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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #26  
Old 10-19-2009, 07:41 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kishg View Post
reverse bleeding is nonsense.. don't do it. use either a) a friend b) a motive or c) this diy i bleed brakes about once a month on the track car (before each event basically) using the motive as i frequently do it at home with no assistant around. works well. oh and i always put fluid in it. you DO NOT want air entering your ABS pump.
Actually the thread above by musa is not reverse bleeding.
It is basically sucking brake fluid out using vacuum (instead of pressurized air as in this thread).

Reverse Bleeding is basically applying pressurized air to the bleeding nipple and pushes brake fluid UPWARD into the reservoir. Now it is non-sense, I agree with you.
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  #27  
Old 10-19-2009, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Actually the thread above by musa is not reverse bleeding.
It is basically sucking brake fluid out using vacuum (instead of pressurized air as in this thread).

Reverse Bleeding is basically applying pressurized air to the bleeding nipple and pushes brake fluid UPWARD into the reservoir. Now it is non-sense, I agree with you.
i was referring to the latter method, however for the purposes of clearing out the lines in the system, the former method doesn't do the job right either. if your doing a flush as opposed to simply a bleed, the purpose is two-fold, one to clear air/dirt/debris from the brake system and two to refill with fresh fluid.
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  #28  
Old 03-09-2010, 12:41 PM
Takechan Takechan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
1. The classic way: 2-man technique:
One person depresses the brake pedal (with a small piece of wood under the brake pedal to prevent over-travel of the pedal) while the other person bleeds from the caliper.
The problem is: you need an assistant, which is not always available.
Could you damage something if you don't put something behind the pedal?

Oh and should the cap be on of off the reservoir when recruiting a friend to pump the pedal for you?
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  #29  
Old 03-09-2010, 06:12 PM
occhis occhis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Takechan View Post
Could you damage something if you don't put something behind the pedal?

Oh and should the cap be on of off the reservoir when recruiting a friend to pump the pedal for you?
Yes you can. I did so on an old Buick years ago. Ruined a 1 year old master cylinder while bleeding.
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  #30  
Old 03-09-2010, 08:39 PM
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TemporarySanity TemporarySanity is offline
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http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_hvpo.asp#
I have used this for years on many applications and have had good results.
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  #31  
Old 03-09-2010, 11:51 PM
Takechan Takechan is offline
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I'll put something behind the pedal, so it doesn't travel too far

Funny they didn't warn about it here:

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm
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  #32  
Old 07-01-2011, 08:40 PM
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doru doru is offline
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I bled today the brake fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I am actually very happy how everything went. Actually amazed how easy and simple it is.
I also changed the secondary air systems check valve & salmon relay. And new cabin filters.
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  #33  
Old 10-09-2011, 11:27 AM
vclifford vclifford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post

PS: I forgot to mention that my E39 can be bled with car on the ground, no need to lift it up. For FRONT wheels: turn wheel to opposite direction (For Right Front, turn wheel to LEFT to expose the bleeding nipple). The REAR Wheels are straightforward.
You rock man. I found this thread while googling for how to bleed my Honda Pilot and the problem with the lack of air tight cap. Incidentally I had even simpler Volvo240 cap plugged with a tire valve to be used with bicycle pump to bleed the system. I gave it to the guy (along with 2 more junkyard caps) to whom I sold it, who know it could be used in E39.

Now the question, did you mean that there is no need to remove the tires both front and back in case of E39. How about odyssey you were bleeding then, did you need to remove the tires ( pilot had lots of ground clearance but I am not sure if the bleeders are accessible)

Regards
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  #34  
Old 10-09-2011, 08:36 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vclifford View Post
You rock man. I found this thread while googling for how to bleed my Honda Pilot and the problem with the lack of air tight cap. Incidentally I had even simpler Volvo240 cap plugged with a tire valve to be used with bicycle pump to bleed the system. I gave it to the guy (along with 2 more junkyard caps) to whom I sold it, who know it could be used in E39.

Now the question, did you mean that there is no need to remove the tires both front and back in case of E39. How about odyssey you were bleeding then, did you need to remove the tires ( pilot had lots of ground clearance but I am not sure if the bleeders are accessible)

Regards
Correct but....

- E39: The REAR has enough clerance so no need to raise the REAR. However, drive the FRONT on some wood ramps, all you need is 3-4 inches raise. It is easier with the FRONT raised as shown:




- Your Honda Pilot is an SUV so by itself it has enough clearance. For the Honda, use the Universal cap that I posted a few threads above. It makes life 100 times easier. It was a breeze to bleed this way!
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  #35  
Old 10-10-2011, 04:58 AM
vclifford vclifford is offline
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Thank you.

Thank you.
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  #36  
Old 05-05-2012, 09:13 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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Great post/info CN90. I just ordered my cap. $4.49 and free shipping too.
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  #37  
Old 05-06-2012, 04:21 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbennett9 View Post
Great post/info CN90. I just ordered my cap. $4.49 and free shipping too.
Once you go this way, you never want to use any other tool.
- ATE Brake Cap $5.00. Air Fittings are cheap.
- Air compressor is free (if you already own it).
- Brake bleeding is a snap, very very very easy this way!

Last edited by cn90; 05-06-2012 at 04:24 AM.
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  #38  
Old 05-14-2012, 03:29 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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CN90,

Is the attached what your cap (underside) looked like? I ordered the right part number, but for volvo 940. Immediately emailed with the model I actually wanted, and Joe at FCP indicated it was ok. However, What I received doesn't looks right. I was expecting a flat underside.

Also, where did you get that watts A-731? I went to home depot and they don't carry it. They had 730 and 732, but no 731, lol.
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Last edited by mjbennett9; 05-14-2012 at 06:39 PM.
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  #39  
Old 05-14-2012, 07:59 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbennett9 View Post
CN90,

Is the attached what your cap (underside) looked like? I ordered the right part number, but for volvo 940. Immediately emailed with the model I actually wanted, and Joe at FCP indicated it was ok. However, What I received doesn't looks right. I was expecting a flat underside.

Also, where did you get that watts A-731? I went to home depot and they don't carry it. They had 730 and 732, but no 731, lol.
1. Yes, that is the correct cap (Volvo 240 or 940, same cap).
After you drill the appropriate hole, the underside thingy will fall off, no worry, all you care is the cap.

2. I got my Watts A-731 from Menards hardware store.
Just generic plumbing stuff. I guess you can try local Ace hardware too.
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  #40  
Old 05-17-2012, 04:12 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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CN90,

Probably a silly question, but can you just unplug the quick disconnect from the reservoir? i.e. it's under pressure from compressor--won't it spray everywhere? Silly question, I know, but...I don't know. :-)

I'm replacing all 6 lines saturday and want to be prepared for everything.
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  #41  
Old 05-17-2012, 06:43 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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I'm sure it's different store to store, but the Indiana Menard's told me they don't sell the A-731 nut anymore. It was replaced with AC-731. It's a rougher finish type nut--not smooth and shiny. But it should work. I'll be putting it together tomorrow night.
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  #42  
Old 05-17-2012, 06:51 PM
mjbennett9 mjbennett9 is offline
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[QUOTE=Max_VQ;4468199]

Max_VQ, what size hose is that on the bleeder nipple? I went to autozone and they didnd't know. I looked under the car and it looks about 1/8" outer dia. However, a 1/8" hose doesn't have a big enough inner dia., and a 1/4" hose is way too big.

I was going to try ACE tomorrow, or maybe advance auto.
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  #43  
Old 05-17-2012, 07:22 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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1. Yes, you can simply disconnect the quick-disconnect when filling brake fluid.
Remember the pressure is rather low, between 10-15 psi.
Do NOT exceed 15 psi.

2. The bleeder hose: go to any autoparts store, look at the bleeding kit ($5), it has the hose and container.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19200-Br.../dp/B0009OMY9M
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  #44  
Old 06-30-2012, 11:58 PM
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So i left my system open for a week with brake calipers removed and I forgot to pour fluid back into reservoir

When i came back after a week main reservoir was empty
( I know my bad , but i am doing it for the first time )

Now i installed new rotors, pads, rebuild calipers and bled the system with compressor under 15 psi ( CNN method )
All went smooth , no air bubbles but my pedal is soft and i have excessive brake pedal travel

I believe that is because reservoir was empty and i probably got air into the system

Tomorrow i will try to re-bleed my system +ABS with help of BMW software ( DIS )
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E39 4 ever

BMW E38/E39 Rear Axle/Differential Bush Tool

Last edited by champaign777; 07-01-2012 at 12:02 AM.
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  #45  
Old 07-01-2012, 05:09 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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Here we go with GT1

brake bleeding with GT1

stay tuned
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E39 4 ever

BMW E38/E39 Rear Axle/Differential Bush Tool

Last edited by champaign777; 07-01-2012 at 06:07 PM.
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  #46  
Old 07-02-2012, 09:50 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Igor,

Interesting program seen on your other thread.
I replied to that thread.

Thanks!
Jason
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  #47  
Old 07-02-2012, 03:26 PM
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champaign777 champaign777 is offline
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I ordered EBC Redstuff Ceramic (High Performance) Brake Pad Set

In the end i think Akebano Ultra Ceramic pads is the issue

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...ds-review.html

after OME Jurid pads these pads feel like a crap
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BMW E38/E39 Rear Axle/Differential Bush Tool

Last edited by champaign777; 07-03-2012 at 09:01 AM.
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  #48  
Old 08-12-2012, 12:00 PM
Scalpel Scalpel is offline
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cn90,

I used this setup with the Honda cap you made for your Odyssey to flush my civic brakes. Worked awesome. Brake pedal 100% better. Thanks for all your instructions!
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  #49  
Old 08-12-2012, 12:14 PM
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doru doru is offline
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Jason, you have the Stoptech pads? Which one? PosiQuiet semimetallic or PosiQuiet ceramic?
Can't find your post with the pads.

Cheers
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  #50  
Old 08-12-2012, 06:18 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doru View Post
Jason, you have the Stoptech pads? Which one? PosiQuiet semimetallic or PosiQuiet ceramic?
Can't find your post with the pads.

Cheers
Neither...
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1795311

http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...417&highlight=

I have noticed that Tire Rack no longer shows Stop Tech Performance brake pads on their site....
Weird....
I would call Tire Rack.

Please let me know if you need any more help.

Thanks!
Jason
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Last edited by Jason5driver; 08-12-2012 at 06:33 PM.
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