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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 10-11-2009, 11:14 AM
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mmm635 mmm635 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw_n00b13 View Post
Are there pictures of the BMW tool? How is it different?
I will have to find one. It looks very similar and has an extra jaw. However, the real difference is in the construction - it is very stout forged German steel and is very heavy duty. Trust me, it will not break like a HB or other tools.

http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as...W312240&CTMP=1

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Last edited by mmm635; 10-11-2009 at 11:25 AM.
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  #102  
Old 10-11-2009, 11:35 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Also, the key thing when spraying WD-40 or PB Blaster is that:

- For Control Arm with the bolt pointing UPWARD, this is easy, just spray along the bolt and the oil will drip down the bolt into the steering knuckle.

- For Thrust Arm with the bolt pointing DOWNWARD, lift the rubber boot up a bit and spray WD-40 or PB Blaster below the rubber boot. Just common sense thing, oil flows down by gravity into the steering knuckle.

I think if poolman applies the HF Tool and crank it to 90-100 Nm, then with a little heat from the Propane Torch (not as much as soldering a plumbing copper union) for a few minutes, it should come out. They key thing is :applyu force then heat.

Another thought is for stubborn ball joints, removing the ENTIRE knuckle from the car and place it on a 2 x 4 piece pf wood and bang it at the correct location (leave the nut flushed with the bolt, it will be much easier).
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  #103  
Old 10-11-2009, 02:44 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Poolman...
WOW!
Didn't know you were tackling this...
Best of luck!
What Bilsteins did you get?
The HD's or the Sports?

I really think the Harbor Freight tool works well, although I have not used it on the front thrust arms, I have only used it on the tie rods.
However, the tool worked amazingly!
IMO, positioning of the tool is EVERYTHING!
The tool needs to angled just right.
I also used a 3 lb hammer to smack the fork part between the arm and the steering knuckle.
PB Blaster is your friend. LOL!
Also make sure the wheels are turned so that there is no stress against the control arms.
Let me know!
Or give me a call!
Thanks!
Jason
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Last edited by Jason5driver; 10-11-2009 at 02:47 PM.
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  #104  
Old 10-11-2009, 02:54 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Here's the update--I have the struts and wheelbearings installed--have buttoned everything back up and all's well--the bushings in the thrust arms looked great--no evidence of oil leakage--the bushings on the control arm that I removed from the frame looked great--so all's tqed back into speck
Took the car out on the highway--ran up to about 90 and alls smooth--breaks work great and no shimmy and no bearing noise--the cars is nice and smooth and when I hit the brakes the car stays flat on the road--
Then took the car on a squirrely little road with lots of bumps and such with major turns--cars nice and flat
no sway and steering is much more responcive---
Bottom line--I'll wait for a while and check ito this a little further and come up with a new plan--main thing is
alls well and I love these new struts--what a difference--couldn't belive how bad the juck those old struts were.
Thanks for all the ideas guys--and I guess that this might help someone also down the road.
Oh yeah--on the nut that goes on the top of the strut--I used the old ones from my old struts and with a 13/16
spark plug socket I had no problem reuseing them.
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  #105  
Old 10-11-2009, 05:04 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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poolman,

I have another idea:



If you look at the picture above, you can remove the ball joint nut, then remove the brake rotor shield, then using a file or dremmel or something similar, grind both sides of the bolt to turn the bolt into 2 flat sides so an adjustable wrench can fit, then rotate the bolt.

The ball joint bolt may resist the upward or downard motion but will NOT resist the rotation if you have the leverage to rotate the bolt.

Once you rotate to bolt, it will come out alone or with the sleeve as mmm635 showed you.

Last edited by cn90; 10-11-2009 at 05:32 PM.
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  #106  
Old 10-12-2009, 06:43 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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As always --thanks CN90--will give this another go when the time becomes right---my son was home for a 4 day break--and the wife was away for 4 days---that doesn't happen often--which gives me the perfect time
to do little projects like this while not being distracted by outside elements--my son likes helping--my wife likes
to fuss---if I need something the boy can go get it--anyway the car is doing great---
Jason--I bought the heavy duty struts and thanks to CN90's excellent documentation--alls well.
One thing I did that I should mention--once I had the right side down to take the wheel bearings out--I removed the dust cover from the knuckle for better acess--I forgot to late to reinstall it--so I have left it off on both sides--since I'm using the brake's that give up very little to no dust--thinking that I should be OK with
the idea. Would seem that they will cool quicker with out the sheilds installed.
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  #107  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:29 AM
rc5695 rc5695 is offline
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Thanks for the great info. I'll be tackling this in a couple weeks, as soon as my Billy Sport shocks come off backorder... I want to do the front and rear at the same time so I only have to pay for the alignment once.
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  #108  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:41 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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I don't think I'm going to have a problem with alignment--everything seems right on--if all that was done is with the same measurements of what was taken off--then it should be right on--drives that way and all
the rear shocks on these tourings take less than an hour to do both sides--did mine without having to take the wheels off or jack up the car.
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  #109  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:46 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Actually, even with Strut replacement, most pros recommend alignment.

You can do the Alignment yourself (see my DIY 1st page, it is included in the write-up).
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  #110  
Old 10-12-2009, 02:17 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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What about the part that I removed my brake dust sheild from the car----anyone on board with that--or is this a no no
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  #111  
Old 10-12-2009, 09:04 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
What about the part that I removed my brake dust sheild from the car----anyone on board with that--or is this a no no
Poolman,

Get some popcorn and Coca-Cola and read this:
http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...shields-60524/
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  #112  
Old 10-13-2009, 09:02 AM
rc5695 rc5695 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
I don't think I'm going to have a problem with alignment--everything seems right on--if all that was done is with the same measurements of what was taken off--then it should be right on--drives that way and all
the rear shocks on these tourings take less than an hour to do both sides--did mine without having to take the wheels off or jack up the car.
I'm not just doing shocks though. I'm doing B&G springs, all new control arms, shock mounts, and sway-bar bushings. Oh yeah, subframe bushings too...

front is getting struts, all new arms (TRW w/ Meyle, thanks Jared @ EAC), B&G springs, new rubber spring pads, new swaybar bushings & end links, strut mounts, and brake pads & rotors... Gonna be a few long nights

I would just as-soon pay for the alignment for the assurity of it being done right, as I'm also throwing on some 19's and those tires are EXPENSIVE!!!
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  #113  
Old 10-13-2009, 06:11 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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So your doing struts and not doing the rear shocks--just everything else--gotcha--I really understand----

Gotta add the hot damn factor after making a 200 mile drive through the mts today--car is like a

go cart--where ever I points it--it''ll go--got to love what these Bleistien HD suspension parts will do for the

ride your in.

CN90 -thanks for the insight on whats going on with the sheilds--thought so---just reassured what I was'a

thinking----
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  #114  
Old 10-14-2009, 08:28 AM
rc5695 rc5695 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
So your doing struts and not doing the rear shocks--just everything else--gotcha--I really understand--------
I don't think you do understand

I'm NOT JUST doing the rear shocks. I'm doing all that other stuff as well. I just have to wait for the shocks to come in so I can do it all at once.
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  #115  
Old 10-14-2009, 10:40 AM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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Speaking of struts and shocks, did anyone here scoop up on the Koni Sports special by ECS tuning @ $649 for all 4? Killer deal for externally adjustable dampers.
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  #116  
Old 10-14-2009, 01:15 PM
hockenheim hockenheim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post
Speaking of struts and shocks, did anyone here scoop up on the Koni Sports special by ECS tuning @ $649 for all 4? Killer deal for externally adjustable dampers.
I did - they should be arriving this week. I plan to do the install during October 31st / November 1st - friend who'll be helping me just reminded me that October 31st is Halloween hopefully this won't be too scary a job (Ha, I can just picture the trick-or-treaters: 'Oww, Wow, is that a REAL ghost screaming and howling in the garage?' )
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  #117  
Old 10-14-2009, 01:20 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Gotcha RC---your gonna like what all this does for the car--the front struts that were removed from mine were so easy to colapse they were useless---I could stand on the Bleistiens before they would enve begin to budge.
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  #118  
Old 10-14-2009, 01:57 PM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hockenheim View Post
I did - they should be arriving this week. I plan to do the install during October 31st / November 1st....
Are you also replacing control & thrust arms & tie rods & sway bar too, or just the struts/shock?

What setting are you going to use - soft, med, hard?
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  #119  
Old 10-15-2009, 09:25 AM
hockenheim hockenheim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHoang View Post
Are you also replacing control & thrust arms & tie rods & sway bar too, or just the struts/shock?

What setting are you going to use - soft, med, hard?
Besides the dampers I am replacing the thrust arm bushings only. The rest of the suspension is relatively tight.

I am also installing a Dinan rear sway bar.

As regards the setting, I am honestly not a believer in "firmer is better". The adjustability is only on the rebound and it will have to be tuned a bit to harmonize with the OEM Sport springs. I plan on starting with Soft and going from there. I expect it to take a little bit of time to get it "dialed in".

/alex
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  #120  
Old 10-15-2009, 09:36 AM
hockenheim hockenheim is offline
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Question for KONI users: reuse stock bump stop and dust boot

The Konis arrived from ECS Tuning as described.

Have others who have gone from stock springs to Koni Sports reused the STOCK bump stop and dust boot? I had planned on doing so and had therefore not ordered those parts.

Opinions welcomed.

/alex
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  #121  
Old 11-19-2009, 12:02 PM
Jase007 Jase007 is offline
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Cam: Nice writeup.

Glad you included that post #19 from the 9/2007 thread about springs seating position on lower perch.

Alex:

I installed my koni yellow SA sports on my touring and kept the OEM sport springs in there as well as the OEM bump-stops. You don't have to cut the bump-stops if your not reducing travel of the shock / strut. You reduce travel of the shock / strut by changing the sprung height, e.g. hacking a coil off of your existing springs or replacing with shorter "sport" springs.

*When I replaced the springs on my E30 iX with H&R Sport and Koni yellow SA sport shocks / struts ... I reduced the height of the snubber / bump-stop be the amount of advertised drop. In that install ... F was dropped 1.75" ... that is how much I removed from the OEM bump-stop.

The truth is that ground control and others make a stiffer bump-stops for lowered suspensions that are designed to work with vehicles using stiffer springs / dampers and having "less than stock" suspension travel.

Good luck.
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  #122  
Old 11-30-2009, 08:47 AM
rc5695 rc5695 is offline
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Here's the few pics I took of my overhaul on turkeyday...

Ready to start the night before:


Parts for 1 side of rear:


Parts for 1 side of front:


Rear before(not B&W, just dirty...):


Rear after:


Front before:


Front after:


New poly bushings in front:
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  #123  
Old 11-30-2009, 08:51 AM
rc5695 rc5695 is offline
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From this:


To this:



View thru front wheel:


View thru rear wheel:


The rear springs were SO shot, that the rear only dropped .25" instead of 1.25" like the front!!!

Those are Billy Sports btw, and I love them! Initial test ride down a bumpy road has me really wondering how people think they're too firm? They compliment those springs PERFECTLY. Maybe the H&R springs people are putting on their sedans are what is so stiff? This thing handles like a high-end sportscar, and rides great!
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Last edited by rc5695; 11-30-2009 at 08:55 AM.
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  #124  
Old 11-30-2009, 11:18 AM
poolman poolman is offline
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Like what you did with the touring--I'm interested in the springs for mine---I installed the heavy duty shocks and struts but kept my old springs--can you purchase the springs for the back seperatly? How are they installed--just disconnect the shocks and then raise the car and the springs are freed that way?
Thanks
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  #125  
Old 11-30-2009, 11:36 AM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poolman View Post
Like what you did with the touring--I'm interested in the springs for mine---I installed the heavy duty shocks and struts but kept my old springs--can you purchase the springs for the back seperatly? How are they installed--just disconnect the shocks and then raise the car and the springs are freed that way?
Thanks

How to remove your rear suspension
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