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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-20-2009, 05:59 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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DIY for programming the Homelink Garage Door Opener (GDO) in the BMW E39

DIY for programming the Homelink Garage Door Opener (GDO)...

Surprisingly, I had trouble finding concise instructions in one spot for programming the BMW Homelink Garage Door Opener (GDO) in my 2002 BMW E39 so I re-wrote what I found out here as a GDO DIY.

Programming information can be found in this generic Homelink video.

BATTERY:
'They say" it is best to have a strong battery in the remote before you program your Homelink transmitter in your BMW overhead. The reason 'they say' this is because it's a recording; weak signal in === weak signals out ('they say'). Anyone with proof ... or logic ... please advise.

RESET PROGRAMMING MODE:
You do not need to reset but you might wish to erase all buttons when you obtain the car or sell the car.

To reset all three Homelink buttons at once:
1. Set the ignition with your key to the ACC2 position (no need to start the engine).
2. Simultaneously press and hold the two outside buttons (#1 and #3) of your Homelink control unit
3. Keep holding both outside buttons until the Homelink LED flashes rapidly (this will take about 20 seconds).
That's it; the old settings are now wiped out for all three buttons.
Note: Do not repeat this step unless you wish to wipe out all existing settings!).

RE-PROGRAM PROGRAMMING MODE:
0. You can program the Homelink after a reset or you must put the Homelink into "programming mode".

1. To put the Homelink buttons into programming mode, press the desired button that you would like to reprogram and keep it pressed until the LED starts to flash slowly.

2. Let the LED flash slowly for about 20 seconds.

3. Only then (after the LED flashes slowly for about 20 seconds) should you release the button.

The Homelink system is now in programming mode.

Note: You will have five minutes to carry out the re-programming.


PROGRAMMING FOR STANDARD CODES:
This first procedure assumes a fixed code GDO (not rolling codes - instructions for which will come later).

0. Position your hand-held remote transmitter 1 to 3 inches away from the HomeLink surface (located on your overhead sunroof panel), keeping the HomeLink indicator light in view (the closer the better in most cases).

1. Using both hands, simultaneously press and hold both the desired HomeLink button (e.g., button #1) and the hand held remote's transmitter button.

2. DO NOT release both buttons until the HomeLink indicator light flashes slowly and then rapidly.

3. When the Homelink indicator light flashes rapidly, both buttons may be released.

That's it (if you have a simple GDO); the rapid flashing indicates successful training of Homelink.

Note: Apparently "Canadian Instructions" are slightly different; go figure.

HOW TO TELL IF YOU HAVE ROLLING CODES: (i.e., encrypted codes)
1. Press and hold the now-trained HomeLink button and observe the indicator light.

a) If the Homelink indicator light is solid and continuous, training is complete and your garage door should activate when the HomeLink button is momentarily pressed and released.

b) If the indicator light blinks rapidly for 2 seconds and then turns to a solid and continuous light, proceed with the following training instructions for a rolling code device.

Note: A second person may make the following steps quicker and easier. Please use a ladder or other device. The Homelink people warn "Do not stand on your vehicle to perform the next steps" (duh).

PROGRAMMING FOR ROLLING CODES:
0. Apparently, you have to do the non-rolling code stuff above first; then, if you find you have rolling codes (based on the indicator light action described in 1b avove), then proceed as described below ...

1. At the garage door opener receiver (aka, at the motorhead unit) in the garage, locate the "learn" or "smart" button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, reference the garage door opener's manual or contact Homelink at +1-
800-355-3515.

2. Press and release the "learn" or "smart" button (the name and color of the button may vary by manufacturer but a black button with a red LED is common).

NOTE: Once the button is pressed, you generally have about 30 seconds in which to initiate the next step.

3. Return to the BMW and firmly press and hold the previously trained HomeLink button for three seconds & then release.

4. Do step 3 again (they actually told me to do this when I called for help).

5. Do step 3 yet another time (just to be sure).

6. HomeLink should now activate your garage door with rolling codes.

Note: You can re-program any button at any time. If this procedure fails, you can call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help (which is what I did and where additional steps above were added and a lot of my description was improved).


PLACEMENT:
1. To train, some remotes must be placed directly in front of the transmitter.

2. Others at a distance of up to 30 centimeters

3. In my case, I placed the remote transmitter right next to the BMW Homelink roof panel, actually touching the panel (that's what the Homelink Customer Support guy said to do - and it worked).

Note: Make sure your battery in the remote is good. This may be an old wives' tale but 'they say' it's like a tape recording'; low-volume in, low-volume out.

TESTING:
1. Press the Homelink button you have now programmed.

2. If the LED is constantly lit, you have successfully concluded the programming.

3. You also should see the garage door opening (duh).


Here are some more details on programming and troubleshooting the Homelink system on the BMW:

RANGE PROBLEMS:
Poor range can be caused by interference around or near the vehicle or due to the use of older batteries in the original transmitter during programming.
  • Put a new battery in your hand-held transmitter. Training the HomeLink takes more power from the battery than when you push the button to open the door. Sometimes by putting a new battery in the hand-held transmitter, it does help pick up a better train and increases the range.
  • Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink.
  • Try a second transmitter with new batteries.
  • Straighten the antenna wire that hangs down from the garage door opener motorhead.
FREQUENCY:
HomeLink is an integrated transceiver (a transmitter and receiver) that can be programmed to activate radio frequency (RF) devices such as garage doors, estate/community gates, entry door locks, home/office lighting, or other RF devices.

HomeLink is compatible with radio-frequency devices operating between 288 and 399 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 322-335 MHz range). Select 2007 and newer vehicles are compatible up to 433 MHz (exclusive of the restricted 400-410 MHz range).

COMPATIBILITY:
Please contact us by email or phone (1-800-355-3515) to verify vehicle compatibility.

TROUBLESHOOTING:
You can either call our customer service number (1-800-355-3515) or contact us by email for complete programming assistance. First try the following troubleshooting tips:
  • Check the frequency of the device's hand-held transmitter (usually found on the back). HomeLink is compatible with radio-frequency devices operating between 288-399MHz (some 2007 and newer vehicles may be compatible up to 433MHz. Please contact us for vehicle compatibility).
  • Put a brand new, store bought battery in the hand-held transmitter. During the programming process the battery's energy tends to drain (more so with an older battery). A new battery will increase the speed and accuracy in which the hand-held transmitter sends its signal to HomeLink.
  • Retrain HomeLink holding the hand-held transmitter at different lengths and angles from the HomeLink button you are trying to program. Try 4-6 inches away at a different angle.
  • Cycle the hand-held transmitter during programming: Press and hold the HomeLink button while you press and release the hand-held transmitter every 2 seconds until the indicator light changes from a slow blink to a rapid flash.
  • To verify HomeLink has programmed, press and hold the HomeLink button and observe the indicator light:
    • If the indicator light remains solid, it has picked up the signal and should operate the device.
    • If the indicator light blinks rapidly for two seconds and turns solid, HomeLink has successfully picked up the rolling code signal. Please follow the rolling code instructions outlined in the "programming a garage door opener" section to complete the process.
    • If the indicator light remains a slow blink, HomeLink has not picked up the signal from the hand-held remote. Try programming the button again or choose another button to program.
PROGRAMMING FOR A PRE-1982 GARAGE DOOR:
As long as the garage door opener is in the same frequency band (288-433 MHz*), HomeLink can be programmed to this older unit. However, frequencies of some older openers can shift outside of the HomeLink operating band, and become incompatible. The best way to program an older garage door opener is:

1) Put NEW batteries in the original transmitter and
2) Hold the original transmitter between one and three inches away from the HomeLink surface until HomeLink learns the signal (refer to our programming section for complete instructions).

If HomeLink has not picked up the signal within a few seconds, position the original transmitter at different lengths and angles.

If these suggestions do not work, you may have a problem with the garage door opener itself. If you chose to contact a garage door opener service technician, be aware that, under FCC regulations, they or anyone else are unable to service the device if it was manufactured before 1982. Many garage door openers manufactured before 1982 do not have the safety stop-and-reverse feature which is now required by law. Some states (NY, IN, CA, MN) require service technicians to totally disable the opener if they find it to be malfunctioning.

WHAT IF I DON'T HAVE A HAND-HELD REMOTE GDO?
You have to have a hand-held transmitter to program HomeLink.

KEELOQ-based Rolling Code Garage Door Openers:
The HomeLink unit uses Microchip's KEELOQ rolling code technology to access some brands of garage door openers. Every KEELOQ-based HomeLink transmission includes 5 parts:
  1. Serial Number
  2. Button/Function Code
  3. Status Code
  4. Counter Value
  5. Discrimination Bits
In a given message to be transmitted, these portions are organized as follows:********>********>*******>********>*******>********> *******> ********>
Unencrypted Encrypted
Status
Code
Button
Code
Serial
Number
Button
Code
Discrimination
Bits
Counter
Value
The HomeLink unit transmits an unencrypted portion and an encrypted portion. The message is transmitted starting with the bit furthest to the right in the above figure and ending with the first bit furthest to the left.

Unencrypted Portion of the Transmission
The unencrypted portion of the transmission includes the status code, the button code, and the serial number.

Serial Number (24 or 28 bits).
Each HomeLink unit has a serial number which the garage door opener reads to distinguish the HomeLink unit from other HomeLink units or other transmitters. The serial number can be 24 or 28 bits long, depending on the garage door opener system, and the lower 8 bits are used to form the discrimination bits. The serial number is loaded from memory for each transmission.

If all else fails, call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help - and write back here what you found out.
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Last edited by bluebee; 08-17-2009 at 06:06 PM. Reason: Updating as new information comes in so that a single post contains mostly what a newbie needs
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  #2  
Old 07-20-2009, 06:10 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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BMW offered the Homelink UGDO in the mirror for many 3 series cars and convertibles...or as an accessory that could be purchased later for cars that didn't have this feature as standard equipment. In the (e39/e38) 5 & 7 sedans...the Homelink UGDO transmitter is located in the sunroof access panel.

In fact, if you have an e39 that didn't come with the premium pkg...you probably don't have the UGDO in the panel...but more than likely...there's a 3 pin wiring harness tucked above the headliner behind the access panel. The 3 pin/3 wire connector will be the WHITE one (on older e39s...like 1996/97 build date..the connector may be white & black and will only have TWO wires running to it because the early UGDOs were NOT illuminated).

If you remove the panel to look for the additional wiring harness up there...you'll probably run into another 3 pin/3 wire connector that is BLACK...that connector is for the microphone for if the car was equipped with a phone...don't try to connect the black connector to the UGDO...it won't fit because the connector is not designed the same way.

The e39's Homelink UGDO (universal garage door opener) is usually in the sunroof panel...it is the switch with the 3 buttons and the Homelink icon on it (sorry for the huge pic...its the only one I have of the UGDO):

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2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

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Last edited by QSilver7; 07-21-2009 at 07:03 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-20-2009, 10:45 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
In the (e39/e38) 5 & 7 sedans...the Homelink UGDO transmitter is located in the sunroof access panel.
Thanks. I added this important detail to the DIY above.
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2009, 10:53 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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There is a lot of weird stuff in the original Homelink PDF for BMW but I still wanted to make it available to you in case you need it.

For example, I wanted to post the homelink PDF instructions themselves (as a PDF in case they go away) but I could not shrink the PDF enough to fit under 1MB.

So, here are screenshots of those homelink instructions so that others can benefit from the DIY should they need the programming instructions direct from the manufacturer.

Notice that there is special DIAGNOSTIC procedures which I don't recall seeing on Bimmerfest prior.

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Last edited by bluebee; 07-20-2009 at 11:18 PM.
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2009, 11:04 PM
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QSilver7 QSilver7 is offline
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Thanks for taking the time to "shrink" my huge UGDO pic.
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Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #6  
Old 07-20-2009, 11:22 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
Thanks for taking the time to "shrink" my huge UGDO pic.
No problem. You've helped me and many others immensely. I was just looking for instructions to program my GDO and, well, whenever I have to search, I figure others do too, and, well, if I can summarize, then, well, others can benefit from the summary (or so the theory goes).

After looking this up, I think this link is probably the best single URL to refer people to if they need to program their Homelink system because they'll get specific instructions for whatever BMW they currently own (Canada, Europe, USA, etc.).

BTW, you might want to edit the big-pic post and just add the shrunken picture as the reference so that it prints nicer for others though.
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  #7  
Old 07-21-2009, 01:12 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Drat. After all this. It didn't work when I got home and tried the new doors. I must have "rolling codes" ... will have to dig more ... Sigh.
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:14 PM
andyffer andyffer is offline
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hahahahah that sucks. Sorry I cant help
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Drat. After all this. It didn't work when I got home and tried the new doors. I must have "rolling codes" ... will have to dig more ... Sigh.
Bluebee...can you give us some more details as to what you did to program it and what UGDO you have (rearview mirror or sunroof panel module)? Also, what type of GDO (g/door) do you have? Does it have the safety beam that if you cross it the door reverses?

If you picked up a used Homelink UGDO and it has a red LED when you press the buttons...and your g/door has rolling codes...then it won't work. The early UGDOs (w/red LED) will only operate old g/doors that were built before 1992 (I believe that is the year). If your UGDO has a green or amber LED....then it can handle rolling code g/doors.
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg
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  #10  
Old 07-29-2009, 12:57 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
If you picked up a used Homelink UGDO and it has a red LED when you press the buttons...and your g/door has rolling codes...then it won't work.
Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I didn't see this. It is interesting that a used homelink is different than a factory installed one; that's something for the DIY so others benefit.

In my case, it's the factory-installed Homelink. It has the three buttons in the sunroof panel. The garage door is a Genie (800-354-3643). The house was renovated in 1993 and has all the safety-beam features in the doors.

What I'm gonna do if/when I get home during business hours is:
a) Print out this thread and follow the advice exactly (it's a good test)
b) If that fails, I'll call Homelink technical support 800-355-3515
c) I'll post back the results (and lessons learned) when done.
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Old 07-29-2009, 03:51 PM
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Hey Bluebee...with the info you just gave...I bet you'll have to clear your Homelink (pressing the 1st & 3rd button till it flashes real fast)...then press the button on the back of your home's GDO that's hanging from the ceiling of the garage...then get back to the car real fast and press & hold the button of you choice until it gives the appropriate flashes on your Homelink.

If you have the type of GDO (hanging from the ceiling) that has the programmable button built into it to "train" remotes...be careful and make sure that the car is all the way in the garage and not half in/half out... if you have someone to help...it would make it easier and safer.

I just upgraded my 97 e38 with the newer Homelink from somone parting an 01 e38. My 97 e38 had the older Homelink that had the red LED and was also NOT illuminated. My 99 e39 has the newer illuminated HOMELINK (has green LED)...so I really began to hate the "Helen Keller" older version that made me have to fumble & fiddle with the buttons when arriving home in the dark. I had to add an extra wire to the 97 e38's electrical harness (for the illumination)...but after everything was hooked up...it took less than 1 minute to program the new Homelink
__________________
Q {BMW CCA Member #191509}
2006 E53 X5 4.4i (Sterling Gray) 12/05 mfg date <<~>> 97 740iL (Arctic Silver) 3/97 mfg date
(SOLD)
99 540iT (Orient Blue) <<~>> 95 525IT (Alpine White)
91 735iL (Schwarz Black) <<~>> 85 325e (Bronzit)

http://imageshack.com/scaled/grid240/822/e38e532ndsigpic.jpg

Last edited by QSilver7; 07-29-2009 at 03:53 PM.
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  #12  
Old 08-07-2009, 06:59 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
I bet you'll have to clear your Homelink (pressing the 1st & 3rd button till it flashes real fast)...then press the button on the back of your home's GDO that's hanging from the ceiling of the garage...then get back to the car real fast and press & hold the button of you choice until it gives the appropriate flashes on your Homelink.
You were soooooo right! I finally got all the Homelink buttons to work just fine. I had to call the Homelink guys who walked me right through it.

I think the secret was step 3, 4, and 5 below!
Instead of just pressing the button, you have to PRESS AND HOLD the button (for three seconds!).
that was the trick!

When I did that (three times), it finally worked!

Voila!

To help others, I updated the DIY just now (see this updated link).


HOW TO TELL IF YOU HAVE ROLLING CODES: (i.e., encrypted codes)
1. Press and hold the now-trained HomeLink button and observe the indicator light.

a) If the Homelink indicator light is solid and continuous, training is complete and your garage door should activate when the HomeLink button is momentarily pressed and released.

b) If the indicator light blinks rapidly for 2 seconds and then turns to a solid and continuous light, proceed with the following training instructions for a rolling code device.

Note: A second person may make the following steps quicker and easier. Please use a ladder or other device. Do not stand on your vehicle to perform the next steps.

PROGRAMMING FOR ROLLING CODES:
1. At the garage door opener receiver (aka, at the motorhead unit) in the garage, locate the "learn" or "smart" button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, reference the garage door opener's manual or contact Homelink at +1-
800-355-3515.

2. Press and release the "learn" or "smart" button (the name and color of the button may vary by manufacturer but a black button with a red LED is common).

NOTE: Once the button is pressed, you generally have about 30 seconds in which to initiate the next step.

3. Return to the BMW and firmly press and hold the previously trained HomeLink button for three seconds & then release.

4. Do step 3 again (they actually told me to do this when I called for help).

5. Do step 3 yet another time (this is the step that finally worked for me!)

6. HomeLink should now activate your garage door with rolling codes.

Note: You can re-program any button at any time. If this procedure fails, you can call Homelink at 1-800-355-3515 for help (which is what I did and where additional steps above were added and a lot of my description was improved so that newbies could start where I left off).

Last edited by bluebee; 08-14-2009 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 07:03 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Woo hoo! The garage doors now open with buttons 1 and 2 on the Homelink.

Now it's time for the driveway gate!

Does anyone have their Homelink operating a GTO MightyMule gate?

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Old 08-14-2009, 11:47 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Does anyone have their Homelink operating a GTO MightyMule gate? Are the steps the same?
To report back, the answer was not intuitive! (but now I know how to break into people's homes and garages!)

The GTO people (800-543-4283) told me there is no way to program the Homelink from the GTO keypad.
The Homelink people (800-355-3515) told me the same thing; I had to have a remote to program the Homelink.
But, all I had was the GTO keypad; I did not have a remote for the GTO gate opener.

Luckily the GTO people told me that I could buy a GTO remote at Home Depot for $32.
So, I bought a GTO remote at Home Depot; I flipped the DIP switches for the GTO remote to set the code; and I programmed the GTO gate opener to the remote by pressing the learn button on the gate opener.

Note: Yes, this seems backward; instead of programming the remote to the GTO, you program the GTO to the remote.(If I had known it was that simple to open people's gates, I would have become a professional burgler).

Once I had the (now useless) GTO remote working to open the gate, then (and only then) could I program the Homelink to the remote so that it would open the gate. This reverse logic is not intuitive (to me anyway) so I hope the next person benefits from this documentation effort.

Unfortunately, I didn't have this Homelink-DIY printout with me so I called the Homelink hotline and their voice prompts walked me through all the steps to program my BMW Homelink to the GTO remote. I never needed a human on the phone. Luckily the GTO gate doesn't use those nasty "rolling codes", so, it was all programmed, while I was driving, one finger on the remote, the other on the Homelink button. Surprisingly, the gate opened from the BMW Homelink button when I got home last night.

For some reason, the GTO keypad stopped working so I'll call the GTO people to get that up and running again.


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Last edited by bluebee; 08-14-2009 at 12:18 PM.
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  #15  
Old 08-14-2009, 06:57 PM
tomr tomr is offline
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Smile homelink programing

Thanks for the write up. I couldn't figure it out from the owners manual. Your instructions worked 1st time!

Tomr
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  #16  
Old 08-17-2009, 06:00 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomr View Post
Your instructions worked 1st time!
Wow. Thanks. I always ask for help here and, well, feeling a bit guilty (like I'm taking more than I give back in return), it's kind'a nice to help someone else. Makes me feel good! Thanks.

Good luck!
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  #17  
Old 08-17-2009, 07:23 PM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Wow, slight security flaw….
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  #18  
Old 08-20-2009, 04:49 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_n00b13 View Post
Wow, slight security flaw…....
Yea. Anyone can buy a GTO remote, open the box to their neighbor's gate opener (mine is in the OUTSIDE of the gate), and hit the "learn" button. Voila! Instant burgler!

It's actually harder to get the homelink to work though.

After a few days, everything is working ... but the range is atrocious. I have to sometimes nudge the BMW grill almost touching the gate and then repeatedly press the Homelink button and then quickly back off before the gate hits the hood.

I'm going to have to retrain based on the Homelink-provided instructions for increasing the range!

THREE SOLUTIONS TO HOMELINK RANGE PROBLEMS:
1. Poor range can be caused by interference around or near the vehicle
2. Or by a bent antenna (straighten the opener's receiving antenna)
3. Or by low batteries in the original transmitter during programming
4. Or by training the Homelink too close to the receiver (go figure).

In my situation:
1. I don't think there's any undue interference (from what?)
2. The antenna is sticking up straight at the post so I don't think it's this
3. The original transmitter is brand new (so it's not likely the batteries)
4. That only leaves a re-training from further away (go figure)

I'm gonna try the third approach and retrain as follows:
  • Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink.
I'll let you know if this retraining-at-distance increases the range.

I did call GTO Incorporated (800-543-4283, www.gtoinc.com) to see if there is a way to increase the sensitivity of the receiver from the receiving end - but they said the only thing I could do was move the receiver further from the control board and closer to the car or replace the receiver itself (assuming it's defective).

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Last edited by bluebee; 08-20-2009 at 05:06 PM.
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  #19  
Old 08-21-2009, 12:00 PM
chasvs1201 chasvs1201 is offline
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I've tried all these recommendations but all I ever get ( starting with trying to erase codes) is a rapidly flashing diode ( light). No matter what i press the light flashed rapidly I just installed a UGDO mirror with Autodim from a 7 series onto my 07 X3. The Autodim works fine and obviously I've gotten power to the home link as the light now flashes but I can't get anything programmed. Any ideas beyond a faulty transmitter?
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  #20  
Old 09-19-2009, 05:33 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasvs1201 View Post
I've tried all these recommendations. Any ideas beyond a faulty transmitter?
I think you have to first call the people at Homelink (800-355-3515) before you conclude you have a faulty transmitter.

They are VERY helpful!
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  #21  
Old 10-08-2009, 04:53 PM
JimTrout JimTrout is offline
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thanks BlueBee!

I've had off and on issues getting the garage door in my new home to program. I finally thought to check Bimmerfest! And the first search turned up the answer. Very well written DIY and easy to implement after not so concise instructions from the manual. After futile searches elsewhere I should have realized where the answer would be.
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  #22  
Old 10-12-2009, 03:05 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimTrout View Post
Very well written DIY and easy to implement after not so concise instructions from the manual. After futile searches elsewhere I should have realized where the answer would be.
Thanks. It makes me feel good to help others, which is why I spend the time to write these things up (I wish I could do more by way of DIYs, like cn90 does, for example - but I'm limited to the simpler things)...

I did run through each step which is why they're written that way, after I too had problems with the instructions originally provided.

Glad to be of service!
Bluebee
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  #23  
Old 02-01-2010, 05:14 PM
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craigmack1 craigmack1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QSilver7 View Post
...you'll probably run into another 3 pin/3 wire connector that is BLACK...that connector is for the microphone for if the car was equipped with a phone...don't try to connect the black connector to the UGDO...
Just added the opener to my E39 and sure enough, the first thing I ran into was the black connector. The white one was more hidden. Thanks for this very important info Q. I was about to start rigging the wires to my cigarette lighter or something!

BTW...my procedure (rolling codes) was:
1) clear the old codes, as listed above.
2) hold down the BMW GDO button I was training for about ten seconds, and then (without releasing the BMW button) depress the old transmitter until the BMW GDO started blinking quickly.

That was it.
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  #24  
Old 07-23-2011, 10:17 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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As a related aside, this from PC World magazine, is interesting reading on boosting the power of the key fob garage door opener range by 40 feet:
- Boost Your Car's Key Fob Range (by Pointing It at Your Head)
Quote:
Boost Your Car's Key Fob Range (by Pointing It at Your Head)

Tech urban legend says that you can increase your car's key fob by strategically pointing it at your head--something to do with the shape of your skull acting as a directional antenna of sorts. Skeptical? So were we--until we tested it with PCWorld Editorial Director Steve Fox's car in our parking lot.
First, we tried to establish the key fob's maximum range with a standard grip while maintaining a line-of-sight connection--which turned out to be about 100 feet from the car. At that distance, we found, the car responded to 1 of every 20 to 30 button presses. Then we had four different staffers lock and unlock the car while pointing the key fob at our heads, either holding it up against the bottom of our chins or pointing it at our temples (as though we were playing Russian Roulette). To our surprise, this method enabled us to move an additional 40 feet or so away from the car and still get effective performance from the key fob; at that point we reached the wall of the parking lot, putting an end to the experiment. Different people achieved their best results by holding the key fob at different parts of their head--presumably because the shapes of their skulls differed--but the trick clearly was effective.
The verdict: Well, it worked for us. Try it yourself if you don't believe us.
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  #25  
Old 02-21-2012, 01:06 PM
thumpergogo thumpergogo is offline
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Worked Great

Hi,

New to the forum. 2001 BMW 740i Sport. Found this thread off Google. I had the revolving code and didn't realize you had to "prep" the Homelink prior to the Learn button approach. Followed your steps and worked great. Weird that one opener took just 1 cycle to do and the other took 2. Oh well. Thanks again for the post.
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