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E36 /7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 roadster and coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 08-19-2009, 01:06 PM
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wildag wildag is offline
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Mein Auto: '06 Z4 M Roadster
Z3 Pre-Purchase Advice

Before purchasing a Z3, you should make all of your normal inspections. This is simply a list of common Z3 issues that you should keep in mind.

Water Pump:
The water pumps on Z3s fail like clock work around 60k. If the car is over 50k, and hasn't had the water pump replaced, expect to replace it. Part costs ~$150 and labor is 2 hours.

Differential Mount and Trunk Floor Welds:
The Z3's differential mount and rear trunk floor welds are prone to tearing. To inspect, remove the carpet in the trunk and look for spot welds along the back floor. These spot welds should be little flat circles. If they are sunk, or cracked, there will soon be a problem. Under the car, look at the C shaped mount to which the differential is bolted. Inspect for tears in the corners of C. Also look at the bottom of the trunk floor for signs of tearing or separation.

Randy Forbes and Dinan both have kits that strengthen the diff mount and trunk floor. These can be used as a preventative measure.

Leaking Around Windows:
Look for discoloration and water stains on the carpet floor. Be sure to check behind the seats and under the floor mats. The cause of this is usually a leak near the top of the A pillar (front window) where the window meets the front of the soft top. Use a product like Gumi-pfledge to 'moisten' the rubber.

Alignment Bushings and Brake Pads:
While driving the car at least 40mph, lightly hold the steering wheel and press the brakes with force. If the car swerves, or does not stop in a smooth straight line, you'll need to inspect the following: front control arm bushings, tie rod bushings, brake pads and rotors. The control arm and tie rod bushings may be cracked or broken, causing extra 'play' in the steering alignment. The brake pads and rotors may be too worn or warped.

2001-2002 ///M Roadsters and Coupes:
The S54 engine in these cars had a very significant design flaw, that can be fatal to the engine. The rod bearings on the crank shaft can become misaligned, causing the crankshaft to move out of alignment. Replacing these bearings with an updated version is a permanent, but costly fix. All S54 owners should ensure that this problem has been corrected. BMW covered this problem under warranty on other models, and has been known to cover this issue on a case-by-case basis for the Z3.

Manual Transmission Shifting:
The manual transmission shift lever may lean to the right (5th gear) or may be difficult to put in 1st and 2nd gear. This indicates worn shift pins, sometimes due to excessively aggressive driving or due to mileage. Replacement parts about $100. The transmission needs to removed and special tools are need for the service. BMW does not publish service instructions for the Z3 transmission, so a seasoned transmission specialist will need to be consulted. These issues may be resolved with a simple fluid flush and change.

Roadster Soft Top:
The soft top may be frayed, torn or generally worn. Replacement tops can be purchased for ~$700. Installation is quite difficult, because of tension placed on the top by the frame. Installation can be performed by most indie shops.

Motorized automatic tops may not perform as they should. As a temporary solution, you can disengage the hydraulic pressure system so that the top can be manually moved. The knob is behind the driver's side trunk carpet. Often a rusted motor or frayed wiring are responsible for non-working tops.

Roadster Plastic Rear Window:
The rear window may be foggy or have opaque creases. "Fogging" of the window is normal and is caused be normal use. Fogging can generally fixed with Meguire's Plastic Cleaner and Polish produces; cost about $20 from any auto care store.

Creases in the window can cause the window to tear or wear holes. The window can be replaced using the "zipper" that's around the inside edge. The replacement window costs about $220. Installation is quite tedious, but can be done in a few hours.

Slight Seat Rocking:
With hard acceleration or braking, both the driver's and passenger's side seat may rock slightly. This is caused by two very soft rubber bushings that have deteriorated. You can order a fix it kit from Doug Whalen. Takes about 3 hours to fix both seats.

Dash and Center Console Lights:
The lights behind the gauge cluster and HVAC controls in the center console may be burnt out. The lights are very cheap, but replacement can take a few hours.

Check that dash and center console lights are illuminated when the head light knob is pulled out. If they do no illuminate, try turning the head light knob in either direction. If the lights dim heavily when they're supposed to be lit, do not have a consistent slope of illumination or are completely dark, the head light knob circuit needs to be replaced. Parts are about $90 and installation takes an hour.

A/C Control:
Check that turning the "hot/cold" HVAC knob (center) has the desired effect. If the knob turns very easily, or not at all, there's a problem with the tension cable. If the knob moves too easily, the HVAC control may need to be replaced for about $150. If the knob doesn't move, especially from hot to cold, the tension cable needs to adjusted; 2 hours of work.

Check that turning the fan speed knob (right) has the desired effect on all 5 settings. If the knob only works on the upper most settings, its likely that a resister in the fan control has broken. Parts cost about $30 and require 2 hours of labor.

Blown Speakers:
Check that the stereo speakers all sound normal. The subwoofer and kick-panel speakers will degrade over time. The subwoofer is very expensive to replace, but there are many aftermarket options such as roadstersound.com. The kick panel speakers can be replaced easily.

Sagging, Squeaky Glovebox:
The glovebox may sag, or not align correctly when closed. This is caused by poor design of the glove box door and latch. This can be fixed for about $20, and 2 hours of work.

Rear Shock Mount Bushings:
The rear shock mount bushings wear quickly in spirited driving. You will hear a solid "clunking" sound inside the cabin from either side of the rear. This indicates that these bushings have worn and need to be replaced. Parts cost ~$30. Roadster install time is around 2 hours. Coupes require disassembling almost the entire trunk carpet, and therefore takes around 3 hours. Many people will suggest installing Rouge Engineering Rear Shock Mounts, as they will allow much easier replacement of these bushings in the future.

Parking Brake Cable Tension:
The parking brake cable can stretch over time. This may cause the parking brake not to fully engage, and the cable may rattle against its retainer clips during normal driving. The rattling sound will appear to come from outside the car and over the driver's left shoulder. The cable can be re-tensioned using simple tools; takes about 30 minutes to learn. In some cases, a retaining clip and spring inside the rear wheel hubs may have failed, causing the rattle. These can be replaced for ~$20 and take about 30 minutes.

Uneven Tire Wear:
Moderately uneven tire wear on all four tires is normal. The factory recommended camber and toe setup will cause this uneven wear. Tires that are heavily worn on only on one side of an axle indicate a suspension geometry problem. This may be due to sagging springs, bent arms or nascar circuit driving. This kind of issues can be quite costly, and should be remedied before purchase.
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Last edited by wildag; 08-28-2009 at 07:26 PM.
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  #2  
Old 08-19-2009, 04:42 PM
DKane DKane is offline
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Mein Auto: '97 2.8 Z3 bg R
Actually something most important for pre****...

having just got back from a pre**** inspection near LA of a nice lo-mileage '99 Dakar 2.8 Z3, I found the most important item to be: CHECK THE BODY VIN STICKERS!!!.. clean Carfax.. but close inspection revealed painted over DOT sticker on hood(replaced part)..closer inspection showed repaint both front and rear bumper covers...this vehicle was priced well and looked good from 10 feet away...This could still be a good buy for someone(less than $10k), but i passed mainly becuz former owner cheaped out the repair from a front/rear collision.. appeared he had hood off awhile( while shopping for replacement on the cheap?.engine bay was more "weathered" than expected for 42k miles)..and then did lo-cost paintwork(possible even a home garage affair) ..so bottom line for me was "condition" is still everything & eyeballing it in person made all the difference...Z3 Cheers! dk '97 2.8 bg R
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  #3  
Old 08-19-2009, 04:46 PM
DKane DKane is offline
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Location: Auburn,CA
 
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Mein Auto: '97 2.8 Z3 bg R
Actually something most important for pre-purchase...

having just got back from a pre-purchase inspection near LA of a nice lo-mileage '99 Dakar 2.8 Z3, I found the most important item to be: CHECK THE BODY VIN STICKERS!!!.. clean Carfax.. but close inspection revealed painted over DOT sticker on hood(replaced part)..closer inspection showed repaint both front and rear bumper covers...this vehicle was priced well and looked good from 10 feet away...This could still be a good buy for someone(less than $10k), but i passed mainly becuz former owner cheaped out the repair from a front/rear collision.. appeared he had hood off awhile( while shopping for replacement on the cheap?.engine bay was more "weathered" than expected for 42k miles)..and then did lo-cost paintwork(possible even a home garage affair) ..so bottom line for me was "condition" is still everything & eyeballing it in person made all the difference...Z3 Cheers! dk '97 2.8 bg R(redux !
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  #4  
Old 08-19-2009, 05:26 PM
kieskaman kieskaman is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 Coupe
All water pumps on every Z3 model year out there?

I thought the malady only affected the plastic impellers. Do they just crap out all of a sudden or are there warning signs? You think there would be a TSB
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  #5  
Old 08-19-2009, 07:15 PM
DKane DKane is offline
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Mein Auto: '97 2.8 Z3 bg R
Actually "all" is the answer....

Quote:
Originally Posted by kieskaman View Post
I thought the malady only affected the plastic impellers. Do they just crap out all of a sudden or are there warning signs? You think there would be a TSB
..the plastic goes south the fastest(most imbalanced unit)...the iron cast is second ..and last,the ss impellor version..which usually blows out the front bearing due to the god-awful weight of that oversized fan and thermal-clutch affair(which works well, just reallllly heavy)...if you fan delete, the pumps all last longer...problem is, one never knows which unit is oem on your Z3..hence it's a crap shoot wp-wise(if you have the SS unit, you probably make it beyond the 60k realm...the stewart unit is not all that much, but it has a really good bearing set(hd) and that alleviates the heavy fan problems...What to watch for?..the drip-drip-drip from the weep hole at base of wp.."when it starts a drippin', you'll soon take a lickin' "..and FAN WOBBLE!..If you can discern any fan wobble(engine off,spin fan, check side-play)..if it's noticeable..it's one step from fan-hell...Z3 Cheers! dk '97 2.8 bg R
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  #6  
Old 08-20-2009, 07:18 AM
Kairos Kairos is offline
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Phenomenal information and much appreciated. I picked up an '01 M roady a few months back. On my way back, less than one hour into the drive, my subwoofer blew. If anyone has replaced/upgraded their sound system I am all ears. I would prefer to keep the in-dash OEM stereo but open to upgrading with an amp and better speakers...where needed. Any suggestions on who not to trust (e.g., big box retailers) would be appreciated since this is my show car / weekend driver in the summer. I highly recommend preinspection prior to buying.

-Q
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2009, 08:30 AM
Doc Holliday Doc Holliday is offline
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Mein Auto: 2003 325xi, 2001 Z3 3.0
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kairos View Post
Phenomenal information and much appreciated. I picked up an '01 M roady a few months back. On my way back, less than one hour into the drive, my subwoofer blew. If anyone has replaced/upgraded their sound system I am all ears. I would prefer to keep the in-dash OEM stereo but open to upgrading with an amp and better speakers...where needed. Any suggestions on who not to trust (e.g., big box retailers) would be appreciated since this is my show car / weekend driver in the summer. I highly recommend preinspection prior to buying.

-Q
Once again, these cars are not "prone" to the differential mount failure any more than they are "prone" to VANOS failure.
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2010, 03:58 PM
rfeirste rfeirste is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 Roadster 2.5 red
Smile

On the other hand, I just picked up a 2001 Roadster this Summer, and except for the front pads, this almost 60,000 vehicle has been perfect!!!! {Knock on Wood}. The front pads were very easy to change (I selected a pair of PBR ULT Ceramic pads), as was the replacement wear sensor.

Prior to purchase, the former owner put on new tires and had to have the soft top motor repaired.
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  #9  
Old 04-11-2012, 11:16 AM
DeathFromAbv DeathFromAbv is offline
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Location: Lake Lanier, Georgia
 
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Posts: 29
Mein Auto: 98 5spd Z3 & 99 Explorer
Appreciate this info, long story short bought a Z3 10 days kinda impulsively, think it's been well taken-care of but will definitely have the mechanic replace the water pump if it hasn't already been done.
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  #10  
Old 08-14-2012, 04:53 PM
jaketo jaketo is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 2
Mein Auto: 1997 BMW z3
This is Awesome.

Most problems my car has are on this list! It's been overheating recently and now i can assume why.

Question: Will the faulty shift pins affect my RPM? My car gets up to 3000rpm in 5th at 55-60mph. I have a problem.

Other problems that I don't know are common, but could possible be added to the list if you get enough input:

- My stereo shorts out and asks for the security code every couple minutes. I'm replacing the stereo in hope that its an internal problem and not a car wiring problem. I'll put another response to keep you updated.

- My inside drivers door handle/arm rest (the one with the mirror controls) is completely separated from the door. I am trying to figure out what to do...I'm thinking glue.

- And my oil filter cap is simply un-removable. A friend who owns a car parts com. stopped by, tried all of his special hi-tech tools and it still didn't budge. It's due for a change and I don't know what to do!

- I recently replaced both O2 sensors after my car not passing smog. It did but just barely. I do not know why this awesome little car wouldn't pass, no one knows what's wrong.

- My drivers side window makes funny noises and doesn't work all that well, but is still useable.
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