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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #76001  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:36 PM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechieTechie View Post
Hey, first off, don't blame the gender. That pisses me off to no degree /Rant/

Did they have the oil changed professionally? I've read stories where Valvoline, etc have not put the cap back on correctly and resulted in significant oil leakage. But ya think there would be a puddle where she normally parks and/or the oil light would have illuminated.

Also, did she run over something and punctured a line or cracked the oil pan?

Sorry your parents have to go thru it...it sucks.
Was kinda sarcasm sorry if I offended....I do the maintenance stuff period I run Amsoil. AND If lights come on I NEVER get told so as Ze said.....it wouldn't surprise me if she didn't notice it. She's a pretty bad driver. Sorry if I offended just stinks really hope the block didn't seize. Just mad this isn't the first car she has toasted... still trying to research all possibilities for as to how it lost that much oil...
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  #76002  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:41 PM
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Gooby Gooby is offline
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Calling Karl, Joey, and anyone else with HPDE experience.

I'm currently on the fence on my next purchase. I don't know whether to buy aftermarket brake ducts or better pads like PFC-08's or Hawk Blues. What would be better for a ~ 3000 lb car with street tires I'm asking. I'm currently on shiitty cheap street pads that fade way too quickly and no brake cooling whatsoever so both will yield an improvement obviously.

I guess my question is, if you were in my shoes would you do ducts, pads, or neither?
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  #76003  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:49 PM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TechieTechie View Post
I know...I worries that the rope would be too 'in your face'. I do plan on planting some hedges between my yard and the path (as it will also help stop some of the neighbor's 10 gazzillion leaves from coming into my yard)...which will help 'push' people into using the path. Should get better, hopefully, too, when I have das garage.
Hedges will be a great solution for the problem next year, but for now you should at lease get a cover.
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  #76004  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:50 PM
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cj.surr cj.surr is online now
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If you have the money for pads, do those. Then do ghetto DIY ducts for cheapo.
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  #76005  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:50 PM
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TechieTechie TechieTechie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooby View Post
Calling Karl, Joey, and anyone else with HPDE experience.

I'm currently on the fence on my next purchase. I don't know whether to buy aftermarket brake ducts or better pads like PFC-08's or Hawk Blues. What would be better for a ~ 3000 lb car with street tires I'm asking. I'm currently on shiitty cheap street pads that fade way too quickly and no brake cooling whatsoever so both will yield an improvement obviously.

I guess my question is, if you were in my shoes would you do ducts, pads, or neither?
I'd say pads, first, then ducts. Cool brakes don't mean squat if you don't have good pads. Also, I hate to advise jumping ship, but I really like bimmerforums race forum. Very nice peeps, not at all condensing, and they provided great advice to help me get ready for my first HDPE.
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  #76006  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:08 PM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Well this just sucks. http://bmw.justanswer.com/uploads/Au...erator0001.pdf
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1993 318IS-Totaled
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  #76007  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:21 PM
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BMRfanatic BMRfanatic is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmer claus View Post
Link doesnt work but I saw it said oil separator


does the e60 530 have the m54 engine?

If so the engine is hydrolocked.

It happens when the CCV is clogged up and it sends oil into the intake till it fills up the cylinder to the point the car cant even run.


I bet if you take out the spark plugs theyll be drenched


I forgot how to fix the issue though
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  #76008  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:22 PM
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Mr Gusta Mr Gusta is offline
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  #76009  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:25 PM
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bimmer claus bimmer claus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino1394 View Post
Link doesnt work but I saw it said oil separator


does the e60 530 have the m54 engine?

If so the engine is hydrolocked.

It happens when the CCV is clogged up and it sends oil into the intake till it fills up the cylinder to the point the car cant even run.


I bet if you take out the spark plugs theyll be drenched


I forgot how to fix the issue though
CCV was stuck open oil dumped through the intake. Cylinders are flooded with oil most likely as is the intake. Lines are horribly designed for the Vent system and freeze due to moisture this causes pressure which can either blow oil straight through the intake. ( oil running out my exhaust) or can blow the VC /VCG....I really hope i can just clear the oil out by pulling the plugs.... Whole fix is looking like 450-500$
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  #76010  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:26 PM
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dc_wright dc_wright is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooby View Post
Calling Karl, Joey, and anyone else with HPDE experience.

I'm currently on the fence on my next purchase. I don't know whether to buy aftermarket brake ducts or better pads like PFC-08's or Hawk Blues. What would be better for a ~ 3000 lb car with street tires I'm asking. I'm currently on shiitty cheap street pads that fade way too quickly and no brake cooling whatsoever so both will yield an improvement obviously.

I guess my question is, if you were in my shoes would you do ducts, pads, or neither?
If by street tires you mean some 800 tread wear, 100K mileage, rock hard all seasons, then I'd say good tires first, then brake pads. Bad tires means earlier, harder braking into the turns which adds to the load on the brake system. If you get really good pads and you run with crummy tires, you're going to just be into ABS activation instead of brake fade and you'll still be "slow".
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  #76011  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:29 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is online now
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My e30 studders and misses if I floor it from idle.

Thoughts?

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  #76012  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:39 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooby View Post
Calling Karl, Joey, and anyone else with HPDE experience.

I'm currently on the fence on my next purchase. I don't know whether to buy aftermarket brake ducts or better pads like PFC-08's or Hawk Blues. What would be better for a ~ 3000 lb car with street tires I'm asking. I'm currently on shiitty cheap street pads that fade way too quickly and no brake cooling whatsoever so both will yield an improvement obviously.

I guess my question is, if you were in my shoes would you do ducts, pads, or neither?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
If by street tires you mean some 800 tread wear, 100K mileage, rock hard all seasons, then I'd say good tires first, then brake pads. Bad tires means earlier, harder braking into the turns which adds to the load on the brake system. If you get really good pads and you run with crummy tires, you're going to just be into ABS activation instead of brake fade and you'll still be "slow".
I kind of agree with Don, but feel that if you can only afford to buy ONE item right now (ducts, pads, or tires), I'd definitely buy the nicer pads first. My reasoning is that with good pads, you'll be fine without aftermarket ducts for HPDE stuff. Only time you'd want ducts would be if you were planning on doing actual racing, and not 25 minutes of 8/10ths driving typically associated with HPDE sessions. As for the pads vs. tires debate, I'd get pads over tires because if you put gummy tires on your car but still have cheapo pads, you're definitely still going to overheat the pads, get fade, and then have to get off the track because your car won't brake. If you have good pads but are still on street tires, yes, you will get into the ABS sooner, and still be slower in general, but you can adjust your driving style to manage the tires, and the tires will at least be usable (whereas faded pads are completely unusable). There isn't anywhere near as big of a performance dropoff with using street tires on a track as compared to using street pads on a track. In fact, a number of BMWCCA instructors I've spoken with prefer that their students start out with regular street tires before moving into max performance summer tires or some crazy r-compound gumball. It keeps the grip threshold down, so you can learn how your car reacts at slightly lower speeds.

Speaking of brakes, I just picked up this last night. Half-price used Motive brake bleeder! You'll certainly want to flush your brake system annually if you're going to spend any time on a track.

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Last edited by ZeGerman; 02-10-2013 at 01:47 PM.
  #76013  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:41 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
My e30 studders and misses if I floor it from idle.

Thoughts?

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Same as always...stumble off-idle is 95% of the time = a vacuum leak problem.
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HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 02-10-2013 at 01:43 PM.
  #76014  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:45 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Same as always...stumble off-idle is 95% of the time = a vacuum leak problem.
I smoke tested it Friday. Found a tiny tiny leak somewhere around the tb to manifold, and there was smoke around the distributor. Nothing to be concerned about imo.

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  #76015  
Old 02-10-2013, 01:54 PM
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Gooby Gooby is offline
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Location: Streetz of B'
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
If by street tires you mean some 800 tread wear, 100K mileage, rock hard all seasons, then I'd say good tires first, then brake pads. Bad tires means earlier, harder braking into the turns which adds to the load on the brake system. If you get really good pads and you run with crummy tires, you're going to just be into ABS activation instead of brake fade and you'll still be "slow".
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
I kind of agree with Don, but feel that if you can only afford to buy ONE item right now (ducts, pads, or tires), I'd definitely buy the nicer pads first. My reasoning is that with good pads, you'll be fine without aftermarket ducts for HPDE stuff. Only time you'd want ducts would be if you were planning on doing actual racing, and not 25 minutes of 8/10ths driving typically associated with HPDE sessions. As for the pads vs. tires debate, I'd get pads over tires because if you put gummy tires on your car but still have cheapo pads, you're definitely still going to overheat the pads, get fade, and then have to get off the track because your car won't brake. If you have good pads but are still on street tires, yes, you will get into the ABS sooner, and still be slower in general, but you can adjust your driving style to manage the tires, and the tires will at least be usable (whereas faded pads are completely unusable). There isn't anywhere near as big of a performance dropoff with using street tires on a track as compared to using street pads on a track. In fact, a number of BMWCCA instructors I've spoken with prefer that their students start out with regular street tires before moving into max performance summer tires or some crazy r-compound gumball. It keeps the grip threshold down, so you can learn how your car reacts at slightly lower speeds.

Speaking of brakes, I just picked up this last night. Half-price used Motive brake bleeder! You'll certainly want to flush your brake system annually if you're going to spend any time on a track.

I probably should of been more specific lol. By street tires I mean not R-Comps. I'm on NT05's.

And I just ended up picking a set of HP+ pads from a friend. He ran them back when he was a beginner and he said he liked them a lot.
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  #76016  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:00 PM
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B1MM3R B1MM3R is offline
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Location: Roanoke, VA
 
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Omfgosh....Ashlin car running a little funny so unplugged MAF and cleaned it. Forgot to plug back in and drove for a second and then Trans failsafe prog. Warning came on....realized forgot to plug back in (so plugged it in) and drove up road...its shifting really hard now!?!? Never ever have had issues with Tranny...any suggestions? Disconnect battery maybe? Could this all be related? FML if Tranny going out..no Wayyyy all the sudden the Tranny would go out like that tho right????
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E30 87 325e DD
  #76017  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:04 PM
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jonesin jonesin is online now
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Jesse, unplug the battery and wait 30 min.

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  #76018  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:13 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooby View Post
I probably should of been more specific lol. By street tires I mean not R-Comps. I'm on NT05's.

And I just ended up picking a set of HP+ pads from a friend. He ran them back when he was a beginner and he said he liked them a lot.
I have those, awesome bite, terrible sound.

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  #76019  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:34 PM
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B1MM3R B1MM3R is offline
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Location: Roanoke, VA
 
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Ok Ed doing that now, related when maf unplugged car runs/idles smooth, when plugged it idles bad...maf bad right?

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Jesse
"Cassie"///Mpowered 93 318is 5speed (95 m3 swap).Vaders..Bavauto short shifter..dinan cat back..sways..3.23lsd..tms chip..staggered dsII's...BCracing coilovers..F&R strut tower bar...M3 brakes..x-brace..AFE CAI
2007 X5 3.0si (Wifes)
E30 87 325e DD
  #76020  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:39 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is online now
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No. My buddies M3 had the same issue. Turned out to be a few bad coils.

It could be your maf though, just a thought.

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  #76021  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:43 PM
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B1MM3R B1MM3R is offline
Jesse Moon Bayne
Location: Roanoke, VA
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
No. My buddies M3 had the same issue. Turned out to be a few bad coils.

It could be your maf though, just a thought.

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But no issue when maf unplugged, wouldn't that rule out coils? Also is this too good to be true?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5WK96132-136...70217c&vxp=mtr
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Jesse
"Cassie"///Mpowered 93 318is 5speed (95 m3 swap).Vaders..Bavauto short shifter..dinan cat back..sways..3.23lsd..tms chip..staggered dsII's...BCracing coilovers..F&R strut tower bar...M3 brakes..x-brace..AFE CAI
2007 X5 3.0si (Wifes)
E30 87 325e DD
  #76022  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:44 PM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1MM3R View Post
Ok Ed doing that now, related when maf unplugged car runs/idles smooth, when plugged it idles bad...maf bad right?
A vacuum leak would do the same thing.
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  #76023  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:47 PM
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FenderBender FenderBender is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1MM3R View Post
But no issue when maf unplugged, wouldn't that rule out coils? Also is this too good to be true?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5WK96132-136...70217c&vxp=mtr
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His idled smooth with maf unplugged then rough with it plugged in. Sounds strange but I checked his coils and one was arching and some more were missing. Junk bav auto coils.

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  #76024  
Old 02-10-2013, 02:51 PM
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B1MM3R B1MM3R is offline
Jesse Moon Bayne
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Cel read miss fire on all cylinders

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Jesse
"Cassie"///Mpowered 93 318is 5speed (95 m3 swap).Vaders..Bavauto short shifter..dinan cat back..sways..3.23lsd..tms chip..staggered dsII's...BCracing coilovers..F&R strut tower bar...M3 brakes..x-brace..AFE CAI
2007 X5 3.0si (Wifes)
E30 87 325e DD
  #76025  
Old 02-10-2013, 03:08 PM
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SlimKlim SlimKlim is offline
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Location: Fairfax, VA
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooby View Post
Calling Karl, Joey, and anyone else with HPDE experience.

I'm currently on the fence on my next purchase. I don't know whether to buy aftermarket brake ducts or better pads like PFC-08's or Hawk Blues. What would be better for a ~ 3000 lb car with street tires I'm asking. I'm currently on shiitty cheap street pads that fade way too quickly and no brake cooling whatsoever so both will yield an improvement obviously.

I guess my question is, if you were in my shoes would you do ducts, pads, or neither?
Pads. Is this for the Scoob? Does it have any form of OEM ducting for the brakes?

With good pads, good fluid and OEM rotors my car can do a full 30 minute HPDE session without a hint of brake fade, and (especially with new fluid) will bite so hard the chassis does a belly dance. I'm currently on a set of pretty aggressive Stoptechs though. The HP+'s will be perfect for the track, if a bit noisy on the street. My roommate has them in his miata and they squeal like crazy when they are cold.


Quote:
Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
My e30 studders and misses if I floor it from idle.

Thoughts?

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Clogged fuel filter? My roommate had an old 325e that would stutter going up a hill because of the filter.

For those not on my facebooks, this is how I spent my day:




Had to rip all that crap in the passenger's seat out and solder the factory harness back together to get an OEM alarm control module back in there. I took the opportunity to get some of my stereo and seat wiring cleaned up though, and all I should need to get the keyless back is an OEM fob. Anyone have a nice looking one they want to sell?
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