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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 09-09-2015, 07:28 AM
dougpaulburdic dougpaulburdic is offline
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Location: winnsboro, SC
 
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Mein Auto: 2000 z3/2.5
temp gauge

so i understand the temp gauge on my 2000 Z-3 will never read past the center, regardless of how hot the engine gets. Anyone know how to change that?
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  #2  
Old 09-09-2015, 08:40 AM
Blacklane Blacklane is online now
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That's not exactly true. If the engine overheats, the temp gauge will certainly indicate hot. However, whenever the temp is in the normal range, the gauge will be just to the right of center. That's because it's driven by the engine computer, not the actual water temperature.
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  #3  
Old 09-09-2015, 09:12 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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As the engine warms up, the needle rises and leaves the blue zone around 150F.

In the normal operating range, the needle varies only by touching between the left and right sides of the mark. Touching the left is about 167F, and touching the right is about 207F. In that 40 degree range, the needle is essentially vertical, always "on the mark".

As the engine begins to overheat, the needle leaves vertical and moves toward the red zone. I do not know at what temperature that begins, because at 213F the fan (single electric) comes on and knocks the temperature back down. If the temperature should ever continue into the red zone, there is a temporary problem. I say temporary because the engine cannot run in the red zone and will quickly suffer overheating damage.

I got my car at 32,000 miles with the original thermostat. Its normal operating range was between 167F on the road and 195F in the city. Hearing that it was not right, I replaced it at 40,000 miles. The temperature since then has stayed at 207F +/- 1F at all times, except when idling in traffic, when the fan comes on.

I cannot tell the difference between the original apparently faulty sticking and cool thermostat and the new one. Warm up is a bit quicker, but mileage is the same. I wonder if the 18 years of running 40 degrees cooler may have saved the plastic parts from leaking until I replaced everything.

Last edited by vintage42; 09-09-2015 at 09:21 AM.
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  #4  
Old 09-09-2015, 12:12 PM
dougpaulburdic dougpaulburdic is offline
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i'm not having any cooling problems. I simply am not running the pump driven fan anymore since the last one flew apart and damaged my hood. My scan tool says the temp is getting no higher than 207 or so. it's usually around 199. That's with just the AUX fan. I'm just concerned that, should the Aux fan go out, I might not realize it in time if the gauge isn't telling me the right temp.
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  #5  
Old 09-09-2015, 02:11 PM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougpaulburdic View Post
i'm not having any cooling problems. I simply am not running the pump driven fan anymore since the last one flew apart and damaged my hood. My scan tool says the temp is getting no higher than 207 or so. it's usually around 199. That's with just the AUX fan. I'm just concerned that, should the Aux fan go out, I might not realize it in time if the gauge isn't telling me the right temp.
I see no problem for several reasons.
Your aux electric fan is the one and only fan on the 1.9, where it never comes on except for a moment after sitting in traffic.
The electric fan is otherwise only used when the AC is turned on, so it gets little use and I have not heard of one going out.
If the fan did not work and you were in city driving, the temperature would slowly rise and eventually move the needle toward the red zone. There would be no sudden overheating as with coolant loss.
As soon as the car was moving again to produce airflow through the radiator, the temperature would fall. Stoplight to stoplight driving is enough.

For lack of a fan to overheat your engine to a harmful point, all of following would have to occur:
- The fan would have to not work.
- You would have to not notice that, such as having no AC.
- You would have to idle the car stationary for awhile with a hot engine, like in an Interstate backup.
- You would have to not notice the needle slowly rising toward the red zone, when at such time you might want to be watching the needle.
- You would then either not be able to get the car into a lane where it can move even slowly, or not be able to turn the engine off.
- The temperature would need to stay high in the red zone a few minutes.

Many 6-cylinder owners delete the belt driven fan either after it comes apart or pre-emptively.

Last edited by vintage42; 09-09-2015 at 02:18 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-09-2015, 02:41 PM
dougpaulburdic dougpaulburdic is offline
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Sounds good. I wont worry about it too much then. Thanks!
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  #7  
Old 09-11-2015, 02:20 AM
smayo964 smayo964 is online now
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Vintage42. Is that a legit statement that the fans are omitted on the 6 cyl models? I know my pump and fan has been replaced well prior to be purchasing the vehicle, but I have never removed it to see if it was a metal impeller style pump or OEM plastic. I can tell it was replaced by the imprint of the fan in the back of the radiator fins. I'm at approx. 139000 miles an mine feels pretty tight still. I just want to be sure I'm not overlooking anything that would cause an unwanted "opportunity" down the road. Thanx.
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  #8  
Old 09-11-2015, 05:18 AM
dougpaulburdic dougpaulburdic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smayo964 View Post
Vintage42. Is that a legit statement that the fans are omitted on the 6 cyl models? I know my pump and fan has been replaced well prior to be purchasing the vehicle, but I have never removed it to see if it was a metal impeller style pump or OEM plastic. I can tell it was replaced by the imprint of the fan in the back of the radiator fins. I'm at approx. 139000 miles an mine feels pretty tight still. I just want to be sure I'm not overlooking anything that would cause an unwanted "opportunity" down the road. Thanx.
Speaking just for myself, I live in South Carolina, and I'm running with only the AUX electric fan. My plastic, waterpump mounted fan flew apart, damaging the radiator and the hood! I have been running without it and the fan clutch for the whole summer here, both on the interstate and in traffic, with no issues. I just wanted to know if the gauge would read high if the temp gets high, because someone at this site once said it wouldn't read past half way no matter what!
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  #9  
Old 09-11-2015, 05:23 AM
Bob2.8 Bob2.8 is offline
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Search for Fan Delete . There are a lot of posts and discussions about running without the fan.
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2015, 07:57 AM
smayo964 smayo964 is online now
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Thanx for the input as this the first i've heard of doing this. As i am in MS, most of my driving is open highway so cooling due to stop and go traffic is minimal. Thanx again.
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  #11  
Old 09-11-2015, 08:12 AM
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vintage42 vintage42 is offline
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Cooling in stop and go is fine as long as the electric fan works.
If you know the electric fan does not work, just don't stop moving for too long.
I don't think anybody has ever reported a problem from having only the electric fan.
That is all the 1.9s have.
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