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DIY: 1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor!

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90K views 75 replies 28 participants last post by  psxzombie  
C
#1 · (Edited)
This is a DIY cap-hose combination, to bleed the hydraulic system using an existing Air Compressor.

In theory, you can use "Motive Power Bleeder", which is nothing more than a modified garden sprayer bottle. However, it costs around US $50 or so.

But for those who already owns an air compressor, you can do the following DIY, this way you:
- Can invest minimally using my DIY (about $15 total)
- Do not have to clean the Motive Bleeder after the job. Also keeping the Motive Bleeder Bottle clean for the next 2 years (until you beed again) can be a challenge (dirt collecting inside the bottle etc.).
- Using my DIY cap-hose combination, you simply bleed and then store the DIY cap-hose combination away after use. Just use a ziploc bag to cap both ends and tie it so dirt does not get in this device.

General Notes:
- Brake Fluid is very corrosive to paint work, so wipe off any spill on paint work ASAP.
- Use a small funnel to pour brake fluid into the reservoir to avoid spill.
- Wrap the area around the reservoir with some rag to absorb any spill.
- The Air Compressor: use minimum 10 psi, max 15 psi. Do NOT exceed 30 psi (risk of damage to reservoir although I do not know for sure what pressure it takes to rupture the reservoir).
- Do not ever allow air to enter the hydraulic ABS system, because once air is inside the ABS Modulator, it is very difficult to get rid off. If you allow air to enter the ABS Modulator, then you need to visit the dealer so they can use their computer device to bleed the air out of the ABS Modulator. Now you are talking big expense!
- If you fill Brake Fluid to within 1 inch of the cap, you can safely bleed using the standard small catch container as in the pic (sold at many auto parts store) twice before refilling the Brake Reservoir again.
- When in doubt, stop and check the reservoir to be sure it does not fall below "Min" level.
- Do this on a dry day so moisture from the air does not enter the compressor. Avoid rainy days at all cost!!!
- I have a 1998 BMW 528I and 1998 Volvo V70, with both using ATE Brake System. So buy the standard 45-mm ATE cap from FCP Groton (or local Volvo dealer). Just get the cap from a 1991 Volvo 240 or 740. Back then those caps did not have Brake Fluid Level sensor. It was a plain simple 45-mm cap.
- This 45-mm cap can be used to bleed hydraulic system in any car with ATE reservoir such as: MB, BMW, Audi, VW, Volvo, SAAB etc. Check to be sure if using it on other cars. Japanese cars use different caps.

Image


1. To make my DIY cap-hose combination:
- ATE Brake Reservoir Cap from FCP Groton or local Volvo dealer; Volvo PN 1272107, used in many Volvo cars since 1960's through 1990's ($5.00):
http://www.fcpgroton.com/search.php?nodecode=true&search_term=1272107&do=search
- Compressor Hose ($6-7 at my local Menards hardware store, or Harbor Freights etc.). EDIT: You may not need this hose at all (see EDIT below in follow-up post).
- 1/4-inch nut ($1.00)
- 1/2-inch washers ($1.00)

Image

---------
- Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the ATE cap and clean any debris.
- Use the Air Hose Male end and insert into the cap, washer on both sides.
- Small bead of Silicone under each washer and the hose male end's threads.
- Tighten the 1/4-inch nut hand tight.
- Let the Silicone Caulk cure for one day before using it.

Image


2. To bleed:
- Open the bottom drain valve of the Air Compressor and turn the Air Compressor on to expel any water inside the Air Compressor. Then close the bottom valve.
- Keep air pressure within 10-15 psi (this works best for me). Do NOT exceed 30 psi!
- Using a Turkey Baster, suck out as much old brake fluid from reservoir as possible.
- Using a Small Funnel, add Fresh Brake Fluid until it is about 1 inch from the top. Avoid spilling or overtopping!
- Attach the cap-hose combination.
- Connect to Air Compressor using the quick disconnect.
- Keep air pressure within 10-15 psi!!!

Image


- Start bleeding, remember you can bleed about 2 small containers before you need to refill.
- To refill reservoir, disconnect air hose at "quick disconnect", refill reservoir to within 1 inch of the top. Re-connect hose.
- For each car, I use about 70-80% of the 32-Ounce (946 mL) Brake Fluid Bottle. I use Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid (DOT 4).

Good Luck and enjoy this one-man kit if you already own an air compressor. It is a breeze to bleed the brake this way!
 

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C
#7 · (Edited)
For those who want to build a "pressurizer" using garden spray bottle, here is the DIY:
http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm

I already have an air compressor and am very happy with my DIY.
I bled my 1998 Volvo V70 and 1998 BMW 528i yesterday.
It took about 30 minutes/each car.
Now I don't have to bother my 10-year-old son to pump the brake pedal any longer!

PS: I forgot to mention that my E39 can be bled with car on the ground, no need to lift it up. For FRONT wheels: turn wheel to opposite direction (For Right Front, turn wheel to LEFT to expose the bleeding nipple). The REAR Wheels are straightforward.
 
C
#10 ·
For those who want to buy Motive Bleeder for $50:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/22523/nm/Motive+Power+Brake+Bleeder
Here is a simple math:

- Motive Bleeder $50-55.

My DIY:
- ATE Cap $5, 1/4" NPT Fitting $0.50, 1/2" Washers $0.50.....$7.00
- Now you have extra cash for a pancake air compressor...if you look hard enough (sales at hardware store or Sears etc.) you can buy a pancake air compressor for $45-50 range.

Now you have the extra pancake air compressor for many other uses: tire inflation, air tools in home remodelling projects (if you care for it!), brake bleeding (of course).

See? win-win situation with my DIY. If you already budget $50 to buy Motive bleeder, stop!!! Do my DIY: this way, now you have a pancake air compressor for free!
 
M
#11 ·
Nice ideas... I like being able to replace the brake fluid while pressurizing the system. It is a pain in the a$$ to pop the top off the mc and refill. You don't EVER want to push air into the system:
Here is my DIY pressure bleeder:
Image


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Bottom line: You should change your brake fluid every 2 years. It doesn't matter how you do it, just do it.
 
C
#12 ·
Max_VQ,

Nice setup, similar to Motive Bleeder.

With my DIY, there is nothing to clean after bleeding.
The slight downside of my setup: refills 3-4 x during the bleeding process. Each refill is quick:
- remove cap: 3 seconds
- fill more brake fluid: 10 seconds
- recap: 3 seconds

The time I "lose" to do the brake fluid refills (16 seconds x 4 = approx 1 minute) is gained by the fact that I do not have to clean the fresh fluid bottle (The "Rona" bottle in your pic)......hehe.

Anyway, whatever trick (Motive Bleeder or my DIY) works. As I mentioned above, by doing my trick, you have budget for a pancake air compressor for free!
 
K
#16 · (Edited)
I don't know....now the way you guys are talkin is the best and cleanest way? I am trying to fully understand it. you use the compressor to pressurize the system through the cap after topping it off? can you describe the science of what is going on?


******update....*****either way i am going to go home tonight and make one....I am changing to steel lines******88
 
C
#17 ·
kingbled said:
I don't know....now the way you guys are talkin is the best and cleanest way? I am trying to fully understand it. you use the compressor to pressurize the system through the cap after topping it off? can you describe the science of what is going on?
Click to expand...
1. The classic way: 2-man technique:
One person depresses the brake pedal (with a small piece of wood under the brake pedal to prevent over-travel of the pedal) while the other person bleeds from the caliper.
The problem is: you need an assistant, which is not always available.

2. The one-man technique using a pressurizer as mentioned in this thread. No need for 2nd person. Options:
a- Garden Sprayer (Motive Bleeder)
b- Air Compressor

3. Reverse bleeding like you just mentioned. Stay away from this urban legend.

Anyway, you might want to visit this library by Larry Carley to catch up on some car repair readings. There is a wealth of info here written by the American guru Larry Carley:
www.aa1car.com/library.htm
 
K
#18 · (Edited)
Hey thanks for the information. I did it before of course being a car owner but never really understood the complete science behind it...I thought about it last night and understood that the way i asked the question was VERY elementry at best. I got most of the stuff to make it yesterday just waiting for the cap that I might have to order online. Thanks for the information on the GRRREAT DIY. You guys love to know what is going on with your car...and that is why I like it here...king


******oh and this is a good guide....thank you for the extra information*****
 
C
#19 · (Edited)
kingbled said:
Hey thanks for the information. I did it before of course being a car owner but never really understood the complete science behind it...I thought about it last night and understood that the way i asked the question was VERY elementry at best. I got most of the stuff to make it yesterday just waiting for the cap that I might have to order online. Thanks for the information on the GRRREAT DIY. You guys love to know what is going on with your car...and that is why I like it here...king

******oh and this is a good guide....thank you for the extra information*****
Click to expand...
For small part like this, go to local Volvo dealer and order Volvo PN 1272107 (ATE Cap) for $5.00.
This ATE cap goes way back to 1960's when ATE made brake reservoir etc. for many European cars (Vovlvo, VW, Audi, MB, Mercedes etc.).
They may not have ithe brake capin stock, but they can order it for you.
You can even order on the phone and come and pick it up when it is in.

Whatever it is, read my DIY carefully. I took alot of care writing it in detail.
Do not exceed 20 psi.
Best is 10-15 psi.
 
C
#22 · (Edited)
For those of you who have another car other than the E39, if you cannot find the factory Cap to fit, there is another way to make the Universal Brake Bleeder Cap for $8.00 total.

1. Universal Brake Bleeder Cap Parts List (See Picture):
- Plumbing PVC Drain Cap 3": $1.50
- Standard Air Adaptor: $0.90
- 1/4" FIP x 1/8" FIP Reducer: $1.00
- 1/8" Lock Nut: $1.00
- 1/8" MIP Pipe: $1.00
- 3/8" Washer: cheap
- Teflon Tape, Rubber Gasket and Silicone Caulk

- Go to any local Ace Hardware store, they have everything you need there.

Image


2. To make Universal Brake Bleeder Cap (See Picture):
- Drill a 3/8" hole on the side of the cap (Do not drill on the top, you need to leave the top alone for the U-bolt to clamp on). Enlarge the hole a bit so the Pipe goes through snugly.
- Using Teflon Tape, Assemble the Standard Air Adaptor ---> 1/4" FIP x 1/8" FIP Reducer ---> 1/8" MIP Pipe
- Now slide the Pipe into the PVC Cap just a bit, then apply some silicone caulk on the thread, then push the whole Pipe into the cap. Then install rubber O-ring and washer and Lock Nut. Tighten it snug.

Image


3. The Set up with U-bolt (See Picture):
- For comparison, on the Right Side is the 45-mm "ATE" Brake Cap I use on my Volvo, BMW but this can also be used in any European cars with ATE Brake Cap (Volvo, SAAB, BMW, MB, VW, Porsche, Audi etc.)

Image


4. The Set up in my 2007 Honda Odyssey Van (See Picture):
- Air Compressor "Pressure Regulator" set at 15 psi max.

Image


5. 2007 Honda Odyssey Van Bleed Screw (See Picture):
- Bleed Screw is 10-mm for both Front and Rear Brakes.

Image


- I use Lisle Brake Container "Item 19200" ($6.00 at local auto parts store). It probably holds about 2 ounces of fluid:
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=185

- When filling the 2007 Honda Odyssey Brake Reservoir to the Top, if you bleed the brake using the Lisle container up to 80% of the container, then one Reservoir Fill is good for 2 containers.
- Whatever you do, do not let the Brake Fluid level get below 1 cm under the "Min" mark. Do not ever allow air in any car with ABS because once air gets into the ABS Modulator, it is a headache to purge the air out of the Hydraulic Actuator (go to dealer etc.).
- Air Compressor Main Pressure may be at 20-30 psi but the Regulator must be set at 15 psi max.
- Tighten the U-bolt nut by hand only, you may use a wrench but be gentle, do NOT over-tighten the U-bolt. All you need is snug. A little leak is OK because this Universal Cap is not as tight as factory cap. But you will find out that a little leak is no big deal because with the air compressor, all you have to do is to crank it up a bit here and there.

- After the entire brake bleeding job is complete, if your Brake and VSA light is on in the instrument cluster, don't panic! This is because during brake bleeding process, when the brake level is below Min level, the Brake Fluid Level Sensor sends a signal to the computer. Even after you fill the brake reservoir later, the signal is still there. After driving 1-2 cycles, the light will be out.

- Enjoy the Universal Brake Bleeder Cap.
 

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#74 ·
cn90 said:
For those of you who have another car other than the E39, if you cannot find the factory Cap to fit, there is another way to make the Universal Brake Bleeder Cap for $8.00 total. 1. Universal Brake Bleeder Cap Parts List (See Picture): - Plumbing PVC Drain Cap 3": $1.50 - Standard Air Adaptor: $0.90 - 1/4" FIP x 1/8" FIP Reducer: $1.00 - 1/8" Lock Nut: $1.00 - 1/8" MIP Pipe: $1.00 - 3/8" Washer: cheap - Teflon Tape, Rubber Gasket and Silicone Caulk - Go to any local Ace Hardware store, they have everything you need there.
Image
2. To make Universal Brake Bleeder Cap (See Picture): - Drill a 3/8" hole on the side of the cap (Do not drill on the top, you need to leave the top alone for the U-bolt to clamp on). Enlarge the hole a bit so the Pipe goes through snugly. - Using Teflon Tape, Assemble the Standard Air Adaptor ---> 1/4" FIP x 1/8" FIP Reducer ---> 1/8" MIP Pipe - Now slide the Pipe into the PVC Cap just a bit, then apply some silicone caulk on the thread, then push the whole Pipe into the cap. Then install rubber O-ring and washer and Lock Nut. Tighten it snug.
Image
3. The Set up with U-bolt (See Picture): - For comparison, on the Right Side is the 45-mm "ATE" Brake Cap I use on my Volvo, BMW but this can also be used in any European cars with ATE Brake Cap (Volvo, SAAB, BMW, MB, VW, Porsche, Audi etc.)
Image
4. The Set up in my 2007 Honda Odyssey Van (See Picture): - Air Compressor "Pressure Regulator" set at 15 psi max.
Image
5. 2007 Honda Odyssey Van Bleed Screw (See Picture): - Bleed Screw is 10-mm for both Front and Rear Brakes.
Image
- I use Lisle Brake Container "Item 19200" ($6.00 at local auto parts store). It probably holds about 2 ounces of fluid: http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=185 - When filling the 2007 Honda Odyssey Brake Reservoir to the Top, if you bleed the brake using the Lisle container up to 80% of the container, then one Reservoir Fill is good for 2 containers. - Whatever you do, do not let the Brake Fluid level get below 1 cm under the "Min" mark. Do not ever allow air in any car with ABS because once air gets into the ABS Modulator, it is a headache to purge the air out of the Hydraulic Actuator (go to dealer etc.). - Air Compressor Main Pressure may be at 20-30 psi but the Regulator must be set at 15 psi max. - Tighten the U-bolt nut by hand only, you may use a wrench but be gentle, do NOT over-tighten the U-bolt. All you need is snug. A little leak is OK because this Universal Cap is not as tight as factory cap. But you will find out that a little leak is no big deal because with the air compressor, all you have to do is to crank it up a bit here and there. - After the entire brake bleeding job is complete, if your Brake and VSA light is on in the instrument cluster, don't panic! This is because during brake bleeding process, when the brake level is below Min level, the Brake Fluid Level Sensor sends a signal to the computer. Even after you fill the brake reservoir later, the signal is still there. After driving 1-2 cycles, the light will be out. - Enjoy the Universal Brake Bleeder Cap.
Click to expand...
Thank you... I look forward to giving this DIY "universal cap" for pressurize brake bleeding a go on our 2013 Chevy Volt that has cola-colored brake fluid after 9 years/~100k miles.
 
#25 ·
reverse bleeding is nonsense.. don't do it. use either a) a friend b) a motive or c) this diy i bleed brakes about once a month on the track car (before each event basically) using the motive as i frequently do it at home with no assistant around. works well. oh and i always put fluid in it. you DO NOT want air entering your ABS pump.
 
C
#26 ·
kishg said:
reverse bleeding is nonsense.. don't do it. use either a) a friend b) a motive or c) this diy i bleed brakes about once a month on the track car (before each event basically) using the motive as i frequently do it at home with no assistant around. works well. oh and i always put fluid in it. you DO NOT want air entering your ABS pump.
Click to expand...
Actually the thread above by musa is not reverse bleeding.
It is basically sucking brake fluid out using vacuum (instead of pressurized air as in this thread).

Reverse Bleeding is basically applying pressurized air to the bleeding nipple and pushes brake fluid UPWARD into the reservoir. Now it is non-sense, I agree with you.
 
M
#38 · (Edited)
CN90,

Is the attached what your cap (underside) looked like? I ordered the right part number, but for volvo 940. Immediately emailed with the model I actually wanted, and Joe at FCP indicated it was ok. However, What I received doesn't looks right. I was expecting a flat underside.

Also, where did you get that watts A-731? I went to home depot and they don't carry it. They had 730 and 732, but no 731, lol.
 

Attachments

C
#39 ·
1. Yes, that is the correct cap (Volvo 240 or 940, same cap).
After you drill the appropriate hole, the underside thingy will fall off, no worry, all you care is the cap.

2. I got my Watts A-731 from Menards hardware store.
Just generic plumbing stuff. I guess you can try local Ace hardware too.
 
M
#40 ·
CN90,

Probably a silly question, but can you just unplug the quick disconnect from the reservoir? i.e. it's under pressure from compressor--won't it spray everywhere? Silly question, I know, but...I don't know. :)

I'm replacing all 6 lines saturday and want to be prepared for everything.
 
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