/read about that stuff. There are many products on the market that claim the same qualities (Alumiweld is another one). These things work (after a fashion) on THIN materials, but like any attempt to weld heavy cross-section aluminum parts, you will need a LOT of heat. It's not the aluminum solder (what that actually is) you have to get so hot....it's the base metal. If the base metal is thin, you can get it hot enough pretty quickly. If it's a cast manifold (or blower housing) you'll spend a tremendous amount of time just trying to get it hot enough for the welding metal to flow. Been there, done that, bought a "From now on I'll use a TIG torch" Tee shirt.
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  #65459  
Old 09-10-2012, 09:20 AM
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E36 Phantom E36 Phantom is offline
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Well, yesterday was fairly productive since I only got to work in the evening. Drained the coolant, pulled the tstat out of the housing to prep for the sealant, rearranged the coolant hoses so I could flush the system tonight, filled oil with 1.5 qts ATF, and got the plugs, coils, and all the intake piping back in place. It's now off the jack stands and ready for the flush tomorrow.

Probably will flush and rearrange the hoses and do a baseline warm compression test tonight, and do the sealant Tuesday and drive it around for a while. May drive it around more Wed night if the bypass arrangement holds, and I'll take a new compression reading and put in new plugs. Thurs will be second oil change, second coolant flush, new tstat and water pump, and pulling the mani. Friday will be putting the mani back on with all new gaskets along the intake path.

Hold me to that schedule, Bimmerfest. I hope it's doable.

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You're a derbanana
  #65460  
Old 09-10-2012, 09:53 AM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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I need more coffee just reading that to do list Chad...

to the kitchen for Ice Coffee!
  #65461  
Old 09-10-2012, 09:58 AM
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Kdoherty Kdoherty is offline
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okay, so I may have messed up my shifter bushings or linkage. I left the car parked facing downhill in reverse with the park brake on, when i drove it this morning the shifter was leaning over to fifth and being weird. Then I reparked, left it in 1st, came back and it was realigned. but not too springy from N to 5 so me thinks that's getting piled on the to-do
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Drop the clutch, proceed and ain't care.
  • '06 325xi 6MT
  #65462  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:15 AM
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cj.surr cj.surr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdoherty View Post
okay, so I may have messed up my shifter bushings or linkage. I left the car parked facing downhill in reverse with the park brake on, when i drove it this morning the shifter was leaning over to fifth and being weird. Then I reparked, left it in 1st, came back and it was realigned. but not too springy from N to 5 so me thinks that's getting piled on the to-do
Very strange. I would think transmission bushings first, though.
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  #65463  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:43 AM
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jayjaya29 jayjaya29 is online now
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Detents could be on their way out too...that requires dropping the tranny.
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  #65464  
Old 09-10-2012, 10:53 AM
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B_Rad_M3 B_Rad_M3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayjaya29 View Post
Detents could be on their way out too...that requires dropping the tranny.
Quick google and sounds like the issue I have in my car, shifted rests where 5th gear is...

Kenny what year is your car? I have a 96!!!
  #65465  
Old 09-10-2012, 11:45 AM
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Kdoherty Kdoherty is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad31late View Post
Quick google and sounds like the issue I have in my car, shifted rests where 5th gear is...

Kenny what year is your car? I have a 96!!!
mine is also a 96. it corrected itself but there is almost no spring tension against the shifter on the right side, only on the 1/2 side.
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Quote:
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Drop the clutch, proceed and ain't care.
  • '06 325xi 6MT
  #65466  
Old 09-10-2012, 11:54 AM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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mine does this as well. no spring pressue when going into 5th. however plenty of it on the other side towards 1st.
  #65467  
Old 09-10-2012, 11:57 AM
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B_Rad_M3 B_Rad_M3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kdoherty View Post
mine is also a 96. it corrected itself but there is almost no spring tension against the shifter on the right side, only on the 1/2 side.
mine is like that too...

been meaning to fix it but the new car has me tied up...
  #65468  
Old 09-10-2012, 11:58 AM
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Kdoherty Kdoherty is offline
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I don't plan on having the transmission out but once, so ill fix it when it comes time for the clutch,flywheel,slave bidness.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cj.surr View Post
Drop the clutch, proceed and ain't care.
  • '06 325xi 6MT
  #65469  
Old 09-10-2012, 12:06 PM
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TechieTechie TechieTechie is offline
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Oh my...for the subframe reinforcement on teh touring, they have to strip out the entire interior rear of the car from the c pillar back, weld those suckers into place (both from inside AND outside), then reassemble the car. That's like 10 hours of labor. I thought a lot of this could be piggybacked onto the subframe drop (and welded from the outside), but it's a whoooooooooooole other animal. Since I got the 2001, the subframe tears are very unusual unless you track the car (In 2000s and 1999s, the tears were also seen in daily drivers) Instructions to fix it: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/imag...nforcement.pdf

I am waiting for the final estimate (which he is gonna break out the subframe reinforcment from the rest of the repairs) but given it's probably $800 in labor ALONE for the subframe reinforcement, now I'm thinking it could be better used buying an e36 track car should I decide to continue on with heavy duty driving....rather than pouring tons of track monies into the wagon.

Thoughts?
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Last edited by TechieTechie; 09-10-2012 at 12:31 PM.
  #65470  
Old 09-10-2012, 12:34 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Makes sense to me. Alternatively, you could remove the necessary interior bits yourself and save on labor that way.
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  #65471  
Old 09-10-2012, 01:30 PM
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BMRfanatic BMRfanatic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Makes sense to me. Alternatively, you could remove the necessary interior bits yourself and save on labor that way.
This.

Wish I could help strip the interior, it would've fun.

Unless le weeknds




Jen dont kill me but...


http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1890804
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Last edited by BMRfanatic; 09-10-2012 at 01:39 PM.
  #65472  
Old 09-10-2012, 02:47 PM
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TechieTechie TechieTechie is offline
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Quote:
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Thanks...but this is the one that was stripped to the shell and now put back together
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  #65473  
Old 09-10-2012, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
Makes sense to me. Alternatively, you could remove the necessary interior bits yourself and save on labor that way.
Thanks..it's a great idea, but unfortunately, it's already at the shop and track day is soon upon me. So Jen's lack of planning bites her in the butt again (particularly since poor CJ just took apart the freaking trunk for the RSMs). So it's either all or nuttin'

But given I think I'll be on the track like maybe 1 or 2 hours the whole weekend, hopefully that won't kill the darn car. Of course, with my luck, it might
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  #65474  
Old 09-10-2012, 05:07 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Hate to burst your bubble, but don't believe everything you see/read about that stuff. There are many products on the market that claim the same qualities (Alumiweld is another one). These things work (after a fashion) on THIN materials, but like any attempt to weld heavy cross-section aluminum parts, you will need a LOT of heat. It's not the aluminum solder (what that actually is) you have to get so hot....it's the base metal. If the base metal is thin, you can get it hot enough pretty quickly. If it's a cast manifold (or blower housing) you'll spend a tremendous amount of time just trying to get it hot enough for the welding metal to flow. Been there, done that, bought a "From now on I'll use a TIG torch" Tee shirt.
well i'm not gonna be building a bridge or anything, and the initial plans are for a small 'ear' portion of the housing. sorta like a 'D' with a '<' section taken out to expose the threaded hole to a 'C' to extract the broken threads. then weld/aluminum solder these parts together.

again, if it works, then great!! if not, it can't get any more broken than it already is...

if it works, then i will try to use in on some thinner stock, like 1/8" or so. the thickest part would be closer to 1/4", but i can heat that pretty evenly. just not sure of the working time with this material, but will try it and report back.


not familiar with tig, but it looks to be the best way to weld aluminum. however, i do not think that i will be shelling out the amount of money these units cost. not for a little project like this.


regardless, i will try to remeber to take pics...




df
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  #65475  
Old 09-10-2012, 05:27 PM
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TheFinanceGuy TheFinanceGuy is offline
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I'm torn about buying angle eyes. Can't decide if I should spend the $200 or not.
I'm almost caught up on maintenance items. Can't decide if it's worth it for the looks or not.

Ugh!
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