The official E36 OT Thread!!

Originally Posted by crisscross

At least I'm no the only one with the the wifey 30

Wifey 30 : lulz

Ugh, this SRS light is going to drive me to ruin.

Quick Recap: About 6 months after I swapped my steering wheel (with no SRS light) and 3 months after I swapped in the E46 seats (with no SRS light), the light randomly tripped one day while I was driving to work.

Pulled the codes, got the Driver's and Passenger's Seat Belt switches at the exact same time. I did the "resistor fix" that tricks the car into thinking the switches are sending the proper resistance. That turned the light off for about 20 minutes, then it threw a light but wouldn't throw a code. I replace the airbag module and paid my shop to install it and recode it, which showed me it was throwing code 01-02, something about the driver's contact ring. Pulled the wheel, cleaned the ring, reinstalled and the light went off for about 40 minutes, then came back.

I figured maybe the seat belt switch codes were due to the old SRS module on its way out, so I undid the resistor fix. Nope, threw both codes again, and the passenger occupancy sensor, BUT not the driver's firing circuit. I redid the fix, cleared the codes, and they went away... for about 5 minutes. Then the firing circuit one came back.

New News:
I'm completely fed up with trying to fix it completely, and I can't just throw good money after bad down this rabbit hole, AND I'm due for inspection next month, so its time to get dirty.

I did this fix: http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93207

Which gets the light off and will make driving a little more peaceful, but it doesn't turn the light on when the key is in position 2, which is what needs to happen to pass inspection. Does anyone have an idears about how to trick the system to do its diagnostic cycle?

I have a code reader, so if I absolutely have to I think I can get a sticker on it by asking my inspection place to kindly look the other direction while I clear the code, and then hope it doesn't come back on while he's pulling it into the shop (likely with my luck).

Another option is just to replace the contact ring, but I'm hesitant because 1.) The one in there is less than a year old, 2.) its expensive, 3.) I don't trust this thing when it says there is a fault in one particular place any more, all it does is jump around to to the next thing after I fix one...

...and people wonder why I drink...

There's a shop near me that usually only has one guy working so he was you sit in the car and do all the lights, I for my 318 inspected with an SRS light there for two years..... Just mentioning it because I know you pass my way every once in a while.

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Originally Posted by miles_trail

so he was you sit in the car

wat.

Originally Posted by crisscross

At least I'm no the only one with the the wifey 30

Originally Posted by SlimKlim

wat.

+1

Joey, what about a little switch and controller that lets the light turn on with key on, but turn off after a delay.

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Originally Posted by E36 Phantom

Joey, what about a little switch and controller that lets the light turn on with key on, but turn off after a delay.

I think you're on to something here, let me grab a pic of my current little workaround:



I just threw this in there to see if it would work, figured it'd be a lot easier just to tape over the insulation I scraped off instead of re-soldering them.

Here are the wires I'm actually jumping:



I was hoping that the wiring diagram would give me some clues and I could snip or bridge something to make it come on during the diagnostic check but go off afterwards. But what if, as you suggest, I stick something in my little wire jump that delays giving power from the violet/green wire to the blue/black for 20 or 30 seconds? I just wouldn't even know what to look for at radio shack.

EDIT: Thank you google: http://www.wolstentech.com/products/...delayrelay.php

Sounds like I could get a positive switching version of one of those things, set the delay to 30 seconds, ground the relay where the control module is grounded, use the vi/grn as the trigger and the blue/black would be the output. I'd just have to go find a 12V supply for the relay somewhere, could I piggyback off of one of the center console light things? (which haven't worked in my car for like, ever)

I clocked in today at just over 200. Still need to drop some weight, as I'm not very tall -- 5'9" or so.


My folks gave me the rundown on Los' car. Turns out my cat likes to guard it or something. Maybe there's mice inside it? Should be safe where it is, all covered up.

Joey, what you're looking for is an inductor. It resists change in current, so on power up it will delay power and after cutoff will supply power. I'm not sure how big you need, but you'll need to be careful. Inductors are no joke dangerous.

Im so over this winter

Originally Posted by petriej

I clocked in today at just over 200. Still need to drop some weight, as I'm not very tall -- 5'9" or so.


My folks gave me the rundown on Los' car. Turns out my cat likes to guard it or something. Maybe there's mice inside it? Should be safe where it is, all covered up.

Joey, what you're looking for is an inductor. It resists change in current, so on power up it will delay power and after cutoff will supply power. I'm not sure how big you need, but you'll need to be careful. Inductors are no joke dangerous.

The theory is correct but for the seconds long delay he needs you'd need one the size of the car.

Originally Posted by drive by72

Im so over this winter

Yeah, our high this week is supposed to be today's -2 *F.

Originally Posted by drive by72

Im so over this winter

Dude, me too.



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Originally Posted by dc_wright

The theory is correct but for the seconds long delay he needs you'd need one the size of the car.

Gotcha. My napkin math was magnitudes off, then. Perhaps a more complex solution? Or maybe fixing the real problem? Find a friend with the equipment to reset? Great time to join the BMW CCA.

But, you could get a small switch and controller, and program the controller to allow pass through until it gets a pulse from the ignition wire, and then cut power to the light after like 2-3 seconds.

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Circuit to do it isn't too complex. I can sketch something up but it will be later in the week due to workload at work.

Why not just jump the SRS light from another light, light the ABS light... both would turn on, then turn off at the same time.

right?

Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy

Why not just jump the SRS light from another light, light the ABS light... both would turn on, then turn off at the same time.

right?

All of us sitting here wracking our brains with circuitry and such.....that seems so much more simple and elegant. Feel awfully silly now.

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Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy

Why not just jump the SRS light from another light, light the ABS light... both would turn on, then turn off at the same time.

right?

This could work, the only possible gotcha is they might be half the brightness depending on what's driving them.

but to pass inspection, it just needs to be light... They can't fail you because the light isn't bright enough

Joey, are you sure that fails inspection? In pa that's classified as a secondary function so it doesn't matter if it's on.

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Originally Posted by FenderBender

Joey, are you sure that fails inspection? In pa that's classified as a secondary function so it doesn't matter if it's on.

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psh in mass, if the vehicle is more than 10 years old as long as it has all its exterior lights and tires it passes. My CEL has been burned out since I bought the dang thing and I've passed state insp. every time.

Originally Posted by petriej

Gotcha. My napkin math was magnitudes off, then. Perhaps a more complex solution? Or maybe fixing the real problem? Find a friend with the equipment to reset? Great time to join the BMW CCA.

I have an SRS tool, resetting is no problem, it just comes back. I'm all for fixing the real source of the problem, but I'm not in the mood to drop $220 on a slip ring that might fix it, I've already got $250 in the new control module. If I thought the slip ring would be a definitive fix I'd do it, but every time I fix one thing it jumps to the next, seat belt switch, occ sensor, control module, slip ring, etc.

Originally Posted by E36 Phantom

But, you could get a small switch and controller, and program the controller to allow pass through until it gets a pulse from the ignition wire, and then cut power to the light after like 2-3 seconds.

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Yeah, I think the time delay relay might be a better solution, if not cheaper. The light turns on when it has no power, and off when it has a 12v supply, so right now I'm tricking the light into turning off all the time, adding the time delay would get it to mimic the right behavior.

Originally Posted by TheFinanceGuy

Why not just jump the SRS light from another light, light the ABS light... both would turn on, then turn off at the same time.

right?

Yeah, that would probably work too. Hmmm.

Originally Posted by FenderBender

Joey, are you sure that fails inspection? In pa that's classified as a secondary function so it doesn't matter if it's on.

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Yeah it will fail in VA if it doesn't go off after starting.

Gotta love upstate ny salt!

And an e36 rear bumper ALMOST fits in the passenger compartment

V1 performed as advertised on the trip home. I got half mile notice on a statie shooting ka band in the opposite direction from the other side of a concrete overpass! Would have been invisible otherwise. Pretty incredible.

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Originally Posted by cj.surr

Gotta love upstate ny salt!

And an e36 rear bumper ALMOST fits in the passenger compartment

V1 performed as advertised on the trip home. I got half mile notice on a statie shooting ka band in the opposite direction from the other side of a concrete overpass! Would have been invisible otherwise. Pretty incredible.

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is your nose panel busted in?

Yep. Been saving all nice body panels for the project e36.

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Anyone remember a forum member with the username C. Sean Watts? It was his car that I bought.