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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 02-25-2006, 10:59 PM
caylan caylan is offline
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Torque wrench recommendation

I need a good reliable Torque wrench with decent measurements.

Can I get some recommendations please from you DIY pros please.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 02-25-2006, 11:11 PM
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Used for what

What are you going to use the torque wrench for? Are you looking for a 3/8ths inch drive or a 1/2 inch drive? What foot/pound range are you looking for? How much do you want to spend?
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  #3  
Old 02-25-2006, 11:26 PM
caylan caylan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmillet
What are you going to use the torque wrench for? Are you looking for a 3/8ths inch drive or a 1/2 inch drive? What foot/pound range are you looking for? How much do you want to spend?

Things like oil drain plug or wheel lug nuts or even the vaunted IE bushings

I guess the bigger the range the better, so I don't have to get 2!

Best bang for the buck if possible.
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  #4  
Old 02-26-2006, 04:48 AM
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MZ.368 MZ.368 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caylan
I need a good reliable Torque wrench with decent measurements.

Can I get some recommendations please from you DIY pros please.

Thanks.
I'm a big fan of anything craftsman (sears), they have torque wrenches on sale this weekend
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  #5  
Old 02-26-2006, 05:22 AM
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Bigger range means larger error as the error is normally a percentage of the max torque or the range.

Oil pan nut needs a low range 3/8" drive. WHeels and bushings require a higher range 1/2" drive.

Suck it up and buy two.
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  #6  
Old 02-26-2006, 06:03 AM
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Randy Forbes Randy Forbes is offline
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I have a few torque wrenches, based on the vehicle I use them for; go kart needs inch-Lbs; Healey is foot-Lbs; and the ones I use for BMWs are made by Armstrong and calibrated in Nm-Meters. I don't like to do conversions, if I don't have to.

Ninety percent (90%) of what I do on BMWs is covered by the 3/8" drive 10-100 Nm-Meter version. Using my 4:1 torque multiplier, I can even do the 300 Nm-Meter axleshaft/hub nuts!

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  #7  
Old 02-26-2006, 06:57 AM
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With the type of wrench that Randy showed, make sure that you return it to zero after each use. There is a spring in there that makes it 'click'. Not returning it to zero will eventually loose it's calibration. If you are worried about calibration, there are on-line shops that do it or most engine builders will have the gizmo that check torque.

yes, buy two. One in the up to 100 ft-lbs or so range for the bigger suspension and wheel bolts and nuts and one 3/8" drive in the in-lb range for the smaller nuts and bolts.
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  #8  
Old 02-26-2006, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands
With the type of wrench that Randy showed, make sure that you return it to zero after each use. There is a spring in there that makes it 'click'. Not returning it to zero will eventually loose it's calibration. If you are worried about calibration, there are on-line shops that do it or most engine builders will have the gizmo that check torque.

yes, buy two. One in the up to 100 ft-lbs or so range for the bigger suspension and wheel bolts and nuts and one 3/8" drive in the in-lb range for the smaller nuts and bolts.
Also, NEVER continue to pull on it after it has clicked.
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  #9  
Old 02-26-2006, 08:37 AM
haiku99 haiku99 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MZ.368
I'm a big fan of anything craftsman (sears), they have torque wrenches on sale this weekend
me too, have has a click type 1/2" for years and it works well....also FWIW the 5% accuracy claim is valid (for mine at least), I built a torque wrench tester for an engineering class project and my wrench was within specs...
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  #10  
Old 02-26-2006, 10:45 AM
caylan caylan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinecone
Bigger range means larger error as the error is normally a percentage of the max torque or the range.

Oil pan nut needs a low range 3/8" drive. WHeels and bushings require a higher range 1/2" drive.

Suck it up and buy two.
That's what I wanted to hear.
Thanks all.
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  #11  
Old 02-26-2006, 04:38 PM
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The Craftsman digital torque wrenchs haver settings in both foot-pounds and newton-meters. No conversions required.
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  #12  
Old 02-26-2006, 06:32 PM
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DaveZ DaveZ is offline
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Quote:
The Craftsman digital torque wrenchs haver settings in both foot-pounds and newton-meters. No conversions required.
So do the SK torque wrenches that I bought at Coastal Tool.
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  #13  
Old 02-27-2006, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands
With the type of wrench that Randy showed, make sure that you return it to zero after each use. There is a spring in there that makes it 'click'. Not returning it to zero will eventually loose it's calibration. If you are worried about calibration, there are on-line shops that do it or most engine builders will have the gizmo that check torque.

yes, buy two. One in the up to 100 ft-lbs or so range for the bigger suspension and wheel bolts and nuts and one 3/8" drive in the in-lb range for the smaller nuts and bolts.
Also never use your torque wrench as a breaker bar.
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  #14  
Old 02-27-2006, 07:59 AM
caylan caylan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjcoston
Also never use your torque wrench as a breaker bar.

Are you saying Not even putting a pipe over it?
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2006, 12:20 PM
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rjcoston rjcoston is offline
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I was mainly referring to using one to loosen tight bolts. But I would personally also not use a pipe on a torque wrench even when torquing down a bolt. If I couldn't achieve the desired torque, I'd use a multiplier like Randy's.

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm
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  #16  
Old 02-27-2006, 02:09 PM
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I bought a Craftsman Inch/pound wrench and like it a lot. I dont have any way to judge its accuracy but it feels and looks like a quality tool.

I purchased the inch/lbs as it was most handy for bike, motorcycle and car. I just up convert for foot/lbs.
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  #17  
Old 02-27-2006, 02:10 PM
caylan caylan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjcoston
I was mainly referring to using one to loosen tight bolts. But I would personally also not use a pipe on a torque wrench even when torquing down a bolt. If I couldn't achieve the desired torque, I'd use a multiplier like Randy's.

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm

Thanks for the info.
I needed that.
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2006, 09:58 AM
FredR FredR is offline
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I have a MAC

In 1972 I bought a MAC 10-250# 1/2 drive racheting torque wrench. I used it ever since. I had it calibrated every 2 years and this cost me anywhere from $20 to $50 . Two years ago it stopped working(wouldn't click). I sent it to Mac and they replaced the head and calibrated it for $89. I lent it to someone who broke the locking collar spring and this time MAC lost it when relocating the service center. MAC acknowledged the lose and replaced it FREE OF CHARGE with a brand new 20-250# flex head racheting unit. Sometime spending the extra for a tool pays off many years later. I'm still a bit miffed at them for loosing the old wrench but they did the stand up thing 33 years later. I think that says something about a company in this day and age.
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  #19  
Old 03-01-2006, 07:17 AM
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I can't recommend the Precision Instruments stuff highly enough. It feels like precision...

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/...i_c3fr250f.jsp

MAC and Snap-on are nice, but those two have ideas about pricing I have trouble with. Armstrong is nice too, that's a brand of Danaher Corp, which also makes the Craftsman stuff for Sears. (Danaher is also an awesome stock to own, if anyone is interested.) A friend has a Facom wrench he paid a fortune for, and it seems to go out of calibration every time he looks at it cross-eyed. I picked up a bunch of Facom rachets from Griots years ago because they felt nice and seemed to work with precision (72-tooth gears), but they seem to stop working every so often, so I'd stay away from Facom anything. Funny, SK is the US arm of the same company and their stuff is very reliable. Hmmm.

Last edited by IMR; 03-01-2006 at 07:21 AM.
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  #20  
Old 03-01-2006, 11:25 PM
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I agree with the Snap-On pricing issue, and the Precision Instruments wrenches are nice. But I do really like my Snap-On TechWrench set. 1/2" 25-250 lb-ft, 3/8" 5-100 lb-ft, 1/4" 20-240 lb-in. Tool fetish.

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  #21  
Old 03-02-2006, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwm
I agree with the Snap-On pricing issue, and the Precision Instruments wrenches are nice. But I do really like my Snap-On TechWrench set. 1/2" 25-250 lb-ft, 3/8" 5-100 lb-ft, 1/4" 20-240 lb-in. Tool fetish.
Those are gorgeous! That's quite a fetish you've got there! I hope you've developed a very good business relationship with a Snap-on dealer.
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  #22  
Old 03-03-2006, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjcoston
I was mainly referring to using one to loosen tight bolts. But I would personally also not use a pipe on a torque wrench even when torquing down a bolt. If I couldn't achieve the desired torque, I'd use a multiplier like Randy's.

http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm

FYI, spotted this one .... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAC-T...QQcmdZViewItem
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  #23  
Old 09-22-2009, 06:51 PM
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car torque specs

I have been searching the forum and can't seem to find anything.

Has anyone posted a bolt torque spec quide for the Z4?

Thanks...
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  #24  
Old 09-23-2009, 01:10 PM
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Thumbs up Tis dvd

Quote:
Originally Posted by chargedZ View Post
I have been searching the forum and can't seem to find anything.
Has anyone posted a bolt torque spec quide for the Z4?
Thanks...
The TIS DVD contains all the torque specs you need. Get one here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-Z...sQ5fLiterature
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  #25  
Old 09-23-2009, 02:01 PM
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Hey Jim, thanks for the reply...that's perfect! Doesn't seem that expensive either, so good news...
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