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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #1  
Old 09-15-2009, 12:53 PM
UltZeven UltZeven is offline
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Right rear wheel clicking noise?

Ok everyone,
I have an 02 745LI which has started making a clicking noise on the rear right wheel when driving. As I speed up the clicking noise becomes louder. About a week ago I was getting the 'change rear pads and disks' message on the IDrive. I had asked a friend about this and he said 'most likely it's because your pads are to the minimum and the brake shoe is rubbing the rotor.'
So today I took my car in and they changed the rear rotors and pads and the same clicking sound is still present. There is no play on the wheel bearing so I'm assuming it's not that.

Any clue?
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  #2  
Old 09-15-2009, 02:17 PM
Keif Keif is online now
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Big honkin' screw in the tire? I always seem to get lucky and locate those...I do it for everyone else on the road...so THEY don't get them in THEIR tires. I'm just that kind of guy (see: sucker). =]
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  #3  
Old 09-15-2009, 02:45 PM
Ryan M Ryan M is offline
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Originally Posted by UltZeven View Post
Ok everyone,
I have an 02 745LI which has started making a clicking noise on the rear right wheel when driving. As I speed up the clicking noise becomes louder. About a week ago I was getting the 'change rear pads and disks' message on the IDrive. I had asked a friend about this and he said 'most likely it's because your pads are to the minimum and the brake shoe is rubbing the rotor.'
So today I took my car in and they changed the rear rotors and pads and the same clicking sound is still present. There is no play on the wheel bearing so I'm assuming it's not that.

Any clue?
It wouldn't be the brakes. Shoes are only found on drum brakes, and you have disks, so you have pads. Unless you have a seized caliper, the pad shouldn't be touching the disk unless you have the brakes applied, so that wouldn't cause a clicking noise, whether they are worn or not. It sounds like either something is stuck in your tire, like a nail, or your ball joints are in need of replacing. They will often make a clicking noise that you describe.
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  #4  
Old 09-15-2009, 03:15 PM
roymorales roymorales is offline
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I have the same clicking sound but its in the left rear wheel. But mine only does it when i accelerate from a stop, once its rolling it doesn't make a sound. I am going to take it in for service within the next week or so, if i find out something before then I will post it up.
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  #5  
Old 09-15-2009, 03:22 PM
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tagsports tagsports is offline
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I had a buddy who had his TPM (tire pressure monitor) come off inside the tire. It would click has he rolled around at low speed but the clicking went away as he got up to speed and pinned the TPM against the inside of the tire. He and the dealer went nuts trying to figure out what it was. Finally found it when the tech bounced his tire on the floor. Likely not what you have but it was unusual and your comments made me think of it.
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  #6  
Old 09-15-2009, 04:38 PM
king0fspades king0fspades is offline
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May be that tire is separating. I had that kind of noise and I had to replace the tire.
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  #7  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:10 PM
UltZeven UltZeven is offline
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Thanks guys for all of your suggestions. It is definately not a TPM sensor because I've tried two different tires and got the same result. It also is not a nail in the tire, I took the tire off and checked it and nothing. Showed one of my buddies at work today and he says it might be the axle (is anyone familiar with the symptoms of a bad axle)? RyanM your suggestion sounds very plausible the noise coming from the ball joints.

The noise is driving me crazy, too bad the warranty has gone out the door. My odometer reads 101,000
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  #8  
Old 09-15-2009, 09:23 PM
Keif Keif is online now
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A thought: stick it on a dyno type setup (any emissions shop should have it) and see if you can pinpoint the location of the click. I'd lean toward the bearing, shown as #2 here.
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Last edited by Keif; 09-15-2009 at 09:26 PM.
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  #9  
Old 09-15-2009, 10:51 PM
Ryan M Ryan M is offline
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Originally Posted by UltZeven View Post
Thanks guys for all of your suggestions. It is definately not a TPM sensor because I've tried two different tires and got the same result. It also is not a nail in the tire, I took the tire off and checked it and nothing. Showed one of my buddies at work today and he says it might be the axle (is anyone familiar with the symptoms of a bad axle)? RyanM your suggestion sounds very plausible the noise coming from the ball joints.

The noise is driving me crazy, too bad the warranty has gone out the door. My odometer reads 101,000
To say that the "axel is bad" is a very vague statement. What in particular? Also, the e65/66 don't have an axel per se, the rear end is made up of two half shafts with cv joints connecting them to the final drive output shafts. Now if this were a mustang, with a solid rear, then it would be a different story. But your friend may have been suggesting that it was a bad rear wheel bearing or cv joint.
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  #10  
Old 09-16-2009, 01:15 AM
UltZeven UltZeven is offline
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Keif and Ryan M thanks alot guys. Today if I get a little opening in my schedule I'll head over to a shop where they have a dyno tester and I'll check it out. Thanks for the diagram Keif. I'll keep you guys informed.
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  #11  
Old 09-17-2009, 02:39 AM
UltZeven UltZeven is offline
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So today I could not make it to the dyno, so I opted for some DIY. Lifted the car from the back and put it on jack stands, put it on drive and could hear the clicking. Checked under the car and it sounded like the noise was from the right rear brakes. Took the tire off, put it on drive and voila! NO CLICKING, but I could hear a low scrapping noise, also noticed that when on drive it looks like the brake pad is touching the rotor, sounds like BRAKE DRAG right? So I put the spare tire on just to see what would happen and I put it on drive and CLICK, CLICK, CLICK, CLICK. My patience grew thin, lowered it called it quits, showered and took off to work.
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:01 AM
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sometimes the rotor shield gets in the way...its right behind the rotor and makes a similar clicking and scraping sound.

when you take the wheel off it releases pressure off the rotor and probably does not scrap whatever that was scraping anymore,

what you can do is just get a longer screw driver and go in b/w the wheel spokes and just nudge the shield all around and hopefully thats it.
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2009, 10:21 AM
alex0404 alex0404 is offline
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Its normal. Alot of members have the same problem, so do I.

Imagine 20 7's coming down the block at the same time.

CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICKCLICK CLICK CLACK CLICK CLACK
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:36 AM
UltZeven UltZeven is offline
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"sometimes the rotor shield gets in the way...its right behind the rotor and makes a similar clicking and scraping sound.

when you take the wheel off it releases pressure off the rotor and probably does not scrap whatever that was scraping anymore,

what you can do is just get a longer screw driver and go in b/w the wheel spokes and just nudge the shield all around and hopefully thats it."

Thanks Robohopar I'll give that a try and I'll let you guys know if it worked.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:57 PM
Keif Keif is online now
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You'd likely bend the crap out of those weak shields if anything big was rubbing, and it would make contact with the rotor before anything, so you'd see some obvious scorching or wearing on the shield. Again, I'm voting bearings, and fortunately they look really easy to replace.
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:21 PM
Ryan M Ryan M is offline
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You'd likely bend the crap out of those weak shields if anything big was rubbing, and it would make contact with the rotor before anything, so you'd see some obvious scorching or wearing on the shield. Again, I'm voting bearings, and fortunately they look really easy to replace.
Looks can be deceiving. They aren't.
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  #17  
Old 09-17-2009, 03:28 PM
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Mr_Burger Mr_Burger is offline
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Probably of no use to you at all, as my clicking came from the offside front wheel (UK 760Li), but it's worth a shot...

I removed the wheel and calipers and confirmed the click click by hand, so all you're left with is the bearing at the front..

The stealer insisted it wasn't the bearing as they don't normally click...I told them if they followed the above logic it couldn't be anything but the bearing..

Anyways, later that day they reported a bad bearing and swapped it out under warranty. The clicking was resolved. End of Story
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:39 PM
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Looks can be deceiving. They aren't.
Which part is difficult? I was thinking about doing all four soon since I took mine swimming a year ago.
 
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Old 09-17-2009, 09:30 PM
Ryan M Ryan M is offline
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Which part is difficult? I was thinking about doing all four soon since I took mine swimming a year ago.
 
Breaking the nut free, which is the first step, is torqued to 420NM. It will be even more difficult if you live up north where they might be corroded on. Air tools are pretty much a necessity. Then you have to remove the inner race with special tools, and then you can remove the bearing. It's not as easy as the fronts, and take a lot of patience.
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:04 AM
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Are the fronts easy?
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:51 AM
Ryan M Ryan M is offline
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Are the fronts easy?
That all depends on your skill level and what kind of tools you have, but it's not too difficult. You will have to remove the wheel, caliper, and brake disc. Then, you need to pop the ball joints to remove the tension strut, control arm, and tie rod which are all connected to the steering knuckle (which BMW calls a swivel bearing). Then spread the opening in the knuckle apart and slide it off the strut housing. This will give you access to all 4 bolts on the back of the bearing.
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:18 PM
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Any idea if you could use spring compressors and then slide the strut out without breaking the ball joints, etc. (with the goal of removing the bearing without pulling the knuckle off the car)? ...or would you be unable to get to the 4 bolts without popping off the ball joint, etc. / taking the spindle out?
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:46 PM
Ryan M Ryan M is offline
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Any idea if you could use spring compressors and then slide the strut out without breaking the ball joints, etc. (with the goal of removing the bearing without pulling the knuckle off the car)? ...or would you be unable to get to the 4 bolts without popping off the ball joint, etc. / taking the spindle out?
As far as removing the knuckle, sometimes you can leave the ball joints intact and just slide the knuckle down, which will allow you to access all 4 bolts on the bearing. And some you need to remove the ball joints or you won't have enough clearance even with the knuckle pulled all the way down. Each model is different because of different suspension setups. You just want to be really careful that you don't tear the boots on the ball joints because then the grease will leak out and you'll ruin them. I have done front bearings on many different BMW models, and some you can get away with leaving the ball joints on and some you must take them off. Don't recall ever doing front bearings on a 7 series though. I'm just saying to take them off because that's what the repair instructions on BMW's website says to do. You'll have to just dive into it.
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2009, 04:27 PM
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Can you provide a link to the website?

Thanks
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Old 11-21-2009, 06:20 PM
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