Resonators

Does anyone know, why 650i has 3 resonators? and which resonator should I take off ? I only want to take 1 off. should I do the front or the middle one?
What the benefit's are for the front one and the middle one?
Thanks.

Why do you want to take them off?

Originally Posted by Giantsfan82

Why do you want to take them off?

Because a guy told me, remove them and make a XPIPE .can make sound really good and have some other good things. BUT I do not want it soooooo loud when you driving at 70 MPH. like popopopopopopop...

It will not go pop pop pop. It's a 6er for fark sake, not some ford lightning truck. LOL. No offense to Ford fans, the Lightning truck is fantastic in its own right.

The twin individual resonators (cylinder-type canisters) will need to be removed first. It will not affect your decision of whether or not you'll be doing up the x-pipe. When you decide to do up the xpipe, thats where you'll be removing what you call 'the third resonator' and replacing it with the x-pipe. 'The third resonator' is very restrictive as I have opened up my stock unit to take a peek inside. It's a bunch of crap mesh for the exhaust gases to flow through before exiting through the rear twin pipes. There is no actual x-joint in there, just twin pipes exiting into a general 'hall' of mesh stuffings then exiting on their own free will into the outlet twin pipes.

Once you replace it with a proper x-pipe, you'll notice right away from the throttle pedal the free-flowing result through the exhaust. This is not some b.s. marketing speech, but from personal experience. The removal of the front individual resonators will give your exhaust a mean growl, whereas the removal of the joined-resonator will improve the flow tremendously.

My advice? Remove the joined-resonators first. Experience for yourself the difference in both performance and sound. Then remove the individual resonatos. That way, you'll know wht you're spending your money on and what you're getting out of it. I did it that way and now truly appreciate my mechanic's advice coz it has made a huge difference in the sound and performance of my Eisenmann race mufflers. I'm a happy customer. Just sharing my 2 cents.

^I thought the 2 cylinder type canisters were the cats...are they not? Where are the cats then? I wanted to remove them when I got my x-pipe but thought they were the cats and didn't want a check engine light.

You don't need to remove resonators to have good sound. I added a Britalman exhaust and that alone makes the car growl like my mustang. I don't think it's necessary unless you plan on being obnoxious driving down the road.

^But isn't your resonators removed w/the Britalman exhaust? Do you have an x-pipe or do you just have mufflers?

Originally Posted by JESMAL

It will not go pop pop pop. It's a 6er for fark sake, not some ford lightning truck. LOL. No offense to Ford fans, the Lightning truck is fantastic in its own right.

The twin individual resonators (cylinder-type canisters) will need to be removed first. It will not affect your decision of whether or not you'll be doing up the x-pipe. When you decide to do up the xpipe, thats where you'll be removing what you call 'the third resonator' and replacing it with the x-pipe. 'The third resonator' is very restrictive as I have opened up my stock unit to take a peek inside. It's a bunch of crap mesh for the exhaust gases to flow through before exiting through the rear twin pipes. There is no actual x-joint in there, just twin pipes exiting into a general 'hall' of mesh stuffings then exiting on their own free will into the outlet twin pipes.

Once you replace it with a proper x-pipe, you'll notice right away from the throttle pedal the free-flowing result through the exhaust. This is not some b.s. marketing speech, but from personal experience. The removal of the front individual resonators will give your exhaust a mean growl, whereas the removal of the joined-resonator will improve the flow tremendously.

My advice? Remove the joined-resonators first. Experience for yourself the difference in both performance and sound. Then remove the individual resonatos. That way, you'll know wht you're spending your money on and what you're getting out of it. I did it that way and now truly appreciate my mechanic's advice coz it has made a huge difference in the sound and performance of my Eisenmann race mufflers. I'm a happy customer. Just sharing my 2 cents.

Thanks a lot, I will go ask tomorrow about the cost. BTW , when you driving at 70+ MPH with all the windows up. can you hear all the noise in the car.

Originally Posted by 2modfast

^I thought the 2 cylinder type canisters were the cats...are they not? Where are the cats then? I wanted to remove them when I got my x-pipe but thought they were the cats and didn't want a check engine light.

The cats are on the headers and have the O2 sensors in them. The front 2 canisters are resonators and I removed mine and replaced them with an xpipe. I left the second resonator (the box) and added the magnaflow mufflers. It sounds so good.

NWS Alpine...do you have any pic(s) of your setup. Here's mine and please clarify. I have an x-pipe(see below) w/o the resonator but I can remove the 2 cylinder canisters (resonators) as well?

Yes, I can confidently say that you can remove the twin cylinders, which are resonators, and you will not end up with a engine check light. You will not have droning noises while cruising and the sound will not be obnoxious, unlike common belief.

From your pictures, you have the x-pipe which means you have already removed the joined resonator or what NWS calls the 'box'. You are only left with the twin resontors at the front.

When I had the eisenmann race on my stock resonators (full set), it was muted. There was no sound at all, and in fact my ACS mufflers were louder. Once I removed the joined-resonator, the flow improved, but the sound was still muted. The throaty roar only came after I removed the twin resonators. Obnoxious is driving with a side branch setup.

NWS, you have an interesting setup if you actually knew what you just wrote above. Meaning you removed the twin individual resonators and replaced with an x-pipe up at the front which then branches out into a joined resonator which then again branches out into the mufflers. That does not make much sense in fact the second y-branch where your joined resonators are will greatly reduce the velocity of the exhaust gases. You only need one x-pipe setup to bring up the velocity of the exhaust gases, not two. I'm sure your setup is pefectly fine, perhaps you saw it wrongly.

Originally Posted by JESMAL

Yes, I can confidently say that you can remove the twin cylinders, which are resonators, and you will not end up with a engine check light. You will not have droning noises while cruising and the sound will not be obnoxious, unlike common belief.

From your pictures, you have the x-pipe which means you have already removed the joined resonator or what NWS calls the 'box'. You are only left with the twin resontors at the front.

When I had the eisenmann race on my stock resonators (full set), it was muted. There was no sound at all, and in fact my ACS mufflers were louder. Once I removed the joined-resonator, the flow improved, but the sound was still muted. The throaty roar only came after I removed the twin resonators. Obnoxious is driving with a side branch setup.

NWS, you have an interesting setup if you actually knew what you just wrote above. Meaning you removed the twin individual resonators and replaced with an x-pipe up at the front which then branches out into a joined resonator which then again branches out into the mufflers. That does not make much sense in fact the second y-branch where your joined resonators are will greatly reduce the velocity of the exhaust gases. You only need one x-pipe setup to bring up the velocity of the exhaust gases, not two. I'm sure your setup is pefectly fine, perhaps you saw it wrongly.

I fully understood what everything was. The original plan was to remove all resonators and place the x-pipe in the position of the twin resonators. At the last min I decided to keep the rear resonator in and see if I liked the tone. I never got around to replacing the rear resonator.

No probs dude. Just couldn't understand your setup there and then, no offence ok?

Anyone have pics of all resonators removed???

Originally Posted by 2modfast

Anyone have pics of all resonators removed???

Yes I am thinking to do it tomorrow, after that I will add some pics.

Originally Posted by 2modfast

NWS Alpine...do you have any pic(s) of your setup. Here's mine and please clarify. I have an x-pipe(see below) w/o the resonator but I can remove the 2 cylinder canisters (resonators) as well?

I would like to know, when you driving at 7- MPH+ can you hear all the noise ?

I am so worried about the popopoppopopopopopop sound. I do not mind when you want pass cars with noise but just not when you cruising .

There is no POP POP POP noise my friend. Trust me. There is absolutely no POP POP noise. This is a friggin 6er, not some pickup truck. How do you even get that kind of noise anyway? Other than flatuence, but thats in the cabin. Removal of resonators bring out the best in your mufflers.

I'm getting my headers soon so thats resonators deleted and cats as well.

Originally Posted by JESMAL

There is no POP POP POP noise my friend. Trust me. There is absolutely no POP POP noise. This is a friggin 6er, not some pickup truck. How do you even get that kind of noise anyway? Other than flatuence, but thats in the cabin. Removal of resonators bring out the best in your mufflers.

I'm getting my headers soon so thats resonators deleted and cats as well.

WOW that will be great, when you will you do it? add some pics please .

By the way is anyone know about something called Sprint Booster? I'd like to know how it work what the benefit are? and bad things are?

The reason I am asking is, " yesterday when I got on HW. I thinking it was a VW golf tried to pass me so I speeded up. BUT that car was fast............ Passed me anyway. Passed me like I was nothing........ LOL ...

OK, sprintbooster, power pedal or velocity, it all works in the same way.

It does not add HP to your 6er, instead all it does is to trick the ecu into thinking you're hitting the throttle much more than in reality. T

ake for instance, pressing the gas pedal to a angle of 15degrees will be translated into perhaps 45degrees at the ecu, hence tricking the ecu into thinking you're wanting to go faster.

Sprint booster is not adjustable, meaning it's a one size fits all kinda device (i.e. only 1 mode).

Power pedal is adjustable, but has to be done at the throttle device at the pedal, physically and not on the fly.

Velocity on the other hand, has a device box the size of a pack of ciggies which you can fit just right under the fuse box with the help of the good old trusty 3M tape. It has a SPORTS button which basically is your ON/OFF. It has also 4 settings for you to toggle through. Setting 1 is the mildest whereas 4 is the wildest. It's a really fun device, good bang for the buck. It's kinda like the SMG 3 tranny in the M5/6 where you get to adjust the gear changing patterns/behavior, almost the same fun at a tiny fraction of the cost.

But bear in mind, it does not add any horsepower to your ride. It only improves the responsiveness of your ride. Also, since it alters the way your car accelerates when the gas pedal is depressed, remember that it will alter the way your car decelerates when you lift your lead foot off the gas pedal. So expect your ride to be jerky at setting number 4.

Hope this helps. Search around, I know some guys on the E60 forum are forming a GB for it. If all else fails, you can form a GB and I'll send you the goodies.

Originally Posted by JESMAL

OK, sprintbooster, power pedal or velocity, it all works in the same way.

It does not add HP to your 6er, instead all it does is to trick the ecu into thinking you're hitting the throttle much more than in reality. T

ake for instance, pressing the gas pedal to a angle of 15degrees will be translated into perhaps 45degrees at the ecu, hence tricking the ecu into thinking you're wanting to go faster.

Sprint booster is not adjustable, meaning it's a one size fits all kinda device (i.e. only 1 mode).

Power pedal is adjustable, but has to be done at the throttle device at the pedal, physically and not on the fly.

Velocity on the other hand, has a device box the size of a pack of ciggies which you can fit just right under the fuse box with the help of the good old trusty 3M tape. It has a SPORTS button which basically is your ON/OFF. It has also 4 settings for you to toggle through. Setting 1 is the mildest whereas 4 is the wildest. It's a really fun device, good bang for the buck. It's kinda like the SMG 3 tranny in the M5/6 where you get to adjust the gear changing patterns/behavior, almost the same fun at a tiny fraction of the cost.

But bear in mind, it does not add any horsepower to your ride. It only improves the responsiveness of your ride. Also, since it alters the way your car accelerates when the gas pedal is depressed, remember that it will alter the way your car decelerates when you lift your lead foot off the gas pedal. So expect your ride to be jerky at setting number 4.

Hope this helps. Search around, I know some guys on the E60 forum are forming a GB for it. If all else fails, you can form a GB and I'll send you the goodies.

Thanks a lot, Do you know any link to Velocity? I could not find it where to buy.
btw what is GB?

GB= Group Buy

Okay I just got my 2 remaining resonators removed. OMG...the sound is great. Not too loud but when on full throttle - GREATNESS!!

I'll try tp post pics soon!!!

I just did my too, OMG. Sounds GREAT!! Even sounds more deep with my Magnaflow exhausts . I have to say I love it.

I will try to add some pic or video here soon.

Thanks a lot

Originally Posted by 2modfast

Okay I just got my 2 remaining resonators removed. OMG...the sound is great. Not too loud but when on full throttle - GREATNESS!!

I'll try tp post pics soon!!!

Post some vids instead!

Welldone guys! See? Absolutely painless!